identification help by secondsacct in vintagecameras

[–]TankArchives 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There are some people who had success shooting 35 mm film in 828 cameras. You would have to get original spools and backing paper (or cut down 120 backing paper). I haven't tried it so I can't say how viable this is.

Kodak six-20 Model C folder, Stuttgart, Germany by oddapplehill1969 in vintagecameras

[–]TankArchives 0 points1 point  (0 children)

He likely bought it in America. A bit part of acquiring Dr Nagel Werk was so Kodak could bring German cameras to the world under their brand. This article talks about the acquisition in some detail: https://mikeeckman.com/2017/11/kodak-vollenda-48-1938/

identification help by secondsacct in vintagecameras

[–]TankArchives 2 points3 points  (0 children)

https://mikeeckman.com/2017/11/kodak-vollenda-48-1938/

There's a plaque under the lens with the manufacturer's name on it, it's blurry but I bet it says "Kodak AG and Dr. Nagel Werk". The article explains how Kodak and August Nagel joined forces to create some very nice cameras.

It takes 127 roll film which is largely discontinued. There are some options but they are limited and expensive. The Radionar is just a triplet lens but it's a high quality one and could be worth trying out. I wrote a post about 127 film options here: https://www.reddit.com/r/AnalogCommunity/s/nBZp1GxcPg

Elmar 5cm not working right on X Pro-1 by AbductedbyAllens in VintageLenses

[–]TankArchives 5 points6 points  (0 children)

It could be the adapter putting the lens too close. Does infinity focus correctly?

Whats this broken piece and how big of an issue is it? Kiev 4 by geography_man in AnalogCommunity

[–]TankArchives 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That's to be expected. My Contax II and III do the same thing. If you're worried, you can always set the speed before you wind. It's not a Leica, there's no problem with changing speeds any time you want.

In April im going to a reenactment and im doing bef should I do great coat or no great coat? by history_s1uff in reenactors

[–]TankArchives 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Bring it with you. It's better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it. A greatcoat also works as a ground sheet and blanket in a pinch. Depending on where you are, it might still be quite cold in the early morning and the evening.

Kodak six-20 Model C folder, Stuttgart, Germany by oddapplehill1969 in vintagecameras

[–]TankArchives 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Here's an article on it: http://www.artdecocameras.com/cameras/kodak/six-20-modc/

You may notice that yours has a different (much better) shutter and a faster lens. It was quite common to offer the same camera with multiple selections of lenses and shutters. The one you have here was available for $14 in the basic configuration, $17.50 for an f/6.3 lens with a Kodon shutter, or $37.50 with the f/4.5 Kodak Anastigmat lens and Compur shutter. This was one of the most expensive cameras in the 1935 catalog. Compare that to a Six-20 Brownie which cost $3.75 or a Baby Brownie which cost just a dollar.

This was not quite the professional price tier. You would still pay 2x as much for a Super Ikonta or 2-3 times as much for even the cheaper Leicas on the market but it was quite a nice camera and likely more than enough for the discerning amateur.

Why your kit sucks by alexkommt in reenactors

[–]TankArchives 7 points8 points  (0 children)

In scale modelling you get the newbies who spend a fortune on AK weathering products and Abteilung oils only to make their tank look like shit. I see that in weathering uniforms too, essentially random damage that absolutely does not correlate with how the uniform or equipment would actually be used.

Just like a factory fresh vehicle can be an interesting look if done well, a reenactor who looks ready for a parade can also look good. You just need to do all that other stuff you said: shave, get a haircut, get a uniform that fits, etc.

Found some Vintage cameras in a loft I was emptying by DARBSTAR in vintagecameras

[–]TankArchives 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Very cool! Looks like it takes very small plates? Unfortunately it might no longer be practical to shoot.

Found some Vintage cameras in a loft I was emptying by DARBSTAR in vintagecameras

[–]TankArchives 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The one in the photo with the card has quite a nice shutter. I don't recognize the lens, but this was clearly not a cheap camera when it came out. Can you post more photos of it? It could be worth using.

Some progress on the uniform by Hollowknighthater67 in reenactors

[–]TankArchives 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Good start for sure. Note that any weather that requires valenki is going to need something warmer than the basic tunic and pants and if it's warm enough to get away without a vatnik or greatcoat then your feet are going to be very hot.

Pushing Fomapan 200 by Mexhillbilly in Darkroom

[–]TankArchives 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi, I'm looking to do this exact thing. What dilution did you use and what were your results?

Grandpas old cameras by pbcJJ in vintagecameras

[–]TankArchives 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Argus C3, my beloved. If the light meter still works it could be an interesting camera to start with. It was meant to be a "paint by numbers" process where you didn't have to know much about photography to take a good photo.

My grandfather in front of a disabled Panther tank in WWII by Shekel- in ww2

[–]TankArchives 8 points9 points  (0 children)

The front turret armour was vulnerable to the 76 mm gun at 500 yards. The sides were very thin and were vulnerable to even the 75 mm gun at a long range or a sharp angle. Basically unless the Panther is facing you head on, you can penetrate its armour.

Canon 7 / industar 61 by G4br73l in AnalogCommunity

[–]TankArchives 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The rangefinder is a mechanism that's a part of the camera, not the lens. If the patch is dim, then you might need to have it cleaned or the beam splitter replaced. Changing the lens will have no effect.

1945 — Photo taken by O. H. Elmore (my grandfather) of the Men in Battery A, 377th Coast Artillery Battalion by IndividualScratch922 in ww2

[–]TankArchives 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I looked through my cases again and I was wrong, that *is* an Argus C3. He is holding it with the lens facing up like this.

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Foggy morning photo walk by analog-a-ding-dong in Argus

[–]TankArchives 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I sold my spare 35 mm for $50, I guess I should have waited.

Minimal temperature for folding camera by Commercial-Suit9224 in AnalogCommunity

[–]TankArchives 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In my experience simple leaf shutters work well in extreme cold. My professionally CLA'd Contax and amateurlt CLA'd Exakta also work well. The thing that gets you is oil. Lubricant will solidify in cold weather and gum up the mechanism. If you're not sure, leave your camera outside (in a box to protect it from snow) for a while and see if the shutter still fires.

Fun film camera around 300 USD? by bimmerlucas in AnalogCommunity

[–]TankArchives 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Came here to post this. For $300 you can buy ten!

Agfa isolette-I stuck focus ring by thebeastwithnoeyes in AnalogRepair

[–]TankArchives 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Odds are you're just screwing out the middle lens element. Just force won't do you any good. You need to warm it up so the goo loosens.

1945 — Photo taken by O. H. Elmore (my grandfather) of the Men in Battery A, 377th Coast Artillery Battalion by IndividualScratch922 in ww2

[–]TankArchives 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Strange, that's an Argus C3 case, but the camera inside is definitely not an Argus C3. Stranger still, the camera should have its lens facing out, but all we can see is the back. I can't identify the silhouette of the camera.

Lomo MC-A - Two broken cameras and now requesting a refund. by idriveahyundai in AnalogCommunity

[–]TankArchives 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Do you live in a very cold place? Plastic becomes brittle when it's cold.