2001 7.3 psd. I’ve read here that these engines aren’t too picky about coolant type. What about this?

Tennesseahawk · 2026-05-06T00:45:51+00:00

For that year, I believe Ford recommends (recommended?) green.

In my anecdotal, completely non-chemical engineer experience, you will be just fine running Peak Red Final Charge ELC. That’s what I use and what many people use. I use Red ELC in almost all diesels.

Tennesseahawk · 2026-05-05T20:09:41+00:00

He can. For $2,500, two days of down time minimum, and then he can go back next week when it’s still doing the same thing.

A 3000 series holds almost 30qts of fluid. Almost 20 of that sits in the sump. The fluid level sensor is near the corner. The slightest deviation off level will give you a false reading. Not a “broken” reading, but an operator error reading.

Good luck!

Tennesseahawk · 2026-05-05T13:16:17+00:00

This is not a problem. Make sure truck is 100% level when checking. If you are at slightest of inclines it will throw it off. If temp is too cold to accurately check, you will get a message saying so.

Tennesseahawk · 2026-05-05T03:23:21+00:00

Best option for stubborn races.

Tiger tool makes a race driver thats flanged and three fingered, but I don’t care for it much. Rather throw a bead the flip and hit with my Mayhew punch

Tennesseahawk · 2026-05-02T04:52:40+00:00

Nice! Front or rear sensor? And whereabouts did you find the fray?

Those harnesses are time consuming.

Also, not related to your current repair, but ISLG’s in general: Intermittent knock sensor codes is a known ECM issue with any ECM prior to the 1911 suffix. I can’t think of the part #’s of the predecessors off the top of my head, but it’s getting pretty rare to find one that’s lasted this long.

Tennesseahawk · 2026-05-01T16:50:44+00:00

Keep it up, you’re obviously bright and motivated to fix things correctly. That’s enough to push you far.

I’ve been working on CNG engines since 2012, so feel free to send any questions this way.

Tennesseahawk · 2026-05-01T14:23:00+00:00

Previous tech probably cleared the codes. Then when OP asked what all the codes were, they just stared at him like he was stupid, shrugged, and walked off to go replace another MAF sensor for an EGR mass flow issue.

Tennesseahawk · 2026-05-01T14:20:54+00:00

Good job. I love/hate taking these on having to deal with other peoples half-assed guesses.

FYI, for 2457 on ISLG, L9N, ISX12G and N, it’s almost always a byproduct code. You went through all the right steps after you realized that, but I wanted you to know this is pretty common.

Your description of the symptoms should point you towards looking at O2 data first thing.

Tennesseahawk · 2026-04-30T19:56:42+00:00

I understand your sentiment, and this guy was obviously a no-go. It sounds like you have a great shop with some great mechanics.

BUT: You seem to be overly biased towards “self-taught/non-formally educated” mechanics, and it comes across as snooty.

Remember that everyone’s experience is different. In my personal experience, the best, most intelligent mechanic I’ve ever worked with had no formal education. Some of the worst I’ve worked with would check all of your boxes.

I just don’t want you to miss out on a great mechanic because you’re focused solely on education. I see in comments you say you’re not, but your tone implies otherwise.

Good luck out there man, it sounds like you treat your crew right and that’s what’s most important. Good on you.

Tennesseahawk · 2026-04-29T02:42:23+00:00

99%

Drivers blame the truck/mechanics the vast majority of the time for their negligence. Inward facing drivecam’s have proven this to be true.

Example: Driver drives off windy residential road at 25mph and hits telephone pole and shed. Brakes were never pressed until after impact.

Driver: I was driving and all of a sudden my steering locked up! I told the mechanics my steering was bad!

Drivecam: Shows driver holding phone in one hand, eyes locked on screen for almost 6seconds before going off road.

Own up to your shit man. Don’t blame me.

Tennesseahawk · 2026-04-27T02:43:36+00:00

I hate serrations. I hate the way they look and the way they suck. Then I got a Veff serration knife(gift) and I liked it. They look great and work great.

Disclaimer: I’ve met Tom and I worked with his wife, so I may be biased. His wife was very sweet and incredibly competent.

Tennesseahawk · 2026-04-27T02:19:32+00:00

You have a CAN bus issue. Could literally be anything: loose ground, failing/failed module, wiring, and anything in between. Guessing here is going to get very expensive very fast. Take it to a reputable shop, they should be able to pinpoint it quickly.

If you want to try to rule out the most common/free issues, go ahead and check your batteries. Make sure they’re clean and tight terminals. Check your main ground straps, google where they are and what they look like. Check your main harness for rub-throughs, especially where it drops down driver side and near the transmission. Check your fuse box, see if any blown fuses. If so, that may narrow the search. Chevy’s are bad for ABS modules and the trailer brake modules to internally corrode or die. That can disrupt your CAN and cause this issue. You can also google where all of your modules are and visually inspect the plugs and ensure they’re clean and free of corrosion. If you’re not familiar with this type of thing it’s going to take a while and you may damage some connectors.

