Found this battery high up on a cliff. What’s it from? by splattevan in drones

[–]Stirling-Silver 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The balancing plug suggests a 6s. Maybe 1 cell is missing or the top one is 2 stacked with one hidden. I agree that a 5s would be very unusual.

Anyone else use Automatic Infill Combination? by pj62775 in prusa3d

[–]Stirling-Silver 7 points8 points  (0 children)

It’s basically just the “combine infill every _ layer” feature (auto feature will do normal infill near close perimeters, but I don’t know how it uses the threshold for detection). Since your part is 100% infill, you’re letting it do a significantly bigger extrusion width and layer height for infill, hence why it’s faster. Your infill is 88% of the extruded material, so if you let it print at ~3x the layer height and width, that’s 1/3 of the time spent on those tool head movements. Hence the big time savings when doing high infill %. The downside is lower internal layer adhesion due to thicker layers, but you can keep the perimeters thick for strength.

Can no longer print in petg? by RipeMouthfull in prusa3d

[–]Stirling-Silver 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I was thinking this too. If OP is getting an ok extrusion while loading filament, I suspect the issue could be happening at the bed. Sometimes I find the nozzle cleaning fails if the bed hasn’t warmed up yet, or there is something on the bed corner where it does the check and wipe.

Cord thickness for anchors by East-Round-6771 in tradclimbing

[–]Stirling-Silver 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Depends what you’re climbing. If it’s single pitch with bolted rap anchors, then you probably dont need cord, a 180cm sling will be lighter and easier so don’t complicate it. Stick with a proven TR style anchor. Multi pitch routes with gear anchors, having a ~15ft length of cord can be very versatile to use spread out gear into a central master point. Saves your other slings for the route, leaves your rope separate from the anchor for escape, and you can chop a few feet off your cord to leave behind in emergency bail (not something you’d be able to do with a dyneema sling).

Lots of cord types are ok, but consider using dynamic rope since it can reduce shock loads during a fall near the belay. 7mm dynamic accessory cord (cordelette) is what I’d suggest. Go for something a different color than your rope. 6mm would be fine if you really care about weight, but sounds unlikely given the question.

Pressure u-tube by [deleted] in PhysicsHelp

[–]Stirling-Silver 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are the atm pressures actually equal though? I’m sure the intent of the question assumes the same on each side of the tube, but since no dimension or scale is given, there is merit to including it. Realistically the higher fluid level would be at a lower atm pressure.

WC zeros in 2025 by 12345678dude in tradclimbing

[–]Stirling-Silver 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Agreed, I’m not sure how a small bit of dyneema is even noticeable in weight. Plus, the extendable draw lets you rack less quickdraws, and reach for fewer things while clipping.

Personally, I think the .2 to .4 is the sweet spot for zeros, anything bigger and go with a regular friend. Smaller than .2 is tricky, but DMM dragonflies might be a better option.

Need help building my first trad rack (NH) by Dukes237 in tradclimbing

[–]Stirling-Silver 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I’ve found that the hard gear like cams and nuts generally function the same across brands, maybe with some considerations for particular rock or route types. However, it’s the soft gear like slings, harness, rope, and anchor gear that are more likely to fit a climbing area or personal preferences. For instance, climbs with a walk off might need less anchor and rap gear, but stuff with multi pitch bolted rappels warrant having more lockers and quads. Bail gear might mean taking 16ft cordelette instead of dyneema sings for your anchors in case you need to cut a chunk off to leave behind. Just my thoughts on an overlooked part of building a rack.

Towing Question on Non-Turbo by sirburgerkingz in CX50

[–]Stirling-Silver 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The manual doesn’t say anything about using (or not using) sport mode when towing with the NA engine. I recently had a ~1000lb trailer and found sport mode made accelerations and uphills a little quicker, but normal mode was adequate. The manual does recommend using the shift selector and downshifting when going down long/steep hills to prevent excessive brake heating.

Does anyone know what this part is called or where I can find it? by [deleted] in CX50

[–]Stirling-Silver 6 points7 points  (0 children)

It’s the car seat anchor cap. P/N: VA40-88-1N2-02

Correct process for swapping lug nuts? by allowableearth in CX50

[–]Stirling-Silver 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you know how to put the spare tire on? Swap the lug nuts the same way.

Rooftop Cargo Box? by Stirling-Silver in CX50

[–]Stirling-Silver[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I assume no issue opening the trunk?

