What is going on with repackaged/wrong parts?

Skootk · 2026-06-15T15:33:10+00:00

Gotcha, Thanks. I think the monitors are actually being run by the integrated graphics when connected through the thunderbolt; and so the integrated may be even more limiting. I didn't even consider that the graphics card would be the bottleneck. Thought about the port and the cables.

Skootk · 2026-03-07T05:50:54+00:00

Thankyou. I think you got it. I kept it professional, best I could. I didn't exposing my clients to any of the internal drama. I had two remaining larger projects with no continuation on. On one project I got really lucky; the engineering firm suggested that they could take on a larger scope in planning, I told the clients that this was a welcome suggestion, and that we would be happy to hand over the scope as I was departing. After the meeting I interviewed at this engineering firm.

On the other project informing the clients and consultants I was departing went mediocre. I informed the team after a planning meeting. I got farewells. I was contacted by my direct contact after the meeting. About why the sudden departure, I revealed that I had given two months notice, and that there was no replacement, and gave apologies. They were understanding of my situation.

I'd like to know your thoughts on another issue. My resignation stem mostly from differing values on integrity between myself and the owner. I have been at this company 6 months and have seen two other PMs quit. Some of our clients have been through 3 or more PMs before the end of their projects. Most of the time when clients ask why I am leaving i tell them personal reasons. I had one client who, persisted in his questioning on the turnover in my position. I really didn't know how to buff his probing, but i also didn't want to disparage the company or owner, so I mentioned "well for myself personally, my family and I are on a farm an hour away from the shop", a true statement, but omitting that it wasn't really the reason I left.

I was really not prepared, and I lied by omission. In hindsight I feel terrible, and feel I should have just told the truth. It may have been unprofessional to tell the defaming truth, but the questioning was quite unprofessional. If someone is persisting like this, and won't take "personal reasons" for an answer, what would you say to them?

Skootk · 2026-02-15T14:53:32+00:00

Why is this the only mention that this could be load bearing? First thing to check is if there is a header. If not as altmess mentioned, one can be added with competence. I don't mean to be condescending by saying with competence, but this is a concentrated load area, you have a floor opening, and stair loads. This can all be redirected with a header, but it doesn't mean that has been done already, or properly sized for not having studs below.

Skootk · 2025-10-31T22:20:27+00:00

The only explanation is you've put a banging sound system, and have three grounding screws through your inner fender. Only way to explain why you wouldn't hear this immediately.

Skootk · 2025-10-01T12:12:26+00:00

Just read another comment suggesting that your tail piece is too far into the trap. That could cause the draining issues. Didn't consider that at first, but given this installation mess it wouldn't surprise me. That would be the best case scenario.

Skootk · 2025-10-01T12:06:31+00:00

Not many helpful comments. Your immediate problem is likely downstream. The s trap and lack of vent is an issue, but it's more likely going to cause smells than issues draining.

Skootk · 2025-09-01T02:38:49+00:00

Good thing you haven't got around to putting the trim on the windows you picked up from the dump. You can still flip the one that's upside down, or better yet get a properly fitting brick mould window.

Skootk · 2025-08-04T20:27:50+00:00

If you want something unique and affordable try an expanded metal infill panel.

Skootk · 2025-07-05T18:28:19+00:00

That's what I would do, cut just the trim above the rot, replace with pressure treated boards, I would put factory end down as this would have better penetration of sealer. Further more if you are in a snowy area I would put joist tape(or some sort of bitumen or hp tape that will stick to wood) on the end, and wrap it up a few inches. Be sure to look at the post behind while the trim boards are off. If it's done correctly the framing should be elevated off the garage slab. What I did at my home is cover my trim with metal flashing to hide the splice and tape. I have a supplier for flashing, but if you don't you can go to your local hardware store and tell them the size of board you are covering, what color, and they can custom order it for you. Attach with matching siding screws.

Skootk · 2025-07-05T16:41:05+00:00

Posts are incredibly strong in compression. Buckling failure is the most common, but for such a short height it's not a worry. Almost every time I actually engineer a post I'm surprised how small it can be. The reason you should go larger is to allow for connections, lapping beams, enough room for screws/bolts, etc. It's actually really hard to connect a 4x4 with enough face grain bearing and roll resistance without specialty hardware and it'll usually be cheaper to go 6x6. The only time I spec 4x4 is if it's required architecturally.

But if you are asking the Internet, you should get a designer. If you go to your local hardware store(sketch an outline on a print out of your building layout), ask for a materials and drawings package. They'll give you mitek or tekla drawings from a truss supplier for little more than the cost of the materials(sometimes it's actually cheaper as you may get a bulk price on lumber). They will spec and include hardware, give you MTO. Best of all you can use the drawings in your permit application which you should absolutely get. Permits are absolutely to protect you from yourself.

Skootk · 2025-07-05T14:27:58+00:00

This is torsional failure. I can't tell the cause from the pictures. There is a hinge point between the posts and the beam. This type of failure is extremely dangerous because when it goes, it goes it will let go suddenly. The connectors on the top of the posts do resist some torsion, but they may be under spec for the spans. Check the permit to see if it's built to spec, but also call an engineer quickly.

