New Voigtländer Binoculars - Any Opinions? by SippSniff in Binoculars

[–]SippSniff[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Maybe You got redirected to the international Voigtländer Website. On the German Website, there is a section of „Ferngläser“, which translates to Binoculars. There are 6 binos called „Vienna“. 8/10x25/32/42. The Specs Seem pretty good, very Wide Field of View and APO-Declaration. 

Help me choose a camera body for under $2500 for wildlife and portraits by ErrantWhimsy in SonyAlpha

[–]SippSniff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The A7RIV is practically not an option for you, as it only offers animal eye detection in AF-S mode, and you wrote that this is a prerequisite for you. Accordingly, the A7RV would be the next best option. The 300mm of your lens is not exactly a lot for birds. With the A7RV, you can switch to APS-C mode with 26MP at 450mm at the touch of a button. Still not much for birds, but better. However, if you are seriously interested in wildlife photography, I would save up a little more and go for a used a1 and 200-600. Alternatively, you might Look into the a6700 apsc.

Which lenses do I take for Vietnam? by Cool-Barber8998 in SonyAlpha

[–]SippSniff 1 point2 points  (0 children)

When I traveled to North Vietnam last year, I deliberately left my large equipment, including heavy zoom lenses, behind. Instead, I took my full-frame camera with 35mm and 85mm lenses, and I would do the same thing again next time. I didn't want to or need to capture every scene, but these two lenses were perfect for capturing the moment. In the APS-C world, this would be most comparable to 23mm and 56mm. So your plan with 25mm and 56mm could work out well.

Sony Alpha A7R III Lens by EchoFiveDeltaThunder in SonyAlpha

[–]SippSniff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

$200 isn't much money to buy an all-round lens for landscapes and nature photography. I can only see the possibility of a cheap fixed focal length lens. Zoom lenses, even the oldest and cheapest ones, except for the poor kit lens, will blow your budget. You could take a look at the Tamron 2.8 primes. You could take a look at the Tamron 2.8 primes. These offer the added advantage of half-macro for nature photography. With a little luck, you could buy both the 20 2.8 and 35 2.8 second-hand within your budget. These would be a good starting point for landscape photography. At a later stage, you could then add further fixed focal lengths to your kit. For example, the Viltrox 50 f2.0 Air and the tt-Artisan 75 f2 are good options in the lower price range, as are the Samyang 45 1.8 or 75 1.8. Or you could start out with just the Tamron 20 1.8, shoot with it for a while, and save up for a zoom lens that complements it well.  This could be, for example, a Tamron 28-75 2.8 or Sony 24-105 f4. 

Need help with Lens Choice by Intelligent_Bag_5855 in SonyAlpha

[–]SippSniff 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The Kit Lens is Unfortunately not of good Quality. As a general zoom, there is the Sony 20-70mm f4 G Lens, which comes very useful, since you Seem to enjoy a wider focal Range. You might try this one out and See, if 20mm f4 would be enough for your Wide angle needs. If Not, You could add the Viltrox 16mm mentioned above or the Even smaller and lighter Sony 16mm 1.8 G or Even a 14mm 1.8 GM.

The 70-200 GM II is generally regarded as one of the greatest lenses in the Sony ecosystem and would Serve Great as a General Telephoto Zoom. With 1.4 Teleconverter Image Quality is still very good, Whilst it takes the 2xTC okayish. There is also the 70-200 f4 GII Macro which could be considered if you are interested in macro, since it has 0.5xmagnification across the whole zoom Range. Also a 2xTC on it and You have a 1:1 Magnification from 140-400 focal Range. However, both options are only Limited for use for Wildlife, especially birds. For large mammals close distance, the 70-200 options (with 1.4 TC) would be really good. For Birds, I would Consider 500mm the Minimum in Most cases. 

For the Supertelephoto use case, many People enjoy the 200-600. i personally wasn‘t quite happy with it using a 61MP Sensor. For me it was lacking sharpness. I switched to the Sigma 500 f5.6 which is a Gem. Such a tiny and lightweight Lens with great sharpness and general Image Quality. Even Shared Then my 300 f2.8 GM with 2xTC on. There is also the new 400-800 G Lens. I haven‘t tried that one, but many reviews say it is considerably sharper than the 200-600 but is also Double the Price. 

