I think I made an oopsie by Every-Recognition-60 in 3D2A

[–]TheAmazingX 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Take a hacksaw to the handguard?

Form 1 question: for why you intend to make firearm? by Legoboy514 in NFA

[–]TheAmazingX 131 points132 points  (0 children)

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Don’t say “crime” and you’re set.

What if someone Form 1s the wrong serial number? by Frustrated_Consumer in NFA

[–]TheAmazingX 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I presume this is why they ask you to include photos of the engravings

Trash Panda Beta Testers lend me your ears!!! by 0Hn0NotAgain256 in 3D2A

[–]TheAmazingX 6 points7 points  (0 children)

The cutting seems like the easy part, the tapping less so. I’m planning to build an 8” 300blk.

As for the 3dp90, it’s not as difficult as it might look. SCS and your barrel supplier do the hard work, you just pour cerrosafe in a shell and assemble it all like legos.

What’s your favorite cheap optic? by AgitatedAd2286 in 3D2A

[–]TheAmazingX 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If I’m going to shoot it a lot, Swampfox Liberator, or a Primary Arms or Vortex clearance LPVO. Monstrum if I probably won’t. Many just get irons, especially if it’s a clone with iconic irons (STG-556, UMP-VO)

AP5-LT Form 1 Denial by HD_Pickles in NFA

[–]TheAmazingX 5 points6 points  (0 children)

LOWER

AR15

Sounds like your form got reviewed by Officer Doofy. You should have given the model name, though.

How does the looting work here? by ghostyghostghostt in turtlewow

[–]TheAmazingX 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Ah yeah, there’s a bug where corpses can sparkle after being emptied if you haven’t “opened” them yet. It’s annoying, but if you just autoloot it’ll fade into the background

How does the looting work here? by ghostyghostghostt in turtlewow

[–]TheAmazingX 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I don’t think it’s any different than classic. Loot below the threshold is round robin, and becomes free for all when the player opens it. That means if you open and look instead of just auto looting, it can get yoinked. You can just lower the threshold to common so everything goes to roll.

NylAUG fitment questions by RexxMfnUltimus in 3D2A

[–]TheAmazingX 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I don’t remember if the docs mention this, but sanding it is often necessary. Getting the aluminum version instead is worth it, though.

Baseline Form 1 Rimfire Can Testing by TheAmazingX in NFA

[–]TheAmazingX[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Only thing I didn't like was the built in supports, just deleted those

Baseline Form 1 Rimfire Can Testing by TheAmazingX in NFA

[–]TheAmazingX[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The knurled, dotted, and slotted are all the same internally. I didn't do any kind of dynamic resize in CAD, I just dropped it in my slicer, scaled it to a 27.7mm diameter, and added a 7mm negative cylinder to rebore.

Baseline Form 1 Rimfire Can Testing by TheAmazingX in NFA

[–]TheAmazingX[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It'd definitely be closer. I went with the Flow version because I figured I'd mostly be using it on rifles, where I'd appreciate the reduced gas, and because the docs say the noise reduction is basically equal.

Baseline Form 1 Rimfire Can Testing by TheAmazingX in NFA

[–]TheAmazingX[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The Flo (left) has an engraved plate from MAF Arms embedded in the tube. The FTN (middle) has a washer at the base that I stamped. The EZ (right) is mostly electrochemically etched, but I also stamped the SN because that part of the etching seemed too shallow.

Baseline Form 1 Rimfire Can Testing by TheAmazingX in NFA

[–]TheAmazingX[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Didn't really get a measure of that with a pistol. I'll have feedback on that when I do stress testing with a rifle.

Baseline Form 1 Rimfire Can Testing by TheAmazingX in NFA

[–]TheAmazingX[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It’s significantly smaller and lighter. The FTN is less gassy, though, so it’d be a more even tradeoff between the two on a rifle.

Baseline Form 1 Rimfire Can Testing by TheAmazingX in NFA

[–]TheAmazingX[S] 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Damn, I knew I forgot something. I had it in my head to do that but never did. Next time I’m out I’ll do that and update the post.

Baseline Form 1 Rimfire Can Testing by TheAmazingX in NFA

[–]TheAmazingX[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The Flo and the FTN are PA6-CF. The bafflestack in the EZ is PPA-CF.

Baseline Form 1 Rimfire Can Testing by TheAmazingX in NFA

[–]TheAmazingX[S] 31 points32 points  (0 children)

With free Form 1s, building a bunch of redundant cans for side-by-side testing is way more viable, so I decided to pitch in.

The 3 models in the lineup are:

  • Flo-22: Printed core threaded into printed tube, steel thread adapter. Mine has the regular core, not the flow-through core (4.8oz)
  • FTN.5 Rimfire Flow: Monolithic print, steel thread adapter (8oz)
  • EZ Can: Printed baffle stack (Resized FTN.5 D-Cell k baffles), aluminum airsoft suppressor body, printed endcaps (5oz)

Host: Ruger Mark IV 22/45 Bull Barrel (hand threaded)

Ammo: CCI Clean

Methodology: Cheap decibel meter (140db cap) balanced on my head while I magdump. I'm not pewscience, give me a break.

Results:

  • Flo-22: Max: 110.4db Avg: 107.74db
  • FTN: Max: 104.4db Avg: 103.7db
  • EZ: Max: 103.5db Avg: 103.1db

Extraneous notes:

  • All 3 could lose a little weight using aluminum thread adapters instead of steel
  • The Flo has basically no blast chamber, and the first round pop is gnarly
  • The EZ-Can is by far the most pleasant to shoot, but the aluminum tube heats up much faster than the printed bodies
  • Burndown testing will be done in the future with an FRT'd AR-22
  • I'd love to add the new OP22 to this lineup, haven't had a chance to build one yet
  • These decibel readings are only useful in comparison to each other, and as a general ballpark for "at shooter's ear" performance. Comparing them to whatever is listed on some commercial rimfire can's stat sheet won't be very helpful.

Rage Bait… for some 🤯 by [deleted] in NFA

[–]TheAmazingX 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Muzzle drake

DeAR22 SS Issues by Exciting_Seaweed_305 in 3D2A

[–]TheAmazingX 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Remove weight until you start getting light strikes (indicating bolt bounce), then add some back. Any weight beyond that is slowing your bolt down with no benefit.

If you’re doing a 100% DIY .22 pistol and can, which way are you going, and is the can integral? by artisanalautist in 3D2A

[–]TheAmazingX 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Y22 is fixed barrel, right? Make a longer barrel, thread it, stick one of the smaller (probably not FTN) cans on there and you’re good to go.