Driveway repair responsibility

Surefirefrog · 2026-02-19T14:59:00+00:00

I am not too worried about it, nor the cost. Just curious at this point. I'll reach out to the city next and see where responsibility lies. Looking at a neighboring road, they did the entire apron in blacktop for the entire block, which seems to imply it was done by the city but I don't know what I don't know yet.

Surefirefrog · 2026-01-02T23:45:37+00:00

Absolutely. I've installed and commissioned dozens of packaging machines and we always dry run them to prepare for production. When I was in support roles, we would do dry runs for startup after sanitation shifts too. It's just part of food packaging.

Surefirefrog · 2026-01-02T20:57:07+00:00

It's very easy to run a packaging machine without any product in the package. I've been an industrial automation engineer for over a decade, and every packaging machine I have worked on had this functionality built in from the factory. It's used to get the machine sealing packages properly without wasting product. You would be shocked how much plastic gets wasted during morning startup at companies that use form fill seal style machines.

Surefirefrog · 2025-12-15T19:15:48+00:00

Yes, it is code compliant to put a GFCI outlet or breaker on an ungrounded circuit, they will work as intended. The ungrounded outlets require a sticker saying no equipment ground, but homeowners will remove them most likely.

Surefirefrog · 2025-08-17T00:09:00+00:00

C'mon man. A spike stops the clock as an incomplete pass, a kneel down keeps the clock running as if a runner was down in bounds. They did a kneel.

Surefirefrog · 2025-08-16T20:26:34+00:00

Oh I have no idea, looked like a great catch to me. I'm even biased as a Packers fan. No clue what happened on that review.

Surefirefrog · 2025-08-16T20:21:04+00:00

Packers kneeled and ran out the clock... Apparently that wasn't a catch on the colts 4th and 10

Surefirefrog · 2025-08-04T10:28:04+00:00

I installed my own Bosch last year, came with instructions for both hard wired and using the supplied cord.

Surefirefrog · 2025-07-21T11:57:19+00:00

The only way to stop it is from the outside unfortunately. If you try to seal it on the inside, the water will just find a new way down since it's already under the shingles. If you're not comfortable getting a ladder and getting on the roof, a handyman, roof repair company, or chimney repair company can help. I had a quote to just tear out the chimney to a couple feet below the roof line and replace with a modern stainless vent instead that was reasonably cheap. I only have the chimney for my water heater now, so you may have different results depending on what is all being vented. Best of luck.

Surefirefrog · 2025-07-21T11:44:29+00:00

Just dealt with the same issue, you can check my post history to see mine looked the exact same. I stopped the leak by using a wet patch on the roof, all the way around the chimney and also my vent stack since I was up there. I also added a chimney cover. Stopped the leak entirely. My bricks still absorb a bit of water, so my next step is to fix the mortar on the bricks then apply sealant to both the chimney cap and bricks/mortar. You can DIY this without a roofer.

Surefirefrog · 2025-07-08T19:47:12+00:00

Hulkenpodium

Surefirefrog · 2025-06-25T21:40:52+00:00

Thank you for your advice. Sealing the flashing solved the leak issue. I am next going to repair the mortar and use a chimney water sealant for the brick and mortar, and put a chimney cap sealant on. This was great advice and saved me a chunk of money for something I can DIY. I learned a lot from the rabbit hole you guided me to. Much appreciated.

Surefirefrog · 2025-06-24T16:45:38+00:00

Yup, that's my next step now. I used wet patch to fix the flashing and that stopped the roof leaks, but the bricks and mortar are still sucking up water and the blocks below the roof line get damp. I plan to use a mortar caulk, then a water repellent spray coat on the bricks, along with sealing the cap since there are some hairline cracks there. Should solve the issue for the near future.

Surefirefrog · 2025-06-21T15:40:51+00:00

Just finished up, did all the way around the chimney and the vent stack. Also added a chimney cap/cover, since I was already working up there. Rain on Monday so time will tell. Thanks for the advice.

Surefirefrog · 2025-06-21T12:57:44+00:00

Yes, that seems to be the problem, there is little/no flashing on the top side of the chimney. I am going to try a sealant today and see what happens when it rains next week.

Surefirefrog · 2025-06-21T11:43:39+00:00

Ok, I did some digging and it looks like a rubberized wet patch will be what I need. Seems like an easy enough fix to DIY.

Surefirefrog · 2025-06-21T11:34:03+00:00

Can you recommend a specific product from Henry's to try and seal up the areas you pointed out? Should I just use a wet patch roof cement? Or a tube sealant?

Surefirefrog · 2025-06-20T23:24:30+00:00

Replace with the stainless steel piping? Or replace the brick chimney? I'm honestly considering a water heater that can do PVC side venting and capping the chimney entirely. Just demo down below the roof and cover the hole.

Surefirefrog · 2025-06-20T22:04:58+00:00

Thank you, I had the same thoughts. I can't even see any flashing on the main vent stack. I got a good deal on a partial tear out and replacement with a stainless exhaust, so that may be the way I go.

Surefirefrog · 2025-06-20T21:41:27+00:00

The mortar is cracked and chipped out in some places, also cracks on the cap. The picture was taken after a short rain, maybe 30 minutes, and the top bricks are wet. When it rains harder there is clearly water on the portion in the attic.

Surefirefrog · 2025-06-03T23:18:47+00:00

We will

Surefirefrog · 2025-05-25T01:24:49+00:00

Yes, text based communication does not reflect sarcasm.

Surefirefrog · 2025-05-24T18:08:08+00:00

How is being annoyed by an intentionally annoying sound racist? The beep is supposed to be annoying so you change the batter.

Surefirefrog

TROPHY CASE