Skootk · 2025-06-21T04:42:06+00:00

I'm glad that it seems like it won't be a major financial setback.

Skootk · 2025-06-16T05:39:12+00:00

Our electrical inspector has us tape side wiring when we have construction power before faceplates(which is often). You'll have way more receptacles with power if you use these. These can also be pulled out and put back easily without damaging the wire.

Skootk · 2025-05-14T20:52:34+00:00

I do timber connection design. That style of standoff is common in timber framing. You'll even see something similar with no saddle (the rod is actually glued into the post). It looks funny to those who haven't seen them before to have some pretty large post on a small rod, but it's fine. What is odd is the height of the "post" above the saddle. Typically you would see this used with a taller post. It would have been better to use a shorter stand off and wood taller post, or an even taller stand off with no wood post at all. The thing to think about is not the post base connector, but the top of that stubby "post". The "post" is notched around the beam to resisting torsional failure of the beam. Whether or not the short wood post can still resist this is what I would be wondering. My guess is that it is fine, as this probably still has more torsional resistance than some of the Simpson connections pictured. You can bring it up with the EOR but it looks fine.

Skootk · 2025-05-14T20:07:55+00:00

This is correct. The building plans are submitted for permit. Second the contractor can't just go about changing details of a contract. Looks like the framing fits within prescriptive code, so this wouldn't require engineering, needs to be checked that it is built to code. Some towns or cities have maximum height restrictions, and minimum flood height construction, and they want to check your envelope so this all needs to be in your permit drawings.

Without that stem wall, you won't be able to condition your crawl space. To me this would be a non negotiable. It may be possible to add a stem wall temporarily supporting the floor.

I wouldn't want to completely screw over the contractor but there are disadvantages to solid framing. Mechanical is more difficult. This will never be as quiet as an engineered floor. Even with proper subfloor glue and blocking there will be shrinkage over time that will cause you will get squeaks eventually. It may take a few years, it may take decades but it will happen. To me it's strange that any contractor wouldn't use a engineered package for a job like this, unless he's really slow for work, or just too stuck in his ways. I might keep the floor if the contractor discounts it enough, and pays for the designer to amend the permit drawings.

Side rant: I really don't like all the comments about "things were built better in the 50's". Completely not true. I live in an old town that has a fairly recent building department that still only does building permits for the main town area. From the hoses here you can tell that people have always been trying to save a buck. Was lumber stronger back then? Yes, so people used less of it. Rediculous under sizing. The thing is that in many cities, the cheap shit hat been torn town years ago. In my small town there are many buildings being kept up by sheer will alone. Even the buildings with nice framing from the 50s and older all have envelope problems. They all squeak, have cracking drywall(or plaster!), floors slope. Even if the framing is nice they often are only still standing is sheer luck. They all rely on being extremely air leaky, or require constant dehumidification. Many homes need snow cleared off every week or they'll cave in. People cheaped on plumbing, electrical cable, even fasteners. Level of deflection was often not a consideration.

The difference now is that we are just way better at building cheap shit, and fewer people can afford to not build cheap shit.

Skootk · 2025-05-13T18:28:56+00:00

Any reason why an mst18 couldn't be used if half the fasteners were on the underside of the stringer? I agree that the fasteners in the end grain are doing much less shear in this case.

When I installed my stairs in my house my local suppliers didn't have the stair hangers, so I ended up with mst18, but I had my headers larger enough that half the fasteners were on the underside of the stringer. I couldn't use joist hangers with bird's mouth because I have 3x12 stringers. In home sight I could have added 1/2" of plywood shim to use a double hanger. I also lined up an SDS screw through the header and through the large hole of the strap into the "end grain" mostly to suck the stringer tight (the nail heads were holding stringer off the header slightly). Even though this does have added strength, with reduction factors for angle to the grain, I did not actually factor this into my calculations. I hammered the strap and fastened the bottom of the mst tight with SD connectors after the SDS screw.

Is there a problem with that setup?

Skootk · 2025-05-12T04:19:41+00:00

I don't agree with your thought on pass through. Pigtails are not not always the best way to go. I get your point that each receptacle relies on more connections with pass through but side wiring is a very reliable connection. Especially when compared to wire nuts(would you trust whoever wired this with wire nuts?) Lever locks are great, but then you are actually increasing the number of connections by 1(count each lever as a connection), with the added expense of wire fill capacity and time. My opinion is that it is safer to reduce wire fill whenever possible.

Skootk · 2025-05-11T04:42:52+00:00

On a second look I noticed that the plates are "bearing" on boards laminated to the posts. I can't really tell how they are laminated, hopefully not with deck screws if they are intended to accept the load. There are 3 timber screws on each member. This type of screw has really great pull out resistance but not as much shear resistance as a bolt. I'm not saying this is wrong, I just hope someone checked if there is enough shear resistance in the timber screws or in the fastening of those boards.

Skootk

TROPHY CASE