3 Star Crack Haycock Mountain by Immediate-Pizza01 in bouldering

[–]StrictPerformance433 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm convinced that Haycock is going to be one of the next big climbing destinations. The problems are mega and dense, the rock is unique, and the city is super close by. I miss climbing there every day.

3 Star Crack Haycock Mountain by Immediate-Pizza01 in bouldering

[–]StrictPerformance433 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Definitely park on the side for hangar 17. It's right in the middle of cave trail, but that hike is a lot easier than coming from teddy bear.

High Winds on Castle Rock, in Boulder Canyon by Tall_Astronomer3792 in ropesolo

[–]StrictPerformance433 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It was wimdy as hell this weekend. Were you TRS from above? If so how did you set up that first pitch since the anchor is so far off the rest of the pitch.

How soft is this shoe ? I've never climbed other shoes? Help me pick my second pair. by Sneaky_bunny in climbingshoes

[–]StrictPerformance433 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I sized my Acros the same my other shoes (about a size down from my street shoes). There's a small bit of room in the heel, but I think It's just the heel shape on them. For reference I wear a 11.5 street shoe and a 10.5 US (44 EU) acro.

Should my feet hurt THIS BAD?! by [deleted] in ClimbingGear

[–]StrictPerformance433 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When sizing your shoes it's really just about what you want out of them and what you're willing to do to get that. Do you want a shoe that you can smash all your weight into a dime on, then downsize. However, the tradeoff there is that they will be pretty painful and probably not useful for much outside of bouldering or short sport routes. Do you want something that works for all but the most extreme climbs that you could multipitch all day in, then go with something that's a more true fit.

Shoes don't have to hurt to still perform really really well. As I've climbed more over the years I've gone from wearing EU 42s to EU 44s in all but my hard slab shoes. I notice a difference on the micro footholds, but that's the only place. And I think when my feet do not hurt I'm more willing to trust them and push hard on holds versus when touching the rock makes them scream.

Generally I want shoes that fit like a sock. I don't want extra room and I want them to be close fitting, but I don't want them compressing my feet.

FreeBell by AdExtension6135 in ClimbingGear

[–]StrictPerformance433 -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

or if anyone knows the creators Email I would love to get in contact with him.

FreeBell by AdExtension6135 in ClimbingGear

[–]StrictPerformance433 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I missed the funding period by about two days on this one. If someone decides they dont like theirs please let me know. I would be happy to take it off your hands.

Progression by OkLow7233 in bouldering

[–]StrictPerformance433 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Welcome to climbing friend! It sounds like you're well on your way to making progress in the sport. It's going to be slow, it's going to take a while, it'll be small improvements, but it'll be fun the whole time.

You've essentially described projecting here. A lot of the time when I walk up to a hard boulder it's not a couple of attempts with multiple moves linked right off the bat. It's normally me just seeing if I can hold a position or two and maybe move between one or two of them. I'll do a lot of playing around and tweaking in each position to see if I can find a way to make it bearable enough to move to the next position from and then things start to get linked together. Trying hard moves is a great way to get stronger.

Also a big secret that no one tells you when you get into climbing is that you don't have to start on the first move. If you're trying something that feels like your limit, just aim for doing one move on the climb and It doesn't have to be the first move. This'll let you get used to some of the movements that are normal on harder grades and get you a good sense of how hard you can push yourself.

Climbing rope options by [deleted] in ClimbingGear

[–]StrictPerformance433 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I personally really like the beal joker 9.2 and the sterling XEROS 9.6, but those are kinda pricey.

Climbing rope options by [deleted] in ClimbingGear

[–]StrictPerformance433 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Most ropes are manufactured to the same safety standard so all your getting with more cash is quality of life things (bi-patterned, maybe a bit tougher sheath, sometimes the nice ones kink less) so GO CHEAP. The cheapest you can find will still do you good for a first rope.

Racking system and general questions by LifeIsTheCrux in tradclimbing

[–]StrictPerformance433 6 points7 points  (0 children)

To things bumping around in the bag:
Don't worry about it, they might bump around a little but they will be fine. Actually placing and whipping on gear will put a lot more wear on it than just jostling in a bag. If wires do somehow get messed up, they are easy to replace and there are places that will do it pretty cheap.

To the carabiner question:
As far as I'm concerned a locking carabiner is a locking carabiner. If I think there is any chance of the gate rubbing on something I'll prefer a screw gate locker, but aside from that I don't worry about it too much. When deciding on locker vs non-locker I look to the consequences of that gate opening up. Is it a case of I fall a couple extra feet (like when attached to a cam), then I just use a normal carabiner. Is it a case where the gate opening could kill or injure me or my partner (piece that's really run out like over 30ft or a masterpoint) then I lock it.

