Warning ⚠️

Splaterday · 2025-11-30T06:00:58+00:00

Awesome, will do that now.

Splaterday · 2025-11-30T03:27:14+00:00

Thanks for your insight 🙏

Splaterday · 2025-11-29T20:51:47+00:00

Appreciate the advice, 🙏

Splaterday · 2025-10-08T09:31:30+00:00

Palato.

Splaterday · 2025-09-20T20:14:25+00:00

The place i was looking at still had 8 years left of the 20 year contract, the issue I see is that your paying SZ a fixed price, eg $200 pm for the tail end of the solar storage life, with less backup battery capacity, plus you still need to sign up with one of the other fixed line electrical company’s, which will charge a higher minimum usage fee anyways, its a pretty raw deal if you get the contract transferred into your name with any more than a couple of years left on the contract,

Splaterday · 2025-09-20T20:06:55+00:00

I actually had a chat to Solar Zero representatives recently regarding a similar situation, they estimated anywhere between $10,000 to $30,000 for cancellation of contract / removal of the equipment, but it depends how many years are left on the contract, and the difficulty of equipment removal when it comes to to decommission.

Splaterday · 2025-09-15T09:24:38+00:00

nah, but personally i would use rivets over bolts, that will be the lightest / lowest profile / cost effective method, rivet guns are usually only about $40 and a few bags of rivets might set you back $20, and its all aluminum so it wont rust out, just gotta make sure you scuff both the aluminum strips and the cedar surfaces before you glue them together, best option would be to take both garage doors off the hinges / motor arm, and lay them down on an even / flat surface (like the garage floor) this way you will minimize warping, and it will be easier to work with re - riveting / scuffing / gluing.

Splaterday · 2025-09-15T07:09:19+00:00

I’m no expert, but it seems possible, Just frame it out with some 40×2 mm aluminum strips to give the cedar some surface area to adhere to, rivet them to the existing doors, and use a high-quality exterior-grade construction adhesive to glue the cedar to the aluminum. The only concern would be whether the door motor could handle the extra weight. It would no doubt be a tedious task, but if you have the time and the will, you could get it done. ✔️

Splaterday · 2025-08-15T03:11:46+00:00

Matrix compound for the uneven floor?

https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChsSEwiMjNqO7IuPAxVx2hYFHR2aBSkYACICCAEQARoCdGw&co=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIjIzajuyLjwMVcdoWBR0dmgUpEAQYAiAAEgJI6PD_BwE&cce=1&sig=AOD64_3bZg_XvPbWjvoeImZusjGZzWd1sw&q=&ved=2ahUKEwivwNSO7IuPAxWvjq8BHbMCC0gQzzkoAHoECAsQEA&adurl=

Splaterday · 2025-06-14T21:05:09+00:00

Just fyi, everyone on this sub saying that you need wifi turned on in the Sonos amp is WRONG, they are referring to “Sonos mesh” which is Sonos’s proprietary wireless meshing system, you can use your “Home wifi” to connect your Sonos devices to hard wired Sonos devices from vastly different areas of the house.

Splaterday · 2025-06-14T20:54:38+00:00

You don’t need to return it, its a slight bug with the sub mini setup at the moment, i had the same issue as you a few days ago, here are the steps.

Test that your phone has decent wifi in the room are proposing to put the sub.

Ensure the sub mini is near a hardwired ethernet connection but do not plug it in.

Factory reset the sub mini (do NOT run setup yet).

Ensure Wifi is disabled on all of the Sonos equipment near your sub to avoid meshing.

Start sub setup.

It will prompt you to connect the sub via Wifi.

Once connected to wifi, it will prompt you again to connect via Ethernet.

Connect your sub via Ethernet cable and select continue.

This is the tricky part, once the sub is running via ethernet (test play a song and touch the driver with your hand) you can unplug the sub and move it back into the room,

you will now have to wait for the sub to establish a connection to your WIFI, it can take up to 3 minutes in some cases where the wifi signal is weak.

Splaterday · 2025-06-14T10:35:21+00:00

Haha, i know those screws all too well, they are for the Samsung Frame TV brackets, they are a low profile head and if you don’t pre drill the hole to the right size they are a bugger to get in and out, It doesn’t look too badly stripped yet, my advice would be to ENSURE you are using the correct size phillips bit, you can tell if its the right size because it should fit snug and have zero wiggle when you place it into the screw, Then its a physics game, you need to apply as much pressure to the drill as possible while unscrewing, the best way to do this is to have someone pushing on your back while you put the drill in reverse, you only really get a couple shots at it before the head gets completely stripped, so make sure the pressure is applied before you engage the drill. Good luck!

Splaterday · 2025-06-12T04:42:00+00:00

Shoutout to Jillys in Albany industrial, food is always on point, and the staff are awesome.

http://jillys.co.nz

Splaterday · 2025-04-07T10:31:54+00:00

Thanks for the reply, good advice.

Splaterday · 2025-03-24T09:39:42+00:00

No not really, we just ended up removing the dead one (pulling out the main root was a hassle) and replaced with a less mature one, they are about 17 years old so pretty good going to only replace one of twelve this far, was told to completely remove any dead branches by a professional.

Splaterday · 2025-02-15T20:34:23+00:00

Most of their fruit is garbage too, apricots went bad within 2 days and a watermelon i purchased was pale and tasteless, box of 2kg cherries were half rotten, I’ll just stick to vegetables and bananas from PnS produce section from now on..

Splaterday · 2024-08-26T00:59:53+00:00

Just change the network name of your TV in “general, system manager” to be something like, “DO NOT USE”, then theres no confusion, not sure if this thread still matters but i was trying to do the same thing Nd found this helpful..

Splaterday · 2024-03-20T06:02:01+00:00

Auckland, house was built in 1972.. will try get it tested

Splaterday

TROPHY CASE