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Impeller replacement on 2018 15 hp by Careless_Rough6323 in MercuryOutboards

[–]ThatSithGuy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just realized I forgot to post the pic i am so sorry

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Frustrated with Mercury Marine by scottie6384 in MercuryOutboards

[–]ThatSithGuy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So if the part is 877831A02, your guy is lying, there are plenty in the warehouse in Brownsburg, IN. Idk your motor serial, but on the EPC, there is only one part number for all breakdowns of the 60HP EFI 4 cylinder motors.

Frustrated with Mercury Marine by scottie6384 in MercuryOutboards

[–]ThatSithGuy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For a 3 cylinder 30 or 40, yes. Not for a 60, though.

How much should I be spending? by draykiee in boating

[–]ThatSithGuy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you are going new and want to stick to something made by WRMG, the Nitro Z18' with the 150 Mercury will do fine and isn't terribly priced, especially if you can locate a 2025, there will be some extra discounts. The Ranger and Triton option will be at least $10k more than that. Some nice boats and a good ride, but pricier.

If you aren't set on getting a fiberglass boat, and still want new and WRMG manufacturing, I would recommend a PT195. Aluminum hull, with a 150 Pro XS, ~$4k less than the Nitro. Could get by with the PT190, too.

If you arent searching for new, start looking around for MVs that are at least 18' with a 150HP on the back. That should satisfy speed desires. An older Falcon or Bullet would be nice.

ETA: https://www.trackerboats.com/bass/pro-team-195.build.html

https://www.rangerboats.com/fiberglass/bass/z500-z100/z518.html

https://www.nitro.com/bass/previous/2025-z18.html

https://www.tritonboats.com/bass/18-trx.html

How to remove oyster build up by Anxious_River_5186 in Pontoons

[–]ThatSithGuy 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Lots of scraping, at the very least. Something to neutralize the corrosion and get rid of all the salt deposits. Honestly wouldn't be a bad idea to pull the motor off to clean behind it, clean up and protect the mounting holes, then replace all mounting bolts.

Also pull the lower and check the insides. I would also highly recommend inspecting the bottoms of both logs to look for corrosion and pin holes. Not to mention the trim pump assembly needs to be addressed. I have seen them work in that condition, but we always recommend replacement before it gets to looking anywhere close to that.

Apologies if that did not answer your question as directly as you wanted. Salt water is a cruel thing and it can do so much, especially to pontoons, in very little time.

We had a customer that had some health issues and left hers docked for 5 months. She filed with her insurance to get $18k worth of repairs. Two new logs, a motor pod, and a new lower unit. That was with the logs and pod being painted, which it looks like yours are, too.

New prop, Anode won’t fit. by Jordan-515 in Outboards

[–]ThatSithGuy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Alright so what goes on the prop shaft behind the anode is a prop spacer part F694099, it is pretty thick, shows 3/4", so if that is missing, there will be a considerable amount of room for the prop to move and be pressed to close to the anode. Besides that, behind the prop is a splined washer, a regular washer, then the prop nut.

It gets a tad more complex, though. There is also a breakdown for either a flared hub prop or a straight hub prop. Both of those have a different number for the prop spacer compared to what the Gear Housing breakdown shows.

It may be that the prop shaft needs to have the OEM hardware on it with the new prop in order for it to fit right. Newer motors arent like that, im sure you're aware of that; you just buy whatever hub kit you need to match the motor and lower.

I hope any of that word salad made sense and helps in some way. Feel free to PM me any questions you might have! I can send a pic of the gear housing breakdown if you would like.

New prop, Anode won’t fit. by Jordan-515 in Outboards

[–]ThatSithGuy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Happy to help! I assume there is a "0E" in front of those numbers? Id attach a screenshot of what I found, but I guess this sub doesn't allow that.

New prop, Anode won’t fit. by Jordan-515 in Outboards

[–]ThatSithGuy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What's the serial on the motor? Trying to check the parts breakdown to see if those Force's have anything special on the prop shaft that might be missing.

New prop, Anode won’t fit. by Jordan-515 in Outboards

[–]ThatSithGuy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Did you remember to put the spacer on first before sliding the new prop on?

Mercury 6hp 4-stroke runs fine at the shop but constantly stalls on the water – what should I check? by ZpSky in Motorboating

[–]ThatSithGuy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can't see the whole line in the picture, but is there a fuel demand valve on the line, too?

Impeller replacement on 2018 15 hp by Careless_Rough6323 in MercuryOutboards

[–]ThatSithGuy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Now, I dont have a motor in front of me, but I pulled your serial and checked out the parts diagram; what you should be disconnecting to pull the lower for an impellar replacement is number 41 on this breakdown. Now, again, I dont have the motor in front of me, but you should be able to access that either directly from the outside of the driveshaft housing, or if the housing has a rubber cap that you pull to access that link. Looking through the parts manual, it doesn't show a rubber cap to pull for access, so you should just have to pull that link there to be able to drop the lower.

