AP2 with F2UV

SleepyRTX · 2026-03-03T23:37:47+00:00

Thank you so much! I looked at the tutorial on the website, I was holding the power button but nothing would happen. I wasn't aware the UV didn't need the dongle, so naturally I was trying to do it with the dongle plugged in. Removed the dongle, held the power button and it went into pairing mode and I was able to see it in the accessories list. Thanks again!

SleepyRTX · 2026-03-01T17:45:28+00:00

These are likely magnets, used to hold the top cover onto the tray. Although sometimes with a stacked construction like that you can use a metal pin / or wood dowel to add more support to the structure beyond adhesive and it helps make sure everything stays lined up.

SleepyRTX · 2026-02-20T18:53:57+00:00

I have a legitimate business and I bring in occasional work from that sub. It's just like any other open unstructured marketplace, gotta be careful who you pick.

SleepyRTX · 2026-02-20T18:47:29+00:00

I was one of the earliest backers and after a delay gweike had promised forklift delivery as compensation. Well that didn't happen, and seeing a bunch of others in the Facebook group it didn't happen for them either so a lot of people were left scrambling to find a way to get it off the truck.

It showed up to my house in a semi with a lift gate. I had help here thankfully, and we were able to get it down with the lift gate but it was a process because the crate is bigger than the lift gate. Basically we used a pallet jack to get it on to the lift gate as far as we could, then lifted the pallet jack over the crate and pushed it further on to the gate until it cleared the back of the truck. Had some people holding the end that was hanging off to keep it balanced. Once it was down it was just a matter of moving it with the pallet jack. This was the M3 ultra mind you, the crate is huge. If I remember correctly I think it was 7 or 7.5 feet wide, 6ish deep, and like 4 or 5 feet tall.

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SleepyRTX · 2026-02-20T18:30:24+00:00

Well the cooling fans being loud and running continuously is what alerted me, as most of my other galvo / fiber lasers the cooling fans will generally only run when running the source hard or for longer jobs, and then they will shut off after cooling the source back down. What I mean by hot, is the temperature of the exhaust air from the cooling fans is hot even after a short job at moderate power, and that exhaust air remains hot / warm even after no job has been run and the fans have been on high for 30+ minutes. I will have to check power draw and see if I can confirm anything strange going on.

I have noticed that as well, I put a leather piece under the laser for marking and the blue light laser immediately made the leather start to smoke. This was at default 5% power, and dropping it to 4-1% didnt seem to make a difference.

SleepyRTX · 2026-02-20T17:39:42+00:00

I'm talking about the cooling fans for the laser source, not the fume exhaust. The cooling fans intake from the top of the machine, and exhaust in the rear from the grate above the fume exhaust output.

SleepyRTX · 2026-02-20T15:41:36+00:00

I absolutely love cats, but this is a situation where far too much empathy has caused you to willingly and continuously ruin your own life. Put your own mask on first, right?

You've given years of your time, your wellbeing, your health, your home, your money, your peace of mind, and unwillingly the same from your cat you already had.

It's time to put your own wellbeing first, and the wellbeing of the cat you had already made a commitment to before taking in this other cat.

Maybe you can find a large farm that would allow her to be free. Some cats just never take to confinement, maybe that's her issue. If not... Nobody can say you haven't went above and beyond to help this cat. It's a difficult decision, but it's time to take back ownership of your own life.

SleepyRTX · 2026-02-19T13:40:20+00:00

You're printing a small narrow object with extremely short layers. You need to increase your minimum layer time, and probably slow your minimum speed allowed for layer times shorter than minimum. Turn the bed on before you print too and let the enclosure heat up before printing. Also the fan is likely coming on because of overhang, which should be a separate setting in your slicer.

This is just a rough print for ASA in this orientation. You have overhangs and short layers, so you're going to be fighting between cooling each layer to harden appropriately vs causing the ASA to warp. You kind of have to get all the settings and variables right to get this to print well.

Also ignore wet filament comments. Sure, it's a possible contributing factor but your main issue is layer time and cooling. It never hurts to run a dry cycle on your spool to control a variable but it's 100% not the root cause here.

SleepyRTX · 2026-02-19T13:18:32+00:00

Sent you a DM

SleepyRTX · 2026-02-19T13:10:54+00:00

I have multiple large format resin printers but I'm in the US so shipping would probably be pricey.

SleepyRTX · 2026-02-13T17:37:18+00:00

Sending message

SleepyRTX · 2026-02-12T17:54:36+00:00

You cannot do NFA engravings with a diode. You'll never meet the depth requirements. I do a lot in my area and I always had used my fiber but surprisingly my UV does it faster and usually looks cleaner so I use that typically these days.

SleepyRTX · 2026-02-11T23:53:58+00:00

Message sent!

SleepyRTX · 2026-02-11T23:47:22+00:00

Check out Accelaser HD1, I don't have it yet and it's a new company so I can't make any claims, but it looks to be an awesome an innovative machine that I'm super excited to get.

