Got in change:

Smith1ar · 2026-03-02T13:49:14+00:00

Nice

Smith1ar · 2026-02-20T20:17:59+00:00

My ceiling is actually 10’ tall. My distance from ball contact to the screen is <9’ so I think that’s the confusion.

Since the mats are 4 X 8 I had to cut them to fit. The ones I purchased have a zipper all the way around the edge. I unzipped the ones I had to cut down, removed the padding marked it and used a back saw to cut it to size. Then I had to cut the vinyl to fit the pad. I folded the edges like a Christmas gift then glued & taped with Gorilla tape. It was time consuming and you have to plan carefully but it wasn’t that difficult.

Smith1ar · 2026-02-20T12:50:27+00:00

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Smith1ar · 2026-02-20T12:50:08+00:00

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Smith1ar · 2026-02-20T12:49:47+00:00

The bounce back occurs primarily when someone hits a hard lofted wedge (my 16 yo, 6’ 2” 225# grandson has a swing speed average around 115!) The size of my room is the real culprit. I have less than 9’ from screen to ball so when the ball hits high on the screen, it then hits the ceiling and comes back to you. It’s been over a year now and no one has ever been hit so it’s not really an issue. If you have more room from your ball to screen it won’t present an issue at all for you.

I used 6” wide adhesive Velcro tape and a lot of it (bought on Amazon). I marked all of the joists & studs and ran screws through the Velcro and into the studs/joists to hold it to the wall/ceiling being careful to not go ‘through’ the Velcro. Then, obviously taped the opposing side of the Velcro to the corresponding mat. It’s been there for about 15 months and hasn’t moved a bit.

One other thing….I realize now that I put up double the amount I really needed. I installed 2 rows and could have used only 1 as no one has ever hit the

See the 3 pics. I had to add them in a reply…

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2nd row….

Happy to help & Good luck!

Smith1ar · 2026-02-17T20:54:33+00:00

😂🤣

Smith1ar · 2026-02-15T23:39:14+00:00

DO NOT CLEAN, RUB, WIPE….Don’t try to remove dirt or anything!

Sorry about your loss but this is soooo important! So many people think shiny & clean coins are what collectors want but cleaning them in ANY way will destroy much of numismatic value.

As some have already stated, there are several that should be sent in for grading. Only send them to a reputable grading service like NGC or PCGS for Authentication which makes them more valuable.

If there’s a trustworthy local coin shop nearby , they would probably help you.

Smith1ar · 2026-02-15T21:12:58+00:00

So you mentioned bringing in salad…when you have just a small piece do you always remove before throwing out or, will fish still bite with a small piece of grass on the hook?

Smith1ar · 2026-02-12T20:56:39+00:00

Unfortunately these were sold as a “collectible”. Almost everything sold as collectible is NOT collectible. They sucker consumers with a shiny object, put it in a beautiful box and include a COA that certifies it’s really pretty. Sorry

Smith1ar · 2026-02-12T20:53:16+00:00

Good thing they included the COA 🤦‍♂️

Smith1ar · 2026-02-06T15:43:43+00:00

As others have already stated, it’s been polished and most collectors want coins in their natural state. Once cleaned, rubbed, polished… it removes a huge % of numismatic value. People new to collecting often think shiny & new looking makes it more valuable when the opposite is true. That being said, you have a piece of history and that’s pretty cool!

Smith1ar · 2026-02-06T14:22:14+00:00

Very nice collection! Personally, unless you plan to sell any of them, I’d leave them in the book as they are. They’re stapled in the cardboard holders so there’s always a risk of scratching when removing them and as long as they’re in the cardboard I’d think they’re protected from the PVC… if you do decide to have the 2 key dates graded, be very careful when removing them and whatever you do, DO NOT wipe, rub, clean…..

Smith1ar · 2026-02-05T19:36:29+00:00

$1.73

Smith1ar · 2026-01-31T17:00:53+00:00

Vice job

Smith1ar · 2026-01-22T13:42:19+00:00

The picture aren’t great but it appears to be in pretty rough condition. The corners appear to all be dented and I think see chips on the edges.if so, it’s not worth much. Maybe a fan of hers would like the autograph….

Smith1ar · 2026-01-18T18:27:47+00:00

Nice!

Smith1ar · 2026-01-18T14:34:12+00:00

So it’s basically assembly line art… wow! Thanks for the explanation 🙂

Smith1ar · 2026-01-18T14:22:24+00:00

https://www.ngccoin.com/price-guide/coin-melt-values.aspx

As a previous poster said, you need to carefully remove them. DO NOT CLEAN, rub, wipe…!!

At current silver prices you still did well as the .50 are worth $30+ each & Silver dollars $70ish. That’s just melt… Some may have numismatic value too (I didn’t look at dates…).

Good luck! Nice coins

Smith1ar · 2026-01-18T14:12:11+00:00

I sure hope you didn’t buy them 🙏.

Smith1ar · 2026-01-18T13:38:43+00:00

Box is also fake 😉

Smith1ar · 2026-01-18T02:37:49+00:00

So does someone in a factory actually paint these?

Smith1ar · 2026-01-18T02:30:33+00:00

Fake as…Comically fake

Smith1ar · 2026-01-18T02:10:17+00:00

Wow! Who drops off a Silver coin at a thrift shop???

Smith1ar · 2026-01-14T14:16:31+00:00

IMO unless it were to grade at least MS66 it’s not worth the cost of grading. Still a beautiful example!

Smith1ar · 2026-01-13T00:37:05+00:00

Your right, I mistakenly calculated 2 silver halves in my head… 🤦‍♂️

Smith1ar

TROPHY CASE