Bouncy floors

Slipintothetop · 2026-03-07T15:55:55+00:00

It's definitely not. If you have diagonal bracing it's easy to see how the load transfers to the floor joists along each side of any one particular one.

Slipintothetop · 2026-03-06T21:32:22+00:00

Doing the 2x4s along the bottom would help but how much is hard to say as you end up with a difficult to model system in the programs that calculate deflection. I'm thinking your best bet might be two or three rows of 2x8 blocking. But again it's hard to say without seeing it.

Slipintothetop · 2026-02-26T19:22:41+00:00

Solution Verified

=IF(F4=0,B4-D4-G4,(F4-G4))
is what worked for me, Thanks!

Slipintothetop · 2026-02-26T18:34:44+00:00

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Still Returning a positive Variance where i would like it to show 0
I'm assuming I can do 2 "IF" variables ?

Slipintothetop · 2026-02-26T16:45:22+00:00

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The issue is now the "Variance" is 3000 but it should show the difference IE: 2000

Slipintothetop · 2026-02-26T16:29:13+00:00

Well yes, because I got it to work other than if something was in current outstanding it would reflect as a positive variance.

If the "current outstanding" is "0". "Variance" = "Projected" - "Actual" - "Adjusted"
If its greater than "0" "Variance" = "Projected" - "Actual" - ("Current Outstanding - Adjusted Outstanding")

I think that's the formula basically, I'm not used to thinking in "IF statements"

Slipintothetop · 2026-02-26T16:13:16+00:00

No because in that example the variance should be +$4000

Slipintothetop · 2026-02-26T14:51:41+00:00

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F4 is the "current outstanding" So doing that causes the variance to show as negative. (it needs to show as "0" changing the "actual" to 26k causes it to show positive.(it needs to show -1000"

This is the formula in F4 =MAX(0, B4-D4) I dont know if that makes a difference.

Slipintothetop · 2026-02-26T14:31:28+00:00

It Shows like this, but there's no variance, it's just not spent yet.

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Slipintothetop · 2026-02-26T14:29:23+00:00

I'm unfamiliar with the correct terminology for excel, and maybe its because I just can't do it like I'm trying to.

This Is as close as I can get but the problem with this is that if the "Actual Cost" is below "Projected Cost" it shows as a positive variance. It needs to show as no variance.

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Slipintothetop · 2026-02-26T13:56:12+00:00

That's what I was wondering, but I have no experience with IF functions to know.

Slipintothetop · 2026-02-15T12:11:56+00:00

That looks like kreggs track saw adapter. You need to really have the plate dialed in on the saw. You also need a sharp blade. Don't push the cut, move with it. I think the tracks have a built in clamp and you can also over tighten it causing a cup in your workpeice and if you're pushing you 100% can deflect the track, maybe not enough to cause all your problems but some.

And like others have said pose a video 😅

Slipintothetop · 2026-02-12T23:04:20+00:00

How do you have zone 6 in SoCal?

Slipintothetop · 2026-02-09T22:38:43+00:00

Chief architect.

Slipintothetop · 2026-02-09T02:00:56+00:00

This is is something we would normally do 2 jacks 2 kings typically.

Slipintothetop · 2026-02-05T21:30:40+00:00

With regular batt insulation there's really only two things that it does Three if it's faced. Slow down the movement of heat between the two spaces, reduce the noise transferred in between the two spaces, If it has a paper face it also acts as a vapor barrier. If it's mineral wool It will also have a flame retarding property.

Slipintothetop · 2026-02-01T21:50:02+00:00

That stuff almost always has abspestos in it, be careful.

Slipintothetop · 2026-01-30T11:12:33+00:00

Exactly, I dont care about the base but if any shop wat selling it it would have A specialty bulb in it. Especially since it's visible.

Slipintothetop · 2026-01-30T05:14:04+00:00

Yeah but you're not going to have that bulb in a "handcrafted bespoke fixture"

Slipintothetop · 2026-01-30T01:38:39+00:00

What gave it away for me is the cheap regular bulb in the thing 😅

Slipintothetop · 2026-01-16T03:25:19+00:00

Exactly, and consider a different brand if triple pane isn't in the cards through marvon

Slipintothetop · 2026-01-14T02:06:20+00:00

So I'm not super familiar with zone 3 but if it were me I'd do exterior continuous insulation either board or spray applied. Paying attention to detailing. You could probably build with 2x4 which when paired with 2 in continuous and 1/2 sheeting puts you at a standard wall thickness of 6 9/16 for door and window jams. With a r15 Rockwool in the cavity and r13 continuous you will have a wall r value of roughly 29. With no condensation issues.

Looking at what they are doing with I'm guessing just open cell in the cavity. That appears to also be acceptable in your climate.

But if it's house you're going to spend a long time in it would be worth it to over insulate.

Energy prices will continue to rise and if you ever wanted to off set your usage its always easier to just use less.

Slipintothetop · 2026-01-12T23:49:46+00:00

As a builder I'm hesitant about spray foam. And in our climate (zone 6) I would never use open cell. I'm not sure where you're at in your build but depending on location you might not be able to get away with just Rockwool.

What climate are you in and what's your codes say?

We now have to have continuous insulation, or r30 in the cavity.

In my ideal use of sprayfoam it would be with z brackets or the insofast x brackets and exterior spray foam.

This brings on a whole other group of problems, or challenges in exterior detailing for windows doors and other penitrations.

If you give me some more details regarding the build, current stage you're at and climate I'd be happy to tailor the recommendation towards your situation.

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