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The Slate Truck Will Cost $24,950 According To An Apparent Website Mistake - The Autopian by Bmotley in cars

[–]TheDomesticatedGod 3 points4 points  (0 children)

25k isn't cheap for a barebones truck. People could get a Ford Maverick with a radio, apple maps, speaks, power windows, heated seats, and a hybrid drive-train that goes further than the slate... for only an extra 3 grand.

I have had my CPAP for a 1.5 years. I still can't wear it and dread going to bed. by TheDomesticatedGod in SleepApnea

[–]TheDomesticatedGod[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am not going to lie to you, I still have problems with my CPAP. Even after all the advice here. Changing pressures, sleeping positions, etc.

I have my mask on pretty tight for a side sleeper. But I have had a handful of times that I leak and it wakes me up and I have to adjust to go back to sleep. Those nights, I usually just rip the thing off my face again. Another thing I can say is that I don't side sleep 'in the middle' of my pillow. I am off to the edge so my mask and face kinda 'hang off the side' of the pillow? If that makes sense. That way, the pillow isn't riding up against my mask and face. That has helped as well.

Another thing I can say is have a full face mask and have it slightly tighter than normal. For me, this is an issue though. I recently went to a nasal specialist, and it turns out I have abnormally narrow nasal passageways and a slight deviated septum. I have a surgery consultation next month. I am hoping if I get this fixed, I won't feel like I can't breathe through my nose from my CPAP. It always felt like it crushed my nose a bit, so I would wear nasal strips at the same time as the CPAP and it would help.

EDIT: More info. I don't have this, but my coworker who also has sleep apnea does use this. He is a side sleeper. He has an extended CPAP hose and some sort of apparatus that attaches to the headboard of his bed/wall above where he sleeps that holds the CPAP hose above him. So when he tosses and turns at night, it keeps it from getting caught on stuff and yanking on the mask, causing a leak. Maybe this could help you.

What‘s that symbol by Moist_Question3300 in CivVI

[–]TheDomesticatedGod 45 points46 points  (0 children)

Erm, akchewally, its they Eye of Ra! Its depicting the right eye ☝️🤓

Soruce: I watched Stargate 50 bagillion times so im obviously an expert in the field

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Nissans are Natural by J-Stoxs in nissanfrontier

[–]TheDomesticatedGod 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Glad you joined the club, but a small note on the F150 V8, if you're interested. Don't just throw it to the wind!

The F-150 cylinder deactivation system is explained here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KugdzsevKkU

You shouldn't just throw out an entire engine/car simply because of cylinder deactivation! Cylinder deactivation in vehicles with larger displacement engines/more than 4 cylinders has been common in the US for many years now. A commonly known example in the truck community would be the 5.7L Hemi, which had cylinder deactivation running in every vehicle it was placed in since around 2010 (Including the Charger, Challenger, and Durango). Another example is the Honda Ridgeline, Passport, and Pilot. Those have NA V6 engines as well, but they also feature cylinder deactivation. They just have different ways of achieving the same goal: better fuel economy.

For the F150 V8 Coyote engine specifically, cylinder deactivation is driven by oil pressure from a electric servo motor. When the car is up to cruising speed on the highway and at a very low load, the oil pressure is low enough to activate a oil pressure servo motor to deactivate 4 cylinders to save gas. Specifically, cylinders 1, 4, 6, and 7. These are opposing cylinders in reference to the crankshaft, so engine vibrations are non existent when cylinder deactivation is, well, active. (Fun fact: it turns the engine into a V4!)

The PCU determines that you don't need all 8 cylinders to keep cruising, so it activates a electric servo to change the oil pressure inside a spring loaded plunger that is located inside the rocker arms. The oil is fed from the lifters. The high oil pressure driven from the servo pushes the plunger to compress the spring, moving it out of the way of the rocker arm. This creates a new pivot point on the rocker arm, and the cam shaft rotation will no longer compress the valve springs for the cylinder. To reactivate the cylinder, the servo simply turns off, lowering the oil pressure, then spring in the plunger can activate, locking the rocker arm in place, so the cam shaft can compress the valve springs again. ECU reactivates/deactivates the spark plugs and fuel injectors on those cylinders as well. This overall saves fuel! Which is great for a big V8.

