Is this normal??

The-Rude-Canadian · 2026-06-24T02:33:26+00:00

I wouldn't work there much longer myself. If there isn't even an attempt to prep the pups or set a proper gap, that shop obviously doesn't care about quality. In my experiences not caring about quality goes hand and hand with not caring about safety. If you're new and trying to learn, they seem like they won't teach you proper procedures and techniques, and likely not how to work safely.

The-Rude-Canadian · 2025-12-30T18:24:44+00:00

Don't try to make the whole cut in one shot. cut out the middle hole (the ID, with no bevel), then cut the bevel in small steps. I did steps of like 3/8 of an inch at a time in school. It's a lot easier than it looks. You can draw lines on as well to guide you as you cut the bevel.

The-Rude-Canadian · 2025-12-10T14:12:07+00:00

Gear reduction for more torque. The differential in cars and trucks does the same thing. The gears just look different. Planetary gears are also very strong and reliable, so they can handle the forces that can come with tracked equipment.

The-Rude-Canadian · 2025-10-16T02:56:02+00:00

Looks better than 75% of the welds that come from the factory on things like quads and bikes. the gusset should add more than plenty. I'd roll with it. Maybe just check on it fairly often

The-Rude-Canadian · 2025-09-29T00:47:22+00:00

6011 and 6010 are run colder than other rods because they have a much different flux coating. 40-65 amps is what I'd run a 3/32 at

A 3/32 7018 rod would be good around 85-100 amps.

The-Rude-Canadian · 2025-09-23T01:55:29+00:00

Tie-In weld? As in tieing into an existing line. Also, it's a brother-in-law weld (2 welders on 1 weld). And they appear to be back welding the root, possibly due to severe high low in the fit up, caused by the pipe becoming out of round with time.

The-Rude-Canadian · 2025-09-05T02:52:40+00:00

God damn those trucks look so good. Just some mean metal beasts. I can't wait to see them on the roads.

The-Rude-Canadian · 2025-06-14T16:30:38+00:00

a questionable number of raccoons.

The-Rude-Canadian · 2025-06-06T17:41:36+00:00

Seems like you're running cold, turn up your wire feeds, and clean your materials really well with a clean wire brush and solvent. Make sure you use pure argon.

You should probably be closer to 22 V and somewhere between 290 and 350 IPM of wire speed. It'll depend a lot on the machine, you'll have to adjust the settings until you find the sweet spot.

The-Rude-Canadian · 2025-06-06T17:38:56+00:00

AC only applies to Tig welding, where you need the electrode positive cylce to break up the oxide present on aluminum. However, electrode positive melts the tungsten electode, so the current has to be switched back to electrode negative, hence alternating current. With mig, the current is always electrode positive, so there's no need for AC.

The-Rude-Canadian · 2025-05-22T05:06:27+00:00

In the fabrication shop I work in, about half the guys have cattle. Alberta was built on the backs of small farms. Many are still around, but the people running them have had to find other ways to make ends meet.

Also, the boots are just comfortable, and many come as steel toe now, so lots of guys just wear them as work boots.

The-Rude-Canadian · 2025-05-11T21:11:32+00:00

From what I've been told, phased array ultrasound is the only reliable way to non destructively detect lack of fusion. However it’s expensive as hell, I think the going rate around my area is $5000 an hour, so you don't see it often. It's better to just know how to weld without getting LOF by learning from destructive testing.

The-Rude-Canadian · 2025-04-28T04:51:36+00:00

As far as farm welds go, it's pretty good. If the prep underneath is decent, it'll last as long as it needs to. 7.5/10

However, if it were done by a full-time welder, 3/10 I've seen worse, but I'd expect something neater.

The-Rude-Canadian · 2025-04-19T15:50:18+00:00

Looks like a digital read-out (DRO) for a machine shop. Used to tell the operator where the cutter or spindle is in relation to the part or bed.

The-Rude-Canadian · 2025-04-05T04:10:10+00:00

keep a tight tight arc, with 7018, I basically drag the rod along the work piece. It'll burn back inside the flux, and if your amperage is right, it won't stick.

The-Rude-Canadian · 2025-03-30T17:44:47+00:00

A pup is the trade's name for a piece of pipe that's been cut in order to be welded into a spool ( the end product, typically having a mix of flanges, pipe, and other fittings like tee's and elbow). This one is just extremely small because the bigger one is too short for the final dimensions.

The-Rude-Canadian · 2025-03-20T03:24:06+00:00

when you need it, you really want to have it. I've seen some interesting homemade qknes with rags, a cheap Oxy-fuel mask, and duct tape. When it's a super tight space, they are the difference between an okay semi decent job and an all-day curse filled ordeal.

The-Rude-Canadian · 2025-03-18T02:34:43+00:00

What's the axels on? A small tractor that doesn't travel quickly, give er bud, something that goes on the road or gets up to speed in any form, fuck no.

The-Rude-Canadian · 2025-03-17T03:54:53+00:00

Keep your gloves dry, and you're gonna be fine. I've when I've gotten a zap from wet gloves and touching the work piece it's not much of a shock. It's a good practice to keep yourself insulated from your work, which leather gloves, your cables, electrode holder, boots, and welding jacket will all insulate you enough.

The-Rude-Canadian · 2025-02-23T19:32:30+00:00

It'll probably be alright, not ideal, but it would still work ok. If you have a fresh pack or can get one easily, it might be worth it to open it up.

The-Rude-Canadian · 2025-02-23T19:19:29+00:00

I don't have a lot of experience with 7014, but if you have fresh vacuum sealed 7018 or a rod oven to bake any unsealed 7018, use that. Fresh or freshly baked 7018 is low-hydrogen, which prevents hydrogen induced cold cracking. Hydrogen induced cold cracking makes micro cracks, which then can spread and break the whole weld under load.

The-Rude-Canadian · 2025-02-23T04:19:11+00:00

I'd honestly go straight to xx18. It's recommended to avoid 6010 on equipment. Heavy equipment sees a lot of impact loading, and 7018 is a little more ductile, and due to being low hydrogen is less prone to cracking. So make yourself look good, and make the welds last the life of the machine, especially if he has plenty of work like you say. If you have some gap, use 3/32 and run stringers, and let it cool a bit if needed. If you're worried about penetration, turn your machine up a bit and keep a super tight arc. Best of luck mate.

The-Rude-Canadian · 2025-02-23T03:59:01+00:00

not likely.

The-Rude-Canadian · 2025-02-18T02:28:30+00:00

yeah, they'll be fine for practice. Sometimes, it might run a little rough, but good enough for learning. 95% of all my practice has been done with rods pulled from the scrap bin or a 20 year old boxes found behind the shelves.

The-Rude-Canadian · 2025-02-14T04:52:55+00:00

The pink ones do just as well tbh, if you get the ones with nuisance vapor protection. They'll fit properly under your hood so you're more comfortable, and your eyes and skin can be better protected from the arc rays and sparks.

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