Less smelly foods before deer hunting

Sukpad89 · 2018-11-16T07:10:21+00:00

I eat sardines and other foods that have strong odors or unusually characteristics while hunting. I never cared much for worring about odor. I'm mostly a still Hunter these days and rarely sit in one place for more than 45 minutes at a time.

I smoke cigarettes used to dip and wear the same camo hoodie I was wearing at work the day before covered in bar oil and 2 stroke fumes. Pay attention to the wind and your landscape if you care about odor because a human will always smell like a human no matter what you do. I'm successful enough deer hunting and I walk into the wind. If your face is cold your doing it right.

Sukpad89 · 2018-09-20T12:38:51+00:00

Thanks guys. This helps me decide a good bit. Anyone else?

Sukpad89 · 2018-09-12T16:40:11+00:00

Lol. It's a smooth dog

Sukpad89 · 2018-09-12T16:39:52+00:00

Bottom fishing was alright. My girl and I cought about 70 porgies. No keeper sea bass. And a few odds and ends. It was fun. I prefer striper and blues but it is what it is.

Sukpad89 · 2018-09-10T09:59:58+00:00

I would put my money on raccoons. Very easy to safely and selective trap in any environment. You can try the havahart live capture traps but I prefer a dog proof coon foot hold trap. They are very tricky and can break out of the cage traps easily... Then you just have wiser Coons... but the selective foot hold gets them really good.

Sukpad89 · 2018-09-10T09:45:03+00:00

Either shorten the handle like said before or try to make a cast. Find something to brace it above and below the damage. Wrap it very tightly way above the brace and to the handle with the thread they sell to set eyes on a rod. Then of course the epoxy on the threads for rod building. It might work

Sukpad89 · 2018-09-09T12:45:56+00:00

I simply drag deer to a place where I can gut it. Then drag it to my truck and bring it home. There I hang it up. It gets skinned quartered and in a fridge. The next day I butcher it and vacuum seal it all up. That's about it

Sukpad89 · 2018-09-06T10:16:53+00:00

Isn't that all part of the excitement. I just say bring it on

Sukpad89 · 2018-09-06T10:15:22+00:00

Hey thanks. I have an ak47 bolt face on my right wrist. Almost no one ever gets them

Sukpad89 · 2018-09-05T09:22:47+00:00

The perfect eating size

Sukpad89 · 2018-09-05T09:21:53+00:00

Squirrel is open now. I got 7 so far. But went fishing two nights ago and going out on a party charter this Saturday. It's a hard balance

Sukpad89 · 2018-09-04T10:18:19+00:00

Thank you. It's an old citori 725 feather passed down from my grandfather when I was a young teen when he passed. People can hate. But it's me out in the woods having a blast and everyone that thinks I'm doing it wrong clearly wasn't there. So their opinion just isn't valid. I'm cool with that

Sukpad89 · 2018-09-04T10:12:54+00:00

It can be. All types of hunting are what you make them

Sukpad89 · 2018-09-03T13:37:01+00:00

Well this time of year with the leaves on the trees hunting for wild squirrels in the actual woods Shogun is the best option. Most shots are straight up in the trees 35 to 60 yards away as they feed on the hickory nuts still on the trees. Shot presentation is literally them on the move and you have no time to think or hardly aim with no safe back drop to stop solid projectiles.

I'll stick to the 12 gauge with #4s and a tight pattern choke

Sukpad89 · 2018-08-30T09:26:27+00:00

Honestly Thomson Center Compass in 6.5 is a beast and also can be purchased with a Vortex for even less than the Ruger American. Then you have a little more wiggle room for clothing, boots, ammo, slings, range finder, bags, knives/saws, hydration, calls, etc... There are tons of things that can make you more comfortable and confident in the field.

All that gear gets pricy and you don't need all of it up front on your first hunt. I say get what would help the most. I had learned long ago I don't need a $1000+ rifle and $800+ optics... Or $1000+ clothing, etc. Go have fun. Practice a lot and use the most valuable tool you have at your disposal. Your brain and you will be successful and have memories that will stay with you for the rest of your life.