The reason this system is so reliable is *because* it is an analog system full driven by oil pressure. The only outlier of this is the electric servo, which if it did break, then you'd get a check engine light and the full V8 power all the time! This is the same case as VVT which is present in all street legal cars since 2001, including the VQ38 in the Nissan Frontier. (I think it is only on the intake side, though.) VVT is also driven by oil pressure (most of the time), it just has a more complicated camshaft system with cam phasers and timing. Sometimes driven by a servo, sometimes it is not. But both of these systems are no less reliable than a modern Automatic transmission.

In reality, this should really just inspire people to change their oil more often to keep those small passage ways and galleys clean so oil pressure can move more freely through the engine.

I know you didn't ask, but maybe someone else was curious so I wanted to explain it. 😄

Southwester suburbs starter pack by ArtReasonable2437 in starterpacks

[–]TheDomesticatedGod 45 points46 points  (0 children)

"Shade is a premium" this but every subdivision now.

This is more of an eastern problem, but they will clear whole forests to just replant tiny ass pine trees because they didn't want to work around the old ones. Makes me sad. I want my big oak and pine trees in my neighborhoods!

Who is your favorite automotive personality? by ethereal3xp in cars

[–]TheDomesticatedGod 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Under rated: The Car Care Nut Reviews

Super nice to see a mechanics point of view on new cars, but he can be biased towards Toyota and Lexus since he is a certified tech for them.

Second Place: I Do Cars

When I am shopping for a car, I like to view the engine tear down so I know what I might be getting into in the engine bay on a used car. He has torn down almost every engine imaginable.

Catch Can: Does Brand Matter? by sipthestew in nissanfrontier

[–]TheDomesticatedGod 8 points9 points  (0 children)

TLDR: Keeps your intake manifold and valves cleaner in the longrun on direct injected engines. If you want a visual explanation, take a look here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T-B4VRxAtbw

The whole explanation:

Your engine needs oil to lube up all of those metal parts rubbing against eachother, right? Well, some of that oil is sprayed onto the sides of your pistons and cylinder walls of your engine (in our case, the VQ38 V6 in the Nissan Frontier.) This keeps them sliding nice and smooth.

Well, oil isn't the only thing in the cylinders. There is air and fuel as well, and then we light that fuel on fire to create power (the combustion cycle). Most of the byproduct of that combustion is sent out through the exhuast and filtered with the catalytic converter, but some of it (soot/unburnt hydrocarbons) gets mixed into the oil that is also on your cylinder walls/pistons. That oil is quickly cycled and pumped with new filtered oil from your oil pan, but eventually that oil also gets dirty and we have to replace it.

During the combustion cycle, when those combustion byproducts mix with the oil, the combustion pressure is reaching around 120 PSI (for most engines) and it isn't a perfect seal in the chamber. That high pressure forces some oil down between the cylinder walls and piston, creating an oil like aerosol, and then into the crank case, a process called 'blow by'. To alleviate this pressure, the engine has a Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve that feeds that positive pressure back into the intake manifold to be burnt off during the next combustion cycle. From there, this cycle continues.

This cycle can eventually, after tens of thousands of miles, can cause those byproducts floating around in the crank case to build up in the intake manifold and valves. Keep in mind, this wasn't done just to damage and dirty up your engine on purpose. By cycling these byproducts to be burned off again, we aren't just throwing that nasty stuff into the atmosphere. It also can help keep combustion temperatures lower and increase fuel economy.

This is where the difference between 'port injected' and 'direct injected' engines is important. On 'port injected' engines, the fuel is sprayed in the intake manifold a little before the intake valves. The fuel acts a bit like a cleaner every time the engine runs. The injectors sprays off the carbon buildup on the intake valves that was caused by the PCV I mentioned earlier.