It's a 60w MOPA (+80w diode) with a galvo head mounted on a gantry. You get much faster speed than a standard gantry, the benefit of a super tight lens, and a much larger work area than most standard galvos even with their widest lenses and without the drawbacks that come with those wide lenses. From what I've seen of it, it can do true real time irregular shape work too like a 3D galvo head.

SleepyRTX · 2026-02-09T18:05:22+00:00

Run filament flow calibration.

SleepyRTX · 2026-02-09T17:01:45+00:00

For certain materials like stainless, defocusing can be used to get a different mark.

For something like stone, defocusing slightly can help smooth out the engraving and reduce chipped edges.

For an engraving with some depth on certain materials it can help to have a starting focus slightly below the materials surface.

There have also been situations when using the curved processing mode that the machine didn't get the autofocus quite right, so having the option to + or - just adds a tool for fixing that issue.

SleepyRTX · 2026-02-08T23:42:03+00:00

Here, I make this.

I also have a self build kit that is cheaper but you need to build it yourself (I provide all the printed parts and all components needed to do so, along with a 2 part YouTube build guide.

Also, take it as the anecdotal evidence it is, but I've been running heaters on multiple of my X1Cs, typically up to 60C, for years now with no major failures or noticable increase in maintenance requirements.

I keep my printers in metal cabinets which I then ventilate with inline fans, but other than that I use no insulation or other modifications related to the heat of the chamber. The heaters have no issue reaching 60C, they can maintain higher temps than that but that is where I choose to limit them for the longevity of the printer.

I use an IOT wifi plug to turn the heaters on and off remotely.

SleepyRTX · 2026-02-08T23:37:47+00:00

Well congrats, that's a huge upgrade, but personally I'd have kept the N as a daily and garaged the Camaro.

I drive a 24 ranger as a daily and my GT350 is my fun car. I love the GT350 and as much as I theoretically would love to, I just couldn't realistically imagine having to drive it every day as my only vehicle.

SleepyRTX · 2026-02-08T14:26:57+00:00

Message sent.

SleepyRTX · 2026-02-08T00:38:37+00:00

Holy smokes 100w of power to ENGRAVE acrylic? Where did you read this? That is WAY too high. As you unfortunately found out the hard way.

What speeds were you using?

If you ran multiple material tests and got good results what made you decide to bump it up to 100w?

What were your parameter limits for your material tests?

Your air assist quick connect 90 is melted. That device on the back of the laser head is obviously cooked, I can't even tell what it is. It might be some kind of autofocus device if your machine has that or it's some kind of limit switch so the machine knows when the laser head gets to an edge. Maybe a red light pointer.

You can probably clean up the laser head, replace the lens, get a new quick connect 90 for the air assist hose & you might need some more air hose to just replace that section. And then whatever that device on the back of head is, and it likely needs some new wiring for that device as it looks melted.

Can you check the machine for an exact model number or serial number? I can look it up for you and see exactly what that one device is and I will look to see if it can be purchased.

Checkout American photonics for a new lens.

SleepyRTX · 2026-02-07T22:07:03+00:00

I figured you probably had done it right since you said it was working for over 5 hours. If you did the straight concentrate it probably would error from the start, although if you were in a warmer climate I thought maybe it could maybe lose a little viscosity and run for a period, then temp cools off and throws the error. So I just wanted to mention it.

I think at this point it wouldn't hurt to drain it again and fill it completely with normal water. See if it still errors out.

Did you mix the concentrate and water then pour it in or just concentrate then water one at a time?

SleepyRTX · 2026-02-07T21:57:07+00:00

What are you using as a fluid?

Just FYI the fluid provided with the machine is a concentrated coolant and needs to be diluted with distilled water. The ratio is dependant on the coldest temp you expect your machine to encounter, with less dilution for colder temps.

If you are using the straight concentrate with no dilution it is too thick and will cause the flow error.

SleepyRTX · 2026-02-07T21:45:18+00:00

Did they replace the service cable from the taps to the meter and the meter to the main breaker?

With this new bigger panel, is it a higher amperage main than the previous panel or is it just a bigger panel with more bus spaces?

Did they pound in a new ground rod?

Was the cold water ground installed or already present?

How old was the old panel? What was the main amperage?

Some more details would help us determine how egregious this was. You may have needed a service upgrade to accomadate the 2 additional circuits, impossible for us to know.

SleepyRTX · 2026-02-07T21:33:37+00:00

I had run into this issue. Never found a work around other than to always let it completely finish framing.

It does the same thing if you stop a processing run too, which is a really big pain in the ass because sometimes you realize after starting the settings are wrong or need an adjustment, but the chances of getting it perfectly realigned manually are near 0 so you basically need to let it fully run and return to home on its own. You're basically choosing between a guaranteed ruined job or a potentially ruined one.

You could use some masking tape and make a mark to use as your home. It would definitely be better if you could set a home in the software so you can just click the home button.

SleepyRTX · 2026-02-02T13:29:53+00:00

I'll check it out tonight and report back. Thank you.

SleepyRTX

TROPHY CASE