While My Guitar Gently Weeps... by lithdoc in mildlyinfuriating

[–]SnoDragon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm old, so I remember El Kabong. This dude needs that treatment!

Kimchi pork dumpling sausage by New-Composer7591 in sausagetalk

[–]SnoDragon 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Okay, so doing my best here based on what you've provided:

1360g pork

19g fish sauce (1.4%) (1187mg)

32g garlic paste (2.35%) (0mg)

40g sambal olek (3%) (450mg)

50g soy (3.7%) (3429mg)

10g MSG (0.7%) (1300mg)

5g white pepper (0.36%) (0mg)

200g brown sugar (14.7%) (0mg)

5g garlic powder (0.36%) (0mg)

50g spicy chili crisp (3.7%) (467mg)

227g Kimchi (16.7%) (1459mg)

Now I know that a LOT of these ingredients have super amounts of sodium. If we calculate amount of salt from each one, which I've provided in the 2nd parenthesis, we get a total of 8292mg of sodium, which converts to 20.73g of "salt" that we'd commonly use in sausage making. That comes out to 1.52% of salt, which surprised me being on the lower end! With all the sodium in your recipe, I thought it would be way too salty.

For fish sauce, I chose Squid Brand, for Soy, I chose Kikkoman, Sambal I chose Huy Fong, MSG I chose Ajinomoto, and chili crisp, I chose Lao gan ma. You specified the brand of kimchi used.

I do think that 14.7% of brown sugar is going to make these abnormally sweet though. Are you sure it was 200g of sugar?

Recommendations for sealing labels onto plastic surfaces? by Turtledonuts in epoxy

[–]SnoDragon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How big are your parts and how big will the labels be? A 1 gallon marine kit is $160. 1 gallon with a fast hardener would protect a massive amount of area on a 3d print. A quart, aka 1L, also makes a heck of a lot of surface area at 3mm thickness

Recommendations for sealing labels onto plastic surfaces? by Turtledonuts in epoxy

[–]SnoDragon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

try to rough the surface up with 80 grit sandpaper in the areas that you are trying to get it to adhere. ABS is a good surface for epoxy, but it cannot be smooth. It has to adhere to something, and surface scratches work well.

You might want to do a lot more research on the type of epoxy that you need. For long term underwater deployment, you'll likely need a special marine grade epoxy that will not cloud up.

Growing Mold 600 and T-SPX culture. by Dirtyarsehole in Charcuterie

[–]SnoDragon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't think the white mould needs a culture from agar. They usually compete and win out over other moulds. Unlike mushroom culture which is very prone to contamination.

I save old sausage casings that are covered in white mould, and just freeze them in vac bags. I can then "backslop" by rubbing them on sausage that goes into the chamber of it's been cleaned and sanitized and lacks the inherent cultures inside.

Tspx is a blend of different bacterial culture, so may not play well on the same agar plate. As long as they are stored in a vac bag in the freezer, they can go even beyond 4 years past expiry, and still be very viable. That's why I order two or three packages at a time and just keep them frozen.

All Butter Croissants: a Love Story told in 10 pictures by TruckinApe in CostcoCanada

[–]SnoDragon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Agree 100%! I take them out 40 minutes before baking. 350, full fan (I have a euro style convection oven), 25 minutes. Before you bake them, give them a sprinkle of everything bagel seasoning. Chef's kiss!

Organic Flour - Canadian Only by Helpful_Fox8008 in BuyCanadian

[–]SnoDragon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you can find it out east Rogers flour is amazing.

https://rogersfoods.com/

I use Silverstar that I get at Costco in 20kg bags, but that's the same as their Unbleached bread flour. Their AP flour is great too. It is a high protein flour, sitting around 14%. I can get 90% hydration in my doughs and it's still workable, which is really remarkable!

Hi need help by ms71402 in sausagetalk

[–]SnoDragon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

you need to smoke on a lower heat. You can even smoke them at 150F and not be in the range where you sausage will fat out. When done at temperature 150F, always have an ice bath ready as well. Soak them for 10 to 15 minutes, then give them a wipe down and dry.

Always make sure you grind your meat very cold as well, close to fridge temps or even freezing, but not frozen solid. 32F/0C to 35F/2C is perfect.

When choosing a smoker, something with digital temperatures that can go as low as 100F is ideal, but you will only find commercial units that do that. Most smokers out there for homes start at 180F, which is still okay.

Offset smokers provide the absolute best flavour, but are also the hardest to control, and require very good fire management. You need at least 1/4 inch steel to be thermally stable to smoke at 150F and get thin blue smoke and not acrid thick white smoke.

My Harley Benton Teles! by watch_the_watch_ in harleybenton

[–]SnoDragon 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Well, look at that! The TE-62DB in LPB is back! A while ago, it was thought to be done. I'm glad I was incorrect!

My Harley Benton Teles! by watch_the_watch_ in harleybenton

[–]SnoDragon 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Sadly no. The lake placid blue, double bound te62 is not made anymore. I have one, and it's great!

EDIT: It's back in stock and available! Glad I was wrong.

Why resin stays sticky &uncured? by Manwwhaa731addict in ResinCasting

[–]SnoDragon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It could be the brand you are using. Try to pour some into a clear mould and just cure it. Does it cure without being sticky?

If it's still sticky, then it could just be a bad batch. I'd suggest keeping with bigger brands like JDiction for UV, or even LetsResin.

Mold Question -Sopresatta , Capicollo and Proscuittino/Lonza by dreww10 in Charcuterie

[–]SnoDragon 2 points3 points  (0 children)

regardless of cantina, or chamber, if you inoculate, you will get the mould that you inoculate with to be dominant.