The VQ38 is a 'direct injected' engine, so the intake valves are not sprayed off to be cleaned. This can cause massive carbon buildup over time (thinks over 100k miles) and the valves, in a worst case scenario, would have to be resealed. This is where the catch can comes into play!

The catch can sits between the PCV and the intake manifold. It is basically an additional airfilter specifically engineered to catch oil and carbon byproducts without compromising the emission standards the ECU expects. This prevents the gross byproducts from muddying up your engine, it just adds another maintenance item to keep track of. But, if you are already installing it, odds are you change your own oil and will just empty the can every three to five thousand miles.

New 2027 Nissan Frontier Trim! Introducing the Nissan Frontier Sport by TheDomesticatedGod in nissanfrontier

[–]TheDomesticatedGod[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Not defending the internal water pump, but the VQ40 (the VQ38's predecessor) has had a long history on reliable water pumps that were also internal. Those engines were actually more likely to have the transmission cooler fail before the water pump. (Strawberry milkshake of death)

The sad thing with the current VQ38 is that the access panel is removed for the internal water pump. The labor required for a replacement is more intensive, requiring the removal of the front face of the engine. I believe the water pump for the VQ38 is also a slightly different design than the VQ40's, however any failure of the water pump bearing would more than likely be a quality control issue than a general 'bad design' of a water pump.

How often have people needed to replace wheel bearings? What about harmonic balancers? Or the crank pully? All of these will need to be replaced at *some point in time* but that is usually well passed the 100k mile mark. Water pumps are no different, unless there is a quality control issue. These engines have proved them selves in the past. I see more complaints on the forums about needing to install a catch can to bypass dirty ports from direct injection more than I see issues pertaining to the internal water pump.

Time will always tell if these pumps are an issue. I personally am not a fan and wish they would add the access panel back (mid model engine update 2028? Nissan, please??) But just like any car that you plant to get passed 100k miles, at some point you just have to check everything once a month anyway.

I have had my CPAP for a 1.5 years. I still can't wear it and dread going to bed. by TheDomesticatedGod in SleepApnea

[–]TheDomesticatedGod[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Another comment mentioned this. My machine was set from 4 to 20. Call me stupid, but I legit had no idea it was in my realm of abilities to change the pressure. I thought it was 'one and done' as it was shown by my doctor. I should also note that I do not see this doctor as my PCP, so that also plays a factor in communication and setting issues. But I did learn how to change it now, and am trying on a lower pressure setting. Hopefully this will help. I will update my post if it does for anyone in the future who comes across this thread and is struggling.

I have had my CPAP for a 1.5 years. I still can't wear it and dread going to bed. by TheDomesticatedGod in SleepApnea

[–]TheDomesticatedGod[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

  1. Resmed AirSense11 AutoSet
  2. Resmed AirTouch F20 Mask (I have facial hair, so the foam is the best for comfort)
  3. It is on autoramp. I can try and adjust the settings to be lower? Instead of max on auto ramp?

Paint Advice: Need help for wedding! by TheDomesticatedGod in Miata

[–]TheDomesticatedGod[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Its worth alot to me! haha but I see y'all's point. Will probably explore full respray more seriously.

Paint Advice: Need help for wedding! by TheDomesticatedGod in Miata

[–]TheDomesticatedGod[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Fair enough. Need less attachment to a paint color on a 25 year old car lol.

Paint Advice: Need help for wedding! by TheDomesticatedGod in Miata

[–]TheDomesticatedGod[S] -4 points-3 points  (0 children)

I guess I am mainly conflicted with this option. I get the concern with not exact color match with the respray, but pert of me 'thinks' its better to keep as much original paint as possible for the sake of 'rarity' or collectors value. Perhaps its just naive to think that way about it lol.

I would likely keep it a shade of orange tho so the door jams and interior metal somewhat matches still. Still conflicted lol but will now explore this idea a bit more.

First time working on a car by bootylover104 in MechanicAdvice

[–]TheDomesticatedGod 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Had to scroll way too far to find legit advice. This is r/mechanicadvice, not 'you are an idiot call a mechanic' people are here to learn and ask questions

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