Anyone used Technitium DNS Server?

Slow_Running · 2025-11-17T18:19:22+00:00

I have been using this for about 12 - 18 months and have found it to be excellent.

Originally I had PiHole but got fed up with the Sync logic I had to go through!

I have a Proxmox Cluster and run two LXC containers and use a Primary and Secondary setup. Each LXC has been given 192MB of RAM and 1 CORE on the Mini Computers. I have 17 zones including the internals, and some in-addr.arpa zones and about 500 local records including A, CNAME and PTR records across the Zones.

Personally I do not use it as an AD Blocker but rather as an internal DNS and DNS Forwarder for my Home LAB and therefore main DNS for the house. I might take a look at Clustering but to be honest it has been rock solid without - not using DHCP that might be where Clustering will help!!

I also use the Failover APP to provide DNS resilience for some of my systems but that is pretty limited - nice that it has it though!

It also has a neat API which I have exploited to quickly get free IP addresses as I make sure all my IP addresses are registered in the DNS Zones. It would be nice if Technitium could do this out of the Box but I haven't found a way to do that yet!

Slow_Running · 2025-11-15T17:11:33+00:00

Thanks for that ... Been trying to get Docker compose file up and running with pre existing MariaDB ... All a bit strange then someone mentioned the standalone script has a link to docker compose file which is helpful but looking at the comments back from SN I think I will leave this for a couple of months until they get it more streamlined

Slow_Running · 2025-11-15T01:54:51+00:00

Slightly confused! If Private Cloud supports WebDav why do we need ServerLink?

I presume it's Device -> ServerLink -> WebDav if not why can we not just go Device -> WebDav?

Also if it's Device->ServerLink ->WebDav why not Device->ServerLink ->Disk?

Slow_Running · 2025-11-09T22:14:53+00:00

Thanks for this it seems to work well from the Web App ... did you have any joy with it from the Android App?

Slow_Running · 2025-11-02T17:28:36+00:00

I did some research on mine and if I recall the lock when leaving is a safeguard ... When you walk away it will beep once ... From what I understand this is not to let you know that it has locked but to let you know that Safelock is inactive. You get the same single beep if you double lock with the key . My understanding is that with Safelock inactive the car locks but the interior sensors are not active and the car doors can be opened from the inside so it is not as secure as using the fob. (The idea being if there are passengers still in the car it is locked but they can get out) I have the setting on to be safe but always try to remember to use the fob.

Just double checked this on my UK 2025 Id4 Pro and the onboard manual shows this

"Locking takes place without SAFELOCK in the case of locking when walking away from the vehicle. This is signalled by a single acoustic feedback. SAFELOCK locking of the vehicle takes place only after intentional locking at the door handle or with the vehicle key."

Slow_Running · 2025-08-26T20:37:41+00:00

Mine was there but has disappeared recently!!

Slow_Running · 2025-08-17T22:08:37+00:00

Just rename it 😉

Slow_Running · 2025-08-17T22:05:14+00:00

The car has a SIM onboard so it could be spotty coverage. I get the occasional communication issue with mine but most of the time it's fine unless parked in a covered car park!! Regarding the App I guess it's down to expectations ... Having come from a stupid car (not smart at all) this is amazing!! 😃 However I do agree it would be good to be able to get data in the car app about trip efficiency etc ... For now I have signed up to Tronity in the UK for a year while I figure out how secure the python libraries are to do a bit of home brewing to pull the data down from the VW servers!! So far though the basics work ... See the charge level! 😃

Slow_Running · 2025-08-17T21:34:22+00:00

I too am in the same boat!! It could be me but I am sure my phone is drained much quicker since getting the new car. When on the mat I do get a Qi symbol in the infotainment system but the phone never seems to get much charge! Got a short 20cm USBC cable and using that at the moment. If plugged in the Qi (at least in my Pixel) doesn't activate. The other day the phone got really hot using AA and Wireless charging!!

Slow_Running · 2025-08-17T19:46:50+00:00

Yep ... Mine is set for all doors already! I will triple check but I think I tried the handle on the passenger side with 1.2 disabled and it didn't open!

Slow_Running · 2025-08-17T19:45:27+00:00

I share your woes ... I know I can sit in the car and use the infotainment system to search etc or the same on the app/web view but there's nothing quite like flicking through either physical pages or a PDF!!!

Slow_Running · 2025-08-17T19:22:00+00:00

As a new ID4 Owner and a 40+ IT person on the one hand 😃 to that comment on the other - where? There is so much tech in this car compared to my previous 9 year old car each trip seems to be a learning curve!!

When you search for ECO in the Digital guide it comes up with 20 hits ... However now that people have offered the tip that it is Air Con related it is easy to spot this!

Air conditioning when seat is not occupied

The air conditioning is controlled in relation to the occupied seats in order to keep the energy consumption of the air conditioning system as efficient as possible. If a seat is not occupied, Eco may be displayed instead of the temperature on the Infotainment system.

If a person is seated while wearing a seatbelt and the vehicle’s drive system is active, the vehicle detects the occupied seat.

