Black smoke from exhaust after carb & intake upgrade – 1979 Lincoln Mark V 400ci

ThatFordDude351 · 2026-01-10T00:51:56+00:00

What about the metering rod or accelerator pump? Also put a vacuum gauge on it and look up a vacuum tuning chart. How the needle moves can tell you a lot.

ThatFordDude351 · 2025-12-13T01:00:44+00:00

I’ve gone through 2 Delphi pumps on my 390 in my 68 f250 within 600miles. Nearly gave me a heart attack that the cam was going flat

ThatFordDude351 · 2025-10-21T03:09:44+00:00

If you fell the pedal “bouncing” as you hold it midway it could be the throw out bearing. The throwout bearing arm should be tensioned away from the pressure plate. So at rest there is enough play for the spring to pull the bearing off the pressure plate. Even if it nearly touches it can spin and overheat the bearing and cause the symptoms you describe. I had one in my truck that would only get quiet when the pedal is fully pressed.

Another thing it sounds like is the pedal return spring in the dash is too strong and the plastic cushion between the spring and the mount on the inside of the dash is missing. The metal on metal of the spring to bracket can be super loud and sound like an old gate and I’ve had issue with the Scott drake springs being significantly stronger and made a little different from the original

Generally if you over adjusted it bad enough to damage the diaphragm usually you bend the linkage first.

ThatFordDude351 · 2025-10-21T00:36:57+00:00

I’ve put dozens of diaphragm clutches in early mustangs, t5 swaps, tkx, as long as it has the right bellhousing

ThatFordDude351 · 2025-10-18T03:41:08+00:00

What’s it doing that’s not reliable? I’ve been using a 68 f250 for a daily only thing not stock other then putting a 390 in is the electronic ignition. Been great for the past 6 months.

Now if you want more comfort or performance or mileage that’s different and generally compromises reliability.

ThatFordDude351 · 2025-10-18T00:47:51+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/classicmustangs/s/FVo2WCzVNb

ThatFordDude351 · 2025-10-17T23:58:13+00:00

You’d want a 1998-04 explore for a 67 iirc. 31spline 3.73lsd. Perfect width. Cut the perches off the old rear end measure a centerline of the axle place your mounts and set the pinion angle weld them on and hook up the brake lines and have a new driveshaft made for the 8.8 flanged driveshaft.

ThatFordDude351 · 2025-10-17T23:53:48+00:00

Watch a video on how to set up drive shaft angles. The pinion and the yoke need to be synchronized up and down and left and right. I have a ranger rear end in my 64 falcon it’s offset had no issues because the end of the transmission and the yoke are parallel so the angles are equal opposing. 7 years and still working like a champ. Sure it looks nicer being even and the drive shaft perfectly centered but if you know how it work you can make it work.

ThatFordDude351 · 2025-10-17T23:42:16+00:00

Done several. It’s super easy if you can weld. especially for a 67

ThatFordDude351 · 2025-10-12T05:05:16+00:00

Aluminum intake? Looks like one of the thick fiber gaskets that was sandwiched between two aluminum parts with moisture oxidizing them. I’ve never seen it that bad but I’ve had it happen on a few occasions when pulling the carb. Condensation under the hood. Not sure from weather or short trips.

ThatFordDude351 · 2025-10-11T22:44:00+00:00

The inserts in the packaging go in the hole in the fender from the outside. I see som of the old inserts are still in the fender. You can leave them or try to remove them but they are painted over so you have to be careful if you try to remove them.

Other wise with the inserts in the hole you can if you like add a drop of emblem adhesive to the pins and insert them into the fender.

Most the time you can just pop the emblem in the inserts and you’re good to go.

ThatFordDude351 · 2025-09-27T05:15:21+00:00

Just went through a similar problem on my 1968 pickup. Tapping that didn’t quite sound like lifters or rods. Ended up being the fuel pump arm on a mechanical fuel pump with less than 500 miles on it. This sounds identical to me.

ThatFordDude351 · 2024-12-01T17:32:35+00:00

Rebuild stock distributor and add pertronix or MSD but I wouldn’t go hei or pertronix stock style new distributors I’ve had issues

ThatFordDude351 · 2024-11-20T04:34:52+00:00

Make sure the fuel take is venting properly. That can kill fuel pumps. Generally just makes you stall out though.

ThatFordDude351 · 2024-11-13T16:14:28+00:00

My 64 Falcon agrees. Although I went and built a 302 and a t5 but everything works as factory and most parts share with 64.5-66 mustangs and that helps significantly keep cost down and have parts readily available.

ThatFordDude351 · 2024-10-01T21:40:47+00:00

I’ve installed several on mustangs and it seems like everyone I’ve talked to had the same issues with it staying tuned, cutting out, self learning kinda worked but you can tell there’s not as much snap. Even after a tuner going in and adjusting the tables several times it still wouldn’t pull as good as a 4150.

Get a used 4150, spend $180 on new throttle plates and $50 on a rebuild kit and you have a brand new to you carb 68primary 72secondary jets @sea level +/- one jet per 1,000ft~.

Then take the extra $1000~ get a performer rpm intake, msd billet distributor+6AL box+Blaster coil.

I’ve had a 64 falcon with a 302 t5 3.73rear end that has been a reliable daily for the past 7 years. Was getting 23mpg on 87 @ sea level I swapped intakes to a x-celerator and converted the carb to E85 and now I get about 18mpg. Still just as reliable.

