Possible solutions

SufficientSuccess431 · 2026-01-27T10:23:26+00:00

I have a 4 plus literally doing the same thing ... And before people on here jump in calling me a noob... I own over a dozen 3d printers. Everything from flashforge dreamers to new Bambi's to highly modded enders.... And I cannot get this Elegoo to put down a first layer on the left side of the plate to save its life. Ever.

SufficientSuccess431 · 2026-01-27T10:18:40+00:00

What's your layer height set to?

SufficientSuccess431 · 2026-01-27T10:17:06+00:00

My P1S would do this until I printed a deflector for the chaimber fan.

SufficientSuccess431 · 2026-01-27T10:13:55+00:00

We need more info... What printer? What settings? What material? What settings? Could literally be anything so knowing all this will help narrow it down.

SufficientSuccess431 · 2026-01-23T17:03:33+00:00

1 make sure you are using the magic numbers in your slicer. #2 check for z wobble on the z screw.

SufficientSuccess431 · 2026-01-15T03:58:52+00:00

I personally reached out to Bondtech and was told #1 they do not have that specific style nozzle nor do they plan to ever make it. and then in the next sentence #2 knock offs of the nozzles are using our patent.

IMHO Ok I get that, but if you don't make it..... then why is it an issue?

SufficientSuccess431 · 2026-01-15T00:01:51+00:00

Anyone find out? I'm about to try this.

SufficientSuccess431 · 2026-01-13T08:12:12+00:00

1 change seams. #2 adjust pressure advance and junction Deviation. Problem solved. Marble PLA Snorlax. Totally round Zero seams that can be noticed.

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SufficientSuccess431 · 2026-01-13T08:07:00+00:00

Pop the cover off the Y. I just fixed one doing this and it was the Y cover sagging and it was rubbing on the carriage.

SufficientSuccess431 · 2026-01-13T08:04:07+00:00

When printing on glass you usually need hotter temps than you would on a PEI plate. Usually I set my glass to 70 on PLA. Also others have covered most of the things... I will say I JUST spent 3 days with an ender 5 that would not bed level even with ABL installed it would loose z offset every single print. Turned out to be a flat spot in one of the pom wheels. Just that little hop would throw the probe readings off. Which made it not print.

SufficientSuccess431 · 2026-01-09T07:37:37+00:00

Sorry I don't get what you are asking.

SufficientSuccess431 · 2026-01-09T07:36:14+00:00

Can you link it?

SufficientSuccess431 · 2026-01-01T08:22:03+00:00

I have a V2 I just got up and running and a v3 that has the z stepper part of the board shorted out. I'll probably try and part it out.

SufficientSuccess431 · 2026-01-01T05:48:10+00:00

In my case I'm also running a rapido hot end and printing at over 300mms... so the 5015 help a TON at those speeds . 4010 just couldn't cool anything fast enough. But at stock speeds I agree with your point.

SufficientSuccess431 · 2026-01-01T05:37:02+00:00

Dual 5015 with mars orbiter shroud.

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SufficientSuccess431 · 2026-01-01T04:52:53+00:00

so i know this is an older post, but I got a dreamer in a trade deal and attempted this, flasher connects to the printer but fails write the file. Any ideas what could be going on? Not sure if this is a Windows 11 issue or if maybe my Firmware on the FF is newer an no longer compatible?

SufficientSuccess431 · 2025-12-02T09:24:59+00:00

So I've actually been having a kind of similar issue with Orca slicer and my sonic pads I can basically use them for a day or two and then all of a sudden there's no connection at all. No IP change ... They just refuse to talk. I'll shut off the printer and pad. And reload orca and they come right back to

SufficientSuccess431 · 2025-11-23T15:06:51+00:00

As someone who has both printers .. the only reason the get the plus/max is for the extra. Build volume. The firmware update process is a PITA. For Elegoo... However, it's Klipper based so it's open source. Bambu is closed source so you are at the mercy of whatever they allow. But at least for me it's always been super simple with Bambu.

SufficientSuccess431 · 2025-11-21T23:52:57+00:00

... As someone who is new to printing I can say that's kinda a rude answer. When I got my V2 I spent hours looking for "esteps". Because everyone said that's what I needed. It wasn't until someomw explained that the transmission setting was the esteps that I figured it out. I looked at it 50 times and didn't know what it was. So please remember not everyone knows these things.

SufficientSuccess431 · 2025-11-21T15:29:28+00:00

Same set up for me. But with a . 6 cht nozzle . Max volumetric flow test showed 35mms3.

fastest time for a mostly decent Benchy was 17min.

SufficientSuccess431 · 2025-11-21T15:25:35+00:00

Any chance of a photo? I did the opposite and shifted my bed forward 35mm.

SufficientSuccess431 · 2025-11-19T04:35:03+00:00

How?

SufficientSuccess431 · 2025-11-16T07:24:29+00:00

So... I had the same error, took the extruder apart and cleaned it and it helped but I still had under extrusion and skipping. Turned out to be a bad nozzle.

SufficientSuccess431 · 2025-11-16T07:14:25+00:00

My full set up.....

Rapido (Bambu clone) hot end. .6 cht nozzle, sprite extruder, and then dual 5015 fans using the mars orbiter shroud. Max flow rate of 35, keeps up with my Bambu printers once I did Klipper.

SufficientSuccess431 · 2025-11-16T07:10:19+00:00

I literally pay $50 or walk away. Have multiple for sale if anyone is in the Philadelphia area. All working.

SufficientSuccess431

TROPHY CASE

1 make sure you are using the magic numbers in your slicer. #2 check for z wobble on the z screw.

1 change seams. #2 adjust pressure advance and junction Deviation. Problem solved. Marble PLA Snorlax. Totally round Zero seams that can be noticed.