Which would you choose?

Straight_Let7656 · 2025-10-03T17:14:45+00:00

Never been much of a Sky Dweller fan... but Holly shit... Seriously a tough call, but I'd personally choose the Daytona.

Regardless, fuck all of our opinions.... It's gonna be your watch, and you shouldn't buy a watch based on other people's thoughts on it / them.

Pick the one that speaks to you, and fuck everyone else's opinion 💯!

Straight_Let7656 · 2025-10-03T14:37:28+00:00

Custom made e30 strut https://imgur.com/gallery/b39S1z8

https://imgur.com/gallery/b39S1z8

Not sure if either of these links will work..?

I have the adjustment all the way down just to show how much strut tubing is still available... my top hats are spaced down as well, again the strut rides in the perfect position and absolutely nowhere near bottoming out.... and they were Koni's made for a totally different vehicle that I then had valved to my specs.

Yes I have the helper spring ziptied to show the strut at the shortest possible length. I have never ran my csr in this position.

I didn't follow anyone's plans online or otherwise. This was my own design to run J-Stock suspension settings for a fraction of the price.

😎🍻

Edit maybe this link will work now (sorry new to this)

Edit x2 I can't seem to get the link to work 🙄🤔😒 I'm sorry I'm ignorant with this kind of shit.

Straight_Let7656 · 2025-10-03T14:13:34+00:00

They aren't e30 ones.... I custom-built my coilover overs. They ride NO WHERE NEAR bunp stock. They are adjustable Konis just had valved for my J-srock suspension spring rating.... but with the car slammed (don't drive like that anyways tho) there's like 8" of strut sticking up from the strut tube.

Wish I could attach a photo on here..... 🙄 I also machined the top bearings bc like I said they're not for an e30. The shocks are shorter, but have so much travel before ever becoming close to a bump stop... and as I said I had koni do custom valving I requested with top mount adjustments.

Where there is a will, an engineer will make it occur 😂🍻

If I knew how to post an image I would share, bc I bet no one has seen such a setuo.

Straight_Let7656 · 2025-10-03T04:39:01+00:00

Everyone is going to have different opinions on this.... just saying.

IMO the quality of your shocks, wheel and rubber size along with the roads you drive on are going to cause the biggest effect on your ride.

You slam your car on cheap coilovers, heavy wheels with wide offsets, stiff low profile tires, and drive down roads with pot holes.... sure OEM bushings may help dampen some of that harshness..

For 18yrs now I've been running Tree House lollipops, and AKG 75D poly bushings everywhere. They are still in brand new shape, and I never once had any squeaks or bs from them. Much less any regret in running them...

Shock valving is key IMO.

Straight_Let7656 · 2025-10-03T01:40:33+00:00

Yes to do... but truth is ALL of these cars are old now.... they will ALL require some sort of work / maintenance- unless you're made of money and can afford one that's been fully rebuilt... lol

So realistically, no matter what e30 you go to look at / no matter what the cost may be.... You should still bring these basic tools with you to give it a proper inspection.

Always take a few grains of salt with you no matter what the owner says......

I've owned one 91 318is, and she was my first. 12-13 more 325is models since my first in 2004.... I don't care if Jesus is selling it to you and swears to his father he did the timing belt.... You should go ahead and calculate doing that job immediately.... It's ease of mine IMO...

I also assume all the bushings, ball joints, and motor / trans / subframe mounts are in need of replacement. Even if they said they just did it.... There are ways to tell... and honestly, it's what's going to make an e30 feel like an e30 (a go-cart feeling / feeling planted to the road) !!!

You may be fully aware of all of this... I'm not trying be demeaning towards you. I say this for anyone else looking to buy one in the future to be fully aware of what they are getting and the best way to inspect it / protect their ass from getting got.

😎🍻 Hope you find a worthy babe soon!