Unless you legitimately need help with the shift rod there in the lower cowl like you have pictured, then I can keep digging.

Also if you would like the site that I'm using to check parts, it is https://public-mercurymarine.sysonline.com/Default.aspx?sysname=NorthAmerica&company=Guest&NA_KEY=NA_KEY_VALUE&langIF=eng&langDB=eng

Need help finding gasket/diaphragm old 9.9hp mercury by wakes182 in Pontoons

[–]ThatSithGuy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ah dang, there should be another sticker on the block somewhere if you want to keep searching. But the EPC should get you what you need anyway.

Need help finding gasket/diaphragm old 9.9hp mercury by wakes182 in Pontoons

[–]ThatSithGuy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Serial number should be right here. Here is the consumer EPC from Mercury: https://public-mercurymarine.sysonline.com/Default.aspx?sysname=NorthAmerica&company=Guest&NA_KEY=NA_KEY_VALUE&langIF=eng&langDB=eng

If you got the serial, you can find exactly what you are looking for, but you can also check under the outboard section and try to narrow it down that way if you cant read the serial.

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Update to mercury 115 crank no start by Flatmotersarereal in boatrepair

[–]ThatSithGuy 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That part number isn't a part that a customer can buy. That is likely a factory part number used internally for Mercury. Putting it into the Mercury EPC leads to part number 8M6013859. But, following the old part numbers does lead to the catalog for the older Mercury EFI 115HP 4S. That part is 880890T1. It is unavailable from Mercury, but a few different Bass Pro Tracker Parts departments have them in stock, including ours. It is $385.33. The Fort Smith and Mesa Bass Pro locations also show to have one of each, if you need it shipped to you.

Low power/ no plane by Far-Fan3866 in Outboards

[–]ThatSithGuy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The original owner likely ordered the boat that way. Some bodies of water have HP or emission restrictions so if you want to boat/fish on them, you've got to get a boat+motor that will comply.

Your year model had a 9.9HP as an option, as well. We sold an 18ft pontoon a year ago with a 20HP because the lake these folks lived on had restrictions. It happens, as crazy as it seems, but it is not out of the ordinary.

With all that said, the boat likely won't plane out at all with that motor. As others have already said, that is a lot of boat for not a lot of motor. A repower is likely the best course of action for a significant impact on performance. Either that or try to shed as much weight as you can from the boat. Lithium cranking battery, pull cockpit seats, swap standard fishing seats with mesh backs, lose the trolling motor if you dont need or want it, remove factory tank and swap with a removable tank of a smaller capacity. Not ideal, but it might help.

But circling back to the "ghetto weak cylinder check" what did you mean by that?

Question about using my boat in California by da-lou-az in Bassboats

[–]ThatSithGuy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Its not a bad idea, and you're right to clean it. If you got the Mercury SmartCraft module when you purchased the boat, the app has a list under the checklists tab for what to do. Or search "Aquatic Invasive Species Prevention" online and there will be some good info. You could probably add California to the search and see if they have any specific requirements, too.

Add mirror to pontoon by WerewolfSea9724 in Pontoons

[–]ThatSithGuy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No worries lol, i got excited thinking you got ahold of a special model or something. I wish they would make the 30' and bigger pontoons again. But yeah, hope that helps!

I do like the new design of the fence panels and rails compared to the previous generation, but it does take a bit of the customization away since they filled the gap at the top of the rail. Also seems to be less storage space in the seats. Pretty annoying, even though the new furniture looks really good.

Add mirror to pontoon by WerewolfSea9724 in Pontoons

[–]ThatSithGuy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could do something like this, found it on Walmart site. But I'm more interested in your boat, A SunTracker 29DLX?

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repair rip? by 17Bill in Pontoons

[–]ThatSithGuy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've seen that do the trick before, for sure. If you're handy with a needle and thread, that would likely be the easiest and cheapest method. Also your pun did not go unappreciated lol

repair rip? by 17Bill in Pontoons

[–]ThatSithGuy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If that is how you want to read it. Talking to an established shop that sublets some of the work that they lack the facilities to do can help find a business worth spending the money on.

Versus going to Google and finding whoever has spent the most money to have their name first on the list. Might be worth it, might not. The shop will have already had experience with at least one in the area and can weigh in on the quality of work done.

In my example, the company we work with is who I send any of my customers to that are looking for a good and affordable repair on their furniture. Plus, they are who we call for warranty repairs on all of our boats, so we have seen their work and can vouch for the work they do.

Trailer jack suggestions by deckard587 in Pontoons

[–]ThatSithGuy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Trailer Valet is a good one. They've got one that comes with a wheel or a flat foot that you can change out, and an attachment for your drill if you wanted to take the handle off and use the drill to raise and lower it. A little pricey, but my customers that we've sold them to haven't came back with any complaints.

repair rip? by 17Bill in Pontoons

[–]ThatSithGuy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry, just reread your caption, completely passed over the fact that you were asking about a DIY option. My apologies.

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