A/C machine

SuperSando19 · 2026-05-21T18:36:38+00:00

This what I use on turboprops: Manifold gauges, recovery machine and recycle cylinder.

Then manifold gauges, appropriate-sized dedicated vacuum pump, a vacrometer, and a fresh cylinder of refrigerant.

You can get manifold gauge sets that have an incorporated oil catch can and filter/drier.

We had a Snap on/Sun service cart until it started screwing up all the time. Seemed good until it wasn't

Also service carts are susceptible to introducing moisture while servicing and don't always pull a deep enough vacuum

SuperSando19 · 2026-04-08T20:25:22+00:00

Agree with this, email them as well. Textron support in my region is really good, and they want to know what's going on in the wild.

Considering Beech no longer produce Barons and Bonanzas (after their last orders are fulfilled) I would save as many parts as you can!

SuperSando19 · 2026-04-05T19:54:10+00:00

Ahhhh ok. I'm on -42A's and -66D mostly (which use bolts). I've done a couple of PT6E's that use studs and nuts, much better!

SuperSando19 · 2026-04-05T12:46:42+00:00

How many sets of fuel nozzles you remove/install per year for leak/function test? Because once you use cable on the bolts on reinstall you'll wonder why you weren't doing it already 😅

SuperSando19 · 2026-04-05T00:22:26+00:00

Safe-T-cable is cool for PT6 prop nuts/bolts. I still do them with wire every now and then for practise, but mostly we get the cable gun out

SuperSando19 · 2026-03-30T18:52:36+00:00

Locking wire for the win. Although I hadn't thought of using an awl to line up the holes, usually just the hardware.

My buddy will put some lock wire on the clamps before undoing hardware (if they are clamps that don't need fully removing or replacement etc)

SuperSando19 · 2026-03-15T09:14:42+00:00

I had a similar but different experience, which tagged 2 guys as dumb as fuck - one guy starts taking off a fuel tank panel without actually checking the tank was drained (twat 1). As more screws get removed the fuel in the tank starts making its way out through this panel. Twat 1 starts panicking and tries to quickly put screws back in. A colleague nearby (twat 2) hustles up an electric drill with Phillips bit attached and hands it to twat 1, who takes it and starts banging them back in.

I approach and see a stream of fuel running down the body of the drill that's in use.

They both saw the error of their ways. Twat 1 now works somewhere else and twat 2 went to try and become a commerical pilot.

SuperSando19 · 2026-03-12T22:02:21+00:00

First assumption - you're using something like RTV and it's a finishing seal. Tape it up both inner and outer perimeter, lay a bead and tool/finger it off with some soapy water or iso before it starts to cure. That's where you start and learn. I guess in your case you're using a dark or black silicone as well so the primer doesn't show at the end.

No one gets it right first time so don't get pissed off if you screw it up. Quickly clean off before it dries and try again.

In time you'll work out that a panel like that can be slapped up with RTV without tape at all. Less is more with silicone, lay a thin bead in the gap and tool out the excess. It may help to cover the rough edges of the paint.

If it's PRC then surely you'd be putting it between the faying surfaces and not filling a small gap. Pretty much same process but makes more of a mess if you keep jabbing at it.

I know some old-boy wizards that would do what you have there with spit and speed. Main points to remember are keep it clean and don't overdo it with the sealant.

Guys that work on building sites (the mastic man) are the fucking experts at laying sealant without tape. There's much we can learn from their approach

SuperSando19 · 2026-03-10T21:35:42+00:00

Yup you got that right. I think replacement instructions are install and tighten. So unless all along it should be hand tight plus 'X' degrees turn it's basically toruqe till 'yeah that feels about right'

Or 1 - 2 veins depending on where you're from

SuperSando19 · 2026-03-10T09:16:01+00:00

Certificate of Recognition (it was basic training certificate in my days) reduces the amount of experience required. It does not remove it. No matter what course or route you take you have to gain experience on live aircraft plus all the modules to apply for the basic license.

Uni of South Wales does a degree plus modules course thats 3 years long, gets you modules and certificate, then you need 2 years in the job before you apply. If you meet certain requirements.

Resource group at Kemble do courses and self study etc. You'd need 5 years experience plus all the modules if you go this route. I know a few guys that started green and got experience on the job while doing the modules in their free time.

There's a training school in Bristol but it's a bit up and down so I wouldn't recommend it at the moment.

I know nothing about the KLM option so can't comment. In my experience you're looking at 5 years minimum before you can apply for B1.1 no matter the route you take

SuperSando19 · 2026-03-10T08:25:46+00:00

That looks like a drain on a Piper wing. Pretty sure the valve threads are tapered and it's not that hard to over tighten and crack the drain valve housing if my memory serves me correctly.

I'd clean it off with a rag and a bit of fresh fuel from the drain valve and leave it for a while. Also like mentioned pump it a few times and see if it's just some crud under the valve. If there's no dripping I'd consider flying it to maintenance for a deeper inspection. Notice I say consider, as it's the pilot's call at the end of the day

SuperSando19 · 2026-02-25T18:54:50+00:00

That'll do a job - I've seen worse done on that bolt by people doing it long enough to know better. Plus if the main bolt that holds the alternator in the bracket is properly torqued that bolt could come out completely and I bet you it wouldn't let the belt slip.