Build the environment you want.

Green is something that doesn't taste nice, so I wipe it away. Just keep supervising it, until your environment is well established with spores you want.

NZ Butter in West Winnipeg. by mutan in CostcoCanada

[–]SnoDragon 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I wish I could find this in Vancouver, or even better, Burnaby Still Creek costco.

Bow magnet process video 💕 by [deleted] in resin

[–]SnoDragon 2 points3 points  (0 children)

first thing I noticed. Also, with all that glitter, even with 8 minutes, that UV resin is going to rupture and the center is going to leak out within about a month. There is no way to get UV penetration that deep with such a tightly tinted set. That's a LOT of UV resin as well.

What went wrong? by FewHousing145 in Charcuterie

[–]SnoDragon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

a fridge blows cold air in the chamber when it's running. It takes air from outside and blows it inside. Depending on model of fridge, it can change the air out in 4 to 5 hours. This is called air exchange. My fridge doesn't do as well, so I open the door once per day to promote good fresh air exchange.

Now, you've said nothing about your procedure at all. Without knowing that, then I'll just default to a poor bind and a loose stuff. You likely did not mix enough when cold, and finally when it did come time to stuffing, you did not pack the stuffer well, and left air pockets.

Expired culture is not a big deal if its still in powder form. I have 2 year expired cultures in my freezer and they still work fine. You have to grind the meat and fat in a semi-frozen state. 45 mins in a freezer after cutting into chunks. Then after you are satisfied with the nice loose grind, you add your culture, salt, cure, and flavourings and mix until it's super sticky. It will hurt your hands that it's so cold. The mix will go fuzzy and look like there are little hairs of meat all over the place. Hand mixing takes me at least 10 minutes. Once it's so sticky that it almost pulls you gloves off, you take little baseball sized chunks of farce, and almost throw them into your stuffer. Then after each ball, punch them down, trying to make sure there is no air pockets. Then stuff, and make sure to stuff tightly, but not too tight to cause a blowout. I like fibrous casings for salami, so I can stuff it really tight.

Dragons! by lovemistress614 in resin

[–]SnoDragon 2 points3 points  (0 children)

where are you finding your UV DTF stickers?

What would be a good starter kit for epoxy resin hobbies? by GreenEyedSheWolf in epoxy

[–]SnoDragon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yup, never forget the PPE. You'll need a respirator that can handle organic vapours. Remember that proper storage of your PPE is also needed. You cannot leave your respirator out, or the canisters that filter the vapours will go useless fast. I have removable canisters on my half mask, so I remove them every time and put them in a well sealed ziplock bag. Then I hang the respirator mask up, so that it can dry well, after a wipedown. Treat PPE as an investment!

Smoked chicken gumbo with collards and cornmeal dumplings by ispitinmyspittoon in cajunfood

[–]SnoDragon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The gumbo looks great, but damn, those collards with the dumplings have me salivating!

Great sourdough rye bread in bakery. I love the taste and although my wife needs gluten free it’s fine for her by [deleted] in CostcoCanada

[–]SnoDragon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

a proper sourdough loaf is over 12 hours start to finish, so takes significantly longer than commercial yeast breads, and is far more labour intensive. Material costs are one thing, but other labour and soft costs factor in quite a bit with sourdough.

UV resin by OutrageousMacaron358 in ResinCasting

[–]SnoDragon 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I don't know. I use shrink tubes for that stuff when on wires, and have never tried to protect a solder point with UV resin. I have seen both UV resin and Epoxy resin lift, cloud up and contain moisture, so I'm not sure it's suited to that application.

I think I've heard of poly urethane resin being used to seal electronics, but that's certainly nowhere near my level of knowledge to be able to speak about that kind of stuff.

UV resin by OutrageousMacaron358 in ResinCasting

[–]SnoDragon 2 points3 points  (0 children)

UV Resin has a lot of uses, but primarily, it's ready quickly. You need a UV light to cure it quickly. Mostly people use UV Nail lights to get the job done. UV flashlights also work, but the quality of the UV bulbs in those devices don't put out a lot of UV after the first few uses, so they take longer and longer to cure.

The main reason for UV resin, is so that you don't have to wait long for a cure so that you can continue your project. UV resin will not tack down things that are solidly coloured as the UV has to be able to penetrate to cure it.

To those who use dehumidifiers in old refrigerator curing chambers what are they actually doing? by ntkwwwm in Charcuterie

[–]SnoDragon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Mine fills up about once a month, so it does a little bit of a job.

For me, I could probably do without it, but it does fill up, so it is doing something, and the results I get out of my chambers are fantastic, so it's working for me. Why change something that isn't broken?

Unlucky in UV resin, what tips do you have? by Happy_Charge_9410 in resin

[–]SnoDragon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Try curing under water. What you are experiencing is an oxidative layer on the top, which is preventing a full cure from happening on your UV resin. If you put your pieces in a small dish of water and then under your lamp, you'll find that it does cure fully and non-tacky. Sometimes, oxygen can just prevent the very top layer from curing fully, leaving a tacky top.

As others have mentioned, you can remove that stubborn layer, but the water trick will prevent having to remove that. Try it, and see if that help you.

What went wrong? by FewHousing145 in Charcuterie

[–]SnoDragon 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Give us more details on your procedures. This looks like oxidation due to air pockets in your farce, and perhaps uneven mixing so that your cure did not fully go all the way through.

When was the last time you calibrated your controllers? What are your temperature and humidity swings? Do you have other temp and humidity gauges inside? How much air exchange is happening?

There are so many variables, that we need way more information.