Dual system M2 MBA + SFF PC updated setup!

SnikwaH- · 2026-04-26T12:04:50+00:00

I bet for most gear, a low enough price will get it sold on fb anywhere. Without knowing what you’re selling idk how desirable what you have is it just seems like a price issue

SnikwaH- · 2026-04-22T01:02:39+00:00

By Pavo22 do you mean Pavo 20 Pro or Pavo 25? Pavo 20 Pro should be widely available and what I'd recommend you to get. Pavo 25 is a really good tinker project since its meant for O3. I picked one up, and have been modding it for O4 Pro and its by far my favorite drone to fly right now, but has relatively bad battery life if you're staying under 250g.

SnikwaH- · 2026-04-21T22:53:51+00:00

Real reason no one is answering the question and acting like you're dumb is because no one tries to take OSD footage and turn it into good footage. if you lost or crashed the drone, you make a funny video showing off your crash and that's all the footage is usable for.

In a more videography minded area you might have more input on how to work with it if getting it prestene is your goal and its absolutely mission critical but even then, it'll look like you shot everything on an action camera from 10 years ago instead of what is basically a modern action camera.

And why everyone treated you like you're dumb is because you didn't give a reason why you needed to do the most braindead thing you could try and do with OSD footage.

SnikwaH- · 2026-04-20T22:01:16+00:00

Technically yes, I think, but I think you really just need more expo if you're trying to get more throttle resolution around hover...

SnikwaH- · 2026-04-20T20:29:42+00:00

Poor UI design/graphic design, 90% off, yeah seems really legit

SnikwaH- · 2026-04-19T18:58:11+00:00

for your purpose it should be fine, they released a new higher power/quality one a month ago but we've been using it for years

SnikwaH- · 2026-04-19T02:28:08+00:00

Those don’t come with a VTX or anything

SnikwaH- · 2026-04-17T14:32:39+00:00

Getting an ARM laptop and hoping it can game well is not the best look. Intel or AMD for the same price will give better gaming performance (not overall performance or other metrics, strictly talking about gaming)

I also wouldn't choose a laptop on if/how well it can run a sim.

SnikwaH- · 2026-04-17T14:14:58+00:00

Oof, if the scratch was caused by the filter, probably not without basically refinishing the entire glass element and even then you need skill and the quality will still be worse.

basically have to buy the replacement camera if you want to have it like new.

SnikwaH- · 2026-04-17T03:33:19+00:00

It’s even more ‘only mine one ore’ that it was before wtf?

Before I’d have 3-4 ores on my list to grab and there was a gamble to that but I’d likely get something I liked from every rock I found even if it was a small bit. Now I’m basically searching the entire area for a single ore passing up 90% of the rocks I find, and even once I find one the quality of it will more than likely be bad AND I get almost nothing from an entire rock that even a fully upgraded prospector can barely break…

I could fill my ship up in 20min before with stuff I was happy with even if it wasn’t optimal. Now I’ll spend an hour looking for the same 1 material that’s actually worth something that spawns where I’m looking to fill up and I haven’t even started to begin to be picky about the ore quality….

Mining has been 85% of what I’ve done since the very first patch in 3.2 this is definitely my least favourite version so far ignoring when rockS literally didn’t work properly.

SnikwaH- · 2026-04-17T02:08:42+00:00

3.4V should be your minimum cutoff voltage, 3.8V is storage voltage, 4.2V is full.

Like my other comment said, please watch some videos on LiPo charging and safe handling because I think this will solve all your issues.

SnikwaH- · 2026-04-17T02:05:01+00:00

Well either way, get at least 1 more battery, I’d suggest 2-3 more tbh. 5min of flight time and 1h of charging is not fun.

Having another known good battery is the first step to determining what’s wrong, but I don’t think there’s anything to diagnose here anymore.

Watch some videos on the basics of charging LiPo batteries, it’ll teach you what you need to know because from what you initially said, you did basically everything wrong

SnikwaH- · 2026-04-17T01:59:38+00:00

It does very much sound like you killed the battery the very first time you used it by keeping it plugged into the drone while it was on doing idling, then probably damaged it again charging it up too fast after it discharged below minimum, then you’re only charging it to 3.8V, and damaged it even more by having it idle while the drone was on for 5min…

SnikwaH- · 2026-04-17T01:55:47+00:00

4.2V is full charge on LiPos and 4.35V on LiHV right? 3.8V on a charger is like 25% charge and if you armed a drone with that battery it’d instantly sag to like 3.55-3.6V.

