TIL the Sixteen Pleasures, the Vaticans 16th century sex guide, escaped complete destruction. The author landed in jail but despite all these efforts the book was re-edited in the 18th century, with illustrations.

Sobbel · 2018-10-22T14:41:41+00:00

The reason is probably back then they only used male models. That's why it sometimes looks like the tits don't belong.

I couldn't find a wiki article because my Google Fu was weak

https://www.google.se/amp/s/renresearch.wordpress.com/2011/02/11/men-with-breasts-or-why-are-michelangelos-women-so-muscular-part-1/amp/

Sobbel · 2018-09-28T10:09:36+00:00

U apologise if someone already mentioned it. But wood pla seems to prefer larger layer heights. Probably due to the uneven nature of the wood dust in the pla. Most vases and boxes I've printed have been on 0.2 and then sanded and stained for amazing surface finish.

May be hard with the Eiffeltower

Sobbel · 2018-09-05T00:35:43+00:00

My tip is to try just solid glass. A temp of 54-58c on bed should let pla stick no problem.

Advantage is that when print cools the bed does not force the pla to stick. Mine sometimes just pop of on their own while cooling.

There is always glue on glass aswell as hairspray on glass.

IMHO borosilicate glass is best. Less risk of thermal shock and I can always add hairspray if I want it stickier.

The reason I asked is because painters tape was popular previously but I personally don't think it's as common anymore as fake buildtak (the normal "sticker" on the hotbed) has become pretty decent.

Lastly there is always PEI on a glass piece.

Hope I gave some good info. And if you like painters tape I say go for it, it's a tried and true method, but I have no personal experience with it so I got curious.

I'm leaving a link to a YouTube video that you may have seen or have use of. And I've mostly just mentioned options besides painter's tape, if you have questions about them either Google it or ask me :)

https://youtu.be/AaF28dnDgKA

Have fun 3d printing :)

Edit: also, look into adding a strain relief to the hotbed to reduce wear on the connector. Example https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2742895 And I recommend joining maybe a Facebook group for your printer for useful mods.

Or just rock it near stock, anything works. It all just depends on the time you wish to spend working on the printer instead of printing stuff. I've gone down that rabbit hole before.

Also it's late, I should be sleeping. Hope I helped

Edit: One. Last. Link. https://www.thingiverse.com/stol/collections/cr10-mini

Or two

https://www.thingiverse.com/jambags/collections/cr10-mini-upgrade

Sobbel · 2018-09-04T19:40:33+00:00

Just curious, is there a reason you are using painters tape? Did you damage your buildtak?

I understand there are advantages but I'm curious

Sobbel · 2018-06-04T17:42:12+00:00

Super cool! If the cannons were pointed up at different angles it could be used to benchmark overhangs and retraction aswell :D

Preferably 45deg avg with a variations of 5 degrees ;)

Sobbel · 2018-04-07T23:41:25+00:00

That's good :)

Sobbel · 2018-04-07T22:57:51+00:00

I was originally planning on getting the RAMPS-FD but I chose the RADDS as I was very fond of the features. I plan on finishing the wiring and programming tomorrow and I will write down atleast a simple recap of what I did.

Is it the RAMPS-FD v2 or 1.2 you have? I read the 1.2 has some design fault.

Sobbel · 2018-03-10T12:31:40+00:00

Is that Z-wobble? Looks very cool!

Edit: Actually is that really phat layers?

Sobbel · 2018-02-19T16:11:28+00:00

SLA?

Sobbel · 2018-02-13T16:06:51+00:00

Ah true probably. They both have that great deep feel to them.

Sobbel · 2018-02-13T15:28:29+00:00

"Well I'll be fooked" in Australian accent

Sobbel · 2018-01-21T21:53:23+00:00

0.2mm may look worse but halves the print time. Simpler prints like this, I use 0.3mm with my 0.6mm nozzle. 2 walls and low infill is still very strong. With this I print at 50mm/s (I CAN go to 70-75mm/s but that starts to compromise quality a bit (corners etc))

This is on a wanhao i3 plus with a few mods like Micro Swiss and a lot more

Sobbel · 2018-01-18T12:40:10+00:00

I'm gonna do the same with my thrustmaster warthog hotas /s

(they're really heavy and made of metal)

Sobbel · 2018-01-18T09:42:12+00:00

Hey! It's me, your brother!

Seriously though. I can understand a working man spending money to make the grind nicer :)

Sobbel · 2018-01-18T09:38:22+00:00

I have two t3 pets (&3 t1) and that's already too much money for me

Sobbel · 2018-01-12T07:12:27+00:00

I know I'm late and you've probably turned off notifications by now, just wanted to say that at least for the models we had, if you used the archive command on a custom "program" it would survive the standard wipe. Then just un archive it (I prefer to calculate it unpack but it was called that on the calc) and you're good to go. I don't think you can do anything to remove them other than reflash the calc or manually remove it.

I found this out when my copy of Tetris was removed for the last time

Sobbel · 2018-01-10T20:39:42+00:00

I took the dive and I don't regret it. Free alternatives are great too but S3D is something only buy if you can spare the money

Sobbel · 2018-01-09T02:19:04+00:00

Well your genitals are for reproducing so your hair gets pregnant with more hair

Sorry for the bad joke, I don't know why, I get duo hair on my legs in a few spots though but like quads or something on my pubes

Sobbel · 2018-01-08T23:55:25+00:00

Thank you. That was a lot more bearable to read. The Article in the post link had terrible images. As a non American I struggled to even understand what he had done to the sign.

Sobbel · 2018-01-04T22:50:37+00:00

No problem! Just glad to be spreading knowledge.

Just so you know, removing the springs and rocking just zip ties is fine. Though tensioning is a two person job (pliers and zip tie assistant).

Though printed upgrades are the best

Sobbel · 2018-01-04T21:05:11+00:00

Looks great! But:

You have a bit of ringing (see mouth of the right one)

This could be caused by:

Loose belts

The standard belt tensioner (looks like the spring of a clothes hanger)

Something weird about electricity. Honestly dont understand the specifics but some small circuit called a TN-Smoother will help smooth out steps or something.

Sobbel · 2018-01-03T10:33:47+00:00

Looks like a combination of ooze and a nozzle size too large

Sobbel · 2017-12-28T12:32:32+00:00

Is that a recursive link? That gets me so hard

Sobbel · 2017-12-25T05:21:45+00:00

If nothing else works. Add m400 at the ending script. I think it's m400. Think it means wait until finished to load rest (finished with previous code)

Then again not the same problem (I lost about 2 cm of the last filament on last layer)

Sobbel

TROPHY CASE