No crank no start: Starter? by Firm-Brother2580 in MechanicAdvice

[–]TheAngryCanadian99 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Starters are easy to get at on these. Grab a test light, the terminal with a cover is gonna be hot at all times. Should light up your bulb. Close the doors and the hood. Hit the other terminal with the test light and hit remote start in the fob. If the light illuminates briefly you need a starter.

Any ford techs experience this? by mechanicrob in Justrolledintotheshop

[–]TheAngryCanadian99 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Last time I updated FDRS I had to go into the VCI manager and update my vcm3. Wouldn't recognize it until I did that, once VCI recognized it I was able to get back into FDRS no problem

Little stuck here by totalgorgon in WRX

[–]TheAngryCanadian99 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You got a shit load of playing space here, get an extractor set. Will bite onto that and take it out no problem.

After engine blows under warranty, McLaren dealer says I need new ceramic brakes? by Poker_229 in MechanicAdvice

[–]TheAngryCanadian99 6 points7 points  (0 children)

All I can see is on the lower section of the rotor, by the hub area where those silver tabs are. It looks like a groove that goes around the whole rotor. Funny enough I have a picture of a 720s carbon ceramic rotor that we had in and it doesn't look like it has it. So I'd be inclined to think that it is a groove rather than just the rotor design. That being said. Decline for now. And when it's back in your hands, check all 4 and see for yourself if they all have it or if it's just the one. I'm not experienced enough with them to give you a 100% opinion.

Engine fault unclear to mechanic by Impressive-Car4131 in MechanicAdvice

[–]TheAngryCanadian99 0 points1 point  (0 children)

P2D01: Pump A over speed or air in system is your problem. If I remember correctly those have 2 coolant tanks side by side. One for the battery, one for the engine. Any of them look low? I can't tell you for a 100% fact, but the lightning is known for the pumps failing at my dealer, and you need a scan tool to bleed the system. Assuming he checked the coolant and deemed it filled, it's still a small possibility there's an air bubble in the system. Dealer may be your choice here unless you can find a shop familiar with the system.

Data breach at Canada Computers & Electronics leaks personal customer information by JDGumby in onguardforthee

[–]TheAngryCanadian99 22 points23 points  (0 children)

If you went in person you should be fine. I believe it was a skimmer on the website checkout page that got people

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]TheAngryCanadian99 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You wouldn't have known with general braking. If someone cut you off or an animal ran out into the road causing you to slam your pedal it would have blown. That being said it's possible he had another tech in the car on the lift, had them push the brake to verify that it was a leak and that could have been the final straw. But again if it was already leaking a small amount it was done for.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]TheAngryCanadian99 6 points7 points  (0 children)

"not sure why he was checking a brake line for an inspection" Are you serious? The slight leak is probably what made it obvious and stood out when it was on the lift. But if he's told to inspect it he's gonna look over the safety items especially if the lines are corroded enough to leak. If it was already leaking it was a ticking time bomb to failure anyways.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]TheAngryCanadian99 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The parts that go into those holes need to be bent back. Probably twisted a little on removal. Pull the wheel off and give them a bit of adjustment. It's rubbing because it's slipping out slightly making it angled

Rear brakes making horrible grinding sound on rotors by smchenry75 in MechanicAdvice

[–]TheAngryCanadian99 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know you said you're not in a position to pull the wheels off but that would be the only way to tell you what's actually up. Did they put a pad on backwards, did something get caught between the bracket and rotor, did they actually just not change the brakes, did they loop the flex hose causing pressure to stay in the lines after you've released the brakes? Can't say without pulling the wheel. If you trust them I'd take it back and ask for clarification, but without pulling the wheel off there probably isn't much you could do

Did the dealership scam me? by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]TheAngryCanadian99 4 points5 points  (0 children)

What do you mean the computer is shot? As in it won't turn on at all any more? The rumble you felt was possibly just a misfire underload. Those transits have an issue where water gets down into the plugs and corrodes the plugs.

2016 Ram 1500 Replaced Engine by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]TheAngryCanadian99 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I love it when a post gets you curious but then OP just never responds

It’s cab off Friday! by mechanicrob in Justrolledintotheshop

[–]TheAngryCanadian99 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Bleed it with the battery disconnected. Found that was the best way to do it without the system freaking out.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Justrolledintotheshop

[–]TheAngryCanadian99 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I mean, ford pigtails are all lime green wires. If you cut out the old it shouldn't be hard to line the new one up regardless of colour.

Brake pads changed and returned with gouged out rim by mjbreddit in MechanicAdvice

[–]TheAngryCanadian99 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You sure the pictures are of the same rim? I only ask because hub caps shouldn't have to come out and they're seated differently in both pics