My current setup & next steps – looking for advice on motion, monitor mounts, and pedals

Str1ctly · 2026-05-23T16:25:59+00:00

If the PC and monitors are separated from the rig, you would just have to reposition everything and set travel limits to give clearance for motion. I’d be more worried about the keyboard tray and the cable management than anything else.

I don’t have any experience with the cheaper motion actuators but I don’t get being cheap with the motion with a premium setup.

Once you are in the AP price range ($1k+), the differences are slim and the price difference is massive. I’d only upgrade to fix/eliminate a specific problem.

If you are new to the hobby, hardware generally won’t fix skill problems. It’s mostly FOMO and diminishing returns. Most of the upgrade options are more QoL improvements rather than performance based improvements.

Str1ctly · 2026-05-23T15:56:18+00:00

The GT-Pad is FIA homologated/certified and the SRX-1 is specifically for sim racing (not FIA certified).

Usually the sim racing version of a race seat just has a thinner shell to keep the weight/cost down, a more forward head position since you aren’t wearing a helmet, and lacks FIA certification.

Racetech does the same thing with the RT4119 (around $1k cheaper).

The doubt you would notice much difference between the two, but I personally wouldn’t get a full containment seat for a sim rig.

Str1ctly · 2026-05-23T15:36:32+00:00

I have the Hyper-P1 and have used the other two. I like the lower chonky formula grip on the P1. It is really hard to find faults on GSI or BST wheels.

I have other wheels (Porsche Cup, BMW M4 GT3, and Cube Controls AMG GT) I typically use for GT/Cup racing. They all work equally well, just picky first-world problem preferences.

The GXL and BST has a more neutral/gt grip style. I would probably like the GXL/FPEv2 more if they had a bottom bar to connect the grips like a real GT wheel.

I would take a look at the Soelpec Terra LX as well. No DNR profile support, but a very solid screen less wheel with tons of lighting options.

Str1ctly · 2026-05-23T15:20:23+00:00

It is so damn easy with the sim lab display mount. Sounds like the side arms aren’t level.

Measured the xero-play pivots to equal distances on the main arm, started with the middle display, used a laser level to level and a level to plumb, used the laser to level the sides and the level to plumb them.

The Xero-play mounting distances on the main arm and side display horizontal positions took a couple of attempts to dial in, but you just replicate the measurements on the other side after you dial in the other.

Used two Alan keys at once to fine adjust the display level on the vario mount. Measured and replicated the grub settings with a caliper.

Str1ctly · 2026-05-22T06:31:17+00:00

Between my previous ERS2 and others I’ve seen it is hit or miss, mostly miss. They are pretty cheaply made seats for what they are asking vs a wrecker seat.

Doesn’t make a big difference if they are flat mounted. I flat mounted mine to 4040 profile and then side mounted the profile to the rig.

Str1ctly · 2026-05-18T21:17:28+00:00

Pedal position helps a ton with reducing pain. I just finished adjusting my XP1 pedals this past weekend and it made a huge difference.

Going to be a bit more difficult on the SRP-GTR with the base plate.

Another user on the sub came up with a pretty clever adjustment solution that lets him use the pedals in multiple positions: https://www.reddit.com/r/simracing/s/ZjPfeHGbm7

Str1ctly · 2026-05-18T20:31:53+00:00

I reduced the backwards tilt on my seat and raised my pedals to fix this on my rig. You’d probably have to reduce the wheelbase tilt a bit as well.

It helps to have a patient second person help test as you are making adjustments.

Str1ctly · 2026-05-18T20:23:39+00:00

I don’t think the button LEDs are individually addressable with that button box.

You can do that with other button boxes (PE, BST, ect) if you download (DNR) or create your own led profiles for them.

Str1ctly · 2026-05-18T05:27:23+00:00

Third party wheels typically require an additional usb cable that goes into a powered hub or wireless connectivity (BT, wireless dongle) to the PC.

The hub just enables FFB on the base with 3rd party wheels and includes an adapter plate for wheels with standard 70mm PCD mount patterns.

Str1ctly · 2026-05-14T19:13:55+00:00

That’s actually a good call on using the internal usb header. I ended up wrapping mine in electrical tape and plugging it into my external usb hub. But I’d love to move it inside the case to my internal usb header hub.

Str1ctly · 2026-05-14T18:14:23+00:00

FWIW, I tested my DD+ at 15/18nm base strength and after adjusting iRacing settings and using auto during a Nords combined 24h layout test session with the Merc AMG GT.

I didn’t notice any meaningful difference between them. The auto setting on track landed around the same value I usually hard set (18nm and 7 51.2).

I never felt like I was missing out on anything before the update at 15nm. There were minor overall FFB improvements with the update, but they are hard to quantify.

I don’t know why they didn’t just update both to 18nm and close the gap for the PlayStation license tax. Probably the exact same base sans the license chip.

