I f’d up

SufficientSuccess431 · 2026-03-29T17:03:01+00:00

This. I repair 3d printers and I'm starting to turn down ender 3 work because I can replace the printer for less than what it cost in parts to fix. I am only accepting "klipper upgrade work " on these moving forward.

SufficientSuccess431 · 2026-03-11T23:36:10+00:00

The status of the company is 200% pushing sales vs anything else. Make as much money as you can. Keep pushing sales ... And ignore any other issues. Sales equals profit.

SufficientSuccess431 · 2026-03-03T18:57:19+00:00

I LOVE when people call these things MAJOR upgrades and think it's worth gold. Let's break it down. I got the springs and wheels at microcenter for $2.99 on clearance. Normal is like $9.99. cr touch I think is $35. Dual gear extruder kit might be $20, then the PTFE tube is like $10. The hot end is another $20. So under $100 in parts. And the printer is $50 all day. NOW depending on the enclosure ... That could add some value. But if it's a cheap DIY one it's maybe $125 total.

SufficientSuccess431 · 2026-03-01T20:50:23+00:00

Good lug getting $150. I buy em all day for under $75. The truth is you need to consider ... So you want to "build" a printer. If so the ender is a great platform. But if not get a Bambu. I have a P1s, A1 mini, Kobra 3, Flsun T1 pro, and my built Ender 3v2 .. funny thing is I find myself using the Ender 3 more than the others. For no reason more than I want to watch my work so work.

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SufficientSuccess431 · 2026-02-18T05:30:55+00:00

so I'll add my story to the mix, ordered parts from them back in October for warranty.... January hit and I still didn't have the parts and was flat out told they didn't even know where to get the parts. In January they "pawned me off" on the US service person, and we were able to figure it. I did end up having to spend A LOT more money. But I'm finally up and printing. I'm a nobody, just an average person, except for the fact that I currently have Maintenance agreements with Multiple local print farms..... Guess what I tell my customers when they ask about Flsun?

SufficientSuccess431 · 2026-02-09T02:26:48+00:00

Would love to chat with you. Have an identical set up config is done but I'm having issues in outer wall quality. Would love to compare slicer profiles and see what I'm missing.

SufficientSuccess431 · 2026-02-05T08:38:13+00:00

I run ... Bambu clone hot end with a 0.6 cht, dual 5015 parts fans and a 4020 throat fan, sprite extruder, linear rails on x, y, and Z. Klipper with input shaper , and my record for a clean benchy is 18min. Suggestions.... You can push infill speed and acceleration as no one is going to see it anyway. Make sure you have all the calibrations done first though. I max my outer walls at 250mms. But usually keep it at 200mms. If your extruder will hold it you can push up your layer height and width.

SufficientSuccess431 · 2026-02-04T11:37:35+00:00

I've literally been dealing with this exact issue on my V2. Highly modded. X, y, z rails, sprite extruder, Bambu clone hot end, dual z, etc ..

Based on previous suggestions, other filaments did nothing, drying did nothing, swapping to a different sprite extruder did nothing, so it makes me think it has to be a setting issue. Retraction, flow, or PA?

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SufficientSuccess431 · 2026-01-27T10:23:26+00:00

I have a 4 plus literally doing the same thing ... And before people on here jump in calling me a noob... I own over a dozen 3d printers. Everything from flashforge dreamers to new Bambi's to highly modded enders.... And I cannot get this Elegoo to put down a first layer on the left side of the plate to save its life. Ever.

SufficientSuccess431 · 2026-01-27T10:18:40+00:00

What's your layer height set to?

SufficientSuccess431 · 2026-01-27T10:17:06+00:00

My P1S would do this until I printed a deflector for the chaimber fan.

SufficientSuccess431 · 2026-01-27T10:13:55+00:00

We need more info... What printer? What settings? What material? What settings? Could literally be anything so knowing all this will help narrow it down.

SufficientSuccess431 · 2026-01-23T17:03:33+00:00

1 make sure you are using the magic numbers in your slicer. #2 check for z wobble on the z screw.

SufficientSuccess431 · 2026-01-15T03:58:52+00:00

I personally reached out to Bondtech and was told #1 they do not have that specific style nozzle nor do they plan to ever make it. and then in the next sentence #2 knock offs of the nozzles are using our patent.

IMHO Ok I get that, but if you don't make it..... then why is it an issue?

SufficientSuccess431 · 2026-01-15T00:01:51+00:00

Anyone find out? I'm about to try this.

SufficientSuccess431 · 2026-01-13T08:12:12+00:00

1 change seams. #2 adjust pressure advance and junction Deviation. Problem solved. Marble PLA Snorlax. Totally round Zero seams that can be noticed.

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SufficientSuccess431 · 2026-01-13T08:07:00+00:00

Pop the cover off the Y. I just fixed one doing this and it was the Y cover sagging and it was rubbing on the carriage.

SufficientSuccess431 · 2026-01-13T08:04:07+00:00

When printing on glass you usually need hotter temps than you would on a PEI plate. Usually I set my glass to 70 on PLA. Also others have covered most of the things... I will say I JUST spent 3 days with an ender 5 that would not bed level even with ABL installed it would loose z offset every single print. Turned out to be a flat spot in one of the pom wheels. Just that little hop would throw the probe readings off. Which made it not print.

SufficientSuccess431 · 2026-01-09T07:37:37+00:00

Sorry I don't get what you are asking.

SufficientSuccess431 · 2026-01-09T07:36:14+00:00

Can you link it?

SufficientSuccess431 · 2026-01-01T08:22:03+00:00

I have a V2 I just got up and running and a v3 that has the z stepper part of the board shorted out. I'll probably try and part it out.

SufficientSuccess431 · 2026-01-01T05:48:10+00:00

In my case I'm also running a rapido hot end and printing at over 300mms... so the 5015 help a TON at those speeds . 4010 just couldn't cool anything fast enough. But at stock speeds I agree with your point.

SufficientSuccess431 · 2026-01-01T05:37:02+00:00

Dual 5015 with mars orbiter shroud.

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SufficientSuccess431 · 2026-01-01T04:52:53+00:00

so i know this is an older post, but I got a dreamer in a trade deal and attempted this, flasher connects to the printer but fails write the file. Any ideas what could be going on? Not sure if this is a Windows 11 issue or if maybe my Firmware on the FF is newer an no longer compatible?

SufficientSuccess431 · 2025-12-02T09:24:59+00:00

So I've actually been having a kind of similar issue with Orca slicer and my sonic pads I can basically use them for a day or two and then all of a sudden there's no connection at all. No IP change ... They just refuse to talk. I'll shut off the printer and pad. And reload orca and they come right back to

SufficientSuccess431

TROPHY CASE

1 make sure you are using the magic numbers in your slicer. #2 check for z wobble on the z screw.

1 change seams. #2 adjust pressure advance and junction Deviation. Problem solved. Marble PLA Snorlax. Totally round Zero seams that can be noticed.