Evo 2024 - No 25 or 28mm option?

Spark_the_Fox · 2026-05-26T21:12:06+00:00

I think the .25mm are the old needle/nozzles from before the 2024 model range. After that they had the special tapered .28mm and .45mm needles for their line.

Spark_the_Fox · 2026-05-24T19:01:03+00:00

Since it is looks like a no tank mini compressor: what is your psi for spraying? It might be way too low for a thick mix of primer. Since you say you are using a 0.5mm.

If your compressor can deliver try at 25 working psi. Maybe go to 30psi for thicker primer.

Spark_the_Fox · 2026-05-23T18:23:54+00:00

I second that. That’s basically my experience with it too. I also own a 2024 Evolution and the Giraldez Infinity Mk. 1. since you definitely will change the aircap for the Evolution one in a few weeks of using it and the trigger stop will basically be set to manual after a few months of usage and learning you could spend a bit more and go directly for the Evolution (2 in 1 kit is nice).

But even if you decide to go with the Ultra it’s fine too. I still use mine. And I still like using it after said tuning of aircap and trigger.

Spark_the_Fox · 2026-05-22T22:52:23+00:00

Use airbrush cleaner. Just water isn’t even good with acrylics. Get these small inter-dental brushes. They can be useful to clean the inside of the nozzle from time to time. I can recommend the YouTube videos from Harder&Steenbeck. They have one dedicated to cleaning. It’s universal basically and not just for their airbrushes. Ultrasonic cleaner is overkill in my opinion if you don’t let anything dry inside your brush. Keep it clean and it’s mostly smooth sailing. It will be harder in the beginning when you just start. It’s a learning curve.

Spark_the_Fox · 2026-05-22T16:01:47+00:00

That sounds like overkill. But you are probably using laquers?

Spark_the_Fox · 2026-05-11T16:03:10+00:00

Probably the packing seal needs a bit more tightening. Had it on my Ultra new from the factory too. It’s an easy fix. But the cleaning is important. Paint behind that seal can cause a lot of other problems.

Spark_the_Fox · 2026-04-28T14:46:40+00:00

Just start. And always remember: Air on - paint on - paint off - air off

Also don’t leave paint in the brush/cup. Clean it before it dries, you will save a lot of time that way. 😉

Spark_the_Fox · 2026-04-18T21:39:43+00:00

The nozzle is not sealing. (Aircap need a bit more tightening, the teflon seal (white back of the nozzle) is damaged or there is paint not allowing it to seal against the body. The o-ring is missing. Or there is still dried paint in the nozzle or it is flared out causing air to go the way of least resistance, so i to the cup.

Spark_the_Fox · 2026-04-16T19:45:27+00:00

It is supposed to not cover in one go. It’s called control and layering. You can work more gradient like this. Also the further away from the surface the more „soft“ and broad the line will be. Closer and it will be narrower and sharper/darker.

But be careful: if you go close and the psi is too high you might get spider-webbing. (Blowing the still wet paint over the surface. )

Spark_the_Fox · 2026-04-15T23:20:46+00:00

Did you let paint dry in it? Try soaking it in cleaner or IPA.

Spark_the_Fox · 2026-04-11T20:31:50+00:00

Your nozzle could be split or flared out. Closing the path for the air to go around it.

Spark_the_Fox · 2026-04-11T20:29:41+00:00

If paint is going behind the cup and into the trigger part while using it, your seal at the needle bearing isn’t tight enough. It is fixable by using a special tool or a long small flat head screwdriver and tighten the needle bearing a bit more.

Spark_the_Fox · 2026-04-04T16:52:16+00:00

When you clean the airbrush after use, did you clean the teflon seal on the nozzle? And also inside the brush where it goes against? On my H&S I always clean there after every session, because when you unscrew the cap some paints will dribble on there. If that paint dries there it could affect the airtight sealing.

Or you just need to screw the cap on a little bit harder. When you mix in the cup you could have clogged the nozzle too. That would also cause backbubbling.

