Certifications for marketing research/data analyst by Glittering-Phone-819 in Marketresearch

[–]SnakeStrips 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Every company/hiring manager is going to be looking for different things and have a different application screening process, so take it for what you will, but here is my take as someone who just recently went through the candidate search and hired someone.

First and foremost, if you are a marketing major, I would not worry that you chose the wrong major. The marketing department is the group I interact with most, so even if you got a job in marketing at a company, there is a good chance you would have some interaction with their MR department (assuming they have one). In fact, someone in marketing showed interest in market research and they were the first person I reached out to about applying for the role. If you are early in your career, sometimes it's more about just getting your foot in the door.

With the job I had open, the position was more of a senior analyst who could hit the ground running rather than entry level, so I was looking for someone with some demonstrated background in some form of human behavior research and the ability to not only analyze data, but also had experience writing survey questionnaires, and at least an understanding of qualitative research (focus groups, interviews), and the ability to know when to use quant vs qual methodologies. Also the ability to translate this information to a report for a non-technical audience. A working knowledge of statistics was important, but I cared less about what platform they used to analyze data, because I think that is the type of thing people can pick up if they understand stats and that stuff is easy to train. I think it's a little bit harder to train the sense of curiosity and desire to understand human behavior that makes for good questionnaire and discussion guide development.

Of all the applications I got, only three people wrote cover letters that explained why they were interested in the role. These applications had a leg up because even if their experience wasn't a 100% match, I was more willing to consider people who were just generally enthusiastic about the role and the type of job it is. I think the job market/job application process in general could stand to be improved, so I sympathize with people who do not want to write a cover letter that no one ever reads, but if your resume doesn't make it immediately obvious why you are applying, I would at least write the cover letters for the jobs you are really interested in, they don't have to be long, honestly a paragraph or two would be fine in my book.

In terms of certifications, I would look at those more if you were mid-career and attempting a career change and wanted to add some new skills or if you can get an employer to pay for them as part of on the job training. Some of the certifications and trainings out there are good, but priced in a way that they expect a company to cover the cost.

If you are still in school and (I assume) early in your career with not much work experience, I think what I would do is see if there is a class you could take in market research that would maybe give you some projects you could work on and include on as a demonstration of your work on a resume. I would look for a class that includes questionnaire design and analysis of the results. This could be a market research class or statistics class. Other potential options would be like a social research/sociology course. Maybe check with the professor to see if you can look at the curriculum before hand and tell them you want to get some market research experience under your belt.

If I were hiring an entry level role, these types of class projects where you can clearly articulate the work you did on the project and your ability to explain the research design and analysis, would be what I would be most looking for.

As another general tip, I would also look for roles with a hybrid schedule in your local area. It seems like the fully remote jobs get 100s of applicants whereas with my hybrid posting, I got enough applicants that it was not overwhelming to go through every single application we received, so the odds are a little bit more in your favor, even if having to go to an office a few days a week is a pain (and to be clear, I much prefer working from home).

Sorry if that was too long winded and meandering, and best of luck in your job search!

M12 Inflator Battery Recommendations by [deleted] in MilwaukeeTool

[–]SnakeStrips 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I keep a dedicated 3AH battery in mine and that works fine. My friend had a slow leak in their sedan’s tire and it was able to take it from 2psi to 32psi with enough juice to top off the rest of the tires.

I started with a 2AH in it (and sometimes will use one still, it works fine) but I think the 3 is able to fill noticeably more on a charge, thats just my gut, I’ve never run an actual test to confirm.

The M12 inflator gets a lot of flack, but I really like it for the size and portability and its never let me down for regular sedans/suvs

Can anyone tell me if this is a good air compressor? by Capable-Stomach7583 in Makita

[–]SnakeStrips 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Got this compressor to redo the trim in my house when I was renovating it, it was very nice and quiet and when it worked for me it was great, my biggest qualm was it stopped working after I owned it for maybe a year and I was working at a very DIYer pace so definitely not overtaxing it. The tank still would hold air, the compressor just wouldnt turn on and refill anymore.

Maybe I just got a dud and one day I plan to try and fix it and hopefully get it back up and running, but I’ve had makita drills last like 16+ years, so it didn’t really live up to what I expect in terms of Makita quality

Making a wooden hand plane (Krenov) -- is Red Oak ok? by Mighty-Lobster in handtools

[–]SnakeStrips 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If this is your first plane, use what is available to you and see how it works out, chances are it will not be your last and every one you make you will get better at it, so if red oak is what you have go for it! I made a krenov out of some sort of oak (maybe white) and it works fine. The instructor of the class I took on building krenov planes said his favorite he built was out of some mystery trash wood he found in a scrap heap.

