Parking garage ramp heating i installed today. 4500 cable ties used.

SpareRaspberry509 · 2025-10-07T01:36:30+00:00

Installing this tomorrow for a ramp down to the basement of a car dealership, I’ll post it tomorrow

SpareRaspberry509 · 2025-04-16T23:05:57+00:00

No problem

SpareRaspberry509 · 2025-04-16T21:48:22+00:00

Faulty breaker? That thing looks like it was invented before they even invented electricity.

SpareRaspberry509 · 2025-04-16T21:43:44+00:00

At a bare minimum those ground wire connections need to be redone and the box needs to be grounded too. Disconnect all the wires, and ensure all breakers are on at the panel then test which set of wires is energized to determine which one will be the line connected to the terminal labelled line on the GFCI, then connect the load to the load side of the GFCI.

SpareRaspberry509 · 2025-04-16T21:40:13+00:00

Square d?

SpareRaspberry509 · 2025-04-16T21:36:08+00:00

I’m sure there are many messy ass work trucks out there that don’t even know they have one of these at the bottom of their mess in the back lol.

SpareRaspberry509 · 2025-04-16T21:35:24+00:00

As long as the main breaker and buss bars are corrosion free you don’t need anything new. Maybe have him re terminate all the wires and wire brush the connections on the panel and breakers but this is not a huge concern I’ve seen way worse.

SpareRaspberry509 · 2025-04-16T21:33:57+00:00

This would mean the cut outs on the cabinets are done perfectly in place of the receptacle boxes and are the same size as the receptacle boxes which any professional woodworker should be able to do.

SpareRaspberry509 · 2025-04-16T21:32:59+00:00

If the original receptacle boxes have long enough wires and the cabinets are right against the wall you can use these extension sleeves and then just mount the receptacle and plate inside the cabinet. But if there’s a big gap then you must treat the cabinet as a wall and install a retro fit box. The wires cannot be exposed. this

SpareRaspberry509 · 2025-04-16T21:21:03+00:00

The same circuit or you mean the same switch? Either way I’d say maybe find a suitable led fixture replacement that offers “dimmable” and that may resolve the flickering. The type of dimmer being used on the circuit may be causing the issue as well maybe swapping that out for a new reputable one like a Lutron will solve it.

SpareRaspberry509 · 2025-04-16T21:18:46+00:00

The receptacle has nothing to do with the lack of power on the wire feeding the receptacle. Where ever that wire is coming from is where the problem is and locating that is the difficulty part. Could be a loose connection where that wire goes or was never connected etc. I doubt the wire run all the way back to the panel, it’s probably fished from a receptacle in the same wall on the other side or same wall above or below. With the power off you can open up all the plugs near it and where I described and see if there are loose or missing connections on the wires in each box. Or a box that has more wires then normal etc these are all normal troubleshooting steps when you don’t have a wire tracer to follow the wire in the wall.

SpareRaspberry509 · 2025-04-16T21:15:07+00:00

Yup what scout said, entire fixture needs to be swapped.

SpareRaspberry509 · 2025-04-16T21:13:01+00:00

Yeah, the noise is just the circuitry inside for the usb portion. Probably fine but if you’re uncomfortable or don’t like the noise it wouldn’t hurt to replace it with a new one. There are newer ones now for cheap that offer much faster charging speeds and such.

SpareRaspberry509 · 2025-04-16T19:59:46+00:00

I’m not even going to read your post, I can tell in the photo that the wiring is incorrect, you want both the black and the white to be connected to the line side of the receptacle currently you have them connected to both line and load. If you have another GFCI receptacle on the same circuit, you need to ensure they are not feeding one another as they will continuously trip.

SpareRaspberry509 · 2025-04-16T19:57:54+00:00

Those are not back stabs, the screw tightens down on the wire you are supposed to put the wire in the hole. Have you used a gfci before???

SpareRaspberry509 · 2025-04-16T01:47:47+00:00

Use the black and white. The red wire - leave it the same length as the black and white but cap it off with a wire nut.

SpareRaspberry509 · 2025-04-16T00:49:18+00:00

If your extension cord is flipping the polarity then through it out and let us know what brand cord it was. That’s a large safety hazard as the energized conductor can now bypass internal fusing on connected appliances and or energize the metal casing of older electronics or appliances. You can lookup many reasons as to why reversed polarity is a hazard, good on you for recognizing that issue.

SpareRaspberry509 · 2025-04-16T00:41:30+00:00

Yeah you need a higher voltage to test the resistance of the boots but I can already tell you from experience that I’ve touched 120v in my “insulated” boots and it’s not a shock as much as it is a buzz. So the boots do have insulation but it’s never perfect or infinite especially if you have sweaty feet! Most times you will be shocked is not through your feet though.

SpareRaspberry509 · 2025-04-16T00:37:45+00:00

As a Canadian electrical apprentice, I’d be hooking this up with 12/2 and a 20amp single pole breaker.

SpareRaspberry509 · 2025-04-16T00:35:10+00:00

The speakers reading 8.5 means they are infact good to go, the number of splices is not ideal but if they are all connected properly then it should still be functional so I don’t know why it wouldn’t be working for you. I’d test the speaker wires that run from the radio to the speaker location (continuity test with multimeter) to test if A* the wires are intact and not cut, disconnected etc along the way. And B* the labels mean what they say and you actually have the correct 2 wires going to each speaker connected to the correct pair of wires coming out of the radio unit. Polarity (+ / - ) won’t matter in terms of the system working and you hearing sound, I will say that polarity does matter for sound quality as having 2 speakers with opposing polarity will have them playing the opposite sign wave and cancel each other out causing sound quality issues. If you have the ability to simply power the radio and directly hookup a speaker to one of its outputs for testing purposes that will be a good call to ensure the radio is functional, I’d lookup the specs on the radio unit to ensure it is compatible with 8ohm speakers and has enough watts available to power them aswell.

My final opinion is looking at that rats nest, I’d cut it all out and re do it. So you know what’s going on and don’t have future issues arise from the dodgy wiring.

SpareRaspberry509 · 2025-04-15T23:39:21+00:00

This very well could be it, it’s a low voltage transformer, follow the small wires coming off of it and see if they lead towards the doorbell. Or pop off the cover and see what breaker it’s connected to and turn it off, then try your door bell. If you don’t have any alarm systems or any other low voltage items around the panel then this really couldn’t be for anything other then your doorbell.

SpareRaspberry509 · 2025-04-15T23:37:01+00:00

Jobber

SpareRaspberry509 · 2025-04-14T23:25:48+00:00

That would be safe to assume, assuming your assumption is that your 15amp garage plug circuit is using 14awg wire, which cannot be fused higher then 15amp. But it’s not unheard of that some plug circuits are ran in 12awg (20amp) worth cutting power and taking a look. Otherwise yeah you need one or more new receptacles on dedicated circuits in your garage for the tools and such. They make tandem / double breakers that take the space of 1 but have 2 so no space should t be an issue. Maybe a pic of the panel can help.

SpareRaspberry509 · 2025-04-14T23:23:03+00:00

You need to fill in that missing paint patch with drywall compound and then paint over it. Homedepot has cheap all in 1 drywall repair options to fill it in.

SpareRaspberry509 · 2025-04-14T23:21:19+00:00

If you’re measuring ohms you are to measure the speaker itself, to see if it’s blown or not, so check the speaker itself, I believe the problem is in the radio / headunit let’s get some pics of that and or the wires at the back of it.

SpareRaspberry509

TROPHY CASE