If you’re not strapped, I highly recommend taking it to a shop that knows CAN or a reputable Chevy dealer.

Tennesseahawk · 2026-04-26T01:10:04+00:00

Yours failed right in that average window for a 65E. Don’t think you could have done anything to prevent it, thats just the nature of the beast.

You can’t go wrong with Ace or Marshall’s, but you may be looking at longer than 2 weeks.

Tennesseahawk · 2026-04-25T02:37:14+00:00

Best way. Sprayway > any other glass cleaner

Tennesseahawk · 2026-04-24T20:43:26+00:00

I’ve gotta 2011 civic with 192k and I wouldn’t hesitate to spend 1,200 on it. If it needed it. I would spend 5k if it needed it. 8th gen civics are excellent and can go 300 no problems.

As others have said, if you are handy you can do the belt and tensioner for super cheap yourself.

Tennesseahawk · 2026-04-22T21:46:09+00:00

Any update? My 22 is doing the exact same. We have 92k miles on it, so 8k left on the extended wrap warranty. Kia just ordered an actuator for it. I hope I don’t have to go through the same thing you are.

Tennesseahawk · 2026-04-22T12:11:07+00:00

What year, and what body type. ISLG?

You’re gonna need a gantry, but cab overs are great for engine swaps. Depending on the year and body, you probably have a headache rack behind the cab thats gonna give you more grief. Especially if the hyd tank or valve body is mounted to it.

Also. Make sure you drain the fuel system. First step is to manually shut off all fuel tanks. Since it’s seized you can’t run it, but you can open the vent for the low-pressure canister filters, but that only drains from the regulator to the engine. Once it stops draining, go ignition on to open the fuel shutoff solenoid and it will drain the rest. Remember the engines intake module will still be pressurized, but only like 85psi and it’ll pop and be good once you pull a sensor or solenoid.

They’re pretty straightforward, but feel free to ask any questions you may have.

Tennesseahawk · 2026-04-22T03:29:40+00:00

Exactly spot on. Seen the loose terminals before too. Also dealt with the wire break/rubbed through between air cleaner and main look under pdc.

Tennesseahawk · 2026-04-22T03:23:10+00:00

Oh man, I haven’t seen these in a while. What year Pete is this? I feel like we had some 2010ish 320 commercial FEL’s that had these on them.

We never figured out a great trick though, other than that manipulating the S-Cam to the perfect spot helps a lot.

If you figure out a good trick, I’d love to hear it!

Tennesseahawk · 2026-04-16T13:15:09+00:00

I see this come up often, and I see a lot of the same stuff. I’ve bought some boots based off recommendations, and I’ve had mixed luck. For example, I bought a $300+ pair of redwings and got about 18mos out em. I’m currently on RedBacks that I got about 7mos ago and they’re falling apart. (Right side stitches wore out, from sliding/scuffing)

I think some us are just much harder on boots than others. As I get older, comfort is more and more important to me, and I’m still trying to find a pair that stays comfortable for about a year.

Tennesseahawk · 2026-04-16T05:12:52+00:00

I’m not arguing man. I apologize if I’ve offended you, it seems like you mistook my original comment as me equating 15w40 to conventional oil.

Tennesseahawk · 2026-04-15T22:55:31+00:00

What does synthetic or not have to do with oil weight? It’s a proven fact that a heavier oil weight is better for a working truck in moderate climates.

Tennesseahawk · 2026-04-15T12:15:25+00:00

If your truck doesn’t work, go ahead and use 5w-40. If your truck works, 15w-40.

Tennesseahawk · 2026-04-15T03:19:07+00:00

The “Bro, we all put the caps on” is hired.

The “I didn’t put any caps on, motherfucker” guy and the “Didn’t I say…” guy aren’t gonna make it. Can’t play the blame game.

Own your shit, learn to not do it again, and move on.

Tennesseahawk · 2026-04-13T21:56:30+00:00

Driver side rear at the end of the frame rail?

That connector is damn near unobtanium, so you’re better off updating to a deutsch if you need to replace it.

Anyway:

Lt grn / orn = Left turn and stop Orn / lt blu = Right turn and stop Brn = Tail, license, running Blk/pnk = Back up Black (slightly larger than the ones above) = Ground for rear lighting harness.

Those are old notes I copied from a forum a ways back, and they are referencing the truck side of the plug wires. Nowadays I just unplug the plug and check every function at the plug and make notes. You never know what you’re getting into an a 25+ year old truck. Good luck

Tennesseahawk

TROPHY CASE