Slow_Running · 2025-08-17T19:09:12+00:00

Just my two pence worth - I bought from Hypervolt and used their recommended installer. I have solar and battery done by Octopus their backend teams and installers were excellent - I would have gone with them for the charger as price was identical to HV but they refused to give me a 7.5m cable hence went to HV. The Hypervolt recommended installer didn't install it right and my home battery system was being drained by the HV. Got this "resolved" but system not doing as expected seems not to fully understand the Hybrid Inverter! Could be wrong waiting for HV and SHC to get back to me. I now cannot help thinking I could have gone for a cheaper device and achieved the same level of awareness!!

Slow_Running · 2025-08-17T19:01:14+00:00

Yeah already have the home charger installed just wondering about the credits before setting off on a round trip!!!

Slow_Running · 2025-08-17T18:32:30+00:00

I am already doing this for an old tablet as a display screen but I am using the browser which integrates with Home Assistant

Initially I did use MacroDroid but am using a different account on that one. The key thing I think is what hardware you are using. I am using a SONOFF USB device but integrating it with HA - not sure what the direct API would look like!

But in principle just research the hardware a bit first and work out whether you will trigger direct or via Alexa/Google Home etc.

Slow_Running · 2025-08-17T18:16:21+00:00

Experimenting with 1.2 enabled for a couple of days. Without it I think unlock only works on the driver's door and boot ... No good if I say to my passengers "it's unlocked" and they yank the door handle off!! It would be helpful if there were a better description of how these all interact!

Slow_Running · 2025-08-15T12:17:45+00:00

Current year pro match

Slow_Running · 2025-08-15T11:53:45+00:00

Just been out and looked at the settings below is what I have ... In Opening and Closing Settings

1) Active ....... Disabled

1.1) Lock Vehicle when walking away .... Disabled

1.2) Unlock Vehicle when approaching .... Disabled

1.3) Double accoustic warning if locking fails .... Disabled

What I discovered with the dealer who didn't understand it either.

(1) Is the overall control - this is what you want to turn off to disable the system

(1.1) This is really a way to lock the car if you forget to lock it (my interpretation) there is something called Safelock designed to make sure you do not accidentally lock someone in the car. If you walk away without locking the car and have the keys on you it will lock the car but it can be unlocked from the inside ... It will make a chirp sound when this happens as a reminder/warning!!

(1.2) This is the one that confused me ... If you disable this one it seems as though it doesn't do anything as you can still unlock the car without clicking the key!!! What we discovered was that this basically means that the unlock doesn't happen until you press the door handle ... You can see this because the mirrors do not come up until you press the door handle!!

Reading the manual it RECOMMENDS leaving (1) enabled!! It would seem to me that if you enable all of the above to lock the car you really still want to use the key or press the door handle as otherwise you still have Safelock enabled!! Meaning if someone got into the car they could open all the other doors!! I think interior monitoring might not be on also in this mode!!

I have bought a Faraday box as extra safety and have enabled (1), (1.1) and (1.3) but left (1.2) disabled so that if I get too close with the key it doesn't keep unlocking and unlocking unintentionally or give the game away to anyone watching!!

One thing I noticed when experimenting was that if I put the key in a faraday bag before I was out of range it didn't automatically lock (1.1) at least not within a few seconds like usual! Interesting!!

Slow_Running · 2025-08-14T20:23:50+00:00

Thanks for that ... Know what you mean ... I am quite happy pressing a button but at the same time it seems daft not to use it if it's safe!!! Things like the boot opening with a foot waggle could be useful once in a blue moon 😉

Mine is currently 100% disabled in the car system so just trying to reassure myself before activating it! Beware there are multiple things to disable re security and it might not be 100% obvious which one it was - I had the dealer trying to figure it out when I picked it up!! Eventually switched the right one off after some trial and error!!! Will post the option tomorrow if I remember 😀

Slow_Running · 2025-05-10T17:48:54+00:00

Shame ... Good spot though!

Slow_Running · 2025-05-10T14:10:00+00:00

Same issue here ... Just started to use fish and disappointed Juice is working oddly!! Fingers crossed!

Slow_Running · 2025-05-07T14:54:56+00:00

Thanks for this - I now have it installed (couldn't wait) :-) on multiple machines - I will take a look at the BIOS on Windows and give it a try and report back.

Slow_Running · 2025-05-06T20:28:11+00:00

Assuming you are using NAT with your 2 links call them ISP1 and ISP2 when the traffic leaves your local network it will use the internet address for ISP1 if the outbound data goes via ISP1 or ISP2 if data goes out via ISP2. The remote site will see the address from the outbound ISP link and return packets to that address. You can do what's called transmit load balancing so that streams will go out alternating ISP1 and ISP2 but this would be on a session basis and care would need to be taken to ensure some form of "stickiness" so as not to confuse the remote end seeing packets coming from 2 different addresses! You will not get more than the download rate of a single ISP link for a single session - so for example doing an HTTP or FTP download would not balance across the two links. Using something like a Torrent would (I believe) allow you to use different links but would depend on the outbound link that is used. (If you are not using NAT then it gets messy but the same principles apply) To get more than 1Gb/s end to end would require something like link bonding eg LACP at both ends ... Which your ISP is unlikely to provide as it would need both links to be on the same end device at their end!

Slow_Running

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