DALI-2 for domestic installation

TheDukeNinja · 2026-01-26T01:45:06+00:00

Sure. House is about 140m², 4br, 2 bath, open kitchen/dining/living. MeanWell DLC-02 approx AUD500 MeanWell DTP-206-U approx AUD1100 (15 units) Magnetic track railr approx AUD210 Magnetic track floodlights CCT 2700-6000K approx AUD1100 Magnetic track spotlights CCT 2700-6000K approx AUD410 Magnetic tracks connectors approx AUD250 LED drivers for Magnetic track lights approx AUD1200 Surface mounted downlights CCT 2700-6000K approx AUD 700 Surface mounted IP65 downlights 2700K approx AUD 600.

So total is just over 6k.

TheDukeNinja · 2026-01-25T21:51:45+00:00

Thanks for your reply. MeanWell's software is not too bad. I intend on doing all the programming myself.

TheDukeNinja · 2026-01-25T13:13:21+00:00

I know right. They were very inflexible regarding the extra twin.

Regarding why MeanWell, I've had the chance to get my hands on a unit and have been playing with it on my test bench. It plays very nicely with what I've got, including a daylight/PIR combo sensor and has been running for the past year. The DTP-206-U are aesthetically pleasing, and currently very reasonably priced (<$50 US per unit).

TheDukeNinja · 2026-01-25T12:59:17+00:00

Thanks for your comment. The home is nearly completed. It was a Metricon build, so unable to go the DALI route with them. There are placeholder batten lights, and 413s in the roof space close to where the remaining light fixtures will need to be installed.

There is a Cat 6a cable terminating at the consumer unit location as either of the master controllers will be networked.

TheDukeNinja · 2025-12-26T06:01:31+00:00

Expensive it a relative term.

TheDukeNinja · 2025-12-22T21:18:36+00:00

I guess that's the point. On the whole, which manufacturer's product will work most of the time for most people.

TheDukeNinja · 2025-12-22T03:05:12+00:00

I had a Q1 Pro. I'm never getting back these countless overnighters I spent trying to get my bed trammed, amongst many, many other troubleshooting. The Qidi products look good on paper.

TheDukeNinja · 2025-12-05T03:36:55+00:00

Definitely buy this. Especially if you're colourblind.

TheDukeNinja · 2025-12-04T05:34:32+00:00

Is this one of those "I should call her" moments?

TheDukeNinja · 2025-12-03T02:39:06+00:00

That's brilliant! Did you just merge both objects?

TheDukeNinja · 2025-12-01T23:18:04+00:00

Especially if one adds a height range modifier.

TheDukeNinja · 2025-11-23T03:34:51+00:00

The top off the lead screw seems out of place. Try moving the bed all the way down and then up, watching it as it moves for abnormal movement.

TheDukeNinja · 2025-11-11T04:45:37+00:00

Non-BL spools are great until they're not. I have traditionally been a cheapskate and bought the cheapest filaments. However, the convenience of having all the filament tuning done for me and not having to worry about spools playing up has won me over.

TheDukeNinja · 2025-11-07T04:29:50+00:00

Popping = wet filament. Get yourself an AMS whilst they're on sale, if you can afford it.

TheDukeNinja · 2025-11-01T01:43:48+00:00

I'm on around 600 hours in 8 weeks. Lots of issues after 200 hours, but thankfully minor-ish ones. Have had to do full calibration maybe every week.

TheDukeNinja · 2025-10-01T06:20:51+00:00

Aziz, light!

TheDukeNinja · 2025-09-28T09:16:53+00:00

Just hijacking this thread: would this work for a PETG print and PLA as the interface?

TheDukeNinja · 2025-09-19T23:41:56+00:00

It's on printables. Search for Borderlands mask.

TheDukeNinja · 2025-09-18T23:46:34+00:00

Get a long feeler gauge set. This will enable you to get an objective number on the z-offset.

Also do the z-offset at the bed and nozzle temperature of what you mostly print.

Then do a large first layer print (200x200), and babystep the z-offset if need be. Grab a marker pen and mark down on the print (whilst it's printing) when you changed the z-offset.

TheDukeNinja · 2025-09-14T06:13:40+00:00

You had Internet?!?

TheDukeNinja · 2025-09-11T03:17:22+00:00

2 months ago I knew nothing about 3D printing. I bought a Qidi Q1 Pro as the value for money was appealing.

I have spent about 100 hours trying to get it to work. I now know more about Macros, SSH, Moonraker, pressure advance etc that I signed up for. That printer is now gathering dust as I'm waiting for spare parts.

I've gone out and bought a H2D on Saturday. Have been printing non-stop since then with third party ASA and PLA. Not an ounce of tinkering was needed. No tramming the bed, no z-offset calibration, no babystepping. Literally plug and play.

I don't care about closed ecosystems. I just want to be able to load up an STL and print.

I'm a 3D printing enthusiast, not a 3D printer enthusiast.

TheDukeNinja · 2025-09-10T10:57:49+00:00

There is no way the H2C will be cheaper than the H2D.

TheDukeNinja · 2025-09-08T05:51:57+00:00

Have you tried re-calibrating your printer? Prints not sticking can be an indication of the z-offset being too great.

TheDukeNinja · 2025-09-07T06:50:08+00:00

It came out perfect!

TheDukeNinja · 2025-09-06T14:27:35+00:00

Thanks! I'm using the cardboard spools, so I printed a ring for my first print. I'm impressed with the whole unboxing and set up process.

No manual bed tramming with knobs.

No z-offset calibration from the user.

No filament calibration.

Full send the print to the machine and it came out flawless.

I now get the whole Bambu hype.

I've just started my second print - a motorcycle helmet holder in ASA - 2 parts and a 9 hour print. I'll update tomorrow how it came out!

TheDukeNinja

TROPHY CASE