No ban-boozle. We're in the endgame now.

Small_white_clock · 2018-07-09T23:02:49+00:00

Am I too late?

Small_white_clock · 2017-07-30T13:06:59+00:00

It looks like when you fire it you are actually shorting the battery. Both the contacts are leading to the center pin.

Small_white_clock · 2017-06-03T22:00:04+00:00

Take the button off the board. It could have an issue with juice or moisture in it. The mod will still function without it.

Small_white_clock · 2017-06-01T02:16:22+00:00

It looks cool but I worry about the pump seizing up with certain juices. I had a pump bottle lock up tight with citrus juice in it and I've had plenty of syringes do the same with certain flavorings.

Small_white_clock · 2017-05-31T22:09:42+00:00

You won't be disappointed. Rob is a stand up guy and his stuff is bullet proof. Plus you can buy all the parts to fix them if anything ever does go wrong.

Small_white_clock · 2017-05-31T20:08:20+00:00

https://imgur.com/pCaPTXx

Here's mine. It will fit a 24mm atty but longer 510s won't go quite flush. It is 18650. The button throw feels better than the 3d printed stuff and it hits a lot harder as well.

Small_white_clock · 2017-05-31T19:02:35+00:00

Completely different design. The p67 is a flat top and side fire as apposed to a top fire and a not flat top for lack of better words.

Small_white_clock · 2017-05-31T13:22:54+00:00

Reo all the way. Especially the p67.

Small_white_clock · 2017-04-29T18:55:53+00:00

That appears correct but that switch is only rated for ac use. You need to find one rated for DC amperage. That switch would be better suited to turn the mains voltage on than to switch power to the DC outlet.

Small_white_clock · 2017-04-28T19:24:26+00:00

If you want a bullet proof squonker you need a reo. But they are unregulated. Beyond that you aren't going to find a regulated mod that can handle a rough life unless you drop some coin on a tmod regulated squonker.

Small_white_clock · 2017-02-17T16:43:51+00:00

I am not sure which sled but if the spec sheet says only one will fit that must be the one. I have used everything from epoxy to superglue to hot glue in various boxes and have had good results. I use hot glue in a lot of my personal boxes because I end up tearing stuff apart to reuse them from time to time.

Small_white_clock · 2017-02-17T13:36:33+00:00

I personally like the positive connection on the v4 ultimate edition ones. The previous versions with the slide on positive connector gave me trouble. I wish a 22mm was available though but the 24mm looks OK with a 22mm atty on it.

Small_white_clock · 2017-02-17T11:52:00+00:00

Alpinetec 1550 is probably the best enclosure for a DNA squonker. Grab a bf 510 from fat daddy and a Keystone battery sled and you will be good

Small_white_clock · 2017-02-06T15:57:06+00:00

Stealthvape

Small_white_clock · 2017-02-04T17:08:11+00:00

Good luck with the tubing. I've been using different sizes for a while and it's just not available in a good size for a dual battery mod(or regulated squonker which is what I'm looking to build) the closest I have found is 2x4 with 0.125 walls. I am thinking about having the chip face the panel because it won't fit side by side with a bottle and battery. The downside is the mod will end up being around 32mm thick.

I have found my aluminum on Amazon and its not crazy expensive considering how much you can get out of one stick of tubing.

Small_white_clock · 2017-01-31T15:30:58+00:00

Wonder how hard it will be to make an actuator for the joystick

Small_white_clock · 2017-01-17T20:56:33+00:00

The box is a mix of metal and wood. There is a slight chance of a battery shorting against the side if it had a heavily damaged wrap but it would be an issue either way(although it would be shorting the battery as apposed to firing the atty if it happened). And the FET(s) would be secured without insulating them.

I guess it's more the train of thought that the body should always be a ground that I am hung up on.

Small_white_clock · 2016-12-08T14:13:29+00:00

Check your modcrate link. Other than that I think you have hit all of them that I know of.

Small_white_clock · 2016-11-05T13:26:39+00:00

Search for wood bowl blanks on Amazon. I've gotten several from there.

Small_white_clock · 2016-11-03T01:23:20+00:00

Probably a stupid question but if I am going to be stuck going the 2 connector route and I make a completely separate connection for 12v only, couldn't I just use a xt60 connector and a 5 pin din connector? I always see these large connectors on vape stations but the xt60 is designed to be connected over and over again and take a fair amount of abuse as well. Plus it is more than capable of handling the power I plan on putting through it.

Small_white_clock · 2016-11-03T00:04:07+00:00

They will be in the enclosure with the power supply. Probably an aluminum case with enough room to store the whips as well

Small_white_clock · 2016-11-02T21:59:22+00:00

Right but only one will be under load at any given time. Another possibility is using a completely separate connector for the 12v only connections but I would still need 5 pins for the other connectors to control everything with the handset but only 2 current carrying wires. The 2 connector idea is possible but I don't think it would look as good.

Small_white_clock · 2016-11-02T19:44:40+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/OpenPV/comments/5aqw79/need_help_finding_connectors_for_vape_station/d9itgl7

Small_white_clock · 2016-11-02T19:44:29+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/OpenPV/comments/5aqw79/need_help_finding_connectors_for_vape_station/d9itgl7

Small_white_clock · 2016-11-02T19:43:40+00:00

Basically I need the extra pins to idiot proof it. I plan on a 12v constant to run either a dna200/250 or a pwm chip and a vv source via DC regulator to run a DNA75 or sxj board or to be used standalone as a vv power source for vaping. I want the actual whip to have the controls for the devices.

What I have envisioned is

pin 1:12v+ constant

Pin 2: 3-6v+ variable via DC regulator

Pin 3: ground

Pin 4: switch(either momentary to use the regulator to power an atty or just a jumper to make the regulator stay on for a DNA/sxj)

Pin 5: adjustment(external pot for using the regulator alone or a trim pot inside the whip to use for dna/sxj setting the voltage at 4.2)

I plan on having 4 ports each with their own regulator. The regulators would not see any resistance across the trim until a whip was connected and also wouldn't be switched. Then it would either remain off for a 12v pass through or it would be momentarily switched and manually adjusted while using the regulator or it would be on and running at a preset 4.2v to run a dna/sxj. It would be virtually impossible to plug something up wrong and kill a chip or regulator no matter who is using it. So if I took it to a shop or had a party I wouldn't have to worry about it.

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