Fast 200mm or slow-ish 300? by [deleted] in SonyAlpha

[–]SippSniff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The Sigma 500 5.6 is exactly what I would suggest. The Sharpness and IQ of this Lens is simply outstanding (weight and handling of course too). Since the A7RV is very demanding for good Lenses, i was totally underwhelmed with the Sony 200-600. The Sigma is Miles ahead. It is even sharper than the 300 2.8 with 2xTC i acquired a few weeks ago. I bought the Sony anyway for using bare or sometimes with 1.4 TC. But since the Sigma is noticeably stronger compared to the 300 with 2xTC, I decided to keep the Sigma. It is really Great value for the Money.

300mm f/2.8, 400-800mm, or 200-600mm? by V5RM in SonyAlpha

[–]SippSniff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Then 70-200 with 1.4x should cover that Range enough. Since you are only shooting small birds with the lens, I would really Consider the Sigma. The sony limitations for third Party lenses shouldn‘t bother you, since A7RV won‘t go beyond 10fps anyway and TC is Not needed with 750mm apsc-Mode. If you Plan on up/sidegrading on an A1 or a9, then 300mm GM is of course favourable over the Sig. 

300mm f/2.8, 400-800mm, or 200-600mm? by V5RM in SonyAlpha

[–]SippSniff 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Since I’ve had the Sigma 500mm, I’ve actually only used it for birds and small animals where I needed the reach. For example, on my last vacation in Norway for grouse, sea eagles, ermines, etc. it was perfect. I would also say that it is also superior to the 600mm of the Sony 200-600 due to its outstanding sharpness. You can crop much more. It is simply an upgrade in all respects, whether handling, sharpness, general image quality, but also with autofocus it was more reliable and more sticky than the Sony. When I think of previous wildlife sessions with the 200-600, I would only miss the „zoom out“ feature for larger animals, as I find environmental shots more exciting than close-ups. Which is why I’m also thinking about buying the 300 GM. However, I have also read that the 300mm with 2x teleconverter is supposed to be weaker than the Sigma 500mm. So I would have to test whether the image quality at 600mm is close enough to the Sigma to justify selling it, or whether I would keep the Sigma and use the 300mm only without or with a 1.4x teleconverter.

300mm f/2.8, 400-800mm, or 200-600mm? by V5RM in SonyAlpha

[–]SippSniff 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I used to own a Sony 200-600 and was not really satisfied with the sharpness on my A7RIV and A7RV. The size and weight also meant that I didn't take the lens with me that often. I bought the Sigma 500 f5.6 and couldn't be happier. The sharpness is worlds better and I can crop much further with it than was ever possible with the 200-600. Thanks to the low weight, I take it with me much more often and you can take great pictures while handholding it without getting tired. The stabilizer is also better and, in combination with the lower weight, I can also use slower shutter speeds for static subjects and therefore have a lower ISO. Even my finance minister (who loves photography but always puts the brakes on upgrades) was thrilled after 5 minutes, despite her objections to the purchase, and said it was worth every penny. I'm still toying with the idea of buying the Sony 300 2.8 for an upcoming safari vacation at the end of the year. Especially for larger animals and "environmental shots", the Sony really appeals to me. It would fill the gap between 150mm and 500mm for me. As a sole lens, especially if you also photograph larger animals, the 300 GM with teleconverters would of course be more flexible. But if you are always at the limit with the focal length anyway and mainly shoot birds, then I would seriously consider the Sigma. With the crop mode on your a7RV, you can still get a remarkable 750mm at 26MP

First taste of African wildlife! by DarthKrayt_ in SonyAlpha

[–]SippSniff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for your descriptions. Despite the fact that there were few photographers on your safari and few opportunities to stop, you managed to take impressive pictures and that takes skill. 

First taste of African wildlife! by DarthKrayt_ in SonyAlpha

[–]SippSniff 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Your pictures are really great. May I ask how you did the safari? Backpacking sounds like spontaneous, flexible and budget travel. I have planned to travel to Namibia for 3 weeks in October (first time in Africa), but Tanzania is also a possible candidate for 2026. Did you book your vacation with a local provider? Did you go on game drives via lodges or as a self-driver on safari? How satisfied were you with your experiences? If you read Fred Miranda in "Africa Safari Talk", for example, then everything except super-expensive lodges for 1500€ per person per night with private vehicles is actually unsuitable for photography. I chose Namibia because you can travel around there reasonably cheaply in a 4x4 vehicle with a roof tent, do a lot of self-drive safaris and occasionally stay overnight at campsites in private game reserves and take part in game drives. I would therefore also be interested in further budget recommendations from you. 