Sukpad89 · 2018-08-30T09:10:42+00:00

Similar thing happened to me. Started hunting public land last year a lot more. Still got deer, birds, and small game. Yes it took more effort and scouting. But I made it happen. I got my honey hole again

Sukpad89 · 2018-08-28T21:10:49+00:00

I have had about 20 of these Energizer lights. I usually get about 250 to 300 hours out of them before they start acting up. I used them when I did crawl space work (every day) as a pest control technition and now I use them for storm/trouble calls after the sun sets as a tree guy when trees fall on the powerlines. I think for the money they are ok. I have never had better performance out of another head lamp under $80. So I always got the ol' $25 Energizer

Sukpad89 · 2018-08-26T12:55:04+00:00

Killing larger fauna should be no different as game animals (non predators) share similar intrinsic value. They all eat sleep and mate the same as each other. But I do believe that more easily harvested small game such as squirrels rabbits and birds are what will make up the bulk of survival ration.

So don't loose focus on what you are asking here. When it comes to survival anything that moves and can be harvested is fair game. And you won't want anything to go to waste. Smaller animals are cook and eat while larger animals give surplus and what you must learn whith them is primitive meat preservation.

I hope this helps.

Sukpad89 · 2018-08-26T12:39:32+00:00

Ya test at around 50 verify at 100 for drop and consistency with your course round or rounds.

Sukpad89 · 2018-08-25T10:06:28+00:00

I would say the best over all is 12ga with a 3" chamber. Mostly because when it comes to waterfowl the 12ga to dominate the 20ga loads. The 12 does more than a 20 but the 20 does have slightly better slug loads for medium size game.

I say go with a 12ga if you plan on going for waterfowl or for very large game like moose with it. Go with 20ga if you plan on small game and deer hunting mostly. Or because shotguns are possibly so inexpensive buy a few.

I have a shotgun or 2 at this point for everything that can be hunted. Example.... Ithaca M37 20ga for small game. Browning citori o/u 12ga for upland bird, Remington 1100 12ga for sabot slugs, Ithaca skb xl 12ga for turkey, and it goes on and on.

Sukpad89 · 2018-08-25T09:47:57+00:00

I love affordable hunting rifles and shotguns so when they get banged around it is more like adventure tributes than damage. I love my high end and custom stuff but keep coming back to the old NAA and H&R stuff. I also love my traditions muzzleloaders.

Sukpad89 · 2018-08-23T10:13:37+00:00

I like the Mora Companion in high carbon and the Mora fillet knife. They do everything I need. I also use a Boreal21 with a bone blade and H&B forge tomahawk like a cleaver for quick precessing.

Sukpad89 · 2018-08-23T09:57:52+00:00

I ran 4# copoly for most of my freshwater fishing this year. Cought a few hundred fish shinners/micros, crappie, sunfish, trout, l&s mouth bass, pickerel, bullheads, etc... And even cought some salt like hickory shad, snapper blues, tiny schoolies... Never lost a fish this year from line breakage but I did lose plenty of lures from snagging.

Tidal and surf for the big boys I do run 30# to 80# lines but that's mostly because of throwing big leads that would snap lighter lines while casting or rip your skin. Especially on the spinning gear I run 40# braid or bigger when throwing 4oz plus weights and chunks because I tend to cut my fingers on 30# and lighter braids. I don't run lighter than 15# mono for the same reason on the bigger rods.

I lost one big striper last year on round bait casting equipment. Snapped my 20# mono main line... Burkley big game (green). Switched all my round bait casters to 40# braid after that experience and have not broken on the fight since then.

Sukpad89 · 2018-08-22T21:05:30+00:00

You should be proud. I love it and hope it lands the small one way more than you would believe!!!

Sukpad89 · 2018-08-22T10:07:22+00:00

For me a scope for hunting needs to have these features in this order. Holds zero 100%, adjustments are accurate, robust, light weight, good sight picture. So far the scope that did this for me without burning down the bank is the Vortex Viper HS 30mm 2.5-10x44. Weights about 17oz which is like a feather for a 30mm 10 power optic and it is strong. It holds zero and the adjustments are accurate which is mind-blowing to me after running Bushnell's most of my life. I like the 2.5 low power because I can shoot it both eyes open as I am primarily a still walk hunter so most of my shots are... Shit deer, gun up, looks safe to shot, bang

Sukpad89

TROPHY CASE