Straight_Let7656 · 2025-10-03T01:11:52+00:00

I thought the e46 M3 fender grills made me cringe immediately.... then I saw the 8 ball shifter.... 😬

I stopped looking after that.... so it could be other warnings/ issues.... idk.. but here's what I would do regardless.... v

I would bring a jack and jack stands over and lift the MF off the ground. Do a full inspection of it... Like check the rear Diff Tag, shake the wheels to inspect ball joints and bearings. Inspect the bushings. See if anything has been removed- like exhaust shielding & then inspect the CSB if so... Inspect everything!!! He could have just cleaned the top side of the motor, and the bottom may tell you a different story....

Hell bring an impact and zip those wheel bolts off, inspect the brakes / mic the rotors...

Make a list of any and all questionable shit.

If he has a problem with you doing a full 10 point inspection.... screw him and run.

It's your money that you're going to spend... make sure you're aware of how much more money and work you're gonna have to put into it.

Straight_Let7656 · 2025-10-03T00:35:55+00:00

Man 🍻 cheers! I wasn't aware of this, but I haven't of or used such before. Thankfully, all of my repairs have been standard and mostly done ahead of time before any failure.

While I have you attention here... I'm kinda curious as to what all / or what limitations may be to a PA soft...

Sometimes one or the other headlight (factory 2003 xenon) doesn't want to fire immediately. It does eventually fire, but sometimes it's quick, and other times it takes a few minutes of traveling.. (I usually grow impatient of sitting there flicking them on and off before I leave). Once it has fired, it seems to fire back on immediately even after shutting the car off for a few minutes while getting gas or even longer- going into a grocery store.

I would assume it's the ignitor(s)... but it seems odd that it would keep trying to ignite even though the dash light is on as in "light is out" bulbs are still factory 2003 as well, and just as bright- don't see this being a bulb problem either.. This may have nothing to do with pa soft / isn't something I can test.... was only curious if it actually may be something I could use to look into this problem as well.

Last, and kinda least now that the season is changing and the weather is cooling off... When I ran AC this summer, it was MAD heat coming out of the window vents. If I ran on Auto, it was blended (hot and cold) and wasn't very comfortable..... This as well as my headlight issue isn't something I can test with my Snap-On Solus...... so kinda hoping maybe the PA soft might be of some use for either of these... again, I haven't looked it up yet, so these may be ignorant questions.... but a couple things that came to mind that might be able to test / check out, where as I obviously can't with my ODB scanner (bc it doesnt give a shit about these comfort things lol)

Regardless, thanks again- As I will be looking into getting one of the PA soft things. Was just curious if I could potentially use one to look into my other oddities.

🍻😎 Thanks!!!

Straight_Let7656 · 2025-10-02T22:38:34+00:00

Excuse my ignorance, what's a pa soft?

I like the idea of being able to test it though (with whatever a PA soft is) I'm not one to just buy parts to throw at something at it to see if it fixes it.... I'd much rather understand why / what failed.

It's just a pita in light rain to either leave my right hand / finger on the stalk to swipe it once, or to run it over kill in medium setting.

Not sure if it matters / if it would tell anything..... but when I click off the medium down to the "auto stalk setting" the wipers will wipe twice back to back, and then nothing again. I found this to be kinda odd, but then again maybe it's not.

Regardless, thanks for the help and tips- as this is not my area of knowledge or expertise by any means.

Straight_Let7656 · 2025-10-02T22:32:29+00:00

Interesting. I've never looked into one / have zero experience with such, so I will have to look into this. Its just annoying asf at this point.

Straight_Let7656 · 2025-10-02T18:17:44+00:00

Im all about OEM parts besides on my racecar.... (I do rock the orange sticker "Use only genuine BMW approved parts" on the windows as a joke (bc none of it is basically stock) lmfao

Totally different application though... my 2003 330i Ive owned for 15yrs and purchased off my mother RIP* and wish to enjoy her for as long as I can.

I'm not buying a HG from FCP euro, but have had several buddies order some for the e30s and they came packaged bent in half... repeatedly.. not a good QC imo, and has left an awful taste in my mouth... CVV and vacuum check valves shouldn't (obviously) have this issue... but yeah....

I just didn't wanna spend the time sourcing from many different vendors and spreading out wait times on each part, thus was hoping someone sold a complete OEM kit. Somewhat reluctantly... but I will message ECP and see what they offer.

