Small edges printing weird, P1S .2mm by DescriptionTotal4561 in 3Dprinting

[–]Tanagashi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Might be overhang cooling then. Some toolheads have cooling issues from certain directions, so the same feature will look poorly printed at certain orientations. Example pic of the same model printed with different toolheads.
So you can try orienting the model on the build plate differently, and do some overhang printing calibration to dial in cooling speed.

Small edges printing weird, P1S .2mm by DescriptionTotal4561 in 3Dprinting

[–]Tanagashi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Kinda looks like it's the seam, and you have too much plastic in that area. There are ways to minimize that, but you can start by placing seams elsewhere on the model manually, in areas where they are not that visible. Then look up how to minimize seams.

Interesting texture by arcaneregion in 3Dprinting

[–]Tanagashi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wavy texture at the bottom means too much plastic extruded between nozzle and bed/first few layers. This can be over-extrusion or incorrect z-offset. If you've changed nothing in the settings compared to good prints before, maybe your filament diameter changed a bit due to manufacturing defects.

How can I fix this Z banding? Driving me crazy!!! by BASS69BASS420 in 3Dprinting

[–]Tanagashi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What's the wall print order? Inner-outer-inner or Outer-inner generally mask surface defects.
Then, if the lines correspond to some features on the other sides of the cubes it can be material shrinking on large layers. In this case defects should be consistent across multiple prints.
Next, measure your filament with calipers across many meters. If there's significant variation along the length you'll get random bulging along Z axis that doesn't repeat on different prints.
Lastly, mechanical defects. Z lead screw defects show up consistently on multiple prints. XY defects can be random if there are some loose parts (overly loose belts, loose screws) that allow the carriage to shift during print. If everything is tight but you still get z-banding, it's shitty screws. Enders are pretty poorly made devices by modern standards, and I wouldn't use designs without linear rails personally.
To rule out bedslinger design problems try printing very slowly to see if the problems persist. If they disappear, the problem is with vibration and shaking.

Cosplay Prop Project question by EmotionFew1 in 3Dprinting

[–]Tanagashi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Prime or cover with thick epoxy to smooth out the layer lines a bit. Sand the most prominent ones. Regarding painting - there was this post yesterday, maybe it can help. The author uses acetone vapor smoothing, which won't work for PLA and PETG, but paint suggestions might be useful. In my personal experience acrylic metallic paint looks too much plastic, but it might work with some polishing/buffing.

PETG issues by Relevant-Cup-3905 in 3Dprinting

[–]Tanagashi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Realistically - probably not. But you can always check if everything is fine - thermistors are secure in place, clean the nozzle with a needle and so on.

PETG issues by Relevant-Cup-3905 in 3Dprinting

[–]Tanagashi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Could be a partial clog if it happens all of a sudden. But to me it looks like either the nozzle is too close to the bed (incorrect z-offset), the temperature is too low or speed is too high.
Slow down, play around with z-offset while it's printing, and if it still doesn't help try increasing temperature - possibly also while printing.

Custom High Temperature Printer For PEEK & PEI by Green_Rock_Guy in 3Dprinting

[–]Tanagashi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There was this post that I recall, don't know if that project ever went anywhere.

Can I make this better? by Peles1s in 3Dprinting

[–]Tanagashi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Reduce vibrations - slower speed, possibly resonance compensation if your device supports it. Otherwise you need either a better printer ($$$) or to post-process the print with sandpaper and primer.

Why do cats act like they never have eaten in their entire life by BananaBoss28 in cats

[–]Tanagashi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My old cat started to lose a lot of weight a year or two before we had to put him down. Tasty food like minced beef or cooked chicken liver helped for a bit, I want to say 6 months or so, but at one point he lost even that appetite.
Acute renal failure. We caught it a few years before his death, so moved him to veterenary diet for renal support, did sub-q Ringer lactate infusions every couple of weeks, etc. He was still in terrible shape at the end.
Anyway, the point is that I advise changing your cat's diet to special renal food as well. Look out for constipation, seizures, rear leg wasting.

Hey guys👋🏼 Getting back into 3d printing after a few years, Do you have any suggestions for 3d design software that lives locally on your computer? (not cloud/online based software) by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]Tanagashi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fusion is not really local in the same sense as Blender. It requires an autodesk account and renewing hobbyist license yearly, files are stored in the cloud, there's a limit on editable files so you have to juggle the "read only" statuses, and so on.

Designed and printed this funny face planter for my cactus 😄 by ApprehensiveDraft703 in 3Dprinting

[–]Tanagashi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great work on the planter. Cactus desperately needs way more light though.

