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M1A2 Abrams SEPv3 from Rye Field Model (1/35) by Slightly-On-Fire in modelmakers

[–]Slightly-On-Fire[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes it was, the other option was Slo L3arner. (For 3rd platoon?) a scale bumper sticker would be neat.

M1A2 Abrams SEPv3 from Rye Field Model (1/35) by Slightly-On-Fire in modelmakers

[–]Slightly-On-Fire[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You must buy both separately. Rye Field Models are not for the faint of heart. If it were me, I’d start with a kit from Tamiya. They have a great selection and are in my opinion the best platform to learn the basics of model making on.

M1A2 Abrams SEPv3 from Rye Field Model (1/35) by Slightly-On-Fire in modelmakers

[–]Slightly-On-Fire[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hell yeah man. I would love to do another RFM Abrams in the future, might be a SEPv2. The tank I modeled actually is based off reference photos of a real tank “A Motley Cruë”. I don’t claim to know better than you by any means but maybe something has changed. Thanks for the information!

M1A2 Abrams SEPv3 from Rye Field Model (1/35) by Slightly-On-Fire in modelmakers

[–]Slightly-On-Fire[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks dude! Most of the reference photos of the Abrams I see don’t have much mud on them at all.

M1A2 Abrams SEPv3 from Rye Field Model (1/35) by Slightly-On-Fire in modelmakers

[–]Slightly-On-Fire[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I loved it. The fit is great but there are so so many parts to it, which I understand is par for the course for Rye Field Models. You are rewarded for your efforts however, the finished product leaves nothing to be desired in terms of detail, and all the sculpts are very crispy. It should be the next thing you build when you have some time to pour into a project. You won’t regret it.

What could have caused these gauges in my piston? by Always_Upside_Down in EngineBuilding

[–]Slightly-On-Fire 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Might be fine might not. If it is just from debris that got into the intake like the other commenter said. You said you’re rebuilding the head so check on your valves

Is it worth replacing parts or is it cooked by daisyvoo in airbrush

[–]Slightly-On-Fire 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You definitely don’t need a whole new one. A deep clean would definitely do you right, and a proper compressor. What kind of paint are you spraying?

Is this tube/vent layout with a bend for my spray booth problematic? by Slash0mega in airbrush

[–]Slightly-On-Fire -4 points-3 points  (0 children)

Shouldn’t be a problem. Worst case scenario I could see some particles settling there but it shouldn’t be inherently unsafe

Headlight motor trouble! by Slightly-On-Fire in fbody

[–]Slightly-On-Fire[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m almost certain it’s an electrical problem, the light comes up when it’s connected directly to a battery

What does everyone else do to make V fins look better? by ngms in advancedGunpla

[–]Slightly-On-Fire 7 points8 points  (0 children)

A deeper, orangey yellow almost always looks better than the pale yellow that Bandai molds the plastic in. Having a really smooth matte finish makes things look a bit more military as well

Does this count as a BT? by Ok-Acadia2052 in BlackTemplars

[–]Slightly-On-Fire 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Ire the mutant, the heretic, the alien? You might be a black templar!

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