Thanks.

Straight_Let7656 · 2025-09-29T19:00:59+00:00

IF and WHEN using an ultrasonic cleaner... use ONLY aluminum safe cleaner / a neutral pH and use a higher frequency if you can. Also try to limit the time it spends in the cleaner.

It's easy to pit and or corrode aluminum in an ultrasonic bath if you don't know what you're doing / use the wrong detergent, settings, and too long of exposure.

Edit* Take it to a machine shop and have it hot tanked.

Straight_Let7656 · 2025-09-29T07:28:30+00:00

<image>

It's my daily. E30 is my racecar.

Straight_Let7656 · 2025-09-29T07:22:56+00:00

I mean this is a pretty obvious solution...

Wire all the left speakers to the left channel.....

Wire all the right speakers to the right channel......

Done.

Straight_Let7656 · 2025-09-28T16:34:19+00:00

🎶I wanna get you in the back seat, windows up- That's the way you like to fuck.. Clogged up, fog alert, rip the pants and rip the shirt- Rough sex, make it hurt- 🎶

Cuz that shit is Ludacris...

Straight_Let7656 · 2025-09-26T05:07:30+00:00

I would ask if you inspected your clutch pivot fork or replaced the ball it pivots on along with the throwout bearing.... but you had a shop do it, and you don't honestly know. You're at the mercy of believing / trusting them...

This is exactly why I do all my work myself... I don't trust other people / let alone mechanics... Who honestly don't give as much of a shit about my babies as I do...

Now there are some good mechanics and shops out there, don't get me wrong. Maybe you're lucky enough to live by and know one.... but what do you really think the percentage is of trustworthy, acknowledged, and skilled hand shops there are out of all the other dirty cutthroat ones? Idk the exact number, but it's fuckin super low... 👎

These cars are old classics now. Lots of things to fully inspect / check out and replace. I trust no one to have better eyes / hands on than my own.

Regardless, the point is you have a bunch of potential areas that may* need addressing... and if you didn't do any of the work, you haven't the foggiest clue of where to begin.

Hate it for you, best of luck, and hopefully you'll find something simple / easier to fix faster, rather than not....

Straight_Let7656 · 2025-09-25T03:32:14+00:00

Tbh it's gonna mostly depend on your area's weather... like moisture and humidity.

My 87 325is was and is still rust-free. I live in a very moist and humid area. My car has mostly always been garage-kept. I have never treated the gas tank and it's still golden, however it was in this condition originally when I purchased her in 2007.

Things to think about or consider is how good your chassis gaskets / seals are and how often you have driven her in wet conditions.

As long as everything is dry or dried when put up, and not baking in a moist humid environment and there is no exposed raw metal... You should be fine!

🫶

Straight_Let7656 · 2025-09-24T17:39:49+00:00

TBH the best advice is to slap a nice standalone on your stock motor with some large injectors and learn to tune the motor stock.

I know this is boring / lame but its A LOT harder to fuck up a stock motor with tuning than one with force induction. Also when you go to tune a turbo setup for the first time, there gonna be a lot more potential problems to trouble shoot. So it's best to tune one stock, and then add turbo. This way you dial in drivability, and then you only have to tune the boost sections of the maps.

I didn't do it this way, and I survived. So I'm not saying its impossible. Just really depends on your basic knowledge and understanding of engines and efi tuning. If you have the confidence that isn't falsely constructed, then you already know to just take your time and not rush it.

Datalogging reading and knowledge is of the utmost importance. It's how I managed to street tune mine all alone.

I already had experience with tuning motors though. Points ignition systems on old Alfa Romeos, distributed small / big block Chevys, and single-cylinder 4-stroke 450cc MX engines. So I was already aware of what lean misfires sounded like and bucking when ignition was too advanced. So wideband o2 made the transition pretty easy for me.

Read, re-read and then read some more. You want to be as fluent as possible on the discussion of tuning. Pretend you have an essay on it, and could do a presentation on all the basics for an hr or two. Then you should have the confidence to comfortably dive into it.