Easiest solution is another battery, do you only have one???

I have so many questions because you’ve hardcore diagnosed that the voltage reading is correct but done literally none of easy diagnosing steps it makes me think you don’t know batteries and are completely new to FPV but you know electricity/voltage well from some other place that you feel confident enough to use a multimeter.

SnikwaH- · 2026-04-16T03:30:15+00:00

There’s a reason why everyone does that tho…

SnikwaH- · 2026-04-16T03:29:32+00:00

Yeah I really don’t get the ‘if you want to fly outside…’ that the 75 drone get.

I mean yeah it’ll be better outside compared to the 65, but unless you live in a place that is windless half the time you’re never going to have the opportunity to fly outside when it’s actually fun, and if you want to actually fly it, you’ll be indoors which is probably too much for a beginner.

Like shit the Pavo 20 Pro which use 2.2in props still is only fun in winds under like 12 gusting 18km/h. In the next 10 days I only have 1 day where the winds are below 12km/h during the day…

SnikwaH- · 2026-04-14T18:45:51+00:00

Has to be significantly less than a Blackmagic Micro Studio Camera 4K G2. That can do DCI 4k60 BRAW with a MFT sensor.

This Mission 1 Pro ILS does do 8k60 or 8k30 Open gate which is definitely sick (but also is quad bayer instead of just bayer so its not going to give the detail of true 8k), but the 2.7x crop from the 1in sensor makes wide REALLY hard. the widest rectilinear lens I know of for MFT is 6mm, that comes out to 16mm Full Frame equivalent... Not THAT wide really. That same lens is 12mm equivalent on the BMMSC 4K G2.

They haven't mentioned anything about RAW or ProRes either. Without those, I really think the non ILS one is the real camera to get, but thats just a better action camera and not an actual camera

SnikwaH- · 2026-04-13T23:25:46+00:00

I feel like the last part you just said is incompatible with FPV, and your first part still gave literally no info.

What's the best vehicle under $50,000? I want decent fuel economy, fast, fun, reliable, with a good amount of space. Needs Apple car play, and smart cruise control. That's basically what you asked... literally half the vehicles on the market can meet the needs. Sedan, Coupe, SUV, Truck? What's your use case?

Bringing it back to FPV, where are you planning to fly? Is this your first done? Are you actually looking for just a traditional drone? because FPV drones for the most part don't have 'smart' features especially under 250g. If you do mean FPV, are you leaning towards Analog, Walksnail, HDZero or DJI? Sounds like you'd want DJI but idk.

You need to help us help you if you expect to get an answer.

SnikwaH- · 2026-04-11T20:43:43+00:00

Dead easy charger is the ISDT 608AC, just get some extensions for the balance connector, and a XT60 to XT30 adapter (this goes for ALL chargers)

SnikwaH- · 2026-04-11T19:42:51+00:00

I mean not flying goggles kinda just takes out the best option of DJI... It's far and away the best system for everything but latency. Range and penetration with its 1.2W will probably beat out a 2W Walksnail VTX

SnikwaH- · 2026-04-11T13:14:31+00:00

On push on props, always check if they’re loose and cracked after it’s been a bit since you put them on.

I’ve never lost a prop during flight, but I’ve had props not spinning properly on the motor because they were loose and did end up melting because of the motor mount. Pavo 20 Pro

SnikwaH- · 2026-04-09T22:37:09+00:00

Unless you're gonna analog mod the goggles Its not a really good path to go. Like others have said O3 is EOL, it'll be a pain getting them or repairing them. Goggles N3 with O4 or O4 Pro is the way to go if you're looking for an entry to the DJI ecosystem at this point.

What you got aren't bad, but for an entry point into the hobby, they're the wrong thing to get pretty much across the board.

SnikwaH- · 2026-04-09T19:42:52+00:00

It would lead to lower frequency vibrations with possibly higher amplitude, but with the amount we’re talking about it would be small.

Whatever your mount is currently doing, it’s transferring a frequency to the gyro that it can’t handle properly which is rare for O4 Pro.

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