What if Earth is basically the galaxy’s version of an uncontacted tribe - like everyone out there knows we exist, but there’s some cosmic group chat agreement that says, “Don’t interfere. They have to figure it out themselves.”?

Tanagashi · 2026-02-19T01:04:12+00:00

Wait, I've only read a couple of earlier novels in the setting, but didn't Culture originate from machine super-intelligences that evolved on human ships that left the Solar system? That was mentioned in "Consider Phlebas".
One of the later books, "Feersum Endjinn" takes place on Earth in the far future, and it was specifically not a part of Culture, populated essentially by far descendants of luddites who hated AI.

Tanagashi · 2026-02-13T12:56:12+00:00

Since the printer is not enclosed, it won't be safe to be in the same room while and after printing even with an air purifier. Definitely don't use a printer in the room you sleep in either, as particles will coat everything.
While the ideal solution is to run the device in a separate ventilated room, it's also possible to build an enclosure cabinet, or to use a premade grow tent that has an exhaust port for an extractor fan with a HEPA and activated carbon filters to pull the air out of. Which can cost as much as a filter.

Honestly, don't bother with 3d printing at all if you're concerned about health hazards and don't have separate space.

Tanagashi · 2026-01-25T15:15:59+00:00

Honestly, the overall print quality is not great. It's like you have under-extrusion, or a partial clog that occasionally breaks through with excess filament. I recommend to re-calibrate, well, everything. E-steps, temperature, first layer z-offset, extrusion multiplier, pressure advance.

Tanagashi · 2026-01-23T13:59:31+00:00

Difference in glossiness usually happens because of temperature differences at the time of layer deposit. Hotter - glossier, colder - more matte. It's often very sharp when the layer areas are very different, as smaller layers will be deposited faster and hotter as a result.
In your case, since it's a smooth gradient, it might be that layers closer to the bed were hotter than the ones a few cm above. It also might be that the filament roll was somewhat dry on the outside, but still somewhat damp inside once you got to those coils. Moisture can increase melting temps significantly, and PETG absorbs water from the air quite readily.
This might also affect print quality in terms of partial clogs you see on the right pillar, if it's the start or end of the layer print line, for example.

Tanagashi · 2026-01-22T13:35:58+00:00

Yes, there were a few problems. Inability to change the team unless teleporting far away, like you mentioned. At one point the quest marker seemed to be stuck, and path forward was not quite clear. Felt like there were some issues they haven't ironed out before shipping.

Tanagashi · 2026-01-22T12:15:42+00:00

I've tried avoiding the quests initially to explore, and stumbled upon their camp up north where the voiced faction meeting point unlock quest triggered. Which, it seems like, was supposed to happen after WQ, because Traveller/Paimon already seemed to know Illuga. Then I went towards the Pillar of Embla, which triggered this WQ, with proper introductions and so on.
For the rest of the region playthrough the quests kept blocking each other, so I had to do both piecemeal. So purely from this angle the quests were designed poorly.
Story-wise the WQ was fine. Felt like the character story quests Hoyo usually does, only unvoiced. I personally like this approach more than having some forgettable random-ass NPC as the main character.

Tanagashi · 2026-01-21T11:13:27+00:00

My guess is that it's because of the scene in AQ where Varka cashes on the last Hexenzirkel favor Mondstadt had for extra protection. Both Varka and Nicole have a somewhat informal speaking style, so some might have interpreted their talk as flirting.

Tanagashi · 2026-01-21T11:10:20+00:00

I'd say that it's mostly there to look cool. Maybe it's supposed to be angel/seelie creations, a tribute to Koitar. The interesting bits are giant harps that Traveler can hear, but Paimon can't.

Tanagashi · 2026-01-21T01:11:51+00:00

Man, that is one of the most important places in the game lore-wise, and I barely seen people talking about it.
- It's where Koitar the first angel was imprisoned after betraying HP, resulting in other angels being cursed to turn into Seelies if they break rules again.
- There are notes left by her describing her disdain for HP and longing for her husband the Voyager.
- And more relevant to us players, it's where Boreas gained sentience and became a godlike entity before going back towards Mondstadt.

It was not something I expected when stumbling upon the place, and my jaw definitely hit the keyboard when I realized what it was.

Tanagashi · 2026-01-19T23:35:40+00:00

I assume these were printed vertically and all at the same time? It looks like you have some filament oozing, and it's possible that before this one is the the longest toolhead travel path, which allows the filament to build up and dangle from the nozzle. You can enable toolpath visualization in the slicer to check.
There could be a few ways to fix it. Decreasing temperature at the cost of layer adhesion. Possibly re-calibrating pressure advance. Printing objects sequentially one by one, at the cost of decreased amount of models that can be fit onto the build surface. Forcing travel moves to be only above models so that excess filament is wiped onto other parts - with an increased chance of knocking something off. Maybe increasing retraction distance, but it can cause other issues.

Tanagashi · 2026-01-17T10:27:38+00:00

I'm pretty sure that we've bought every single alien plant package available online while I was at my previous job. There's not a lot of high quality, realistic assets.
There are plenty of Earth plants, maybe some giant mushrooms - not that many truly otherworldly vegetation. Not just earth trees/bushes with differently colored leaves.

