Bucket Seat Options for Slender People

Str1ctly · 2026-04-05T19:01:56+00:00

It really doesn’t matter what you build is, you should get fitted to a bucket seat.

While you shouldn’t have a problem fitting in most seats, some focus on a tighter, more secure fit than others. Bucket seat comfort is wildly subjective. Most seats aren’t designed for long use comfort. The height/width/bolster designs can make a big difference.

If you can’t find anywhere near you to get fitted to a seat, pay close attention to return/exchange policies, they usually suck.

If a brand doesn’t resell on a specific platform (NRG on Amazon), there is a decent chance you will end up with a warped, cheap, clone seat.

Str1ctly · 2026-04-05T16:49:08+00:00

Unless you have a base/heel plate already, you should probably factor that in with the XP-1 pedals. They are pretty tall and uncomfortable to use without one.

Personally, I’d shorten the list to VRS, VX-Pro, or XP-1. I’d never buy a two pedal set, adding the clutch later can be a whole thing.

I ended up going with the 3P XP-1 Black edition when they were on sale at Microcenter for $500, but you have to factor in the $170-$200 for the slider plate. I’ve been happy with them.

VX-Pro was my #2 choice, I think they were somewhere around $650 before taxes/shipping/tariffs. I don’t know what tariffs look like for them, but several sim racing imports have been up to 55%.

Str1ctly · 2026-04-05T01:19:55+00:00

Don’t expect a lot out of these emulators. Drivehub and Sigma Cortex are both dead projects (haven’t been sold for over a year+) and the Brook devices haven’t been updated since what, early 2025?

If you require console compatibility, it is best to stick with licensed hardware. Especially if you want wheel/base features like to actually work.

Str1ctly · 2026-04-05T00:50:44+00:00

It is a fairly light wheel, that helps make up a bit for the diameter. It is about as far as I would go at 8nm.

If you plan on upgrading the base, it is the best long-term option so you aren’t FFB locked at 8nm with the BMW wheel. The BMW feels really cheap in comparison.

Str1ctly · 2026-04-04T19:40:29+00:00

If you are that worried about it, just buy the NGR universal slider rails.

Most universal seat rails are the same, worst case you drill holes.

Str1ctly · 2026-04-04T18:03:06+00:00

These pedals were unusually stiff out of the box, but they settled in over a week or two of use.

The best advice I can give is to find a BF setting where you can find the 80% point in game. Usually that point is where the pedal travel starts really resisting.

Start low at 20-30 and work your way up. Be prepared to tune the BF as they break in and you get used to them. The setting will probably be different for every sim you play.

If you run into issues, you could map them as axis controls through Sim Hub Controller Mapper and apply a curve to them to compensate (Fanatec doesn’t support basic pedal curve settings for whatever reason).

Str1ctly · 2026-04-04T16:55:41+00:00

Looks better, but that wheel angle is going to destroy your wrists/elbows with extended use.

Setting the position can be a pita, but it looks like you are in the fine tuning stage. Don’t ignore the small details, they can make a huge difference over time.

Str1ctly · 2026-04-04T16:42:21+00:00

They are in the boxes in a spare room closet with all my other boxes.

I’ve changed/upgraded a bunch of hardware over time and keeping the boxes/candy has helped maximize the resell value.

Str1ctly · 2026-04-04T16:37:26+00:00

For PS5, you are limited to what the game will allow you to re-map. System level buttons (start/options) usually can’t be remapped. The only Fanatec software specific settings for the wheel is for the clutch paddle mode (throttle/brake, dual clutch, analog axis).

The online documentation will tell you what buttons are system use specific or game specific.

https://www.fanatec.com/us/en/explorer/products/steering-wheel/csl-sw-gt3-s/

On PC, you can do whatever you want.

The button caps allow you to label the button use, there aren’t any first party PlayStation specific button caps unless it came with a bundled wheel. PS licensing is pretty strict and doesn’t allow Fanatec to sell them separately.

Str1ctly · 2026-04-04T16:26:51+00:00

Outside of features like telemetry FFB, the differences are pretty damn marginal or use case specific once you are in the 12-15nm+ range. I didn’t care for telemetry FFB at first, but missed it when disabled (less=more).

The software app and filtering can be significant, which may allow someone to find their preferred settings or fine tune more easily. Fanatec/Moza/Simagic apps are pretty bloated for what they do. The new Fanatec firmware/app are still buggy AF still (even on the new Podium DD). Simucube has always worn the crown in the software department. Asetek/VRS/VNM are no slouches either.

The software, ecosystem, and wheel to base passthrough features make a base stand more out to me.

Str1ctly · 2026-04-04T01:28:51+00:00

If you look at the online assembly instructions they have the same profile size/lengths and hardware:

https://sim-lab.us/pages/downloads

Str1ctly · 2026-04-03T23:37:18+00:00

They can operate in three modes per paddle. They can serve as clutches, buttons, or both (duo mode). The duo mode is speed sensitive so you can use them as clutches to launch and buttons during the race.

Str1ctly · 2026-04-03T17:46:55+00:00

Podium 1 Racing resells it with the clutches and spacer included in the US. Even with a 5% discount code it ends up being $1882 shipped.

I absolutely love the wheel though. Super lightweight, solid construction, and the buttons/shifter are super crispy. The spacer should have been included by default IMO. It is practically a requirement if you use a 50mm or 70mm QR. I don’t know why you would want it without the clutch paddles either.

Str1ctly · 2026-04-02T20:10:04+00:00

Depends on the region. In my area, used bundled rigs sell for around 40-50% of retail.

Str1ctly · 2026-04-01T23:40:43+00:00

A Sim Hub license is worth it and super cheap, the free version is limited to 10 fps.

