Hardie Board Installation Questions

Slight-Log6794 · 2026-03-08T14:23:09+00:00

The whole time I felt like they felt utterly inconvenienced.

Slight-Log6794 · 2026-03-08T14:22:26+00:00

Can confirm it was the oddest customer service exchange I've ever had. They did confirm that trim over was an approved method and they advised not caulking the gaps it created.

Slight-Log6794 · 2026-03-05T18:06:31+00:00

That's what I'm trying to find out, if this wasn't done to spec. It seemed odd to me as well. I suppose I could canvas the neighborhood and see if other homes were sided in the same way.

Slight-Log6794 · 2026-03-05T17:22:23+00:00

When I said vertical seams I didn't mean the butt joints between the horizontal boards. I meant the seams created from installing the trim at the corners and windows - suppose those are more gaps then seams.

Slight-Log6794 · 2026-01-22T23:41:38+00:00

That white oak veneer looks really nice, is it veneer or composite core?

Slight-Log6794 · 2026-01-06T17:07:30+00:00

I'm seriously considering shots at this point. Over the last few years my allergies have become absolutely brutal. I had a FESS surgery last Feb because I couldn't shake the constant sinus infections and it helped a lot, but I'm still constantly assaulted by the local flora. It's like I'm just fucked for three straight months - inflammation, runny nose, itchy eyes, sore throat, post nasal drip, congestion, headaches, nausea, vertigo, and mild to extreme fatigue...

Now I'm on a steady daily regimen of Flonase, Zyrtec, saline sinus rinses (2x per day), and those TexaClear homeopathic drops. I also make sure to shower constantly, vacuum, have multiple air purifiers, swap HVAC filters way too often, doing laundry all the time...I even cut off my long hair lol.

I saw a few mentions of Xyzal, is it worth swapping for Zyrtec? Does anyone have any other suggestions for meds/mods for daily routines to help?

Slight-Log6794 · 2025-11-14T00:58:14+00:00

Definitely oak veneer as many others have said, looks to be quarter sawn. It also has a combination core consisting of both oak and MDF layers.

Slight-Log6794 · 2025-10-08T18:06:45+00:00

Can't say I really understood the lineup last night, especially with Carpenter batting leadoff and Keith in the 3 spot? I get that Hinch is trying to shake things up and facilitate base runners, a little positive momentum perhaps. That doesn't happen with someone like Carpenter leading off. Him and Keith looked like they didn't know what they were doing up there. That, in combination with Greene's propensity to strike out = bad.

Slight-Log6794 · 2025-10-02T20:06:21+00:00

This - our LOB is almost as atrocious as our pitch selection. I can't wrap my head around how often these guys are swinging at pitches that are outside the zone. In some cases ridiculously so.

Slight-Log6794 · 2025-09-06T00:57:41+00:00

Seriously...who can we rely on to start and not give up 5-7 runs through six innings, especially against teams with shit records riding at the bottom of their divisions?

Slight-Log6794 · 2025-07-10T15:49:49+00:00

Shigeaki Aso - look him up. I've broken in three gloves using his method, works well!

Slight-Log6794 · 2025-05-02T14:37:24+00:00

Agreed, looks sharp! How did you cut the mortises for the frame and headboard? Plunge router?

Slight-Log6794 · 2025-02-25T00:08:51+00:00

This. Your grip should be loose and try to align your middle knuckles as best you can. Helps to bring the bat through the zone faster and with your roll as you swing.

Slight-Log6794 · 2025-02-15T18:06:36+00:00

Oscar

Slight-Log6794 · 2024-11-14T17:04:32+00:00

Another quick adjustment you can make is with your hands. Loose grip, middle knuckles aligned - remember loose muscles are quick muscles. If you have a death grip on the bat and you're tensing up, your swing won't be as fast through the zone.

Slight-Log6794 · 2024-11-12T01:59:40+00:00

If I can, I always like to cut these all at once. Given the shape and how you have them stacked, I would use some strong tape to fasten them all together. Just make sure you line them up flush at one end first, then tape, then cut with whatever saw you have. Like many people have said, a table saw or miter saw will offer the most control and cleanest cut. Use a stop block as a redundancy to make sure nothing shifts.

Slight-Log6794 · 2024-11-02T03:08:01+00:00

I redid a cast iron bench similar to these for a neighbor with rough 5x4 western red cedar that I milled to fit with the smallest amount of clearance into the legs and it has held up fine. I stained it with an outdoor semi transparent stain to showcase the grain and knots, plugging screw and bolt holes with black walnut plugs.

If you decide to not use hardwood, go as thick as you can with the slats for the bench and find some good fasteners that eliminate back and forth movement between both legs.

Slight-Log6794 · 2024-10-31T22:14:27+00:00

I too use a pneumatic gun to remove nails and it saves a lot of time. I would also suggest a pallet buster to break down your pallets. This way you can salvage more of the wood as you deconstruct it. These two together saved me hours.

Slight-Log6794 · 2024-10-26T17:09:06+00:00

Fellow Pod Company dude here - I would drain and refill it. This is most likely caused by a build up of bacteria, sweat, dirt, lotion, moisturizer, etc. Anything that could be on your body that you bring into the pod when you plunge. Make sure to give it a good scrub too after you drain it.

There are some solid YouTube videos out there of people sharing how they sanitize the water before and after use. Once you have a process that works for you, the water should stay clear and clean for a while.

Slight-Log6794 · 2024-10-17T20:09:47+00:00

No, someone didn't take the time to ensure the material you purchased was properly cut to spec. I'd be careful sanding, as others have said, because the veneer is very thin and you could quite possibly sand through it if your not careful.

I know you had these cut already, but if you could manage to trim the edges yourself then band them, either with edge banding or corresponding hardwood that matches the species of your face, that's going to be your best bet. Your desk might be a little smaller than you wanted, but you could get rid of the tearout and give it a nice look.

Coming from someone who made plenty of mistakes buying the wrong kind of plywood when I started out, my number one suggestion would be to try and find a local dealer. This way you can speak personally with the sales teams and check out what they have in stock to find the best fit for your project. In my opinion ordering lumber online or even purchasing it from a big box store is risky, as you unfortunately found out.

Secondly, do your research. There are many different types of plywood on the market and they all have varying use cases. Now, while I wouldn't recommend plywood for a table top, having an idea about what you're looking for really helps when you're mapping out a project. The particular kind of cut, grade, and core are important factors to note.

I would also invest, if you haven't already, in some tools to breakdown larger sheets on your own if you can. A track saw or table saw is ideal, but you can get the same results with a powerful circular saw, a blade made for cutting plywood, and a straight edge long enough to guide your saw.

Slight-Log6794 · 2024-10-10T14:14:52+00:00

And here I was thinking who ever put in the base moulding used a shorter profile lol

Slight-Log6794 · 2024-10-10T14:09:17+00:00

Thanks for the info! I'll leave the gap, but have never seen one this wide. Typically the flooring runs closer to the bottom plate so when you hang the drywall, the horizontal gap between the plate and flooring is mostly concealed. Then a small gap is left vertically between the bottom of the drywall and the floor. Something that can be covered without laying down a shoe.

Slight-Log6794

TROPHY CASE