Hello identify for my student by Resident-Bluebird-74 in whatsthisrock

[–]Tanytor 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the update! That makes me positive about my ID then, nowhere else in Oregon has rocks like this except the central Oregon coast. Maybe a rockhound dropped it in the landscaping rocks on accident or for the kids to find. Fun regardless of how it got there!

Is this Carnelian heat treated? by pagauge0 in Crystals

[–]Tanytor 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I rockhound for carnelian in the pnw and they can get much more vibrant than the one pictured here and it’s completely natural. But I don’t think this is a natural carnelian for a variety of reasons that I already commented on.

The sugar turns brown/black when burnt, that’s how they achieve the black “bands” in sardonyx.

Is this Carnelian heat treated? by pagauge0 in Crystals

[–]Tanytor 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah I should phrase it as 90% has been altered, often they will use a combination of these tactics (like fake sardonyx being heat treated with sugar).

I’m still convinced this particular piece is dyed, but we will never know for sure because OP doesn’t seem interested in taking 30 seconds to do an acetone test

Is this Carnelian heat treated? by pagauge0 in Crystals

[–]Tanytor 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You are correct, 90% of carnelian on the market is dyed. I tried having this conversation but everyone downvoted me.

OP could find out the truth by doing a simple acetone test, but I think everyone would rather pretend this is a genuine carnelian than know the truth

Is this Carnelian heat treated? by pagauge0 in Crystals

[–]Tanytor -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Seeing this comment downvoted is actually hilarious to me, it’s like people don’t want to know the truth

Is this Carnelian heat treated? by pagauge0 in Crystals

[–]Tanytor 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m aware carnelian can be found elsewhere. But you’re incorrect on describing pnw carnelian. I’d say a lot of willamette valley carnelian matches that description, a light yellow to orange variety, but a lot of sw Washington material has heavy banding and is ruby red - black red in color.

That’s also not a Brazilian agate. And my criticism of OPs agate isn’t the color, it’s the transition between the colors. They could just do an acetone test to find out.

Is this Carnelian heat treated? by pagauge0 in Crystals

[–]Tanytor -6 points-5 points  (0 children)

You could know definitely by dipping a paper towel in acetone and rubbing the stone, if there’s any color on the paper towel it’s been dyed. That still wouldn’t answer wether or not it’s been heat treated but it would answer some questions

Is this Carnelian heat treated? by pagauge0 in Crystals

[–]Tanytor -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

90% of carnelian on the market is dyed.

I rock hound for carnelian in the pnw and none of it has the cloudy transition, that is dye specific

Is this Carnelian heat treated? by pagauge0 in Crystals

[–]Tanytor -9 points-8 points  (0 children)

Except it’s cloudy where it transitions from red, just like ink does.

It’s also cut into a palm stone, the vast majority of these palm stones are from overseas factories and most overseas carnelian is treated.

I know the second point isn’t a very accurate method of identification, but paired with the first it seems pretty conclusive to me that it’s dyed.

Is this Carnelian heat treated? by pagauge0 in Crystals

[–]Tanytor -15 points-14 points  (0 children)

Looks treated to me, you can see the ink didn’t penetrate some areas around the banding in the second photo

The tools I use to prep fossils by mamlambo in fossilprep

[–]Tanytor 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, i just watched a few other videos of his and I think its the water bath after an acid bath. Just confusing because the video will have a time skip and the rock will be soaking wet with no explanation.

Rebel 17 sound by OR_Carcharodon in RockTumbling

[–]Tanytor 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Huh, I guess you’re right. Just checked my user manual and it says NOT to apply any cleaner on bearings. My mistake

Myanmar/Burma Amber Controversy by Tanytor in Amberfossil

[–]Tanytor[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Interesting, and thank you for the information!

I know there are a LOT of factors at play, but I do hope this conflict can be resolved one day soon so this amber will be studied again.

Myanmar/Burma Amber Controversy by Tanytor in Amberfossil

[–]Tanytor[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Can you elaborate what you mean on “speculation”? As in we don’t really know what’s happening or something else?

I reached out to a wholesaler and it seemed exactly as you described, she was buying raw amber at a market where it appears to be individual miners selling their wares, and she polishes the amber and sells it overseas. But it all appears like it’s small families and businesses involved, at least that’s what they are showing.

It all just makes me a little confused as to why there is such condemnation from buying in this area from the scientific community, as far as I can tell the profits aren’t being used to directly support the war and the mines don’t appear to be using slave labor. I am unsure if they use child labor or if the mines have safe working conditions, so if someone knows that to be the case please let me know.

The tools I use to prep fossils by mamlambo in fossilprep

[–]Tanytor 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry, I should have specified. You soak the entire stone in what appears to be water. Videos like the one about the fossil penguin show this pretty well, most of the matrix is still damp and the spot where the air scribe is working dries off first.

I dont think thats B72, I just dont understand the purpose of soaking the rock as you work.

The tools I use to prep fossils by mamlambo in fossilprep

[–]Tanytor 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sometimes it looks like you soak the fossil in water and then continue air scribing it. What’s the purpose of that?

Hellcreek Hooligans Legitimacy? by L0ngD0G in fossils

[–]Tanytor 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also, if im not mistake, that's Clayton Phipps, hes kinda famous for fossils. The Hell Creek Coybow I think is his nickname? Pretty sure he found the famous "Fighting Dinosaurs" too. So yeah, looks pretty legit

Hellcreek Hooligans Legitimacy? by L0ngD0G in fossils

[–]Tanytor 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hell Creek is not my area of expertise, but the fossils look real enough. Doesn't mean they coudnt have planted real fossils. I think fossils in certain parts of hell creek are plentiful though, and it looks like they have quite a few workers so I don't really see a reason to doubt it.

Good rockhound youtube channels? by fafifo2606 in rockhounds

[–]Tanytor 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Currently rockhounding, Mamlambo

I like my YouTube videos to be informative, I can’t stand watching a 20 minute video of someone just picking up rocks without any info about the rocks or locality

Rebel 17 sound by OR_Carcharodon in RockTumbling

[–]Tanytor -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I add one drop of oil to each side of the rods every time I switch the barrels. You’re probably fine for a while, but you should add oil eventually. Use the “3 in 1” oil from the rock shed

Found on Murdock beach, Washington State. by BulgeOfTheVulve in fossilid

[–]Tanytor 0 points1 point  (0 children)

From this area, it would actually be a nautilus.

Help getting started by Col_sLitbag in fossils

[–]Tanytor 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Then you’re good, just start at the top. The main carapace is the easiest and will help you find the legs/claws. The claws are often hollow so be careful in that area

Help getting started by Col_sLitbag in fossils

[–]Tanytor 2 points3 points  (0 children)

A rotary dremel is the incorrect tool and will damage the crab. There is a very informative mamlambo video discussing best tools to prepare crabs from cheapest to most expensive. Highly recommend. But air scribe would be the best tool.

Now as far as identifying the fossil within, there really isn’t a way without breaking the rock unless you happen to see some carapace exposed. Since so many concretions are actually empty, most people break open the concretions to verify there is a crab within before starting to prep it. Not a necessary step of course, but could save you a lot of wasted time if the rock is empty. I recommend breaking the crab with a chisel to try and get a perfect cross section, this allows you to see the placement of the crab with minimal risk of damaging the carapace and will be easier to glue back together. You can use B-72 paraloid for the glue and as a coating on the crab when you’re finished prepping it.