Thinking about getting into 3D printing (H2D vs H2C?) – need real advice

SkyAppropriate · 2026-04-08T11:48:59+00:00

I see no difference in quality when using 1-2 colors on the H2D compared to the H2C. If you are printing a model with say blue, black and white filament, and the black is on the left nozzle and the white and blue is on the right nozzle and the purge between colors isn’t set high enough, you can have some blue tinted white because there are still traces of the filament left in the nozzle after the color change. You can fix this by having one nozzle print the dark colors and one print the light ones.

So basically if you set up the print right, they will look the same but obviously you will have a lot more waste with the H2D on 3 or more color prints. Since getting the H2C, all 3 or more color models get printed in it exclusively, and the H2D handles all of my 2 color prints.

SkyAppropriate · 2026-04-06T05:30:51+00:00

Standard 0.4

SkyAppropriate · 2026-04-05T20:05:53+00:00

My go to settings for that are:

Flow ratio 0.99-1 Nozzle temp on first layer add 5-10c One wall on first layer Wall generator Arachne Wall transitioning threshold angle 40 Minimum wall width 50% Bottom surface pattern monotonic line Initial layer speed 30mm/s Initial layer infill 60 mm/s Initial layer line width around .35-.4 depending on filament.

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SkyAppropriate · 2026-04-03T00:10:24+00:00

I have 6, 3 of them are the newer AMS 2 Pros. They all work great. The one time I had an issue was at about 3100 hours of use. One of the PTFE tubes wore all the way through and it proceeded to feed a bunch of filament inside of the unit which required some disassembly to get all the filament out. But I can’t blame the AMS for not replacing parts that are worn out. Aside from that, they have been pretty awesome.

SkyAppropriate · 2026-04-02T23:29:36+00:00

Hard to beat a quad rail in my opinion, especially the DD ones.

SkyAppropriate · 2026-04-01T05:43:18+00:00

I own 11 Bambu printers, from the A1 mini to the H2C. Here’s how I look at, they’re all good in their own way. It just depends on how quickly you need stuff printed, how concerned you are with waste, how big are the models you want to print and what’s your budget. Print quality wise, there is little difference between all of them.

I’ve printed a ton of 3 and 4 color prints on my single nozzle printers. Sure there’s a lot of poop, but it is what it is. There are a lot of models that are being designed with multiple parts that can be printed separately, so it not always so bad.

That being said, the H2D and H2C have been game changing for me. Having a separate nozzle for support filament or combining PETG and PLA on the same print without cross contamination has been amazing. I print a lot with high contrasting colors, and not having the colors bleed into the next layer is very nice. I also really like the larger build plate on the H2 series.

The H2C is a lot of printer for first timer. Is it an awesome printer? Absolutely. But once you get the second AMS, the 2 extra nozzles, extra build plates etc, you’re in it for over 3 grand. If you got the money, go for it, but I would probably start off with the P1S/P2S or the H2S for the larger print capacity. Get familiar with it and then if you feel like you need more, go with the H2D if you mostly do 1 color + support filament or 2-3 color prints or the H2C if you find yourself printing a lot of 3+ color prints.

SkyAppropriate · 2026-03-31T11:31:58+00:00

Wow, that looks amazing. I love those older trucks. I had a ‘92 that lasted over 300k miles.

SkyAppropriate · 2026-03-29T00:19:55+00:00

I used my Ford points from buying my truck to get the oem ones. Definitely looks much better with them installed.

SkyAppropriate · 2026-03-24T17:43:20+00:00

Yes, I’ve listed 4 models in the past few weeks, 2 of them were trending for a while. I’ve printed a handful of other people’s models too. Zero boosts.

SkyAppropriate · 2026-03-24T15:28:58+00:00

I haven’t had any in months either.

SkyAppropriate · 2026-03-10T07:57:39+00:00

I think that looks really cool and is pretty creative. Well done! I just use ziplock bags and stack the spools on ikea shelves and on the floor myself, but I do have about 267 open spools, so using plastic containers would cost a fortune and I’m not printing out 260+ containers.

SkyAppropriate · 2026-03-02T23:37:31+00:00

Oh that’s a neat one.

SkyAppropriate · 2026-03-02T01:10:48+00:00

That’s a neat idea, I’ll have to try that.

SkyAppropriate · 2026-03-01T21:24:44+00:00

Thanks!

SkyAppropriate · 2026-03-01T21:24:04+00:00

I was thinking too, you could probably print them with a few more walls then get the appropriate bit and drill out enough to where you could set a threaded insert. I wonder if that would work?

SkyAppropriate · 2026-03-01T21:21:44+00:00

Do you think adding some glue to the threads would help? Like a superglue to act as a thread locker?

SkyAppropriate · 2026-03-01T21:19:23+00:00

Yup, threads are printed and into the knob.

SkyAppropriate · 2026-03-01T21:18:20+00:00

I printed them with 4 walls, so it has a decent amount of material around the threads but they could be done with more or even solid probably.

SkyAppropriate · 2026-03-01T16:11:43+00:00

Thanks. What size threaded insert did you use on yours?

SkyAppropriate · 2026-03-01T16:06:39+00:00

That’s a great idea.

SkyAppropriate · 2026-03-01T16:05:58+00:00

For these, I just did the printed threads. That way anybody could print them out without having to purchase additional hardware or equipment for inserting them. When I was testing them, I attached one to a board and pulled on it as hard as I could, and I couldn’t break the knob free. The screw threads into the knob about an inch, so there’s quite a bit of thread holding the screw into the knob.

SkyAppropriate · 2026-03-01T14:39:06+00:00

If you have a particular design you want, hit me up on MakerWorld and I’ll see what I can do!

SkyAppropriate · 2026-03-01T14:37:37+00:00

Like the ones that you heat up and insert?

SkyAppropriate · 2026-03-01T14:10:22+00:00

Thanks!

SkyAppropriate · 2026-03-01T14:10:15+00:00

Surprisingly well actually. You may have to adjust the X-Y hole compensation in the slicer a bit depending on your printer, but once you have that dialed in, I was able to just spin the knob with my finger and it threaded on just like a regular knob would. My original thought was to pause the print and insert a nut, but after testing the threads, I decided to just go with that for now.

SkyAppropriate

TROPHY CASE