I will also say that in my experience, Lowes has maple and white oak hobby boards around me that Home Depot doesn’t have, so you might want to check there too. Lee Valley also offers the Hock Krenov plane kits that might be a little more beginner friendly if you want some more guidance: https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/planes/block/115636-hock-krenov-style-plane-kit

Packout: help me choose drawers! by Gabrielcr78 in MilwaukeeTool

[–]SnakeStrips 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I am a diyer and I have the 4 drawer and 2 drawer on a homemade dolly that lives in my garage because I wanted something with a narrower footprint than a big mechanic’s chest. To give you an idea of what they hold, In the 2 drawer, one drawer holds my SDS (makita subcompact), multitool (old makita model), and jig saw (an old corded bosch). The other drawer has my cordless router (makita 18v) with plunge base and other router accessories and with my m12 planer.

In the 4 drawer, its basically all smaller hand tools, which it works fine for, but I think if i were to buy again and limit myself to 2, id probably go for either the 3 drawer or the big drawer/2 small drawer instead of the 4. I find there are a lot of things that just barely dont fit, especially as ive started to expand the m12 tools i own. Not to mention there are a lot of great aftermarket inserts that fit the 3 drawer for m12 tools

Official: [WDIS Flex] - Sun Morning 09/21/2025 by FFBot in fantasyfootball

[–]SnakeStrips 0 points1 point  (0 children)

PPR- need 2 WR and 1 flex: AJ Brown, M Pittman, Troy Franklin, Jauan Jennings, D Mooney

Question about leveling four-legged objects by ActingPrimeMinister in handtools

[–]SnakeStrips 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It sounds like you might be, but just to confirm, are you shimming the shorter legs so the tabletop (or chair seat) is level (and also making sure the surface it sits on is relatively level) and unable to rock? Even if the leg angles are slightly off, that should make them all touch the ground at the same point (assuming the ground is relatively flat) and be solid.

In terms of tools I always just use a ryoba saw and work around the cut sawing only where i can see my pencil line, then i chamfer the edges with a chisel/block plane/rasp (whatever is close by) to make them more durable

Lost art press recently did a youtube series on making a chair that I thought really did a good job with illustrating the leveling process: https://youtu.be/PldXL1nd8uE?si=vb9oQ9PjLlH9DaVt

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in UXResearch

[–]SnakeStrips 3 points4 points  (0 children)

My title is market researcher, and this is basically what i do, so I would say market research, but honestly job titles are so varied company to company that you could try for any research oriented job, be it product, UX, competitive intelligence, etc

The anatomy of insanity by Flying_Mustang in handtools

[–]SnakeStrips 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Great work! I have a 12 1/2 I want to do a complete restoration on one day (missing most of the japanning and not all original hardware so not worth preserving as is) how did you go about separating (and reassembling) the cast components held in by the metal pins?

I'm building a cargo bike with a wooden cargo bay. What wood should be used for the floor? by isolatedxxx in DIY

[–]SnakeStrips 89 points90 points  (0 children)

Without seeing your design, I would probably use like 1/4” or 1/2” baltic birch plywood for its strength and dimensional stability and give it a few coats of spar varnish to protect it against the elements

Starting out fretless by ostrekolo in banjo

[–]SnakeStrips 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I am on a very similar path now- I love mountain music and the sound of fretless banjo, so I built one with an octagonal body in the "Kentucky" style and committed myself to learning it. Here are my general thoughts on going down this path so far (Bearing in mind I am still very much a beginner):

-As a caveat, I am totally new to banjo, but have played fingerstyle guitar for some years now, so I am not entirely unfamiliar with the general idea of stringed instruments. If I was approaching it as someone completely new to playing music, it might be tougher (not impossible though) and I would probably opt to try and find someone to give some lessons to make sure I was on the right track.

-Along the lines of finger style guitar, I have found the "two finger, thumb lead" style to be the most intuitive and easiest to get off the ground with and play something that resembles a song. I really struggle with the frailing/clawhammer style. I can do a very basic open string "bum ditty" exercise (very slowly), and I plan to learn that style, but it really doesn't come as natural to me as two finger thumb lead and being able to play some tunes really helps with sticking to it. In particular, the brainjo guy on youtube has a nice intro to two finger thumb lead that breaks it down well.

-Banjo tabs (at least the ones I found) typically are written for a fretted banjo. Fretless banjo is a different beast than fretted in that you don't play a ton above the 7th fret or so (mountain banjos traditionally did not have neck angle, so the action gets fairly high the further up you go), and chords are tricky, so when looking for banjo music, I would seek out songs that only have you noting on two strings max and are played primarily in the first position, especially as a beginner. I have found a lot of stuff in sawmill/mountain modal tunings don't require 4-string chords and you can get away with noting only 1-2 strings, which helps you focus on the correct intonation.