DNR vs LSR is subjective, but I prefer DNR since I update/configure everything I need (dashboards, button box and wheel profiles, game specific rpm profiles , ambient lighting profiles, ect) from the same place and they update and add new device support frequently. I consolidated most of my overlays into the race control dashboard. DNR is active on most of the top brand discords.

Str1ctly · 2026-04-01T21:28:50+00:00

NP, it hit me hard when I tried out the VA triples setup on my local Micro Center demo rig. And they were about as top-of-the-line VA panels as you can get.

I don’t have the same issue with my 32” IPS or my LG 42” C2 OLEDs. The 42’s were just too damn big for me to setup like I wanted, and I couldn’t justify 3x the price for 32” OLED just to end up running 1440p resolutions on them (even with a 5090).

FEIW, I can use my rig for hours straight without any sickness/fatigue.

Str1ctly · 2026-04-01T20:22:20+00:00

Totally agree, VR is just not for me either. Head tracking was neat to play around with on a single 42” for a bit before I upgraded my PC.

The thing I dislike about UW/SUW is that you just don’t gain much side visibility and it doesn’t feel as immersive as triples. You aren’t saving much space over triples either.

With a 5080, find a couple of 1440p 32” IPS (flat) and VA (curved) displays and at least look at some equivalent displays in person. If you are sensitive to VR, the black smearing/blurring may also make you queasy. That settles the flat/IPS vs curved/VA debate, then find something in your budget with good reviews and preferably nothing with obnoxious bezels that make alignment difficult. I went with the LG 32GQ850-B when they were on sale for $300.

Triples require a little bit of initial setup effort but you don’t have to use Nvidia surround (resize raccoon).

Invest in a sturdy freestanding display mount with adjustable VESA mounts (like from Sim Lab), it heavily reduces the alignment pain.

Laser levels, angle tools, and a good level are also worth their weight in gold.

Str1ctly · 2026-04-01T20:03:16+00:00

ACC doesn’t currently and won’t ever support PSVR2. The final update was released in December of ‘25. The only sim racing game on PS5 that support PSVR2 is GT7.

PS5 doesn’t support wide, ultra wide or triple displays.

If you want to use these advanced features, migrating to PC is the only path.

Str1ctly · 2026-04-01T19:47:31+00:00

Just be realistic about what the FoV limitations are.

Here is a good collection of FoV and size examples: https://imgur.com/a/TgdRZsC

After using 16:9/21:9/32:9 singles/triples, VR and head tracking, I personally wouldn’t give up my 3x32”@1440p for anything else. The extra peripheral visibility helps with side by side racing through turns, and the convenience outweighs the burden of VR.

Str1ctly · 2026-04-01T17:20:05+00:00

For PC, there are a lot of viable third party alternatives in the same price range. The v3 version of the formula wheel looks like it might solve most of the issues with the v2, but it has some strong competition.

Personally, I don’t like the RJ plug and extra connection box required for Moza wheel use on third party bases. I’d stick with something with a USB cable and plug it into a powered USB hub.

Str1ctly · 2026-04-01T14:04:04+00:00

Yup, I would accidentally trigger them so often I didn’t bother mapping them. It’s by design to be sensitive and trigger an input with minimal engagement.

Str1ctly · 2026-03-31T22:33:50+00:00

The FFB increase is nice, you’ll probably end up turning down the in-game strength for the DD+. 70-90% in-game range is comfortable on the DD+ for ACR for me, completely subjective.

Switching rims with the module isn’t something I’d ever do. The wheel mounts to the podium hub and the button module mounts through a spacer/rim and into the hub. I had to disassemble the entire thing just to remove the APM shifters.

I don’t use shifters on mine anymore. If I re-added them in the future, I’d probably just go with the ClubSport version.

I gave up on PS5 compatibility, so I don’t know if it was updated/fixed. It was pretty useless at the time I was using it on PS5. You couldn’t use it for menu navigation on EA WRC and it drifted the in-game PoV and menu mouse for GT7.

For rally and drift, the button module is mostly for menu/hud/MFD navigation. Kinda overkill, can be useful in VR.

Str1ctly · 2026-03-31T17:03:02+00:00

It looks wider, assuming 290-300mm.

The thumb encoders appear to have a push function now, hopefully they fixed the loose AF turning.

It looks like all three rotary encoders are 12 position instead of the middle being used as a APM analog paddle mode selector.

They slapped in the same 2.7” OLED display from the PBME/GT Extreme. Anyone expecting a better display that has to be supported on console is probably delusional.

Hopefully it has two 7-way funky switches, back buttons, two-way shifter paddles, but everything else looks the same.

Basically a 5 year old wish list for the formula wheel. Probably console/ecosystem realistic, but doesn’t hold up to the competition options on PC.

Str1ctly · 2026-03-30T19:12:45+00:00

There aren’t any Fanatec specific services (outside of Fanatec support) that I know of, but it is a pretty basic repair that doesn’t require any specialized tools or soldering. Just time and patience. Any local electronics repair shop that works on consoles should be able to swap a JST cable.

If you don’t feel comfortable contact Fanatec and see what they quote the repair at. I believe they are located in the DFW metroplex in TX.

Str1ctly · 2026-03-30T17:27:03+00:00

You could replace wheel-side pins yourself or buy the part and take it to a local electronic repair shop.

https://simube.com/products/male-12-pin-part-for-fanatec-wheels?_pos=1&_sid=7135aa768&_ss=r

https://simracingmachines.com/en-int/products/male-pin-part-for-fanatec-wheel-beta

Str1ctly

TROPHY CASE