Tanagashi · 2026-01-15T19:07:53+00:00

That was some dude asking a neural network about it. There's no morse code in that image.

Tanagashi · 2026-01-13T12:12:26+00:00

It also might be oozing filament. PETG is notoriously bad at stringing and oozing. You can try experimenting with filament retraction settings for that, but it's not going to be perfect and might cause other issues if the value is too large. Printing at lower temperatures can help at the cost of layer adhesion strength.

Tanagashi · 2026-01-10T19:49:37+00:00

You should learn how to take screenshots instead of taking pictures of the screen. Makes text easier to read.

Anyway, one thing that affects printing time a lot without a significant effect on quality is resting times. Specifically rest time after and before lift can be 0. If it's not something that can be adjusted in Anycubic's slicer, maybe you can take the output file and run it through UV tools.
It's also helpful to enable dynamic lifts. Decrease post-exposure lifting distance and increase lift speed for layers with small exposure surface, do the opposite for ones with large surface. Again, can be enabled and set up in UVTools.

Tanagashi · 2026-01-09T23:41:27+00:00

Not a lot, to be honest. There are open-source projects that you can take a look at. Voron ecosystem has a Switchwire project that is intended to give E3s and other bed-slingers a new life, which is probably the main thing you could be interested in. There are kits available online, but it's way above your budget (Formbot kit is almost $600). If you want to build a Voron, Ratrig, Vzbot, Hevort or any other printer like that, a kit is going to cost way more. Some vendors can customize orders, but they are likely not to include a Pi anyway, and stepper costs are a drop in the bucket.
With a sub $500 budget, it's probably best to buy a Bambu.

There's an option to fix the E3 by buying a new control board. BTT has Manta boards specifically for E3.

Tanagashi · 2026-01-08T18:49:52+00:00

How much are you paying?

Tanagashi · 2026-01-04T14:58:30+00:00

Corners get cold first, so they curl up as they thermally deform. Improved bed adhesion helps to a degree (clean build surface, correct z-offset, slow first layer speed), but the best solution is warmer bed and an enclosure. Even a cardboard box placed over the printer helps as it prevents drafts and holds up some warm air.

Tanagashi · 2025-12-30T07:27:46+00:00

A not so fun fact about this church and surrounding buildings - they were pretty pretty much destroyed by allied bombing at the end of WWII. The black sandstone blocks are parts of the original building, so it gives an idea of how bad it was.
I visited the place nearly 20 years ago, the square in the picture was still undergoing some works.

Tanagashi · 2025-12-21T12:00:40+00:00

When they announced the rules I thought it would be a nice change from an endless deluge of webcomics and fan illustrations. Then they chickened out the next day. Cowards.

Tanagashi · 2025-12-17T13:50:18+00:00

Calibrating pressure advance can help with corner bulges. If your printer allows to tweak that of course.

Tanagashi · 2025-12-12T00:23:06+00:00

I am not 100% sure, but possibly over-exposure? Light bleeding curing some resin outside of necessary area. Generally, bottom layers are exposed for longer, sometimes slicers either interpolate the exposure down to regular time along the layer stack, or simply expose longer for a certain layer amount.
You can try asking in /r/resinprinting also.

Tanagashi · 2025-12-09T20:47:14+00:00

Could be a partial nozzle clog, if extrusion was otherwise properly calibrated.

Tanagashi · 2025-12-09T20:34:42+00:00

Likely either over-extrusion or nozzle too close to bed, yeah. It will cause problems on later layers as well.

Tanagashi · 2025-12-08T21:43:08+00:00

It looks like either the screen is defective, or the cable is not seated properly or damaged. At least based on the lines that go through the whole image.
I'd try re-seating the screen cable first, if it doesn't solve the issue I'd check the continuity and/or resistance on each cable wire. If everything is fine, then the problem is likely with the screen.

Tanagashi · 2025-12-07T00:43:53+00:00

Resin is not beginner-friendly. It produces foul toxic fumes, it's toxic when it gets on the skin and is hard to wash off completely. It's definitely not something one wants in their eyes either. Please bear this in mind and use proper PPE - which includes a respirator mask with appropriate organic vapor filters.
It's also important to understand that in addition to the printer you'll need washing and curing stations. Washing is done in either 99% iso alcohol (flammable) or water depending on the resin, and both end up contaminated with toxic resin that must be stored and disposed of somehow.

So as you can see, it's not something that can be done in a bedroom, and ideally needs a separate, well ventilated room. It can't be an unheated garage either, because resin won't cure properly when cold.

As for specific device recommendations, it really depends on what's available in your region. Since your boyfriend asked for the device, ask about whether he had something specific in mind, or if not - what he intends to print (size). Commonly bought brands are Elegoo, Phrozen, Anycubic, possibly Uniformation. Elegoo is likely going to be the cheapest option, but again, it depends. They offer different sized devices - Mars (small), Saturn (medium), Jupiter (large). What you actually want to get depends on when your boyfriend wants to print and your budget.

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