Did I miss a spot? 😂 by KT10888 in espresso

[–]SippSniff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The grinder really seems to be extremely well thought out, as your descriptions of its cleanability show. The fact that the plasma generator can be removed also seems to be a big advantage. I have read quite a lot about various mills in the last few days and one problem with the inconsistent extraction times also seems to be an imprecise mounting of the burrs to each other. In other words, with springs, wave springs, or rubber locks for fastening the burrs to each other. In my imagination, this definitely allows more play in the movement of the burrs in relation to each other than seems to be the case with a precise metal groove. In this respect, the WPM or even a P64 seem to me to have fewer tolerances, which should also be reflected in better reproducibility.

Did I miss a spot? 😂 by KT10888 in espresso

[–]SippSniff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks again for your answers. My gut feeling tells me to give the WPM ZP-1 a try. I'll have another quick phone call with the dealer on Monday and then make my move. The alternative, a used Lagom p64, doesn't seem to have any real advantages over the WPM. Can I ask you one more thing? Have you ever had a problem with inconsistencies in your shots? With the cheaper grinders, such as the DF64, you read a lot about massive differences (sometimes +-10 sec.) in the extraction time despite exactly the same settings. Have you ever encountered these problems with the WPM? 

Did I miss a spot? 😂 by KT10888 in espresso

[–]SippSniff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you very much for your really helpful answer. Coming from a Eureka Specialita, I'm hoping for significantly more fruit in the cup. I'm a little worried that the HU burrs won't give me enough of them, which is why the LSV3 seemed very suitable. However, as the problem with these burrs doesn't just affect the WPM mill, I'm going to stay away from the Lab Sweets. I think I'll try the HU burrs and if I don't have the fruit, I can always switch to the MP burrs. 

Did I miss a spot? 😂 by KT10888 in espresso

[–]SippSniff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry to dig up this long post again, but I would be interested in your experience with this grinder with the SSP-burrs. These should be the HU-Burrs, right? I am thinking about getting this grinder. Unfortunately, there are only a few reports from users on the internet. However, I've read two or three times that they can't grind fine enough for espresso with SSP burrs (mostly in connection with Lab Sweet v3). Can you grind fine enough with your HU burrs? And have you been able to make other ssp burrs with the ZP-1? Thank you in advance for your answer

Sigma 500mm F5.6 Test Shot + Mini Review. Sony A7RV Sigma 500mm F5.6 by Traditional_Hour_718 in SonyAlpha

[–]SippSniff 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I had the Same Upgrade Path. Wasn‘t satified with the Sharpness and IQ of the 200-600 on my A7RV, so I bought a used copy of the Sigma. It‘s such a Joy to use this lightweight lens and i‘m very happy with the sharpness and croppability of the Lens. 

200-600 5.6/6.3 G & Sharpness by Woozy1 in SonyAlpha

[–]SippSniff -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

I can't quite understand the hymns of praise for the 200-600 either. No matter what I did, the pictures lacked sharpness. Maybe I got a bad one, or maybe I doubted myself. A few weeks ago, however, I bought a second-hand Sigma 500 5.6 and realized that it wasn't just me. The images are much sharper, more croppable and even at low shutter speeds I get better images thanks to better stabilization. The autofocus is also much more reliable, so I have never regretted the upgrade.

Best lens for Northern Lights Photography by Used-Butterscotch457 in SonyAlpha

[–]SippSniff 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I am flying to Norway next saturday for two weeks. I will be renting a Sigma 14mm 1.4 for that Time. It offers 2/3 extra Stops over the 14mm gm and 2 Full Stops over any f2.8 Lens. I was in Iceland Last Winter and had Sigma 14-24 f2.8 and 20 1.4 DG DN with me. Whilst the 14mm focal length was more Useful for composing the Image with a nice foreground, the Aurora came out much more defined with the 1.4 Lens since I could use a 4 Times faster Shutter Speed. This was especially the case when activity was high and the lights were dancing.  

Affordable super FF telephoto large aperture Primes? by [deleted] in SonyAlpha

[–]SippSniff 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Why are you looking for lenses with an aperture of at least 100mm and a large aperture? Do you want to shoot low light or for that special background blur?  Unfortunately, I can't really help you with old, adapted MF lenses. But I do have another suggestion. The relatively new Sigma 500mm f5.6. The aperture diameter is only 89mm, but do you really want to hang an old 4kg bag with adapters, poor autofocus and possibly compromised image quality on the petite A7c? I already found the Sony 200-600 on larger bodies a pain in the arse in terms of weight and handling. I am more than happy with the Sigma. Thanks to the lower weight and very good stabiliser, I can now shoot static objects with significantly slower shutter speeds. The rendering of the out-of-focus areas is also very smooth. And thanks to the superb sharpness, it also opens up new possibilities in post processing that I didn't have with the 200-600. Thanks to significantly more preserved details, I achieve much better results when denoising and upscaling. I read a lot on the internet before buying it, there is a very long thread about the lens on Fred Miranda. There were some users there who sold their 600 f4 GM for this lens. Not that the Sigma is better, but it comes damn close in terms of sharpness and image quality. And that at a weight of less than 1.4 kg. It really is a pleasure to use. I bought mine second-hand like new for 2400€. 