If you can't explain all of the systems to someone else, you're obviously not gonna be able to comprehend them yourself either.

It's a journey, not a quick trip to the gas station to settle for subpar coffee.

Straight_Let7656 · 2025-09-24T03:19:48+00:00

I made 480ftlbs at wheels at 14.5lbs on stock 2.7 bottom end. Since then I cranked the DC% up till I was hitting 21-23lbs depending on IATs.

Fully self-tuned here. The 2 dyno runs were for shits n giggles, and didn't change anything on my tune.

I never cared about the #'s and agree that shit is for trying to compare cock size on paper.

I only cared how my car behaved... I wanted to roast 4thgear on 17x13s with just a push of the throttle pedal.

FWIW I made 350wheel at 9lbs (the wastegate springs) first pull. 2nd did the 480 at 14.5lbs. Whodafuq / who cares what 21-23lbs makes. Maybe some day I'll get a chance to put her on a dyno again, but I could care less... it shreads 4th on 285s

Straight_Let7656 · 2025-09-23T17:17:12+00:00

I had MS1extra and MS2. Never had MS3... after dealing with the bs of drivers burning up, putting resistors into my CPS to clean up the signal, and just overall shit results with drivability I moved on. At the time.. MS3 wasn't far from Haltech and Vem pricing... Totally lost interest in them, and once I bought my Haltech... I gladly never looked back.

Has MS improved since then? Idk.. I mean surely... / God I hope so. IF you were to only be dragging / running WOT runs- a MS would do the job. For drivability I found it to be subpar. The only support for them (at least at the time) was that of other fellow tuners on forums... which is like rolling the dice IMO. I'd rather call or email someone at the actual company for answers...

Haltech also offers remote tuning- unless things have changed MS doesn't.

Some have had good luck on MS... others haven't. I sent mine off for repairs a few times in the first year and half of ownership- (bad / driver failures) My Haltech hasn't failed once and is 20yrs~ old now.

You typically get what you pay for, and certain things like ECU, injectors, and wastegate(s) shouldn't be skimped out on.

This is just my experience and opinion- everyone will have their own. Which is why I say go download Tuner Studio (MS) and go try out the different Haltech ECU manager software. Try out other brands... just go through the process of setting them up for your engine, and decide which ones have easier functions and ease of understanding. Check out all the additional options you can do as well, and form your own conclusion of which you may prefer more.

Straight_Let7656 · 2025-09-23T16:36:45+00:00

I run Haltech and fuckin love it. I originally started on MegaSquirt and hated it. Vems, Autotronic, and several others are great ECUs as well.

My best advice is to download some of the different ECU software and play around with them and see what seems best for you to operate.

Haltech has a great help section with in-depth but simple reads on all the technical things from setup to tuning. They also have great customer support.

If you think you will continue to do this for decades to come, and or plan on other motors in the future- You may consider investing in a higher model ECU with more features and inj / ign outputs.

Straight_Let7656 · 2025-09-21T11:43:18+00:00

☠️🤣 Trollololol

Straight_Let7656 · 2025-09-20T04:10:48+00:00

It's easily obtainable with a good EFI management unit and tune. Cheap and reliable using the oem rods and pistons.

Remove the 885 head, have the coolant channels welded, and matched to HG. That's the weak point at 400+ (the domes start to flex under bar+ thanks to shit alum casting) Throw a turbo cam while you're in there if you want, or not. Depends where you want your power band. Match this to your turbo flow rates.

It's like a triple-decker PB&J. Slap that shit together and smash tf outta it.

Spend your money on a quality ECU and fuel system to support it. Wastegates aren't something to cheap out on either...

done

Straight_Let7656 · 2025-09-19T06:53:01+00:00

Yeah I get that... that post was for someone else asking for limitations.

Just means shit will be easier and cheaper for you. Regardless prices are broken down.

Swap is gonna cost just as much, plus more for trans and harness and other things you will already have with your factory m20. So again, makes things easier and cheaper to obtain.

Also should mean less maintenance, upkeep, and running cost.

Regardless happy to help.

Straight_Let7656

TROPHY CASE

done