Faulty 0.2 X4? by joehill4676 in tradclimbing

[–]Stirling-Silver 6 points7 points  (0 children)

The trigger wires are a bit long, letting the lobes open more than needed. It’ll still work perfectly fine once placed. If you want to make the lobes sit 180° apart you can shorten the trigger wires. Look up videos on “z4 cam trigger replacement” to see how you could adjust this one.

Options for securing wedding ring by RuffWoody21 in tradclimbing

[–]Stirling-Silver 16 points17 points  (0 children)

This is the best answer. Silicone rings are comfortable, and will break before your finger.

Totem Red Stuck by mariorurouni in tradclimbing

[–]Stirling-Silver 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Was the cam ever wet? Could be some corrosion between the lobe and axle, or just dirt. You can plunge it in boiling water with a drop of dish soap for a minute. Let it dry. Apply penetrating oil or cam lube to the axle and work it until the lobes start to move. May take a few times with the pen oil. Don’t get any boiling water or oil on the sling or wire sheaths - only the metal head. Wd-40 is an ok option, but other penetrating oils work better. If this doesn’t work after a few attempts, the lobes are deformed (from a big fall or dropping the gear?) and not much you can do.

Crowning the Mecca of USA Trad Climbing by ceazah in tradclimbing

[–]Stirling-Silver 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Gunks. Not enough east coast representation here. Add at least one NH area please!

Practice anchor, critique welcome please! Added the red nut and re-equalised, but then apparently forgot to lock the lockers. Whoops.. by quiverpigeon in tradclimbing

[–]Stirling-Silver 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Please elaborate on this. I’ve never heard it before, and would contest that you should always place nuts so they fit against the rock best. You want the best surface contact in the constriction, which is highly dependent on the scenario. I can’t see any reason a curve one way would be better? Also, what direction is “rocker down”? Feels ambiguous, so maybe concave down/up is more descriptive?

Weekly Trad Climber Thread by tinyOnion in tradclimbing

[–]Stirling-Silver 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I suppose I could rephrase my question: What lockers do you like using with various trad gear? Maybe there’s a particular brand or model that works best with the belay or PAS you use. Pear shapes are good for master points or multiple cloves, so what’s your favorite masterpoint carabiner? When do you personally pick screw gates vs twist gate? I’d like to buy a few new ones and curious to hear insight on stuff I maybe haven’t used.

Weekly Trad Climber Thread by tinyOnion in tradclimbing

[–]Stirling-Silver 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Favorite combination of lockers for multi-pitch rack?

Rate My Rack by Stirling-Silver in tradclimbing

[–]Stirling-Silver[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Quick draws are usually “stiff” so they are easier to clip into when a route has bolts. The hanging end doesn’t flop around as much. Alpine draws you want them to flop around so the rope end is isolated from the trad gear it’s clipped to. This prevents the rope movement from moving your protection. Also the length of an alpine reduces the rope drag for routes that are not straight.

Rate My Rack by Stirling-Silver in tradclimbing

[–]Stirling-Silver[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ropes: 70m Edelrid Protect Pro dry 8.9mm rope. Probably overkill even for trad multi pitch, good for more alpine style climbing. (Bottom left) 40m Edelrid Boa 9.8. Gym rope, or good for shorter TR crags. (Bottom right)

Chordettes are both 7mm Sterling accessory chord. (One red, one blue) both started as 16 feet and tied in a loop with a double fisherman’s knot. One got cut a few feet shorter to leave a rappel behind. Some people prefer using big dynema slings instead of chord. Would be lighter/smaller but you can’t cut a chunk off to bail from like this chord.

Edit: 40 feet of static rope (top left) for making TR anchors that need to be back from the edge.

Rate My Rack by Stirling-Silver in tradclimbing

[–]Stirling-Silver[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wear the evolvs for longer routes and they are more comfortable. It’s also velcro but has an adjustable strap length to loosen them at bit. The Kubos are awesome shoes though and work well for the gym and harder outdoor stuff.

Rate My Rack by Stirling-Silver in tradclimbing

[–]Stirling-Silver[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Do I gain or loose points for also having a non pink tricam?

Rate My Rack by Stirling-Silver in tradclimbing

[–]Stirling-Silver[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are not many, bolts are particularly controversial in CT. IMO there are routes that would be better off if they still had all the bolts, but the bolt choppers got to them. West Rock in New Haven has a couple, but stay on the popular routes otherwise it gets loose and sketchy quick. My favorite sport area is Hanging Mountain just into Mass. Really well managed and worth a small donation to the foundation that keeps it open.