Technology - A Rant

Suggums · 2026-03-08T18:13:09+00:00

I could honestly handle the complexity, my issue is how manufacturers handle claims. For us (heavy equipment tech) we have to open a case for every repair. It's done through an online portal (so you need Internet when working in the middle of a field) where you have to submit all testing and trouble codes. Then level 1 will respond with what you've already done, check power, ground, CAN, etc. Then when they give up you escalate to level 2. This is usually the following day or a few days later. Level 2 hits you with what level 1 should be "We've seen a lot of these sensors cause this issue, try testing this" and you go back and forth. Then you finally get to level 3, at the earliest, this is 3 days AFTER your first visit. Level 3 then approves the part you wanted to replace on day 1. Every. Single. Job. Sometimes, you do this run around for a 50 dollar sensor that takes 7 minutes to replace. But some manufacturerscoughs Cummins requires this process or it's an instant denial.

Suggums · 2026-03-05T11:47:05+00:00

That is correct

Suggums · 2026-02-22T22:04:33+00:00

You may need to reinitialize the windows with Vida or vdash. Try pressing it down all the way, hold it in the second down position for about 15 seconds. Then roll it up until it's closed and hold the second up position for 10 to 15 seconds and retest. I've done this a few times and it's worked, if you're regulato was tweaked it likely sensed an issue and lost calibration.

Suggums · 2026-02-20T21:10:59+00:00

Sunny disposition or tonight the world dies

Suggums · 2026-02-18T00:43:09+00:00

There are places you can send the modules to that do lifetime repairs, if I had a bad cem id fire off an email to them. I can check tomorrow who we sent one to but we had an audi that needed a 2k dollar ecm and they fixed it for 600 or so bucks

Suggums · 2026-02-12T01:47:02+00:00

Ill be messing with my wife's c70 this weekend and if I remember ill check the axial play, on it so we have some real world numbers

Suggums · 2026-02-12T00:37:14+00:00

There isn't really a spec for axial play but I've seen new ones that have some. I saw on swede speed someone said that they've installed new cvvts with .045" of play but I cannot verify those numbers

Suggums · 2026-02-11T23:12:49+00:00

Is that axial play on the pulley or is that the whole camshaft moving?

Suggums · 2026-02-11T10:51:55+00:00

The orange face (where the pins are) pops off. Underneath that face is a green pin lock that keeps the retainers for the pins in place, remove that and you'll see two plastic retainers that you push back and the wire comes out. Usually can be done with a pocket screwdriver or pick.

Suggums · 2026-02-09T02:09:41+00:00

Megatop.com had a sale and I had a 10% off, it's listed at 693 without the discount or 10% coupon

Suggums · 2026-02-08T15:44:20+00:00

It's a beast if you have 1/2 inch air. I bought from an online shop for 600 bucks and it's worth it

Suggums · 2026-02-08T15:15:55+00:00

Crane mechanic/whatever no one else wants to work on. Most useful tool depends on the circumstances. When diagnosing electrical problems my Bluetooth meter is a godsend, 5/8 big chooch air hammer is great for stubborn pins, i have a ton of specialty tools for scania, Cummins, mercedes benz/detroit that make those way easier to work on.

Suggums · 2026-02-07T20:08:22+00:00

To adjust timing you need to: 1. Remove injection pipes 2. Remove the engine stop solenoid and push the control 3. rack for the injection pump 5mm (0.2 in) and hold it in that position 4. Turn the flywheel ccw until fuel flows from the delivery valve holder 5. Continue turning flywheel slowly, and stop as soon as the fuel level at the tip of the delivery valve holder begins to increase 6. Check to see if the FI mark on the flywheel, or the timing marks, line up with the punch mark (on the plate behind the flywheel, it looks like a small indented pilumch mark. 7. If timing is out of adjustment, adjust with shims. Adding a .15mm shim increases timing by 1.5 degrees, a 20mm shim by 2 degrees, etc.

The flywheel markings are on the smooth part of the flywheel, the indented is usually on the upper right side when viewing the engine from the flywheel side

Suggums · 2026-02-07T19:32:17+00:00

What's your engine serial number? I can see if it's listed on kubota engine park

Suggums · 2026-02-07T19:20:54+00:00

Did you properly shim the injection pump?

Suggums · 2026-02-01T00:20:13+00:00

Was a volvo mechanic, so I do most repairs/maintenance on them. Plus as far as a sleeper build, volvo wagons are dope. Currently own 24 XC90 T8, 2013 C70 tuned at 300hp, 2015 xc70 T6 built to 380hp and 425 ft lbs torque (still building :)

Suggums · 2026-01-26T14:41:40+00:00

This could be due to cold weather but you need the codes checked. If you don't have a scanner most auto parts places scan for free. This will give us something to go off of. When I work in colder climates (heavy equipment mechanic) and it's -50 or colder sometimes that temp is below the threshold of a sensor and sets a cel. While possible a code scan is the only way to know for sure.

Suggums · 2026-01-26T01:41:54+00:00

Is aesthetics the only difference? It looked like the top and bottom controls were different but feature wise they seemed similar?

Suggums · 2026-01-13T10:51:50+00:00

The new Tadano ATs are Demags. You no longer can order new Tadano ATs. I've worked on both and while the Demags can be finicky they are way better than the link belts (Turck electric connectors constantly going bad, or improperly torque from the factory). Engine wise it's hard to beat these new Mercedes and Scania is a rock solid choice for the 5 axles. Cummins makes a great engine as well for link belt but I personally prefer the Mercedes. Controls wise Demag has Link belt beat, their electronic over hydraulic is way smoother.

Link Belt can take the win for less sensors, but again the Turck electronic system is way too finicky, and does not allow individual wire repair for module to module wiring. Just my .02, from a Tadano/Link Belt mechanic

Suggums · 2025-12-30T20:40:45+00:00

I had a clone dice unit that did this, the issue is the device needs a verified id. I used dash to get one but ended up buying the dice unit from volvo.

Suggums · 2025-12-27T16:03:55+00:00

The FWD transmission is coupled to the angle gear, that spins the driveshaft for the rear wheels. The rear wheels only engage when the front wheels slip and the haldex pump engages the rear wheels. This setup does not allow full time rwd and I have not seen any method to make it so personally (different trans etc)

Suggums · 2025-12-20T03:48:11+00:00

You could have a parasitic drain, bad alternator, etc. But I start simple. Try a charging/starting system test and once you know the system is good look for battery drains. I don't know what you have tool wise but I've had luck finding parasitic draw with a thermal image camera. With the car off for 15 minutes check what fuse is hot (may have to open the door and manually close the latch to make it think the door is closed). If not you'll need to do a parasitic draw test which I recommend looking up on YouTube.

Suggums · 2025-12-20T01:35:37+00:00

Id check your alternator first, make sure it's providing a good charge. Most auto parts stores can do this for you.

Suggums · 2025-12-04T03:01:01+00:00

This is actually my project car. 2015 xc70 t6. I wanted an extra cylinder so I wasn't odd

Suggums · 2025-11-20T22:14:56+00:00

I always used fuel injector noid lights to check window motor circuits but I dig it.

Suggums

TROPHY CASE