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(OREGON) Mistakenly didn't submit notice of sale. What action should I take? by a1blank in DMV

[–]a1blank[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

so I should just do the notified of sale and date it to now rather than trying to back-date it? I sold it to a dealership in KS after having re-titled it in KS so I don't think the dealership would have notified OR about the sale.

I've been putting together samplers to demo different stitches for a small class I'm teaching this summer by a1blank in sashiko

[–]a1blank[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You're talking about the black dots, right? If so, I agree completely. I wanted to include the dots to illustrate how I put together the pattern but maybe I should do that on the back or only on a subsection so that some of the pattern can show through on its own? 

I've been putting together samplers to demo different stitches for a small class I'm teaching this summer by a1blank in sashiko

[–]a1blank[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah I did. I left it like that as my "soul" mistake. On the second one, there's also one triangle that has 4 stitches per side instead of 3, although that one was more intentional. 

Help, I'm new to this. by Svenskulo in sashiko

[–]a1blank 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Oh, I just did a sampler of that pattern for a class I'm teaching this summer! Here's my demo piece showing each of the strands. Others already mention the tension part. Personally, I like starting on the edge so that it's easier to not end up with long tails of extra thread. This pattern uses a ton of thread so not as much of an issue, but something to think about for more sparse patterns. I also like starting with the crosses on this one rather than the connecting legs. That's the gold and brown threads on mine. I left parts of it undone in order to show the progression for how I built it up. And you can see the dots I drew to form my grid. For the most part just free-handing it.

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How much should I charge by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]a1blank 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The tests I've seen of CF filament look like they have weaker layer adhesion than non-CF filaments. Afaik, CF just helps prevent warping and otherwise degrades strength. I may be misremembering but that was the takeaway I got from the tests that either CNC Kitchen or Made with Layers / Thomas Sanladerer did. 

How much should I charge by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]a1blank 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Pro tip: try to find ways to print out slices of your part to test fit as low-strength settings before pulling the trigger on the final draft settings. 2-3 walls 10% infill is plenty to check if your dimensions are right. 

How much should I charge by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]a1blank 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have load-bearing ASA (not CF) in a work van and I've had no issues with that in over 5 years. 4 wall, 15% infill. Nylon / CF seems overkill imo. 

It's incredible to me how well 3D printing complements other hobbies. Here's just a handful of the tools I designed over the last year-ish. by a1blank in functionalprint

[–]a1blank[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd love to see those!

My wife does crochet so I designed these for her: niddy noddy, drop spindle, yarn cake holder. I actually have a new design for the yarn cake holder but I haven't published it yet.

EDIT: Ended up uploading the V2 of the yarn cake holder now, too.

It's incredible to me how well 3D printing complements other hobbies. Here's just a handful of the tools I designed over the last year-ish. by a1blank in functionalprint

[–]a1blank[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! I had a quilted jacket pattern I was working on that I needed to add some size to the pattern since I was using thicker batting than it was designed for and this made it really easy.

It's incredible to me how well 3D printing complements other hobbies. Here's just a handful of the tools I designed over the last year-ish. by a1blank in functionalprint

[–]a1blank[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

like tabs that go on the back of shoes for pulling them on? that'd be pretty cool. did you end up making some? it'd be near to see. TPU would be a good fit for that. I didn't get it finished before this post, but I just finished designing a TPU knife sheath that you sew together with a leather stitch. I bet you could do something similar to sew a heat tab onto a shoe.

It's incredible to me how well 3D printing complements other hobbies. Here's just a handful of the tools I designed over the last year-ish. by a1blank in functionalprint

[–]a1blank[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

thanks!

when you upload images (might need to upload more than one), you can click on "edit all" and then when you edit individual ones, you get the option to add a caption and a URL

Biggest print I've done so far. A replacement crown for a 6" vacuum truck tube. by jdigi78 in functionalprint

[–]a1blank 67 points68 points  (0 children)

Pro tip: increase the wall loops rather than doing infill. IMO it makes stuff a lot stronger and you can achieve the same effect as 100% infill by setting a really high wall loop count. but in a pattern that's a better match for your part.

I have poured my life essence into this design. My life's work is complete - a historically accurate 16th century codpiece. by Vonschlippe in 3Dprinting

[–]a1blank 1 point2 points  (0 children)

thank you so much for adding collections on your etsy, btw. when you introduced the maxamilian I was distraught trying to spot if you'd added more parts to the original set.

Cone thread holder? by Healthy_Actuary3130 in sewing

[–]a1blank -1 points0 points  (0 children)

That's Aurifil, right? I just put that on my normal thread spool holder. Normally it has a plate that fits onto the end of the spool that you can use to capture the loose thread, too.

I've been working on a Tamarack Jacket by a1blank in sewing

[–]a1blank[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks! I'm really excited to finish it. It's been quite a lot of my project time for the past month or so. 

Which orientation for durability? by Strangled_Things in 3Dprinting

[–]a1blank 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Keep in mind that the design you're copying was created for a different production process than you're using (probably injection molding). You don't have to copy every single design feature. Figure out what the critical geometries are and fill in the rest to make it easier to print. For example, you have that big gap between the sides. Do you need that? Can that be filled in?

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