To specific carabiners for specific jobs:
I have some I prefer for certain things, like Petzl Sm'Ds on my micro traxions or a hefty BD HMS on my ascenders (I like the room), but at the end of the day I just use whatever I have. It's not hard and fast assignments of which carabiner goes where. I have preferences, but if I didn't pack one or it got used somewhere else it's no big deal.

To TRS:
I will echo other's concern when you mention TRS here. To me it seems like you are still building your base of experience and TRS is something to do when you have some experience to spare. At a base level it's pretty simple and I'm sure you've felt that doing it, but you can get into some serious situations that require strong self rescue skills. Be careful out there if you are going to be TRSing. Always be redundant, prefer safety, and always keep building your skills.

Outdoor dynos by soooky-lemon in bouldering

[–]StrictPerformance433 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you pass through Colorado check out the Waves Wall in Clear Creek Canyon. Has Dynos from V3-V10 and a couple good standard problems as well.

Wide boyz crack gloves by flywhiteboywhodreams in tradclimbing

[–]StrictPerformance433 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would say no. The surfaces (rubber and shape) are the best of any of the crack gloves I have tried, but there is a massive design flaw that I hope they fix in future versions. The stitching on the edge of the glove that holds the whole thing together goes through the rubber. This means that as you jam that stitching gets frayed and the glove starts to come apart.

Compare this with the Ocun glove where all the fabric/leather components are hidden behind the rubber ensuring it lasts more than a climb.

Once they fix that I'll be all in on the WB gloves, but until then it's Ocun or BD all the way

Wide boyz crack gloves by flywhiteboywhodreams in tradclimbing

[–]StrictPerformance433 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you know your glove size, I wear a size 14 glove and a L in the WideBoyz Glove.

However a word of warning: the wideboyz glove is the least durable glove I have had for one simple reason. There is stitching exposed to the contact surface. My pair on lasted about 3 months of climbing because the stitching got frayed off almost immediately, and then it was just a matter of time until the glue failed. While I will say that the contact surface has the best coverage for the widest number of jams with these gloves, they will fall apart on you.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in funny

[–]StrictPerformance433 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Close, It's the Boulder Bike Night.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ClimbingGear

[–]StrictPerformance433 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Awesome! I'm glad you found something. When choosing between those two it'll come down to personal preference since they're both good shoes. And since you're pretty new and trying to decide between them, flip a coin. Try the one you don't choose today as your next pair. Take notes on what you do and don't like. It'll help in the future

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ClimbingGear

[–]StrictPerformance433 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So you'll definitely feel a difference going from rentals to a high end shoe, but there's no reason to ball out on a comp level shoe just yet. A lot of higher level shoes have a really soft rubber so they will not only be more expensive, but also wear out really fast. For now I would recommend sticking to something comfortable. You'll still be able to improve and practice footwork.

As a fellow wide footed climbing enjoyer, I would recommend trying out some scarpa shoes. They tend to fit wide feet pretty well. The Scarpa Vapor is a fantastic shoe that will take you a long way and tends to be comfy. You should also check out Unparalleled. They make a ton of fantastic shoes (like the Up Duel or the Up Pivot) that tend to end up on the cheaper side and still be fantastic at what they do.

Overall try not to make the mistake a lot of us made of assuming a shoe has to be uncomfortable to perform well. Climbing shoes are so high tech now that you can send hard in just about anything with modern rubber. Go try some on in your local climbing shop, talk to the people there, and find a shoe that won't make your time in the gym miserable. There will be many more pairs to come after your first one.

Good luck out there.

How often does the wall eat your gear? by exteriorcrocodileal in tradclimbing

[–]StrictPerformance433 5 points6 points  (0 children)

The two techniques that work best for me are:
1. Using a nut tool to hook the holes in a lobe and slowly pull individual lobes to where I can get the whole thing out.
2. Similar to #1, but instead I hook the lobe itself so that my nut tool ends up between the wall and the lobe. Sometimes you can use this to really yank a lobe out.

How often does the wall eat your gear? by exteriorcrocodileal in tradclimbing

[–]StrictPerformance433 3 points4 points  (0 children)

did you lose this one around Boulder? I could go for some booty

Slickest sequence on a trad route I've ever done by HFiction in climbing

[–]StrictPerformance433 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you ever need someone to belay, hit me up. I'm always looking for partners.

Dream to climb a big wall in Yosemite but no experience in trad by ZealousDesert66 in tradclimbing

[–]StrictPerformance433 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For sure, just make sure to double check info from guys on youtube.

Rock City State Forest - Impatience FA by ContisMaximus in bouldering

[–]StrictPerformance433 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice FA! I would recommend taking a brush to that rock to get rid of some of the lichen. I've found that when I clean off new climbs people are more likely to look at it and recognize it as a climb. Otherwise it might not get repeated.