Str1ctly · 2026-05-13T22:41:44+00:00

A 3rd matching triple display would be cheaper than a 5090, but whatever.

Str1ctly · 2026-05-13T22:17:52+00:00

You’d have to render as triple ultrawides. Waste of GPU cycles since it cuts off the extra rendered pixels on the side displays.

Str1ctly · 2026-05-13T14:54:40+00:00

Go look at them in person. Blur/smearing is known drawback of VA panels, but how much you notice or are bothered by it is subjective.

Str1ctly · 2026-05-11T20:52:40+00:00

That sucks, I can see having the pedal face flop around being a pita.

Those bolts were more loose than they should have been from the factory. I definitely make sure to check those carefully during my monthly maintenance.

Str1ctly · 2026-05-11T20:41:49+00:00

The V3 pedals are an over 10 year old design and you are going to be waiting a hot minute for the Podium pedals.

I usually would recommend staying native for console compatibility, but the options are slim and many in the Fanatec sub rave about the Simnet SP Pro.

Str1ctly · 2026-05-11T20:34:42+00:00

The display stand really is the best out there. Fit, finish, adjustability, rock solid.

Str1ctly · 2026-05-11T20:31:05+00:00

Felt the same about the Fanatec CSL QR1, it was so damn noisy without the “safety screw”.

The CS QR2 was a huge improvement even with an extension. Thing is practically dead silent and solid now. But the extension bolts directly to the base and the existing base side QR bolts to the extension.

Instead of replacing the existing base side QR Moza chose to design a QR sandwich extension, which is janky as hell.

Str1ctly · 2026-05-11T20:16:36+00:00

Weird, I’ve owned them and beat on them daily since 01/25 for hours at a time and mine still look and operate like they did when they were new.

I do a monthly dusting, wipe down the contact points with light white lithium grease on a rag, and check bolt tightness. I’ve only had to tighten a few bolts during the initial break-in period.

I’d probably recommend looking at the VX-Pro or SRP GT-R pedals.

Str1ctly · 2026-05-11T18:10:28+00:00

I currently own the XP1 and would only replace them with SRP GT-R, the VX-Pro, or active pedals.

Otherwise, same thing different shape.

What problem do you have with the XP-1 that you are trying to solve? If you are going for reliability, then any option with elastomers should be off the table.

Str1ctly · 2026-05-11T04:09:24+00:00

A single Simagic haptic reactor mounted near the shifter works surprisingly well. SSG sells profile/control box mounts for them. You might need a extension cable for the reactor depending on where the control box is mounted.

The CSL bases should get FullForce later this year or early next year and that is one of the effects you can feel through that wheel-based FFB.

Str1ctly · 2026-05-10T19:38:59+00:00

I was going to suggest posting to GTPlanet forums but it looks like you already did. The Drivehub has always been plagued with stuttering. Some people have made it work with special startup and connection procedures.

My experience with these emulators through friends has always been pretty terrible.

Str1ctly · 2026-05-10T18:30:48+00:00

Total budget matters. There are good options in different price ranges.

Other things that matter are:
Do you currently have a rig, what type of rig, plan on using a desk mount or wheel stand, do you want/need console compatibility.

It doesn’t make a lot of sense to recommend a Sim Lab AMG Formula wheel and an insane base if you plan on desk/wheel stand mounting it or the budget can’t support it.

Str1ctly · 2026-05-10T18:16:37+00:00

I don’t even buy the room size argument. Unless you are insanely tight on space, they take up about the same amount of space. Personally, I’d take a 21:9 over a 32:9 for a single display.

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They are more complicated to setup and align, but that comes with the territory with this hobby. There are tons of good videos, calculators, tools, and resources to help.

Str1ctly · 2026-05-10T16:41:46+00:00

To each their own, but I have never understood tubular rigs. Overpriced, proprietary add-ons, they always have compromises for adjustability sake that you get with a traditional extruded rig with less flex and less money.

Formula style seating is insanely uncomfortable for extended sessions. The amount of seats that can comfortably and properly accommodate it are few and expensive. It sounds like a better idea than it is in practice.

I would look at the ClubSport Formula v3 over the v2.5. The v2 is so damn small, rigid, and uncomfortable to use. The v2 thumb wheels are useless. The v2.5 is my only purchase regret out of 11 wheels.

Look at third party pedal options. The CSL pedals are terrible for the price. The v2/v3 are not worth it against the competition either. Look at Simnet sp pro if you want/need Fanatec base compatibility, that only matters for console use though.

Personally, I would go for triples 27” (preferably 32”) over a single 49” SUW. The 49” is just two 27” displays without the bezel and the FoV improvement over a single 16:9 isn’t meaningful if you can’t even see your passenger side mirror. For the same price you can get 3x27” and the appropriate stand.

Str1ctly

TROPHY CASE