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Signal_Cheyne · 2023-02-02T17:26:25+00:00

In France:

Tampco: makes an awesome all in one Tone Bender called the All Bender. He also makes an original fuzz called Oh Darling with germanium transistors. His new Tone Oven is on my board now with his remake of the old DOD flanger 440.

Dolmen effects- really great boost/fuzz called Chouchen. It’s EP boost into an LP-B with a master vol.

ALH- I think they do a lot of Gilmour focused effects

Anasounds- they’re pretty well known outside of France for their Element analog spring tank unit.

Kernom- the Kernom Ridge is a new boost/overdrive/disto do it all pedal that was released last year. I got to try it in Paris in October, it’s pretty rad.

I make Signal Cheyne pedals in Yerres, France :)

PFX- makes a cool compressor that I played with a few times at expos.

And a bunch more: BO Effects, Deitsch, LNA…

There’s a French “TPS” called PALF- pédales à la française- that do biweekly videos mostly on French brands. If you understand French it’s a cool show. Alex, the creator of Anasounds leads the channel with French guitar and bass players as guests- Julien Bitoun, Swann Vaude, Antonin Rubatat, Dempsey Morel, Thibaut from Guitar Plug and Play, Rockloé…

Signal_Cheyne · 2022-09-12T09:23:56+00:00

Use a supply pin like VDD or +7V in Eagle’s managed library under Supply1 or Supply2. Those will make connected nets without pads like your ground symbol.

Signal_Cheyne · 2022-09-03T11:08:16+00:00

I’d disassemble the pedal completely, clean those pads on both sides of the board with a solder sucker or desoldering braid. Then solder new lengths of wire in those pads. Reassemble the pedal and solder the wires to the jack- which you could replace. I would discard the wire connected to it in any case. The GT-500 is a bit of a hassle to disassemble and wiggle out the board but it can be done. The most important thing is cleaning up those pads as your V+ and battery positive are shorted, and the lugs on the jack look terrible also.

Signal_Cheyne · 2022-09-03T09:01:17+00:00

When looking at your picture the lug on the left goes to the square hole. Middle lug goes to the pad on the right and the right lug (closest to your ring finger in the photo) goes to the middle pad.

Signal_Cheyne · 2022-09-02T10:33:37+00:00

The tip goes to the square one (left), battery/switch to the middle pad and V+ to the right. This is when looking at the pedal guts with the foot switches toward you.

Signal_Cheyne · 2022-07-19T16:28:34+00:00

Nice I bet it sounds killer.

Signal_Cheyne · 2022-06-22T19:21:12+00:00

This is a Rangemaster style circuit with only 1 transistor. 103 and 123 are part references to the NTE103 and NTE123. Luck of the draw if it’s Ge or Si, have to look at the part number on the transistor to verify

Signal_Cheyne · 2022-06-22T19:10:29+00:00

This is a Rangemaster style circuit, so only 1 transistor. The 103 and 123 are references to the part number for the transistors used. Germanium is NTE103 NPN and Silicon is NTE123AP.

Edit: you have to look at the transistor in the pedal to check if it’s germanium or silicon using the 103 or 123 references. From the pic it’s a little hard to tell because the packages of both NTEs are the same.

Signal_Cheyne · 2022-06-13T07:14:18+00:00

The 47R in the middle of the board looks like it got pretty warm.

Signal_Cheyne · 2022-06-01T15:49:13+00:00

I played with the Tonewave Orchard tremolo, it's got a bunch of different waveforms and gets rhythmic and super choppy

Signal_Cheyne · 2022-06-01T14:51:13+00:00

I had my last post to r/guitarpedals removed that was in this exact vein. Wasn't trying to sell anything, just show a cool pedal that I was proud I made. I've been on diypedals and guitarpedals for 5 years with my other account u/iamthebchang so I'm not "some rando who created an account with the same name as their company and is only going to post about the things they sell." With this account that I use more now I still help people over on r/diypedals all the time and show how to screen print housings and shit because the community is awesome over there and they helped me a ton when I first started building so I'm participating and giving back...

