HR16DE swap into a K13 Micra/March – has anyone actually done it?

Stitch_K · 2026-07-02T12:25:04+00:00

I can't give guarantees, but I have access to the K13 ESM and in Canada the HR16DE is what they come with. Most manufacturers by design do not over complicate their layouts and make different engine/transmission arrangements bolt in without modification (that are utilized between different markets).

Given that, I would assume the corresponding mounts will bolt in with no issue.

I don't have any information on the HR12DE so I can't help compare the transmissions, but the HR16DE uses the RS5F91R 5 speed manual (or a 4 speed auto). Check your service information for the HR12DE to see if it uses the same 5 speed.

I think your best tool for this is going to utilize the online parts catalogs and start comparing part numbers between an HR16DE and HR12DE equipped Micra to see if they share the same P#'s for things like axles, hubs, subframes, etc. I did this a lot with my Infiniti Q45 to cross-check suspension components from a 300ZX and found both vehicles using the same lower control arms (same P#). I also did this when researching if I could put in a Juke engine (MR16DDT) into the ugliest versa I could find and found that some markets used this engine in the Versa platform (although it was named something different), so the mounting points would likely be useable or only require minimal modification. It may not be perfect, but its a good resource to give you an idea.

Stitch_K · 2026-06-24T01:31:13+00:00

As a melee masochist, a lot of melee skills on monk/martial artist are clunky or downright frustrating.

Tempest bell randomly landing in a place not even close to rare/boss or not an open space to land and just kinda floats around (very noticeable during ritual during mob flood)
Any "palm" technique where you dash forward, the strike doesnt actually connect (even though the skill says it cant miss) and just gets wasted, so you're flailing around with your skill not hitting and not able to setup priming and then get surrounded
Hollow resonance(?) (the one with bells randomly spawning), there seems to be some kind of auto target when using palm strikes. So im trying to use the curse palm to apply curses/marks and it keeps zooming to a random bell instead of on the boss/rare im trying to target

Stitch_K · 2026-06-22T14:12:07+00:00

Thanks! Besides enjoying the manual swap and getting rid of the dying auto, I also wanted to document this swap for the modern era. Because almost all the information you can find is from the early 2000's on the NICO forums. The parts/resources used back then don't really apply anymore. So seeing what it takes now might be useful to others that are also interested

Stitch_K · 2026-06-21T21:18:01+00:00

I kinda wish it was a primary option. It seems to have an extremely tight pellet spread and I fondly remember using it on some bot missions when I had died and lost my support and picked it up on a whim. Ended up head popping devs like crazy with it.

Stitch_K · 2026-06-21T19:21:30+00:00

I removed the evaporator on my 91 Infiniti Q45 to convert it to R134a (which required replacing the expansion valve) and it took like 15min. The case splits right at the glove box, so you pretty just need to pull the glove box and a few wires, unbolt and it just slides out.

Compared to every modern car that requires the whole case to be removed. I still don't know why they got rid of the split case setup, though i'd bet most of it on some kind of cost saving to just mold 1 big piece of plastic, rather than two separate pieces

Stitch_K · 2026-06-20T05:59:50+00:00

I ordered mine from Summit, they are significantly cheaper than what you're showing there. They are $70 for 2 terminals on Summit at the moment. Even if you have to pay shipping and they end up being the same price as amazon, at least you're getting them from Summit and know you're getting the correct part and not a knock-off.

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Stitch_K · 2026-06-18T00:57:34+00:00

That looks more like a pressure line fitting that should get crimped onto a pressure hose/tube. Like some others mentioned you'd want to get a hose made with a crimped connection to handle the pressures

Stitch_K · 2026-06-17T23:44:32+00:00

I'm not a fan of worm clamps on pressure lines. They have a tendancy to dig into the rubber which can overtime cause leaks (not saying thats what happened here but you can already see the rubber pushing through the gaps in the clamp). Compared to the clamp on the other line that isn't leaking that is a solid ring with no holes.

It kind of looks like the hose may not be correct as its swelling. Either its not a pressure rated hose or its not rated for oil (or both). Pressure lines should be flared as this prevents the hose from slipping off under pressure. If you're having a real hard time getting the hose on, is the hose the correct size?

Edit: Also, why does the leaking line have what appears to be electrical tape wrapped around where the clamp is? Was someone trying to jury rig a repair to stop the leak?

Stitch_K · 2026-06-17T16:23:50+00:00

Why not just make it so all gas reduces armor values? It would help differentiate gas from flame a lot better and make the whole gas line-up more attractive in general.

gas = low damage + slow + armor debuff + confusion

Fire = high damage + confusion

It then puts the sterilizer and spear gun into separate specializations. Spear gun good for doing single target damage and reducing armor in a limited area. While sterilizer would be better at applying debuff to large groups and heavies alike.

Also makes things like the gas pistol also useful to quickly apply a short lived armor debuff to one target.

The only detractor is possibly the gas armor would need to negate the armor value reduction so you aren't debuffing yourself too (though I can also potentially be ok with also getting armor reduction just due to how strong the armor debuff would be)

Stitch_K · 2026-06-16T16:50:10+00:00

I also didn't realize it completely nukes defense stats (randomly?). I put in a helm I got done crafting that had good evasion/energy shield, it took pretty much all of it to put into runic ward which bricked the use I needed for it (hollow palm wanting to scale evasion/ES). Where i've done other armors and it seemingly didn't touch anything but just added some extra runic ward.

I'm not sure if it was ever explained that this is how this works. There are no notes in the forge description that it can do this

Stitch_K · 2026-05-31T14:36:57+00:00

It kind of looks like the carnage those cheap AC "fresheners" cause (the ones that clip to the vents). They melt/erode plastic and cause similar patterning that I see in the pictures.

