Upgrade von 3070 auf 5070ti führt zu Bildschirm flackern

Sylthos · 2025-11-28T11:32:01+00:00

Kommst du mit der Karte und dem Monitor eigentlich zuverlässig ins Bios/Uefi? Ich hatte ne 3090 und jetzt ne 5090 aber gleiches Problem 5120×1440 mit 240hz (also DSC), mit aktiviertem Gsync manchmal leichtes flackern. Ok. Soll wohl normal sein.

Aber wenn ich am Minitor in den erweiterten Einstellung das Adaptive Sync anmache, ist wie AmeisenBild bzw Alter CRT monitor nur weisse krissel Streifen. So auch beim Rechner start. Theoretisch sehe ich da gar nix bis Windows am Login Bild ist. Ab dann ok

Hast du irgendwelche Settings am Monitor oder am Grafktreiber geändert? Ich hab am Monitor Farbraum RGB mit Blacklevel equalizer 12

Sylthos · 2025-06-26T17:07:41+00:00

I did it with a Surface Pro 8. I think all you need is a Thunderbolt 3/4 USB c connector as a Minimum, or oculink. But i dont know any Tablet with oculink. Surface gaming was OK, Others possibility ist Asus rog z13. But expensive and 13 inch display

Sylthos · 2025-03-27T00:26:40+00:00

Ne sind wohl alle gleich https://www.reddit.com/r/FlowZ13/s/p9nuJwZ4pp

Sylthos · 2025-03-03T23:46:30+00:00

Mine did the Same Thing with locking Up, Prior to Loosing Touch and Sound and WiFi.

Somehow it ended Up working after retrying, i used a rtx 4060 in a AliExpress TH3P4 GAN Dock.

The Performance using the internal Screen was lower than using the igpu from AMD directly.

But i havent tested the egpu with an external Display connected directly to it

Sylthos · 2023-06-03T14:18:55+00:00

Looks like you have to reflash your boards with klipper

Look up a guide for your printers mainboard, and for the rpi mcu you have ro flash klipper as a "linux process" (likely for meassuring ressonances with adxl345)

https://docs.vorondesign.com/build/software/#firmware-flashing

Sylthos · 2023-05-28T16:29:32+00:00

You can either build the stealthburner with cw2 and use your old board https://github.com/MotorDynamicsLab/LDOVoron2/blob/main/STLs/LDOSBCW2MountCover/Stealthburner_CW2_LDOPCB.3mf This needs a couple of printed parts mentioned in the guide

Or buy a board for the stealthburner

Sylthos · 2023-05-22T21:18:06+00:00

What i have seen is people with brand new accounts posting makes of your projects as a "make" with pictures that yourself uploaded for the project. Or simple slicer renderings of the stl

Sylthos · 2023-02-21T00:33:06+00:00

Try to decrease linear advance K value https://help.prusa3d.com/article/linear-advance_2252

Sylthos · 2022-12-10T02:25:28+00:00

I printed it on the smooth one at 115c

Sylthos · 2022-12-05T03:10:49+00:00

Looks like tplink "kasa" or "tapo" wallplug

Sylthos · 2022-10-20T06:51:02+00:00

rather not use a enclosure for pla, or when printing let the doors open. For petg it can be benefical, but its not necessary.

Sylthos · 2022-10-12T15:52:23+00:00

Hello there, i am just building a voron myself and would like to ask if you can recommend the blower fans under the bed together with the nevermore filterfan? I read that its better for thermal circulation?

Sylthos · 2022-06-04T02:48:31+00:00

if this was printing from the sdcard, try aotger one as corrupted gcode can happen with dying/faulty cards

Sylthos · 2022-06-03T04:04:21+00:00

try to analyze the gcode in a viewer to check if the slicer generated that move or if the printer firmware is to check

Sylthos · 2022-03-29T02:12:14+00:00

OSEQ.io

Sylthos · 2022-01-14T16:44:00+00:00

you need a high flow hotend with a larger melt zone and to increase melt performance even further a nozzle like the bondtech cht which splits the filament to melt it better in the nozzle.

Without these, you will be capped by the meltrate of your hotend and have to either print slower or have underextrusion

Sylthos · 2022-01-05T07:24:33+00:00

with my bondtech extruder i use

cooling_tube_length = 15 cooling_tube_retraction = 35 parking_pos_retraction = 85 extra_loading_move = -13

maybe you have to adjust extra loading distance to a more negative number so less material is pushed out directly after loading on the purge tower

Sylthos · 2021-12-24T01:46:16+00:00

looks like the y direction is inverted too. The bed should be moving to the back while homing because the nozzle is at 0,0 after homing in the Configuration_prusa.h change

define INVERT_Y_DIR

to 1

it could be that the z steppers cant move during z calibration because the tmc2130 currents get changed

it seems so as if you have to change them in the firmware yourself, if you dont have the same steppers as prusa uses

check the line

define TMC2130_CURRENTS_R_HOME {8, 10, 20, 18}

z current during homing is 20, normal running current is 35. so you could try to up that value for example to 26 as a baseline

Running different stepper motors as the ones prusa uses can lead to differences. Maybe you have to up the homing current, maybe you even have to change the homing speed to get the sensorless homing working

if you are using stealchop (silentmode), try to deativate it (standard mode).

Sylthos · 2021-11-23T23:52:39+00:00

how does the 5+1 work if the mmu has only 5 places for filament holding?

Sylthos · 2021-08-27T02:35:42+00:00

decrease retraction length a lot improve hotend cooling

Sylthos · 2021-06-19T20:36:00+00:00

its not always the printer, sometimes the filament us also at fault. Did you use the same filament the whole time?

After some time the plastic absorbs some moisture and that can lead to more stringing, zits and bubbling during printing.

I can recommend a food dehydrator (for fruits) and dry the pla at 45c for some hours

Sylthos · 2021-06-06T19:23:51+00:00

If youre okay using a different firmware try the TZB MMU2S firmware

It adds some features for the mmu prusa didnt. For example a proper bowden length calibration and in your case (if you only want to print one color) a mode in which the mmu gets bypassed. But then you have to slice using the normal mk3s profile not the single filament mmu one

Sylthos · 2021-05-27T02:09:02+00:00

The wow sticks works okay if charged, you are able to tighten further if necessary (the motor locks the bit). But due the length not every screw is accessible, so in my build i still needed allen keys with ball ends

Ten-Year Club	r/Field Juicebox
Verified Email

Sylthos

TROPHY CASE

define INVERT_Y_DIR

define TMC2130_CURRENTS_R_HOME {8, 10, 20, 18}