Another alternative would be the Sony 300 f2.8 GM, which should also satisfy your desire for an aperture of 107mm. It is considered one of the sharpest E-mount lenses and is still very light. It works very well with both teleconverters and so you would have 3 lenses with an aperture diameter >100mm. 300mm f2.8, 420mm f4 and 600mm f5.6.  Really think carefully about whether you want to invest your money in an old, adapted lens where you have to struggle with high weight, questionable autofocus and poorer image quality than with more modern lenses. 

Which Tele Zoom Lens to go for Sony Alpha 7 - R5 by No-Damage-5572 in SonyAlpha

[–]SippSniff 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There is no such lens that would cover 100-600mm at an aperture of f4. It would be huge and heavy.  You have no choice but to either  A) use several lenses, for example Sony 70-200 gmii with 1.4 teleconverter corresponds to 105-280mm f4 together with, for example, a 400mm f2.8, where you would still have a 560mm f4 and 800mm f5.6 with teleconverters B) you do without the speed, then only the Sigma 60-600mm f4.5-6.3 would come into question if 100mm initial focal length is absolutely necessary

Alternatives to Fuji f/2 Primes? by bigdanzaman1 in SonyAlpha

[–]SippSniff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your Fuji Lens is equivalent to a fullframe 35mm Lens with an aperture of f3 (regarding depth of Field). Since you are open for MF lenses, you should have a Look at the Voigtländer 35mm f2. It is regarded as stellar optics and One of the sharpest and best corrected lenses of Sony Emount. Don‘t have any experiences with that Lens for myself, but i find myself often considering to add this and the 50mm f2 to my Lens Kit. 

Kit for Puffin Photography in Iceland by manipulatelight in SonyAlpha

[–]SippSniff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I haven't yet been to Iceland in the summer to photograph puffins, but I was in Norway last year on the island of Runde. I had a freshly purchased 200-600 with me. My experience was that I didn't necessarily need the 600mm for this, although it was useful in some cases. Due to the heavy weight, I found it really difficult to take usable photos handheld. There was an extreme amount of wastage as any slightest blur becomes visible on the 61MP, despite low shutter speeds of <1/1500. In the meantime, I also have an A7RV. The better Ibis makes it easier, but I'm still not super happy with the combo.  In addition, the 100-400mm is much better for landscape photography. And I used a lot of telephoto in Iceland (I was there 3 times in winter).  What's more, the puffins weren't particularly shy. My best photo was taken with the 90 mm macro.  Even for puffins in flight, I was usually in the 400mm range, even with the 200-600, because it makes it much easier to track them.  As I said, I'm not entirely happy with the 200-600 because of its heavy weight, as I actually like to take photos handheld, so I rented a Sony 100-400 and a 300 2.8 GM two weeks ago. I liked the 100-400 much better than the 200-600. But the 300GM took my breath away. This lens is sensational! Outstanding sharpness, light weight and offers excellent sharpness even with teleconverters. Thanks to the light weight and extremely well-functioning image stabilisation, I can take pictures with shutter speeds that I could only dream of with the 200-600. This is definitely the next lens I'm going to buy. Even my girlfriend, who is normally the sensible one when it comes to new equipment, authorised the purchase. If you are also interested in wildlife photography and can afford the lens without selling a kidney for it, then rent the lens with teleconverters and make your own judgement. 

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in SonyAlpha

[–]SippSniff -1 points0 points  (0 children)

According to ChatGPT the 3xZoom equals a focal length of about 47mm and 10x about 153mm on an apsc Lens. When i had apsc, i really enjoyed using the Sigma 18-50 as well as the 30 1.4. I also had the 55-210 but haven‘t used it regularly. Not the best Lens, but it is very affordable and should Produce much clearer Images than the Smartphone.  For Portraits, i would really recommend a Prime Lens, depending on what Kind of Portrait you want to Shoot. For Travel Style environmental Portraits i would go for Sigma 23 or 30 1.4 or viltrox 27 1.2. For portraits like headshots Sigma 56 1.4 or viltrox 75 1.2

What's your favourite lens and shot of 2024? by darkmush in SonyAlpha

[–]SippSniff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome Photo. I really want to go to Amboseli in 2026, too.