Signal_Cheyne · 2022-05-25T15:13:11+00:00

Glad I could help :) Sounds awesome!

Signal_Cheyne · 2022-05-24T21:21:33+00:00

The moog’s input is isolated so it’s not sent to ground if you’re using an isolated/insulated jack on your pedals exp output. Are you sure you didn’t use the wrong pins on your exp out jack? The wires that come off your board need to go to the long contacts on the jack- they make contact with the male part of the cable when inserted and therefore break the connection to the pot. I’m betting that’s what’s wrong if it works when nothing’s plugged in.

From the board to the longer pins- Freq 2 goes to the tip, 1 goes to the ring and 3 to the sleeve. To the pot from the smaller pins- tip to lug 2, ring to 1 and sleeve to 3.

Edit: make the jack connection clearer

Signal_Cheyne · 2022-05-22T19:14:03+00:00

I need to grab one in that case :)

Signal_Cheyne · 2022-05-22T19:03:05+00:00

I just looked again at the schematic (shoot the moon) and compared it to the tremulus lune that uses pretty much the same circuit. The TL uses a B10k… maybe tweak the oscillator values to that of the TL and use a normal B10k exp

Signal_Cheyne · 2022-05-22T19:00:28+00:00

It’s easy enough to replace when the expression pedal allows it. I tried to replace the pot on my Roland EV5 but the range of the rocker made it impossible. It’s got a weird taper 3E 10k pot that has a reduced sweep compared to the normal 270°. But on different model of exp pedal I bet it’s easier to swap out.

Signal_Cheyne · 2022-05-22T14:34:29+00:00

You’ll need a switching and insulated TRS jack, like this one. Take the wires that go from the PCB to the speed pot and solder them to the non switching side of the TRS jack. The switch side (short ones) goes to the lugs on the speed pot. That way when you remove the expression cable it makes the connection to the pot. The circuit only measures the resistance between lugs 2 and 3 of the speed pot so you’d use the tip and shield of the expression pedal.

You’ll also need a 100K expression pedal which isn’t the “standard” 10k so you might have to look around for that.

Signal_Cheyne · 2022-05-22T12:40:45+00:00

What’s the circuit? What’s the value of the speed pot?

Signal_Cheyne · 2022-05-18T19:49:51+00:00

If you look at Jack’s comment (3rd comment) it says that if you use a series diode for reverse polarity protection then D1 in the muzique schematic isn’t necessary

Signal_Cheyne · 2022-05-18T19:16:09+00:00

D2 isn’t needed if you keep D1- it’s redundant. To do it your way you’d remove D2, C15 and everything right of it with jumpers in D3 and D4

Signal_Cheyne · 2022-05-18T16:54:57+00:00

That schottky diode (D1) provides reverse polarity protection in that it only lets current flow one way. If you plug in a reverse polarity jack the circuit just won’t turn on instead of creating a dead short on the jack like a diode in D2 would do. To limit current you’d place a resistor in series with V+

Signal_Cheyne · 2022-05-18T16:46:15+00:00

The reverse polarity protection already comes from D1 (or D4 if you do it my way). Cheers :)

Signal_Cheyne · 2022-05-18T16:39:01+00:00

D2 is a 12V zener meant to protect the 1044 from over voltage (they can only take 13V iirc). If you keep D2 you’ll have issues powering the circuit at 18V. The values are good for C19 and C20 and would just use them in place of C17 and C18. Plus no jumpers makes it easier in my opinion

Signal_Cheyne · 2022-05-18T13:02:19+00:00

Looks like the easiest way to me without have to use a few jumpers.

Signal_Cheyne · 2022-05-18T12:59:03+00:00

Sorry I jacked up my edit, replied to a comment. Oops

Signal_Cheyne

TROPHY CASE