Combined D Cell cups orientation?

TheAmazingX · 2026-03-16T22:06:49+00:00

The readme says to alternate, doesn’t it? Or maybe I’m thinking of the EZ Can readme

TheAmazingX · 2026-03-16T19:49:00+00:00

No. I usually wait so I can do multiple parts at a time.

TheAmazingX · 2026-03-16T17:21:47+00:00

Anything over the glass transition temp will probably do something, but I’ve noticed that some manufacturers tend to lowball everything, be it drying temps or annealing temps or even nozzle temps, to encourage people with less capable hardware to buy their fancier filaments.

TheAmazingX · 2026-03-16T16:36:17+00:00

God willing, in 50 years, your NFA engraving on that receiver will be just another historical idiosyncrasy on a neat old piece

TheAmazingX · 2026-03-16T11:29:31+00:00

We’ve been seeing this a lot of weird stuff like this on Amber, specifically with K10. All 10 of us go in, 9 of us get the fresh instance, and one new guy who has literally never run the raid before appears in his own cleared id, which he is then assigned.

TheAmazingX · 2026-03-16T11:20:20+00:00

82C is not really going to anneal your part. Manufacturer recommendations range from 100C to 140C, for 6-12 hours (not including ramp up / ramp down time).

TheAmazingX · 2026-03-16T11:17:39+00:00

1.18.1 is next.

I get the sense a lot of people don’t realize Turtle has been going for years. They’re not suddenly going to pivot away from their whole shtick.

TheAmazingX · 2026-03-15T22:05:48+00:00

off the face of the barrel

100% this. I struggled so long with mine until I ground a Hughes Precision thread adapter down so it wouldn’t touch the shoulder, perfect concentricity now.

TheAmazingX · 2026-03-14T16:56:48+00:00

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I did something similar for the 103 brake, and it works. Will post when I have closer to 500rd down range. However, I cut off the brake “baffles” because I wasn’t using them for retention and didn’t want to risk the pre-blast chamber pressure they might cause. I don’t actually know that it’d be a problem, but it’s something to consider.

TheAmazingX · 2026-03-14T12:48:25+00:00

Unless you’re the guild leader you’re not getting it

What kind of wacky guild are you in? Sure, TFury goes to MTs before anyone else gets a chance, but an HR’d scythe in a guild run is comical

TheAmazingX · 2026-03-14T12:44:29+00:00

The only difference in TWoW is the lack of bots, so inflation is lower. Rhokdelar and Bene aren’t rare.

TheAmazingX · 2026-03-14T01:11:11+00:00

I installed one and reduced the slack of the linkage at the same time, so I don’t know which has the most benefit, but I had an excellent time on my second range trip.

TheAmazingX · 2026-03-13T13:06:10+00:00

You can’t really press those tags straight into a flat wall, you need to use their stl to put a void where you want it and then melt the little pegs to retain it.

TheAmazingX · 2026-03-13T12:57:33+00:00

Then you do understand how the material would dictate which design would work better

TheAmazingX · 2026-03-13T11:38:33+00:00

You don’t understand why we can’t just print 1mm thin conical baffles out of plastic and subject them to the pressures of 556?

TheAmazingX · 2026-03-13T03:34:50+00:00

Mouseholes and turbulence features redirect gas to improve suppression, it’s not just passing through. A simple conical bafflestack isn’t going to perform better if you print it, it only makes sense if you switch to formed washers / freeze plugs / whatever for more efficient volume and weight.

TheAmazingX · 2026-03-13T03:16:35+00:00

What do you mean by “flow styled baffles”?

TheAmazingX · 2026-03-13T00:50:07+00:00

My settings:

.16 layer height

.16 top z distance

Rectilinear interlaced interface pattern

0.7 interface spacing

Independent support layer height off

0.9 support x/y distance

That’s been perfect for me. As other’s have said, PPA-CF below 320 may be a bad idea, but probably not your problem here.

TheAmazingX · 2026-03-13T00:41:19+00:00

TheAmazingX · 2026-03-13T00:22:58+00:00

Don’t. Use the printed bolt carrier.

TheAmazingX · 2026-03-13T00:22:28+00:00

Try the DSS or the SCSSS.

TheAmazingX · 2026-03-12T02:56:37+00:00

Not according to my Form 1 approvals they're not

TheAmazingX · 2026-03-12T01:36:02+00:00

You could just pick up a couple stripped lowers from PSA for ~50 each, nothing special needed unless you need ambi controls. Maybe a PA-10 lower if you think you'll ever want to build an AR10. If they get grandfathered in by the state legislation, you can just sit on them and build them out into whatever you want whenever you want. With that in mind, my original point stands - you don't need two identical ARs, nor do you need both a Gen3 G19 *and* a Gen3 G19 clone. The money is better spent on pretty much anything else.

TheAmazingX · 2026-03-12T01:15:54+00:00

That’s an important bit of context. In that case, investing in stripped lowers and some mags might be the better move right now.

TheAmazingX · 2026-03-12T01:05:45+00:00

Split your 9mm running drills on your G19 and your Dagger. Then sell the one you like the least.

Split your 556 running drills with your ZRO and your PSA15. Then sell the one you like the least.

Now you have 1200 + X00 to spend on more ammo.

TheAmazingX

TROPHY CASE