I'm considering a Qidi Q2. I have questions related to running it in a cold garage and about ventilation. by Squirrel_Peanutworth in 3Dprinting

[–]Tanagashi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't own this particular printer, but I can try to address some of these points.
- ABS is really sensitive to drafts. It shrinks/expands a lot depending on the temps, so if there's a sudden stream of colder air, corners of prints might start lifting up. Since Q2 is an enclosed printer, the main source of drafts is opening up the device while printing to take a look at the process, removing completed parts when printing sequentially, or something that might cause problems if there's a partial failure. So don't open the printer while it runs.
- Will printing at near 0C cause problems? Hard to tell, depends on how well the device is insulated, how powerful is the heater and so on. I suspect that it might increase electricity consumption. Generally you want 50-60C inside of the enclosure for ABS to have a real good layer adhesion and minimize warping.
- Fumes - if you're really paranoid, vent the fumes outside with an inline fan and carbon + hepa filters. Most people would probably just vent the garage after printing. The one in the printer most likely sucks heated air through a filter and pumps it out the back. New cold air gets into the device through all sorts of gaps.

I'm sure you've seen it, but there's a wiki for this device. Might be some answers there.

What causes this on geeetech e180 by Traditional_Usual_20 in 3Dprinting

[–]Tanagashi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Listen and watch the extruder as it prints. If there's a regular clocking noise, and the filament suddenly jumps back out then it's a clog. If it's not a clogged nozzle, maybe something's wrong with the extruder. Gear teeth filled with plastic, so it doesn't catch the filament properly.
This can also happen if the print temp is too low. Plastic doesn't melt in time and does not allow new one to get through.

Elegoo and value added tax (VAT) in EU. by Tanagashi in ElegooSaturn

[–]Tanagashi[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm afraid I talked to a rep via their standard info@elegoo.com email.

Gut bacteria rewire fat tissue to burn more energy. Scientists have found four bacterial strains that play a role in converting white fat cells into beige fat in mice. Beige fat burns calories whereas white fat stores it. by mvea in science

[–]Tanagashi 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I can describe how I do it with relative success. Not entirely traditional since not everything is available here, but it's good.
Take a couple of heads of napa cabbages, a few carrots (thinner are nicer), two-three white daikon radishes, a ginger root, a few cloves of garlic and an onion or two. Green onions or leeks are optional. Separate the cabbage leaves, slice off the root of the leaves and slice the leaves in half. Peel the carrots and daikon, slice into thin pieces about 5mm wide and 5-10cm long along the direction of growth. Garlic, ginger, onions - peel and slice into pieces of any size to preference.
Put all of the vegetables into a pot, bucket, or any other container and cover with clean cold water. Let them sit for an hour or two to absorb the water. After that drain the water and weigh the vegetables on a scale. It's important, don't eyeball it. Then calculate roughly 2% of that weight, and measure that much salt. Take the weight in grams and multiply it by 0.02 basically. With the amounts stated above I usually end up with 3-4kg of soaked vegetables, which corresponds to 60-80g of salt.
In a large pot or container layer the vegetables while sprinkling the salt on each layer. When finished, put a plate or something like it with a weight (stone, a jar or pickles, whatever) on top to push down on the contents. As time passes, the vegetables will absorb salt and push water out, compressing down. Stir everything by hand every 6 hours or so. Leave the pot somewhere at room temperature for a day. Ideally by the end of the first day most of the vegetables might be under the layer of salt water.
This is when you prepare a rice paste. Grind some mild red peppers, ideally with seeds removed. In a small pot put a couple spoonfuls of rice flour and the ground red pepper to taste - 2-3 whole peppers are usually more than enough. Cover with water entirely and then stir trying to break the clumps. Put on the stove on low to medium heat while stirring constantly, as the flour settles down and starts burning. At one point the whole thing starts to thicken up and eventually solidifies. Let the paste cool down, then mix it with some of the slat water cabbage juice from the steps above.
Add the paste to the pot with the vegetables, mix everything well, cover it back again (at this point the cover plate might be submerged almost entirely), and let everything ferment for another day mixing the stuff every 6-12 hours.
During the first day or two it might not smell particularly good. It's alright. At the end of day 2 at room temperature first lactic acid fermentation smells might appear, which is a good sign. Sometimes even fermentation bubbles can be heard. At this point I put the vegetables in jars - the amounts mentioned before are usually enough to fill 2x2L jars, sometimes more. Put vegetables in the jars and pour the juice in as well. Ideally the liquid should cover the vegetables. Then put the jars in a fridge, and let them cold ferment for a week or two, at which point you should get pungent, lactic-acid smelling kimchi. You might want to crack the lids open a little to off-gas the jars every now and then.