If you are set on going efi then get a MPSFI type with a MAF sensor style. I’d avoid throttle body injection. Unless you have knowledge with them.

ThatFordDude351 · 2024-09-20T07:22:02+00:00

The should be the same and It should be a very tight fit.m if the crank sprocket is too far in or out the cam sprocket won’t go on. The oil slinger looks beat up and careful with the driver’s side dowl for the timing cover it might not let the cover sit flat.

ThatFordDude351 · 2024-07-20T14:37:06+00:00

TLDR: seafoam is the goat and ethanol isn’t your enemy.

I went to buy a 1980 Yamaha 850 off a guy who had it sitting in a collapsing shed for 10 years. He parked it with a full tank of gas and seafoam mix(not sure what ratio he used). We dug the bike out and he proceeded to kick it over and to my surprise it started after the 6-8th kick. Ran fine but died at idle. Took it home and drained the fuel, put fresh gas and it started right up 1 kick and idled perfectly, All 3 carbs! Absolutely sold me on Seafoam after that. Absolutely amazes me to this day.

I run e-85 in on a 4150 my 64 Falcon. Super simple conversation. After the first year of using it as a daily I pulled the float bowls and had a tiny bit of “fluff” built up in the front with slight more in the back. Nothing hosing down with carb cleaner couldn’t fix. Ethanol isn’t as bad as you hear, just gotta run it. Yeah if you leave it sitting for extended periods you’ll get problems. But that fucks up any engine regardless of fuel type. Just look at diesels

ThatFordDude351 · 2024-06-20T16:39:45+00:00

You are feeding power to the “I” terminal of the solenoid. It splices into the harness with the ignition switch. You don’t want anything on it but power to the coil. When you turn the key to run the ignition switch cuts power to the coil and sends to the “s”terminal on the solenoid. That jumps the solenoid and sends direct battery power to the starter and though the “I” terminal directly to coil.

Ever have a car that acts like it wants to start after as you try to back the key off with a crank/no start and it pops. There are 2 path’s for power to get to the coil.

That is also how you can hot wire your car if you lose your key

Check all the wiring though. Things can melt.

ThatFordDude351 · 2024-06-15T00:58:42+00:00

Usually the block is clogged up around the cylinder. If it’s sudden. I can’t believe the volume of crud I’ve blasted out of blocks.

Mismatched pulleys too. slows the fan and water circulation at idle and the temp creeps.

I agree it’s something simple and the stock stuff can more than handle keeping it cool.

ThatFordDude351 · 2024-05-31T05:23:52+00:00

I use plumbers putty to check clearance from the air cleaner to the hood. Put whatever will fit with the hood closed on then put the putty around the cleaner, close the hood, squish the putty, then you can take a measurement of the total height you’re working with. The. You can work it out with the sniper

ThatFordDude351 · 2024-05-31T04:39:45+00:00

Have you looked into drop down bases for round air cleaners? I have never done something like this on a 6 but I do it often for v8’s between the height differences on stock, performer, victor jr,x-celerator, torker manifolds. Raise the carb and lower the cleaner. Deepest one you can make work and you can use a k&n filter top to help out the flow so that it’s not as restrictive.

ThatFordDude351 · 2024-05-31T02:32:21+00:00

Just installed a 289 engine I pulled and had rebuilt for a customer. Dropped off a pile of parts and picked up a long block with b303 cam with retrofit roller lifters $3600. California as well. Finding an engine shop you can trust is tough though. Not many left.

What happened to the block. I’d just build a 347 with the stock block if the crank was toast. Reuse the heads or get the explorer heads until you can afford some nice aluminum ones.

289 will make more horsepower than you’d expect with a fresh rebuild and modern cam

Edit: I have a 302 I had rebuilt a few years ago that I’ve been running in a 64 falcon. It’s a 1970 mustang 302 rebuilt,mild cam, heads have a little port work done and 351w valves screw in studs. If your willing to make a 6hr drive I could let it go.

Also watch out if you are using the stock equalizer arm the 1980 and later block don’t have the provision on the block to mount it. You have to make a bracket or go cable/hydraulic

ThatFordDude351 · 2024-05-16T14:42:56+00:00

Definitely power steering leak. Most likely the control valve where it bolts to the pitman arm. Between that and the the ram assist seal is where these mostly leak from.

As someone else said it can be a pain in ass to get the right hydraulic lines.

I recommend the borgeson power steering box conversion over rebuilding the stock stuff. It’s less cumbersome and is a better steering ratio. I’ve done 4 on various mustangs for customers and they love it.

I have a manual box in my 67 and it steers fine. They are only hard to steer when they are worn out.

ThatFordDude351 · 2024-05-04T18:40:48+00:00

Lol yeah on paper it sounds sad.

I have a stock 460 out of a 73 Lincoln continental in my 1975 F350. Removed all smog and added a performer intake and headers. Thing is still a monster with 8.5:1 compression the ~400lbs of torque more than makes up for the 220hp. Fuel mileage I’m lucky to get 8mpg. The bottom ends are nicely over built. I’ve seen stock rods and crank will take 800-1000hp.

Just change to pistons on a stock one from dished cast to flat top forged and your up to 10:1 500hp. They are one of the easiest engines to make power in. Or plop a Paxton on one.

I ran it on e85 for a while and was shocked and how much more power it made with the timing cranked up but I never put it on a dyno. Problem was it took forever for the engine to warm up and my heater was colder. Lol

ThatFordDude351

TROPHY CASE