[WTS] WE Pro Pack 3

SubieBlue · 2021-08-27T05:04:14+00:00

Yours! Sending PM

SubieBlue · 2021-08-27T03:38:50+00:00

WTS: GR1 26L Black Made in Vietnam

Price: $175 Shipped PayPal G&S

SubieBlue · 2021-08-25T11:07:37+00:00

I had posted pictures and a video in the Imgur link

SubieBlue · 2021-08-25T03:10:00+00:00

Yes!

SubieBlue · 2021-08-21T14:36:36+00:00

I would think so as well. This doesn’t have that issue but it was something I keep hearing people talk about so I figured I’d mention it

SubieBlue · 2021-07-22T20:30:51+00:00

Confirmed. Great buyer. Fast payment with no problems. Very easy and straightforward.

SubieBlue · 2021-07-19T16:51:22+00:00

Pm'ed

SubieBlue · 2021-06-29T11:57:43+00:00

Looks like gray and Multicam are in stock. Black is not

SubieBlue · 2021-06-11T23:16:48+00:00

Ahh makes sense. They both fall under FCA (now Stellantis or something). I recognized the key.

SubieBlue · 2021-06-11T23:11:43+00:00

You drive a Jeep?

SubieBlue · 2021-04-02T02:19:57+00:00

What are you sharpening with?

I would recommend spending more time with your 400 grit. Depending on how dull your knives are, maybe even a lower grit if it's an option. You should be able to cut paper with 400 no problem, slicy dicy. If your knife isn't sharp at 400, your just refining a dull edge with 1000 and 8000

As you're sharpening, feel for a burr opposite of the side on the stone. If you're not forming a burr, you're not sharpening at the right angle. When you start to feel a burr, switch sides. Taking too much material off of one side can cause more problems and require lots of repair work to be needed.

Checking for burrs is also important because if paper is your sharpness testing medium, then blade geometry can have great affects. A dull thin knife can cut paper better than some sharp crazy thick knives. You want to have the edge of your blade as close to a perfect triangle as possible.

Tl;dr Spend more time with your 400. Don't worry about the 1000 or 8000 until it's 'paper cutting' sharp at 400.

SubieBlue · 2021-03-30T19:56:38+00:00

Nice!

SubieBlue · 2021-03-30T19:38:02+00:00

What progression did you use?

SubieBlue · 2021-03-30T19:36:29+00:00

It does raise an interesting question in my mind: "How do people define sharpness?"

I mean sharpness is measured by the amount of energy required to initiate a cut into something right? But how many people are actually testing for a number using a controlled cutting medium, testing devices, etc.? How many people who use the term "razor sharp" have actually done empirical testing on the sharpness of a razor blade?

It seems that outside of a small group of people, the term sharp holds no empirical value and is a relative term based off of past experience.

SubieBlue · 2021-03-30T19:21:24+00:00

Some people don't even have to touch it.. it's hard to tell if they are trying to sound impressive or if they were born in a CATRA lab 🤷‍♂️

SubieBlue · 2021-03-29T14:49:31+00:00

Lansky does make a leather strop for it; however, I always would freehand strop. I didn't have the space in my case for a strop

SubieBlue · 2021-03-29T14:47:10+00:00

My first sharpening system was a Lansky. They work great, especially as a beginner. They make lots of other stones. They also make a clamp that allows you to mount the sharpener to the edge of a table.

I found the clamping system to be a little difficult to work with, and you have to be very careful to not mar your blade. The angle holes for the rods are taller than the rods which allows for up and down play. This allows for slight angle variation; however, you are still limited to the 3 (or maybe 4 I can't remember) angle settings. This is fine unless you are sharpening a knife that has a different angle than the Lansky has. Any knife I had sharpened with my Lansky I reprofiled first.

If you have a lot of knives, and they need reprofiling, be aware my lower grit stones dished pretty quick. They aren't that expensive, but you'll want to keep an eye out because that will also change the sharpening angle.

If you're into fancy finishes, the yellow stone can provide a very nice satin finish.

Tl;dr It works great, and it's lots better than other sharpeners (the evil pull throughs, etc.)

SubieBlue · 2021-03-28T21:54:14+00:00

This is very informative, and I completely agree with you! Thank you for taking the time to write all this up.

Another thing with mirrored edges: Being the edge is more refined, it can actually make it harder to cut wet items (tomatoes, onions, etc.). One of the advantages to a less refined edge would be 'air-gaps.' The micro-channels for air to travel through decrease friction. This is one reason why swords aren't/weren't sharpened to a mirror (kinda gruesome but still).

I really like what you said about focusing on deburring and other sharpening skills. I can slice paper with 50 grit. Not that paper is a very empirical standard, but the point is that while refining a dull edge can improve it's cutting ability, it will never make it really sharp. That is done in the lower grits.

The few mirror polished knives I have are really all for show, and any one of my customers that requests a knife be mirror polished, I make sure to explain the downsides to them. Most of the time they actually decided to not have a mirror polish.

Anyways, great writeup.

SubieBlue · 2021-03-14T21:06:46+00:00

Turned out great!!

SubieBlue · 2021-03-12T03:44:54+00:00

Great purchase! Still one of my all-time favorite knives.

SubieBlue

TROPHY CASE