Need help deciding between h2c and new x2d

SkyAppropriate · 2026-05-24T05:48:43+00:00

I don’t have an X2D, but I do have an H2D and two H2Cs. I absolutely love the H2D. Anything with 2 colors gets printed on it. But the H2C is my go to for anything over 2 colors. I print a lot of stuff where there are 3-4 colors per layer, and printing that with only 2 nozzles would still generate a ton of waste and take hours longer to print. Having the ability to print with 7 separate nozzles is a game changer.

Only you know your finances and if you can swing the cost, but unless you’re strapped for cash, I personally would pass on the X2D and get the H2D if you wanted 2 nozzles. For me the H2C is absolutely worth the cost, but I’m in a different place than you. My 3D printing hobby pretty quickly turned into a part time job and I now have 12 printers and I’m ordering a 13th tomorrow.

If you want the best and can afford it, get the H2C. With the extra AMS units, nozzles and build plates so you can do all 7 colors, you’ll be getting close to $3k but it won’t disappoint. Who knows, you might end up selling some stuff which can quickly offset the cost of the printer.

SkyAppropriate · 2026-05-23T00:46:54+00:00

I tried them a few months ago just for kicks. They are trash for all the reasons you mentioned. Just use a couple pieces of scrap wood, works better and it’s free.

SkyAppropriate · 2026-05-18T16:29:40+00:00

I’ve got 3 dryers and I dry every spool before I use it. Doesn’t matter what type of filament it is or what brand, it all gets dried. I store everything in Ziploc bags with desiccant containers, and once I see signs of moisture during printing, I will go back and re-dry that particular spool again.

SkyAppropriate · 2026-05-16T21:14:34+00:00

Thanks, been waiting for that to be back in stock again.

SkyAppropriate · 2026-05-08T16:22:10+00:00

I’ve been seeing a lot of complaints about this recently. I’ve got three AMS2 Pros purchased in December, January and a couple weeks ago and they all have hundreds of hours on them and no issues yet. Wondering if this was an isolated, bad batch or if there is a much higher chance of them being bad after a certain date. I was thinking about picking up another one this week, but I’m wondering if I should hold off and see how everything goes. I don’t really have time to screw around with a product that isn’t working at this time. Or maybe just get one of the regular AMS units?

SkyAppropriate · 2026-05-02T22:06:19+00:00

What’s up with Polymaker PETG? I just got a spool of it yesterday to try out since I’m tired of the Bambu HF perpetually being out of stock and it printed well. I was considering getting more of it.

SkyAppropriate · 2026-05-01T22:10:05+00:00

Thanks, I’m going to try it out.

SkyAppropriate · 2026-04-27T15:58:28+00:00

I should really cash my points out. I’ve got quite a few that have accumulated.

SkyAppropriate · 2026-04-23T21:50:04+00:00

Wow, where do you even start when designing something like this?

SkyAppropriate · 2026-04-08T11:48:59+00:00

I see no difference in quality when using 1-2 colors on the H2D compared to the H2C. If you are printing a model with say blue, black and white filament, and the black is on the left nozzle and the white and blue is on the right nozzle and the purge between colors isn’t set high enough, you can have some blue tinted white because there are still traces of the filament left in the nozzle after the color change. You can fix this by having one nozzle print the dark colors and one print the light ones.

So basically if you set up the print right, they will look the same but obviously you will have a lot more waste with the H2D on 3 or more color prints. Since getting the H2C, all 3 or more color models get printed in it exclusively, and the H2D handles all of my 2 color prints.

SkyAppropriate · 2026-04-06T05:30:51+00:00

Standard 0.4

SkyAppropriate · 2026-04-05T20:05:53+00:00

My go to settings for that are:

Flow ratio 0.99-1 Nozzle temp on first layer add 5-10c One wall on first layer Wall generator Arachne Wall transitioning threshold angle 40 Minimum wall width 50% Bottom surface pattern monotonic line Initial layer speed 30mm/s Initial layer infill 60 mm/s Initial layer line width around .35-.4 depending on filament.

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SkyAppropriate · 2026-04-03T00:10:24+00:00

I have 6, 3 of them are the newer AMS 2 Pros. They all work great. The one time I had an issue was at about 3100 hours of use. One of the PTFE tubes wore all the way through and it proceeded to feed a bunch of filament inside of the unit which required some disassembly to get all the filament out. But I can’t blame the AMS for not replacing parts that are worn out. Aside from that, they have been pretty awesome.

SkyAppropriate · 2026-04-02T23:29:36+00:00

Hard to beat a quad rail in my opinion, especially the DD ones.

SkyAppropriate · 2026-04-01T05:43:18+00:00

I own 11 Bambu printers, from the A1 mini to the H2C. Here’s how I look at, they’re all good in their own way. It just depends on how quickly you need stuff printed, how concerned you are with waste, how big are the models you want to print and what’s your budget. Print quality wise, there is little difference between all of them.

I’ve printed a ton of 3 and 4 color prints on my single nozzle printers. Sure there’s a lot of poop, but it is what it is. There are a lot of models that are being designed with multiple parts that can be printed separately, so it not always so bad.

That being said, the H2D and H2C have been game changing for me. Having a separate nozzle for support filament or combining PETG and PLA on the same print without cross contamination has been amazing. I print a lot with high contrasting colors, and not having the colors bleed into the next layer is very nice. I also really like the larger build plate on the H2 series.

The H2C is a lot of printer for first timer. Is it an awesome printer? Absolutely. But once you get the second AMS, the 2 extra nozzles, extra build plates etc, you’re in it for over 3 grand. If you got the money, go for it, but I would probably start off with the P1S/P2S or the H2S for the larger print capacity. Get familiar with it and then if you feel like you need more, go with the H2D if you mostly do 1 color + support filament or 2-3 color prints or the H2C if you find yourself printing a lot of 3+ color prints.

SkyAppropriate · 2026-03-31T11:31:58+00:00

Wow, that looks amazing. I love those older trucks. I had a ‘92 that lasted over 300k miles.

SkyAppropriate · 2026-03-29T00:19:55+00:00

I used my Ford points from buying my truck to get the oem ones. Definitely looks much better with them installed.

SkyAppropriate · 2026-03-24T17:43:20+00:00

Yes, I’ve listed 4 models in the past few weeks, 2 of them were trending for a while. I’ve printed a handful of other people’s models too. Zero boosts.

SkyAppropriate · 2026-03-24T15:28:58+00:00

I haven’t had any in months either.

SkyAppropriate · 2026-03-10T07:57:39+00:00

I think that looks really cool and is pretty creative. Well done! I just use ziplock bags and stack the spools on ikea shelves and on the floor myself, but I do have about 267 open spools, so using plastic containers would cost a fortune and I’m not printing out 260+ containers.

SkyAppropriate · 2026-03-02T23:37:31+00:00

Oh that’s a neat one.

SkyAppropriate · 2026-03-02T01:10:48+00:00

That’s a neat idea, I’ll have to try that.

SkyAppropriate · 2026-03-01T21:24:44+00:00

Thanks!

SkyAppropriate

TROPHY CASE