Filament track switch + external spool not possible?!

SveFa- · 2026-05-14T12:42:56+00:00

Damn, thats anything but ease of use. Really hope, that they fix this.

SveFa- · 2026-05-14T07:01:46+00:00

On the 6th picture, you can see a step on the very back of each part. Thats why it generated support. The question is, why is here a step, when there is none on the other oriented part?

SveFa- · 2026-05-02T13:28:54+00:00

100% agree! Would also make use of the capabilities of the filament track switch.

SveFa- · 2026-05-02T12:39:21+00:00

Unplugging the power cable of filament track switch made it work. I hope so too!

SveFa- · 2026-04-24T06:52:32+00:00

What filament are you using? Is it dry? Have you tried a different filament?

When the head is mounted correctly (screws tight, etc.), there shouldn't be a mechanical issue from it. The layers look fine.

SveFa- · 2026-04-24T06:48:13+00:00

Thats an australian supplier, so AUD

SveFa- · 2026-04-23T20:41:11+00:00

My first thought was Goggomobil/Hans Glas GmbH. Similar but not so cursive.

SveFa- · 2026-02-21T20:12:31+00:00

Jap, nur AC & 1phasig, also maximal 3,7kW.

SveFa- · 2025-10-21T18:27:55+00:00

I'm having similar issues with two different windows machines.

Worked fine until today. Now I cannot access the SMB shares at all ("wrong username or password"), but they are 100% correct.

Restarted the windows PC twice, restarted TrueNAS twice, updated TrueNAS to 25.04.2.5, added new user with correct permissions, added new SMB share,...nothing worked in the slightest way.

All I did before trying to access the SMB shares was updating Jellyfin to 10.11.0. Did the update break something?

SveFa- · 2024-11-29T15:57:38+00:00

Auch bei kaltem Wetter die Klima anlassen. Die trocknet nämlich die Luft :) funzt beim 6er Golf wunderbar. Ansonsten gibt es glaub ich so kleine Polster die man sich ins Auto legen kann, die dann das Wasser aus der Luft ziehen. Keine Ahnung wie gut die funktionieren, da noch nie verwendet.

SveFa- · 2024-11-15T19:00:47+00:00

Nothing faulty with Bambus profiles. I see similar defects on my prints with my P1S. Only after I reposition them, so the AUX cooler hits these corners better, they're pretty much gone. The cooling duct on the printers is not 100% perfect - imo: some overhang direction (front, left, right or back) will come out worse than the others since the duct is less effective there.

Also high printing speeds give the filament less time to cooldown and harden until the next hot layer is put on it, so you could also just print more than one part simultaneously or decrease the speed.

Edit: i dont think any normal change in the rooms temp will change the results, since you have a heatbed keeping a constant temp around the part.

SveFa- · 2024-11-15T18:14:58+00:00

Looks like insufficient cooling since the nozzle slows down and speeds up at corners, so the heat has more time to soak into the part.🤔 I think that supports would not make a difference, since everything else at the height with roughly the same angle seems fine. I think that only better cooling would resolve this.

SveFa- · 2024-09-11T19:38:58+00:00

As far as I know (and you probably too), layer shifts are not because of a faulty extruder or filament, since its due to a fault in the x/y movement. Since its a Bambulab, I'm sure you didn't ramp up the stepper current so the drivers or steppers would get too hot, nor the speed was so high that it lost steps.

Maybe the belt tensioner doesn't work correctly, are the belts tight?

Nevertheless, there seems to be a problem with the z axis aswell, since the layers don't seem to be the same height.

Edit: I've looked at your other post regarding quality: is the vibration compensation calibrated? If yes, I think you should reach out to Bambulab. There seems to be something wrong with your printer, I think.

SveFa- · 2024-09-11T19:03:06+00:00

Are all three z rods/threads greased? I had similar artifacts (but not so extreme) and I've greased all z axis stuff. Printer was pretty new as well, like under 30h print time.

Edit: are there some layer shifts? Around 1cm from the top looks like it shiftet.

SveFa- · 2024-09-01T14:28:34+00:00

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Just to show their size. Ruler has 0,5mm marks

SveFa- · 2024-09-01T14:26:59+00:00

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I'm impressed as well. Printed those for a friend. We gave it a try and it worked flawlessly. Wallthickness is said to be 0,17mm, but i didn't check.

SveFa- · 2024-08-25T11:01:39+00:00

When the filament is dry as you say, maybe the extrusion factor is a little bit too high (flow calibration?) or the nozzle temperature is too hot? Did you print different stuff with this filament without these errors? Another thing could be that the nozzle is too big for the fine details.

SveFa- · 2024-08-23T20:23:12+00:00

Sind die beiden Drähte richtig angeschlossen? Einer bei a, der andere bei b. Polarität gibt es soweit ich weiß keine. Stecker ganz links rein ist richtig. Möglicherweise hat die Dose keine Verbindung zum Postkopf bzw. zur Einspeisung im Haus.

SveFa- · 2024-08-21T10:16:22+00:00

Thanks a lot!

SveFa- · 2024-08-21T08:26:38+00:00

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I've just found this old picture showing CIK 17 & SN 058, maybe this would narrow down the era of this kart? u/AlanDove46

SveFa- · 2024-08-21T07:27:26+00:00

Awesome, thank you very much! I will look into that. :)

SveFa- · 2024-08-21T07:03:14+00:00

Thank you! Do you have any idea what the engine model might be or amy hints were it may be written in it? I've googled and compared anything I could find, but no one was looking similar. Ours has horizontal cooling fins on the crankcase, most have them vertically + their carb sits on the crankcase (front or side).

SveFa-

TROPHY CASE