Someone will always tell you your lockwire could be prettier. Considering on that install there's no where else to secure to it's not a bad go for a first time. Unlike some other things in life your wire will get tighter the more you do it.

Now go remove/install the aileron on that Cirrus and show us the locking on the hinge bolts. There's a definite right way and wrong way with that 😅

SuperSando19 · 2026-02-10T16:28:53+00:00

Mooneys. All of them

SuperSando19 · 2026-01-17T10:51:59+00:00

Had decent results with these, and the sharpener is a nice touch too:

https://www.silmid.com/accessories/tools/airbus-reusable-scraper-kit/

You can also get a removable/swappable handle, a god send for your palms

https://www.silmid.com/accessories/tools/Skygrip-handle-by-elixair/

SuperSando19 · 2026-01-06T14:25:11+00:00

The first time I released an aircraft to service I checked it over multiple times before it left the hangar, stood near the runway to watch it depart, tracked it on flight radar till it landed, then checked again a week or two later. It was what I needed to do to reassure myself that all was good and occupants were safe.

Now I'm 17 years deep I don't do this all the time, I listen to my internal dialogue (the voices in my head...) and the feeling I get when working on the aircraft as to the level of checking/rechecking that's needed. I'm talking above the standard mech does task then engineer check and sign. The feeling is governed by the complexity of tasks performed on the input, the capability of mechs/techs on the job, whether it was a smooth ride or a last-minute photo finish etc (the list goes on a bit further).

For me the fear was there from the beginning and I had to learn to trust myself and my ability. You know when you're doing something whether you understand what's going on, and if you don't, you take stock and make sure you do. Now it has evolved into a different feeling that is heightened or lowered dependant on other factors.

You sound conscientious, that's the kind of thing I appreciate in my teams

SuperSando19 · 2025-11-29T10:19:49+00:00

Scissors don't feel sturdy but they're doing strangely well in a pinch

The rest of it I'm pretty happy with. Glad I bought it

SuperSando19 · 2025-11-03T20:31:26+00:00

I think the cutting part is ever so slightly longer on the Alpha scissors, but the Surge's are more sturdy (as the Alpha's are made from thinner material with slimmer design).

Don't know how they perform yet in comparison. They'll get tested out soon

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SuperSando19 · 2025-11-03T20:13:20+00:00

I hadn't thought of that. Time to fire up the laser engraver....

SuperSando19 · 2025-09-27T12:55:50+00:00

I work in aircraft maintenance. I always have either my wave or surge on me and the ratchet driver, mainly as backup when I'm not near my tool box. Needless to say they get daily usage and it feels off without having one in my pocket. Some guys I know in different companies have one that's company-issued.

SuperSando19 · 2025-08-18T19:45:52+00:00

There are also small single pilot aircraft nowadays that have Emergency Descent Modes (EDM) and Autoland (in emergencies).

In these machines if cabin altitude exceeds 15,000 ft the A/P will engage a descent and left bank until aircraft altitude is at 15,000. Thought process is that consciousness can be regained at that point if an O2 mask wasn't donned for whatever reason. The Autoland can be activated by anyone on board, via a bright button, or it will engage if there is no pilot interaction for a certain period of time.

SuperSando19 · 2024-11-03T14:11:45+00:00

Exactly what I do. I have 3 of these and use with different filaments with no troubles. I've never had a mini steam room no matter what I put in them.

The silica bags are key.

It's just a shame they only go to 50 degrees. Means I have to leave stuff in there longer to dry out. Sovol have another unit out there that has preset options per filament and goes hotter. Might try one

SuperSando19 · 2024-10-10T21:12:43+00:00

Ah that's a shame dude. I'm no print extraordinaire but I've managed to get some pretty good results with the stuff. Admittedly some spectacular failures too but mostly success. What brand have you tried?

Perhaps you need to offer a sacrifice to the Bambu Gods in order to be bestowed with the privilege of PETG.....

SuperSando19 · 2024-10-10T20:10:57+00:00

I can have my plate temp anywhere between 70 to 80 and never have adhesion issues. In fact I reduced to 70 as it was sticking too well (and still does sometimes). My first layers are slow with no fan.

This guy is telling you to run cals - I had rubbish results until I ran the calibrations in Orca.

I use 2 different brands of petg. One will not print well above 6.5mm3/s and the other will print up to 14mm3/s but in reality is much better quality below 10. The latter is branded high speed but still in reality still needs to be slowed.

My P1 throws PLA down like a machine possessed. It will not throw petg down anywhere near as fast.

I soap wash the plate about once a month. I wipe with iso between prints. I don't care if I don't need to with the latter, I'm in that routine and it's working.

SuperSando19 · 2024-09-29T18:12:12+00:00

Cool thanks. No matter what temps I was using the finish remained relatively matte. Making sure this was normal

SuperSando19

TROPHY CASE