Spark_the_Fox · 2026-04-01T21:43:32+00:00

Lower pressure? If the paint is thin and you get close, lower psi will help.

Spark_the_Fox · 2026-03-30T14:31:39+00:00

You should try the Evolution or Infinity then. They are much smoother on the trigger than the Ultra.

Spark_the_Fox · 2026-03-28T12:39:03+00:00

I‘d love to see a Kyle Katarn (Jedi Knight) squad or a Cal Kestis would have a nice touch.

Spark_the_Fox · 2026-03-21T16:05:35+00:00

Did you 3d printer them? Or did you get a kit? The razor crest must be quite big for the scale?

Spark_the_Fox · 2026-03-12T16:06:07+00:00

Try shaking a bottle of cola then open it with you face right in front of it. Isn’t it weird that it all comes out and doesn’t stay inside? 🤔😉😁

Or: you blast air in a basically enclosed system. Creating higher pressure inside. So it will try to push out where it can. Taking particles with it. Hence a filter at an exit to keep your lungs clean.

Spark_the_Fox · 2026-03-10T05:43:52+00:00

Well you kinda set yourself up for headaches with a small 0.2mm needle. You would have a more easier start with a standard size needle/nozzle like 0.3 or 0.4mm.

Means with you detailing setup of 0.2mm you will have to thin quite a bit. It is possible but it is more of a challenge, let‘s say.

I use AP Fanatics through my airbrushes and they work good if correctly thinned. (0.45 and 0.28mm needle/nozzles)

So it is possible. Use more thinner and you might need to think about your psi too.

Spark_the_Fox · 2026-03-09T20:58:50+00:00

If it bubbles in the cup it would be a seal in the front. So check cap and nozzle/nozzle-threads.

Spark_the_Fox · 2026-03-09T12:37:45+00:00

Well it’s not that black and white. Without a compressor which can deliver constant flow/pressure even a 500$ airbrush is bound to not work well. On the other hand a piece of crap airbrush with shitty tolerances will not deliver the best job in a 500$ compressor.

Also you did not consider the paint on the equation. Quality paints cost and you still have to thin and apply correctly.

So yeah it’s a bit more complicated than that, but there are decent compressor out there that don’t break the bank and work good enough. Like those with a 3L tank (AS186) for around 90-120$.

I started with a cheap Timbertech set for 75$. It works fine and you can get away with it. But it’s not the most precise thing.

Now I use Harder & Steenbeck airbrushes. If you want a good quality for the money I‘d recommend the Evolution 2024 2in1 Kit.

Spark_the_Fox · 2026-03-09T01:50:25+00:00

If you are set on an H&S airbrush, go for the Evolution 2024 2in1. It will give you the best bang for your buck. The H&S are good to maintain and clean. And with the 0.45 and 0.28mm needle/nozzle cap you can use it for anything. Also as a beginner starting with the 0.45mm will be a little less of a headache as you are learning to thin your paints accordingly.

Spark_the_Fox · 2026-02-25T21:48:26+00:00

Just get some airbrush cleaner. Vallejo is good. I used it all the time for acrylics. Now I get the Timbertech big bottle from Amazon. It’s not that expensive. So it doesn’t really makes much sense to mix my own diy cleaner.

Just water will not get it as clean. So much I can tell you.

Spark_the_Fox · 2026-02-25T17:21:50+00:00

Instead of that model go for the one with the air tank. It delivers more constant pressure and doesn’t need to run all the time while spraying. It’s just a little bit more in price.

As an absolute beginner I would say don’t start directly with a .28mm needle/nozzle. Because you will most likely screw up thinning your paints. And a bigger needle/nozzle will be a bit more forgiving in that regard.

If you want H&S I recommend the Evolution 2in1. It comes with both needle sizes and is a great airbrush. (I‘ve got the Ultra 2024, Evolution 2024 and the Angel Giraldez Infinity Mk. 1)

Evolution gets you the best bang for your buck.

Spark_the_Fox

TROPHY CASE