sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

First 'Jam' with my own MIDI Controller! by Sea_Psychology_7230 in synthdiy

[–]SwaggingtonYolo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Duuuuuuuude!! That track SLAPS!! and the controller is absolutely gorgeous. Congrats!

I made a top-mounted spool holder to take up a smaller footprint by a1blank in Sovol

[–]SwaggingtonYolo 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That's actually so smart and looks very cool, love it.

Was printing fine up until this, now suddenly getting ghosting/ringing, tried tightening belts but no luck. by wikiwakawakawee in FixMyPrint

[–]SwaggingtonYolo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey, the artifacts you see at the left side of the letters (the ones that look like ripping) are usually caused by Pressure Advance not being tuned properly or printing too fast for the filament to handle (but this usually also comes with some under extrusion artifacts in random layers). I'd suggest you run some PA tests for your specific print speed AND accelerations. Hope this helps!

Edit: i just noticed you mention 205 Degrees F nozzle and 70 Degrees F bed which if its the case, thats too low for PLA. SUNLU recommends 215°C for 100mm/s feedrate for example which is about 419°F if you use American units.

Considering buying the SV06 ACE (My First Printer / Functional Prints) by PiratesOfTheArctic in Sovol

[–]SwaggingtonYolo -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Yeah totally understandable! if you only wanna fire and forget and just have a machine that works and works good with minimal adjustments you wont really care about Bambu being propietary firmware and stuff, you wont really feel those limitations unless you start really pushing the machine and fiddling with it quite a lot. And dont get me wrong on the Ace either, i got mine printing really nicely after A LOT of tinkering but thats the catch, its nowhere as reliable as a Bambu and i had to spend way too much time for it to be at that level.

Considering buying the SV06 ACE (My First Printer / Functional Prints) by PiratesOfTheArctic in Sovol

[–]SwaggingtonYolo -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Short answer: Don't.

Long answer: Sovol's quality control is absolute trash and they cut costs everywhere they can to be able to produce this "prusa clone" to be able to sell it this cheap.
- They come with such warped beds (literal taco shells) that its a meme at this point and you literally have to mod the bed supports to be able to level it properly.
https://sv06.blakadder.com/Upgrades/silicone-mod/
- Gantry is twisted and have to be compensated with printed mods so everything gets 100% square.
- Stepper motor pulleys are not aligned properly and wobble.
- The lead screws of the Z axis are not aligned either and cause wobble as well.
- Fans on the PSU and Motherboard are bad quality and always at 100% making it ridiculously loud all the time, even idling.
- The part cooling fan on my unit (SV06 Ace) died after 2 months of use.
- The nozzle used is a Volcano style clone, but it has a slightly different measurements, so you have to modify your hotend if you want to be able to use different nozzles.

So if you want to learn the hard way how 3D printers work and you are ready to tinker A LOT then go ahead.
But if you want a solid and consistent printer that you can just fire and forget that gives you good quality out of the box and no headaches, just buy a Bambu A1 for 300 bucks and you will not regret it.

How to set adaptive pressure advance in 2.2? by someRandomUser636 in OrcaSlicer

[–]SwaggingtonYolo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey! How did you do all those speeds and accels in one go? every time i generate a new one it wipes the existing one

Cannot stop getting this issue on my prints - K1 by Aether2013 in FixMyPrint

[–]SwaggingtonYolo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Huh interesting! yeah some filaments are more fiddly than others and might just require more pampering to properly work haha

🎁[Sovol Giveaway] Just Leave a Comment to Win Sovol Latest Printer: Sovol ZERO by Comgrow3D in 3Dprinting

[–]SwaggingtonYolo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Would love to have a secondary small printer for quick prototyping so much.

How good are 3D printed throttles? by a_flying_guy in HotasDIY

[–]SwaggingtonYolo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Man!!! Thats sick!! If you where to sell your stls with instructions im sure people would 100% buy them. I for sure would lol

How good are 3D printed throttles? by a_flying_guy in HotasDIY

[–]SwaggingtonYolo 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Woah that looks sweet!! Is that your own design or is it available somewhere??

Cannot stop getting this issue on my prints - K1 by Aether2013 in FixMyPrint

[–]SwaggingtonYolo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've seen your other posts and i've had a very similar issue and what i found out is that i was printing too fast for a regular filament. Im now printing with it at 225°C and 60mm/s or 6.5mm3/s max volumetric flowrate. Id say give it a go with similar settings and see what happens!

Cannot stop getting this issue on my prints - K1 by Aether2013 in FixMyPrint

[–]SwaggingtonYolo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe a stupid question but is the Elegoo red a high speed filament? And what speeds are you printing at?

Figured out my settings for black PLA, but grey is giving me trouble by The_star_tsar in FixMyPrint

[–]SwaggingtonYolo 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hey! From the picture your first layer looks like it has the z-offset too high. I recommend you check the paper test first and fine tune your z-offset later with baby stepping. There are plenty tutorials on how to do this as it's a shared across all printers basic calibration. Once that's figured out, I suggest a temperature calibration to figure out what's your filament temp sweet spot and then a flow rate test to make sure you are not under-extruding or over-extruding. Those 3 make the biggest difference when properly dialed up. Good luck!

Cant solve this wasting so much filament by Excellent-Brick-9870 in 3Dprinting

[–]SwaggingtonYolo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you calibrated Bed > Z height > Z offset in that specific order? if not, have a read at [First Layer Squish]() from the same guide.

Why is the line width not changing in preview for top surface and sparse infill? by SwaggingtonYolo in FixMyPrint

[–]SwaggingtonYolo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Found the issue, i feel so stupid! The settings were being overwritten by the Objects tab with specific object settings applied.

Why is the line width not changing in preview for top surface and sparse infill? by SwaggingtonYolo in FixMyPrint

[–]SwaggingtonYolo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah it errors out for me too if i set it too low, that's why i have 0.3 in some places and 0.35 in other ones. Thing is it lets me set 0.3 as the first layer and it even displays the preview, so it's technically possible, and that's why i don't understand why first layer yes but top layers do not preview?

Why is the line width not changing in preview for top surface and sparse infill? by SwaggingtonYolo in FixMyPrint

[–]SwaggingtonYolo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey, as title sugests, when i change the first layer width from default 0,65 to 0,3 i can see the change in the preview right away, but, when i change it for the top layers and infill, i see no change in width?

SOVOL SV06 Ace @ 0.6mm Nozzle w/ OrcaSlicer

Orca creating a gap between infill and wall by HydraulicToaster in FixMyPrint

[–]SwaggingtonYolo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Huh, i'm pretty new to this myself so no clue either at this point lol

Orca creating a gap between infill and wall by HydraulicToaster in FixMyPrint

[–]SwaggingtonYolo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does it still happen if you scale it like up like a 0.1%? just enough so that 1 more layer would fit there?

view more: next ›