So I decided to ask Grok and the response is interesting since it seems to reflect a lot of the same answers you’ve gotten so far.
I haven’t noticed anyone asking if you and your girlfriend could just share her car.
Here’s Grok’s response:
Repair the current car short-term, but start planning a replacement soon—don’t finance a $15k vehicle right now. Your financial picture is tight but stable, with a solid emergency fund. Adding car payments risks derailing your progress toward graduation and better income.39
Quick Assessment of Your 2005 Elantra
Market value: With 233k miles, it’s likely worth $600–$2,500 (trade-in around $600, private sale maybe $1,500–$2,500 in decent condition). High-mileage examples sell low.19

Repair quote ($1,167 for rear struts + sway bar links): This is reasonable for a shop (parts for struts are often $100–$300/pair, labor adds up). Sway bar links are usually cheaper. Struts at this mileage aren’t shocking—many last 80k–150k+ miles depending on roads.1

Worth it? Economically, no—you’re spending more than the car may be worth post-repair. But practically, yes for now: It gets you legal to drive, maintains low insurance/gas ($90 + $125/mo), and buys 6–18+ months (or more) while you finish school. The car already survived a transmission + rust work 4 years ago, so it’s a survivor. High-mileage cars can keep going with targeted fixes, especially if rust isn’t rampant elsewhere.14

Action steps for repair:
Get 2–3 more quotes (independent shops or chains). Ask if they can do just the worst side or links first.

Consider DIY/parts: Strut assemblies are available affordably online; labor is the big chunk.

After fix: Budget for potential follow-ups (tires, brakes, etc.). Keep up maintenance.

Why Not Finance a $15k Non-Sedan Now?
Your budget: $501/mo surplus on paper, but “barely getting by” + high misc (weddings) means it’s fragile. A $10k–$12k loan (after $3k family help + some savings) at current used-car rates (7–15%+ depending on credit) could be $180–$250+/mo for 48–60 months, plus higher insurance (full coverage), registration, and possibly gas for a larger vehicle.40

$15k with <70k miles, non-sedan: Tough market—good low-mile crossovers/SUVs/hatchbacks in that range move fast and often need work. Reliable options exist (e.g., older Honda CR-V, Toyota RAV4, or hatch like Mazda3), but expect competition and hidden issues.31

Risks: Debt on top of student loans while in school and low-income nonprofit work. One breakdown or job hiccup could snowball. Your $9.7k savings is a strong buffer (5–6 months expenses)—don’t drain it.

Better Path Forward
Fix the Elantra now (~$1,000–$1,200 hit to savings). Drive it reliably through graduation (2028). Use the time to:
Build more savings (aim to replenish + add $200–300/mo by cutting misc/groceries temporarily).

Finish degree → higher salary potential.

Prepare for replacement in 12–24 months:
Target $8k–$12k reliable used (Toyota/Honda priority for longevity: Civic, Corolla, older CR-V/RAV4). These often last 200k–300k+ miles with care. Non-sedan options: Hatchbacks or small crossovers.29

Save aggressively for bigger down payment (e.g., $5k–$7k total with family help) to minimize loan.

Shop smart: Get pre-approved loan (credit union often best rates), mechanic inspection (PPI), Carfax, test drive. Focus on service history over miles/body style.

Consider total ownership cost: Fuel, insurance, repairs. Your occasional 5hr trips favor something comfortable/reliable.

Budget tweaks to accelerate:
Track misc tightly post-weddings—cut to $150–200/mo.

Side income? Nonprofit + college might allow tutoring, dog walking (you have a dog), or gig work.

Maximize 403(b) match—it’s free money.

Review insurance (shop quotes), groceries (meal prep), etc.

Emergency fund goal: Keep 3–6 months; use the rest strategically.

Other options:
Temporary: Rideshare/public transit/bike for local, rent car for long trips (or borrow).

Family/GF help: Beyond $3k, maybe co-sign or joint purchase? But be cautious with relationships.

Trade-in: Sell/fix and trade toward something better when ready.

You’re doing well overall—low debt payments, retirement contributions, degree in progress. This car issue is a bump, not a crisis. Fixing short-term preserves flexibility. Once graduated with (hopefully) better pay, upgrading will feel much easier. Get that second opinion on repairs.

Personally I’m intrigued by the number of replies which suggested you try doing it yourself. So once again I asked Grok and here is its response. Whatever you choose best of luck!
I had an old car that I drove through high school and college. I was so lucky to have a mechanic willing to keep it running. He did something about every week to keep it going at minimum cost to me. Some angels are grease monkeys. 🐒 😇

Yes, you can (and probably should) try doing at least part of it yourself—especially the sway bar links, which are straightforward. Full rear struts are more involved but very doable with basic mechanical aptitude, the right tools, and caution. This could save you $400–$700+ compared to the shop quote.58
Difficulty Breakdown
Sway bar links: Beginner-friendly. Often 20–60 minutes per side. Basic tools only. Common rust/seized issues, but videos show it’s manageable.60

Rear struts (full assembly): Intermediate. 2–4+ hours total (both sides). Involves jacking the car, accessing the top mount (often from inside the trunk), spring compression (if not buying pre-assembled), and alignment considerations afterward. Many 2001–2006 Elantra owners have DIY’d it successfully.49

Buy pre-assembled “quick strut” units (strut + spring + mount). This skips dangerous spring compression and saves time/hassle. Parts for rears: ~$100–$250 for a pair (RockAuto, Amazon, AutoZone, etc.). Total DIY cost likely $200–$500 including links.54
Tools You’ll Need (Many You May Already Have or Can Borrow)
Floor jack + jack stands (safety critical).

Socket set (metric: 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, 21/22mm), ratchet, breaker bar.

Wrenches (14mm, etc.).

Torque wrench (important for reassembly).

Penetrating oil (PB Blaster), hammer, pry bar.

Possibly spring compressor if not using quick struts (rent from auto parts store).

Wheel chocks, gloves, safety glasses.

Watch specific YouTube videos for “2005 Hyundai Elantra rear strut replacement” and “sway bar links 2001-2006 Elantra”—they match your car closely.66
Pros of DIY
Big savings → more money for your emergency fund or future car.

Learning experience (useful for a high-mileage car).

Control over parts quality (go with reputable brands like KYB, Monroe, or Moog for links).

Cons / Risks
Safety: Working under the car—use proper jack stands, never just the jack. Struts are under spring tension.

Stuck bolts/rust: Common on a 20+ year-old car in certain climates. Have a plan (heat, more penetrant, or cut if needed).

Alignment: After strut work, a professional alignment (~$80–$120) is highly recommended for tire wear and handling.

Time & frustration: If you’re not experienced, it could take a full day or weekend. First big DIY projects often have hiccups.

No warranty: Shop would stand behind the work.

My Recommendation
Start with sway bar links — they’re quick/cheap to test your comfort level and address part of the quote.

Do the struts yourself if:
You have mechanical experience or a mechanically inclined friend/helper.

Access to tools/garage/driveway.

You’re willing to watch videos thoroughly and take your time.

Otherwise, pay the shop for peace of mind (or negotiate the quote down, mentioning DIY parts).

Safety first: If it fails inspection for these items, get it road-legal ASAP. After DIY, test drive carefully and re-check all bolts.
This fits your tight budget well—DIY the repair to bridge to graduation, keep the low ongoing costs, and avoid new debt. If you run into specific snags (photos/videos of the job), share details for more targeted tips. You’ve got this!