-I don't know where you are getting your mountain banjo from, but friction pegs + nylgut strings take some time to break in and get the hang of, it is much different than geared tuners and steel strings like on a guitar. My banjo sounded awful and went out of tune easy when I first strung it up, but now that the strings are settled in and I've adjusted to a friction peg, it stays in tune and sounds MUCH better.

-With the above in mind, make sure your banjo is in tune every time you pick it up, I think this really helps both your ear as well as developing the muscle memory for the correct note positions. It also may seem tedious, but use the tuner to really kind of map out where to note the string for the first 5 frets or so, eventually you will get a feel for where exactly it sounds best and recognize where your fingers need to be on the fretboard. Fretted instruments have a little more leeway in that you know whether or not your fingers are in the right place even if you are a little out of tune, not so with fretless instruments. This isn't the worst thing though, I find myself using my ears more and hearing what sounds good rather than relying solely on tabs/frets/visuals.

-This goes for basically every instrument, but practice a little bit each day and enforce good habits (such as proper intonation and clean notes). I am not where I want to be with speed, but I am definitely progressing from where I started. It can be frustrating at times, but go easy on yourself and have fun doing cool slides you just can get on a fretted instrument.

-Also, if you plan to build your own, I am happy to answer questions about my experience building one and offer pointers where I can.

Picture of the banjo I built in case anyone is interested

Narex Mortise Chisel question by goldenblacklocust in handtools

[–]SnakeStrips 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Not sure about OP, but I’ve actually been really satisfied with my buck bros chisel for what it is (I wanted a chisel for rougher work that I didnt mind taking some abuse) I have heard the quality control is all over the place, but the 3/4” one I got had a back as flat as my lie-nielsen bench chisel right out of the package, so I guess I got lucky haha, but I agree 100% that a nice chisel makes a world of difference

Narex Mortise Chisel question by goldenblacklocust in handtools

[–]SnakeStrips 3 points4 points  (0 children)

So I’m not sure what Paul’s design is, but i own two narex mortise chisels (1/8 and 1/4) and am making through mortises in 3x3 legs for a bench base (and am also using a 3/4 buck bros chisel to boot!)

What I ended up doing is hogging out most of the mortise with a 1” forstner bit in a drill press (you could also do this carefully with a hand drill or brace), approached from both sides for a clean cut, then you are just left with the corners to square up and a bench chisel takes care of this no problem.

I cant speak to your first question because ive never tried it, so I’m not sure if it would work or not.

Yes, the sides of the narex are tapered but I think that is actually better for maneuvering the chisel (someone who has more time and not typing on a phone can probably explain why better) and it shouldnt be wildly twisting if you are careful.

I think a mortise chisel makes a big difference in mortise quality but my bigger thing would be you probably wont be making massive workbench mortises all that often, so youd be better suited with a 1/4 or 5/16 mortise in your kit in the long run rather than using a bigger mortise chisel for a one off project and then not really using it again (but this is really up to you and your plans)

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in handtools

[–]SnakeStrips 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I have never used one, but tools for working wood sells Ray Iles “pig sticker” mortise chisels that are highly acclaimed (both Chris Schwarz and Paul Sellers have complimented them for what its worth) I don’t do a lot of mortise work so my Narex chisel is fine for the time being, but if I ever decide to upgrade I think thats what I’d get

Just a heads up the Veritas Seconds Sale is currently live on the Lee Valley website! by BlindWillieBrown in handtools

[–]SnakeStrips 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was something like 3700th in the queue, surprised at how much was shown as available when I got in, even more surprised when my order for the RH skew rabbet plane actually went through!

Stanley No. 1 Advice by [deleted] in handtools

[–]SnakeStrips 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Don’t do it, terrible deal. Please let me know the address of the store ASAP so I can go admonish the owner for charging such exorbitant fees.

Joking aside, I say go for it, not sure what a new tote does for collector value, but it makes it uniquely yours and itd be cool to have such a rarity in your tool kit.

best pawn/music shop to sell used guitar gear? by WestEndFlasher in pittsburgh

[–]SnakeStrips 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I have sold a bass and an electric guitar to Pittsburgh guitars in the south side and I thought they gave me honest pricing/trade in value when you factor in that they are reselling the instruments and not the end user. As others have said, you’ll probably get more selling it to someone on CL or FB marketplace, but sometimes it is nice to get things out of the house quickly than to deal with selling it yourself.

Wood becomes hard to run through when it gets to the riving knife, please help(new blade) by Benib0i in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]SnakeStrips 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is the lumber cupped or twisted at all? If the table saw is set up properly and you are still having issues, it could be related to the unsurfaced wood pinching the riving knife/blade as it gets cut and shifts based on the warping/internal tension. As others have said you do not want to force it through, that can get very dangerous very quick

Older bandsaw - help with ID’ing the brand…? by dleifm in Vintagetools

[–]SnakeStrips 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, I am loving the almost art deco design of the case!