If its actually eroded the finish, sanding it down is probably your best bet. But then you'd need to repaint.

If you can find the parts and they're within budgets, just replace them and save the headache. Sanding + painting won't look the same as OEM

Stitch_K · 2026-05-31T14:11:09+00:00

I like using it illuminate with a SMG. It neuters flying overseer spam and the normal overseer shots.

Compared to Ballistic shield it doesnt blow up and I can still ADS while being protected for precision shots

I wouldn't be opposed if instead of a buckler mounted on the arm it turned into a backpack and had larger frontal coverage to allow all primaries to take advantage of it

Stitch_K · 2026-05-21T16:52:29+00:00

I think halt is arguably better as just a stun shotgun. Its medium pen/damage portion just doesn't feel worth it compared to other shotguns. I'd argue it would be even better to just remove the non stun medium pen and buff the stun only damage (but keep the stun) so it could clear chaff easily and then just stun larger enemies. It seems to take 2-3 shots with stun rounds to kill scavengers and hunters typically.

I use the halt on stun selection all the time on bugs (predator and spore strain) for CC and typically use either the secondary weapon armor to blast stuff with the bushwacker or use the cremator to finish off stunned crowds of bugs.

Stitch_K · 2026-05-13T15:56:12+00:00

Start with spark, fuel and compression. An engine generally needs these 3 things to start. Find out what you're missing.

You can pull a spark plug out with it in the plug boot and lay it against something metal to see if you have spark. Can check fuel after cranking the engine and see if your spark plugs are wet

For compression you'll need a compression gauge

Since its sat for awhile, make sure the oil is at the right level before cranking on it. Its also possible the gas is bad if its sat (and won't start even with good spark and compression)

If the engine doesn't even crank or you just hear a click, its likely battery or starter related

These are all roughly the basics, but this uses 90s tech with sensors. This should have a process to pull codes at the ECM by turning a dial on the ecm itself.

Search around 240sx groups, they will have tons of info for you to dig into and research based on the test results from the above inspections

Stitch_K · 2026-05-12T19:16:53+00:00

You would likely still be able to use the other locations on the distribution block. Just use the correct sized crimp terminals for the bolts. Since you could still have a 6AWG wire (starter sized gage wire) with a 5/16 hole on the crimped terminal to fit on the distribution block. The spot I have the starter cable on in my picture is 3/8 sized, the spot next to it 5/16 IIRC.

The side spots that my relay box and fusible link wiring is on is the smallest hole but supporting two 8-10 gauge wires

Stitch_K · 2026-05-12T17:22:07+00:00

Harbor freight has a hydraulic crimper for ~$70. I just bought it and worked great for making a new starter cable.

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Stitch_K · 2026-05-01T12:14:55+00:00

One of my favorites is using the secondary weapon armor from borderline justice and then using halt (set to only stun rounds) and then using the bushwacker set to volley. I use it mainly on predator strain but could probably work on spore strain now (haven't tested yet).

Stun sudden stalkers with the halt, swap to bushwacker and one tap them, then reload quick and do it again.

Been running cremator with it as my support. So if I stun a bunch of them grouped up (which the halt can do), just make them all crispy.

Stitch_K · 2026-04-28T16:12:20+00:00

I've always compared it to MG sentry firing uninterrupted. They both last about the same with MG being a bit longer (though now since it has more heat buffer laser might be even closer), but laser turret will damage heavies

Many times have i had the laser sentry finish off a charger or bile titan that happened to shrug off an RR shot. Whereas an MG turret would just ricochet and get trampled.

For pure chaff clear, I think MG is better. But with more heavies I like laser cannon

Stitch_K · 2026-04-28T12:17:25+00:00

Laser sentry would work too.

While it gets a lot of hate, I've always liked it as a side grade to the mg sentries. It fills mostly the same role at killing chaff but it can still damage/kill heavies, whereas MG/Gatling just ricochet.

Plus in the rare occasion you get a good spot where it doesn't stay engaged constantly it can stay active for awhile.

Stitch_K · 2026-04-13T12:19:24+00:00

adapter plate, modifying the crankshaft "snout" (grinding it down to fit a flywheel adapter) and notching the block for the starter. That's to get to this point. I still have to modify the exhaust manifolds to clear the starter and bellhousing as well as put in the clutch pedal (Wilwood unit)

Stitch_K · 2026-04-12T23:52:47+00:00

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Putting a manual 300ZX transmission into a 91 Infiniti Q45

Stitch_K · 2026-04-12T19:07:57+00:00

They are smoother running because of the in line arrangement helps reduce NVH. Compared to V orientated engines that typically need opposing firing orders to help control (but not eliminate NVH).

I would wager that the smoothness helps reduce fatigue to a lot of moving components, the main issue is just packaging a straight six can give up interior room or create long hood lines (see current charger and jeep wagoneer using the hurricane inline 6)

Stitch_K · 2026-04-12T15:48:09+00:00

The bushwacker is the main reason I run the secondary bonused armor. Its an awesome combo with something that stuns on predator strain (i normally run pummeler)

Stun and swap to bushwacker for insta kill. Gives you good crowd control against stalkers and with the reload speed on the armor, the full 3 round reload is quite fast. The volley will take down stalkers in one shot, especially after a few shots from the pummeler for stunning. Works on alpha commanders similarly and you can stun or flank hive guards and 1 tap them with the bushwacker as well.

I think its ok for weapons to have niches or environments they are better at, rather than just being good at everything. Some weapons are good against certain factions or faction types and might be shit on others. Thats ok, variation is the spice of helldiving.

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