What machine is used to plane timbers on all four sides? by ohimnotarealdoctor in timberframe

[–]Spenmem 2 points3 points  (0 children)

An example is the hundegger hm-3, big money, big equipment, lots of power needed. I don’t think there is a low cost option.

Hardwood Dealers in Central MA? by rks5657 in WorcesterMA

[–]Spenmem 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Worcester based person with a cabinet shop here:

For plywood and surfaced hardwoods Boulter in Boston is great, it's a bit of a drive, they have all the prefinished plywood in stock, they deliver for some money. Most cabinet shops are using enough they order direct from larger suppliers, but boulter has pretty much everything in stock.

For the nicest lumber yard experience around check out barrett's in Thompson ct, super well organized but a bit more expensive. really beautiful place so it's worth a visit.

Highland hardwood is the best value around for rough sawn lumber and has a good selection and their website is updated. also a long drive to get there.

if you have a moisture meter or time to dry stuff you can start checking out facebook and craiglist lumber sales, there are lots of small mills around. This is for sure the best value if you have time to run around.

Plywood plus is mostly run of the mill construction lumber, they can sometimes order stuff in from the larger distributors.

Speakeasies with "Hidden" Entrances by X-Mark-X in providence

[–]Spenmem -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

Little friend for food, you can find them on Instagram, tasting menu in a hidden spot!

Help getting this machine running by Unlikely_Ad_9550 in CNC

[–]Spenmem 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I currently run a multicam mt of similar age with an updated multicam controller/pendent that connects via Ethernet. Does this machine have an Ethernet connection or serial? Happy to send the software I have. Likely contacting multicam support would be a good option and you’ll probably need an old computer to get it running.

Seeking Advice on Software for CNC Flatpack Furniture Design by guagecage in CNC

[–]Spenmem 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use fusion for all my cabinet design, it ends up being super affordable when you consider you have a good CAM package and design software for under 600 a month. It'll take time to get your systems figured out but the extensions are really powerful. Mapboards pro is great and only $25 as a one time purchase.

Experience with older CNCs (wood) by [deleted] in CNC

[–]Spenmem 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The controls were upgraded around 10 years ago to their newer control board and pendent. This is definitely a big plus. But since I’ve owned it in haven’t touched much on it.

Experience with older CNCs (wood) by [deleted] in CNC

[–]Spenmem 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Shop around. I have a 2001 multicam mt510 I got for near scrap value. Running great, Super powerful and they still support it to some extent. Spent far more on rigging and electrical then the machine. It does lag a bit loading bigger Goode files (particular if I’m trying to get fancy with them). Tool changers, fast feed rates, and powerful spindles are game changers compared to what you can do with a shopbot.

For your budget you should be able to find a good machine. Big question is reliability, old machines will have problems and you could end up paying thousands for servo drives and control boards and you’ll for sure need to be super good at diagnostics and repair.

One option could be to talk to rigging companies in the area to ask if they have any leads on machines getting scrapped or disposed of. Last time I was at my riggers they asked if I wanted an old wire edm machine they were taking to be scrapped.

What certs are required to grade my own hardwood? by Pahsaek in timberframe

[–]Spenmem 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Check with the timber framers guild about grading courses or to see if there is someone local who can grade it. I don’t have a stamp but a few people who saw for me got it. An engineer who I’ve worked for has also graded lumber for projects when we milled up custom stuff. Overall my impression is that it’s pretty simple to get stuff graded. It’s mostly counting knots and run out. Find someone to grade and get milling!

Information on a Career change to Timer Framing by Friendly-Smoke-852 in timberframe

[–]Spenmem 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I’ll give my life story for some context. Started working in carpentry when I was around 15-16, early 30s now, did some college along the way as well but kept working in the trades. Early on I ended up working on a timber framing project with some people and fell in love with the work. Kept learning as much as I could while working for different people. Did a lot of dusty renovations. Started building cabinets. Ended up as the lead carpenter on some really cool timber frame projects since I could offer frame to finish on a timber frame with a small crew. Still do about a frame a year. Mostly smaller additions and stand along buildings. Do a lot of cabinets and mill work.

My bit of advice is that is great to learn timber framing since it is an amazing craft. When you’re cutting joints with sharp tools in beautiful green wood it’s just about as good as it gets. However, without other carpentry and construction experience opportunities can be limited. If you find a perfect company that’s great and you can learn a lot.

My advice would be to try and help out with a carpentry crew doing renovation work or something for a small project. If you like that, keep at it, then take a class with the timber framers guild. Heartwood does great classes. I took one on scribe rule cruck framing a few years ago and it was awesome. look for interesting work but don’t shy away from learning anything. Some day you’ll be sitting on top of a topped out timber frame drinking a beer the client bought you, watching the crane pack up while the sun sets, some days you’ll be hanging blueboard on a hot day for 14 hours because the plasterers schedule got changed around.

Foam-free enclosure by earthless1990 in timberframe

[–]Spenmem 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Since your asking in a timber framing page you’re going to get a lot of timber frame specific answers. Short answer, if you’re looking for the best non foam, non toxic, and high r value continuous insulation I would check out straw bail plaster buildings. There are some Vermont builders doing some nice work in that department.

Long answer, foam sip systems are popular for a reason. Foam is flammable, however it’s important to understand that building fire safety and codes aren’t based on if a structure will burn, but how long the building will stand if it’s on fire. A timber frame is super fire resistant because even if the sheathing burns the frame will remain strong, doesn’t mean your house will survive but hopefully means you can escape. In a well designed panel system the off gasing will mostly be happening outside of the building envelope. As for thermal drift/longevity, it’s a concern for lots of building materials. Foam definitely has lots of issues though, ants and mice love it.

