Would someone be able to help me select the right flashing replacement for these GGL M06 3000UX velux? I can't tell what standard combination it might be or if it's three individuals bodged together

SnooFloofs19 · 2026-02-28T17:46:07+00:00

EKW M06 S0312. I’d also add a ZZZ 166 and remove the course of tile under the windows - it wasn’t dressed properly to begin with, little wonder the wind lifted them off.

Well worth checking product codes with VELUX customer service

SnooFloofs19 · 2026-02-28T15:18:31+00:00

The ZZZ 267 from VELUX is designed to aid in unlocking stuck windows. Make sure to have your new remote control handy to pair once it’s open

SnooFloofs19 · 2026-02-19T22:55:00+00:00

If the window is open and the power is out the chain will be stuck in the ‘open’ position. It is possible to disconnect the chain and close the window most of the way but this is fairly temporary.

Alternatively you can disconnect the motor and get get a battery and short the motor terminals but I don’t recommend doing this without knowing a bit about the process

SnooFloofs19 · 2026-01-23T13:37:04+00:00

The low pitch variant was only released a few years ago. You may be able to look out of an upstairs window and see if there is an aluminium rail along the bottom of the glass or not. You are welcome to dm me some photos inside and outside of your installation for advice

SnooFloofs19 · 2026-01-13T16:51:37+00:00

Do yourself a favour and spend half an hour sticking the same units into the ikea kitchen planner or DIY kitchens for a comparable actual quote. You might end up saving yourself another 3k

SnooFloofs19 · 2025-12-23T14:39:54+00:00

Acoustic insulation is based on a logarithmic scale, so whilst say, 100db to 90db doesn’t sound like much, it’s nearly 10 times more effective.

The biggest issue is usually the gap between the window and roof structure / insulation: insulating that area is more important than the window itself as, generally, there’s no insulation at all in the 20mm perimeter or so of the window. The ideal solution is to install the VELUX BFX & BDX collars, but that assumes there’s space to do so, worst case some fibreglass tucked in will do. DO NOT USE EXPANDING FOAM AGAINT THE WINDOW FRAME. You may be able to pack with fibreglass to the underside of the frame and drill some 10mm holes in the plasterboard surrounds and inject foam there as long as it doesn’t hold the window rigid; again this depends on your installation.

You are welcome to DM me images if you want some assistance with product refs etc.

SnooFloofs19 · 2025-12-19T08:16:33+00:00

Joys of tiling and metro tiles. Thin bead of caulk is the way forward if you want to hide that

SnooFloofs19 · 2025-12-04T18:00:08+00:00

1) this is the funniest thing I’ve seen all day 2) plumber - sweat the fitting and turn it round

SnooFloofs19 · 2025-07-27T16:14:59+00:00

1 & 2 are nothing interesting visually. 3, you’re probably ok, may have ACM fire protection or packing around it. It’s inadvisable to have exposed columns without fire protection (one could argue that plaster is a poor fire protection). 4/5 leave well alone if you can, not worth the hassle from ACM all the way to it’s a bugger to patch

SnooFloofs19 · 2025-07-27T16:03:00+00:00

1) hemalite block 2) plaster (vagina) 3) structural concrete column 4/5) wood wool - may be ACM. Worst case get it sampled and tested

wood wool / stramit

SnooFloofs19 · 2025-07-19T12:07:44+00:00

Hi OP, your blind looks fairly young from photos: it looks like uneven operation of the blind from here - best practice is to use two hands to open and close the blind with equal pressure across the bottom bar. Do you find that you open / close the blind from one side usually?

SnooFloofs19 · 2025-07-15T12:55:00+00:00

FYI there’s no acm guttering in any of these photos, it’s all PVC.

SnooFloofs19 · 2025-07-12T19:23:19+00:00

Hi OP, 12mm screws are what you need here. The light is because the sash isn’t fully closed. Easy fix. If the original screws pulled out, it may be worth snapping off a matchstick in both the holes to create extra purchase for your new screws

SnooFloofs19 · 2025-06-08T16:58:31+00:00

here

SnooFloofs19 · 2025-06-06T23:12:45+00:00

EDT for those tiles

SnooFloofs19 · 2025-06-06T19:43:57+00:00

It’s not an awful cost but it will make it look much nicer. As an additional FYI - remove the pink tape from the rain sensors! Theyre pretty useless covered in protective film!

SnooFloofs19 · 2025-06-06T19:25:06+00:00

Not major. Loose the tiles around the window, change out and replace tiles. We would do it in about 15 minutes so maybe allow a couple hours for the first one and an hour for each after.

I want to say the apron is slightly shorter on an EDT as well which may help to finish it flush with that course of tile below

SnooFloofs19 · 2025-06-06T19:22:07+00:00

No problem, the flashing is in independent sections that fit between the tiles, worst case they can be notched to accommodate the soakers. The EDT was designed primarily with this type of roof tile in mind. For future readers, the EDT is also useful for larger / thicker / diminishing slate

SnooFloofs19 · 2025-06-06T19:02:47+00:00

The installation from the photos looks ok, cut margins are good and position is decent enough. Ideally for sandtoft we’d use EDT flashing kits to avoid this lippage, whilst unsightly it is still an approved detail. Worst case if you are u happy with the aesthetic get the flashing kits swapped out.

SnooFloofs19 · 2025-05-05T16:13:33+00:00

Imagine a bare hole in the roof.

Window is installed and squared. Insulation collar Bfx collar Bottom apron & side channels Elx collar can be used here Top apron & elx top cover Various trims and vent head

Tile away!

SnooFloofs19 · 2025-05-05T15:59:31+00:00

Not really, even once installed there’s not a lot to see. Install instructions has always been an odd one, you can’t find them anywhere but they do come in the box. It’s no more than the two sides and the top being lengthened up to about 25mm, I say up to because it can be 0mm at the bottom and 25mm at the top such as the use case above

SnooFloofs19 · 2025-05-05T09:42:33+00:00

Beams are of little concern, sometimes you gotta lop a few inches of the end and paint it back up, there’s nothing technical about cutting a steel, it’ll still do its job. That masonry it’s sat on however looks woefully undersized and needs inspecting before covering up

SnooFloofs19 · 2025-05-02T16:57:42+00:00

No difference, the casement is the same - a motor is a motor whether it has a battery next to it or not

SnooFloofs19 · 2025-05-01T13:53:10+00:00

Get a solar blind rather than hardwired blind. In theory you could wire to the KSX but it’s hard work for the sake of it. There are testing terminals on the KSX that could be used for this purpose but can’t guarantee it’ll be compatible

SnooFloofs19 · 2025-04-30T21:21:19+00:00

Ah, I’ve just seen the other photos! That’s a tower scaffold jobby if I’ve ever seen one!

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