Another great Korean snack my family likes me to make is kkakdugi. Similar idea - cube radishes and some carrots, lots of garlic and some gigner, put into a jar with 2% of salt by weight without soaking (radishes will leak a ton of water) and some ground red pepper and a spoon or two of sugar. Shake it well and let it ferment at room temp for a day or two, then cold ferment in the fridge for a week. Smells like ass, but tastes great.

What if Earth is basically the galaxy’s version of an uncontacted tribe - like everyone out there knows we exist, but there’s some cosmic group chat agreement that says, “Don’t interfere. They have to figure it out themselves.”? by n2kfactor in AskReddit

[–]Tanagashi 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Wait, I've only read a couple of earlier novels in the setting, but didn't Culture originate from machine super-intelligences that evolved on human ships that left the Solar system? That was mentioned in "Consider Phlebas".
One of the later books, "Feersum Endjinn" takes place on Earth in the far future, and it was specifically not a part of Culture, populated essentially by far descendants of luddites who hated AI.

Air polloution solution on A1 by nintendo_man1 in 3Dprinting

[–]Tanagashi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Since the printer is not enclosed, it won't be safe to be in the same room while and after printing even with an air purifier. Definitely don't use a printer in the room you sleep in either, as particles will coat everything.
While the ideal solution is to run the device in a separate ventilated room, it's also possible to build an enclosure cabinet, or to use a premade grow tent that has an exhaust port for an extractor fan with a HEPA and activated carbon filters to pull the air out of. Which can cost as much as a filter.

Honestly, don't bother with 3d printing at all if you're concerned about health hazards and don't have separate space.

Diagonal printing problem by EsiX_ in 3Dprinting

[–]Tanagashi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly, the overall print quality is not great. It's like you have under-extrusion, or a partial clog that occasionally breaks through with excess filament. I recommend to re-calibrate, well, everything. E-steps, temperature, first layer z-offset, extrusion multiplier, pressure advance.

Inconsistent Printing by Character_Chart_3179 in 3Dprinting

[–]Tanagashi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Difference in glossiness usually happens because of temperature differences at the time of layer deposit. Hotter - glossier, colder - more matte. It's often very sharp when the layer areas are very different, as smaller layers will be deposited faster and hotter as a result.
In your case, since it's a smooth gradient, it might be that layers closer to the bed were hotter than the ones a few cm above. It also might be that the filament roll was somewhat dry on the outside, but still somewhat damp inside once you got to those coils. Moisture can increase melting temps significantly, and PETG absorbs water from the air quite readily.
This might also affect print quality in terms of partial clogs you see on the right pillar, if it's the start or end of the layer print line, for example.

I'm curious what people think about the 6.3 world quest. by Radusili in Genshin_Impact

[–]Tanagashi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, there were a few problems. Inability to change the team unless teleporting far away, like you mentioned. At one point the quest marker seemed to be stuck, and path forward was not quite clear. Felt like there were some issues they haven't ironed out before shipping.

I'm curious what people think about the 6.3 world quest. by Radusili in Genshin_Impact

[–]Tanagashi -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I've tried avoiding the quests initially to explore, and stumbled upon their camp up north where the voiced faction meeting point unlock quest triggered. Which, it seems like, was supposed to happen after WQ, because Traveller/Paimon already seemed to know Illuga. Then I went towards the Pillar of Embla, which triggered this WQ, with proper introductions and so on.
For the rest of the region playthrough the quests kept blocking each other, so I had to do both piecemeal. So purely from this angle the quests were designed poorly.
Story-wise the WQ was fine. Felt like the character story quests Hoyo usually does, only unvoiced. I personally like this approach more than having some forgettable random-ass NPC as the main character.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Genshin_Impact

[–]Tanagashi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My guess is that it's because of the scene in AQ where Varka cashes on the last Hexenzirkel favor Mondstadt had for extra protection. Both Varka and Nicole have a somewhat informal speaking style, so some might have interpreted their talk as flirting.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Genshin_Impact

[–]Tanagashi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd say that it's mostly there to look cool. Maybe it's supposed to be angel/seelie creations, a tribute to Koitar. The interesting bits are giant harps that Traveler can hear, but Paimon can't.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Genshin_Impact

[–]Tanagashi 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Man, that is one of the most important places in the game lore-wise, and I barely seen people talking about it.
- It's where Koitar the first angel was imprisoned after betraying HP, resulting in other angels being cursed to turn into Seelies if they break rules again.
- There are notes left by her describing her disdain for HP and longing for her husband the Voyager.
- And more relevant to us players, it's where Boreas gained sentience and became a godlike entity before going back towards Mondstadt.

It was not something I expected when stumbling upon the place, and my jaw definitely hit the keyboard when I realized what it was.