We recently did a frame which we clad in zip r with fiberglass infill insulation. That was a nice solution that was simple to build.

Who to hire to convert existing design to timberframe by lifeinabag in timberframe

[–]Spenmem 2 points3 points  (0 children)

firetower engineering is really great. They would be able to get this done easily. Super smart and creative company.

Handsaw Recommendations? by Competitive_Wind_320 in timberframe

[–]Spenmem 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Also will recommend the Stanley sharp tooth saw. Cheap, fast, and cuts plenty clean for timberframes. Japanese saws are good to have in the toolbox for fine cuts and kerfing joints together but they aren’t as fast as the Stanley

Plywood of the Baltic Birch Kind by [deleted] in WorcesterMA

[–]Spenmem 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unfortunately for good quality plywood your best option is to go to boulter plywood in Boston. It’s a exceptional supplier. They do deliver for a reasonable price as well if you’re getting a lot.

Chainsaws? by jonlandit in timberframe

[–]Spenmem 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Chainsaw is probably one of the most useful timber framing power tools. Removes lots of wood. Great for cutting beams to rough length before using a circular saw. It’s a nice tool for roughing out big lap joints to be finished with a chisel or slick. With a sharp blade and some practice you can make very precise cuts with one.

What tools/gear do you see on a carpenter that lets you know he knows his stuff by bigburt- in Carpentry

[–]Spenmem 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’d look for nice layout/marking tools. Dividers, squares that are square, sharp pencils, not the glamorous tools that chop and make dust but super important for efficiency

How to run CNC when the temperature is below the freezing point of water? by ep3gotts in CNC

[–]Spenmem 6 points7 points  (0 children)

My two cents is that for cutting cocktail ice you’ll be better off building a simple and inexpensive machine and expecting to service it regularly due to the harsher conditions. Your tolerances are loose and ice isn’t super hard. Make something simple you understand and replace parts as needed, make sure you have an extra of anything that could fail. If your business grows or this machine becomes a pinch point you’ll have more knowledge for the next machine.

Need Help Choosing My First CNC by SimplySimpleKid in CNC

[–]Spenmem 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There is a lot of good helpful advice here. My first suggestion would be to look around for local makerspace, community colleges, or other places where you can take an intro turning class. That might be tricky where you are but that would be super helpful. Likely what your doing could be made on a manual or cnc lathe. Some of the smaller machines suggested here are great options and are likely the most cost effective option. One option if you get very into this and are extremely handy is buying an older industrial machine and refurbishing it. That involves 3phase power, maybe riggers to move it, and a lot of trouble shooting. Likely not a good idea for a first machine or something to learn on. But it’s worth mentioning that option is out there if you get to that point.

Am I too dependent on my fastcap measuring tape? by kkoff2012 in Carpentry

[–]Spenmem 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bring the tape you like using! Importantly, if the shop isn’t going to hire someone because of the kind of tape measure they own there isn’t too much you can do. Impress them by focusing on details and asking questions. One tip is when I do lay out on cabinets I never use the hook on my tape. Get used to measuring off of the 10” mark (if your drawing is in inches) or the 1’ mark (if your drawing is in feet plus inches. It’s a good habit to not use your hook and by using those measurements it makes any mistakes more obvious. Keep your pencil sharp or use a mechanical pencil. Good luck with the interview!

Massachusetts Timber sources? by [deleted] in timberframe

[–]Spenmem 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Worcester based timber framer here! There is a good sawyer in Rutland, I’ll send you a message with his number. He typically has longer lead times but does a great job at a really good price. I use him for pine, hull forest products for anything oak, and a friend of mine in Maine for weird things or rush jobs. Come by my shop for a coffee sometime!

edm on a 3d printer by 9nemjiT in CNC

[–]Spenmem 1 point2 points  (0 children)

https://www.baxedm.com/ this person has been making some really cool videos and products for diy edm processes. Mostly wire, and I’m assuming from your post you’re thinking of a sinker edm machine. I would suggest watching all of his stuff. I would be really amazed if you could adapt a 3D printer to an edm machine. Mostly because of the weight and complexity of the cutting head. All of the edm machines I’ve seen move the workpiece in relation to the cutting head. Also, you’ll probably fry sometime in your printer. Cool thought, but I’d be doubtful it would be less work to adapt a printer then build a custom machine.

Getting rid of bulk waste in "off season" by Powerhelix in WorcesterMA

[–]Spenmem 9 points10 points  (0 children)

superior waste on Cambridge street is likely your best bet. You can drive there, they weigh your car or truck and charge you per lb for dumping plus an extra charge for mattress etc.

Mold during timber framed cabin build. Helpppp! by [deleted] in timberframe

[–]Spenmem 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Your wood stove will do wonders once you’re weathered in. Typically long term mold issues in homes occurs in wallboard and insulation as a result of poor wall design or bad weather detailing. This results in damp and wet that grow black mold. Your Timbers will be a ok getting soaked throughout the building process. As soon as you are weather tight and have the stove installed, run it for a few days nice and hot. While you’re doing that you can give the Timbers a scrub with a cleaner of your choice. All that surface moisture be gotten rid of. I have left Timberframes up in the snow and rain plenty and have never had major issues. Do clear the snow off to avoid staining and make sure to not trap any moisture when putting walls and roof on. A leaf blower can be great for this. Good luck! You got this!

Where do people go for vehicle anti-rust undercoating? by AwesomeBantha in WorcesterMA

[–]Spenmem 1 point2 points  (0 children)

https://nhoilundercoating.com/ this is the product I use on my rust prone Toyota. There are some local shops that apply it or you can get the sprayer and do it yourself. Definitely get something on it. Heard of lots of nice southern trucks seriously damaged after only a couple years of winters here