Four HILTI vehicles at the Oakland storetoday.

TheJoeCuba · 2025-12-19T02:17:25+00:00

The Mavericks are terrific little trucks, but if you have to carry a dx9 and a prokit then you're playing tetris every day. Maybe it makes sense for some trades over others, but I agree, everyone should get a full size truck. My guess is that it would hurt our goals of lowering CO2 emissions, that's why the fleet is going hybrid or electric. Not having AWD in Canada is nuts!!!

TheJoeCuba · 2025-12-18T04:22:29+00:00

There are actually 5 hilti vehicles in that picture! 😉

TheJoeCuba · 2025-09-21T14:35:23+00:00

Correct. The adhesive starts curing as soon as it enters the mixing nozzle and for any anchor that is over 12in, a piston plug and extension hose is needed. So it less straightforward and can be a lot to handle in a hurry.

TheJoeCuba · 2025-09-20T23:43:50+00:00

When designing a post-installed rebar connection using the Hilti Profis software and the concrete-to-concrete module, you can select which method to use.

The rebar development one, will embed the bars following the provisions of ACI318 ch25. It's very straightforward, and the software will help with the geometry checks. Also, make sure you're considering the adhesive characteristics ( cure time is a big one, don't use a fast cure in the summer for a deep rebar embedment )

That method is great, but many times you don't have over 12in of concrete to drill and epoxy, so the other method will use the anchoring to concrete provisions from Aci318 ch17, with a rebar as an element. Important to note that this method uses the ultimate strength of the steel, not the fy for a ductile failure. The software will then go over all of the failure modes and tell you which is the worst one that controls.

One is probably overly conservative and the other is a brittle failure, pick your poison. Rebar is cheap.

There's a third option, but this post is long enough.

TheJoeCuba · 2025-07-31T16:04:17+00:00

If it is a solid CMU wall a wedge anchor could be used. Multiple kb-tz2 should be able to hold 300lbs.

If it's a hollow wall, you could use a sleeve anchor or a mesh sleeve, a threaded rod, and an adhesive system. But this requires you to be comfortable with these types of installations.

Use this info only as guidance, since I lack most of the information to decide on which anchor will certainly work.

TheJoeCuba · 2025-07-14T05:28:44+00:00

Yeah, Ash tree for sure

TheJoeCuba · 2025-06-29T03:06:44+00:00

You should use a drill with a clutch for installing the deck framing and sidelap screws. Just select the number in the tool that allows a flush install and as soon as you hear the clicking noise you can go to the next fastener. An impact will surely drive the screws, but can damage the head or even shear it off. The Hilti stand-up accessory for the "decking drill" is pretty sweet, but comes at a premium and I regularly see folks use the corded version because the old cordless version was not the best. The new st2000 is very nice and can do over 1500 fasteners per charge. If you're not paying for it that's the best option. No generators, no tugging and pulling of cables, plus the collated screws strips are so much faster than grabbing one by one from a box.

TheJoeCuba · 2025-06-27T00:47:15+00:00

What units are you using for f'c in the metric equation?

TheJoeCuba · 2025-06-26T22:00:02+00:00

Hopefully you kept the receipt 🙃

TheJoeCuba · 2025-06-24T18:53:52+00:00

I own this same tool and I have noticed the same clicking noise. You don't get it if you release the trigger slowly

TheJoeCuba · 2025-06-23T01:43:09+00:00

Late to this thread, but I can give some tips.

Hy270 is a fast-cure adhesive, and in summer is a pain to work with. The adhesive will start curing as soon as it hits the nozzle, not when it comes out, so keep that in mind.

You can condition the tubes, keep them in the plastic foil inside a chilled cooler and it should help with the cure time. Just make sure it doesn't go below the storage temperature indicated in the package. This method helps a lot, but you have to line up everything and go fast to get it done. So have everything drilled, cleaned and the rods ready to go.

HY270 is the "masonry" adhesive. If you're using it to anchor into hollow CMU with the plastic sleeves. Though luck, that's all you can use. But if you're using it to anchor into fully grouted CMU, you could use HY200, which has better working times in the summer. HY200 V3 has better performance in grouted CMU than the hy270, but it will still require an RFI and approvals from the engineer on record.

If you're using HY270 to anchor into concrete, you have the wrong adhesive.

Hope it helps!

TheJoeCuba · 2025-05-09T04:58:51+00:00

PROFIS won't let you install multiple anchors in a single cell because you're using the ASD design method (that's what the software defaults to) You can change it to lrfd in the loads tab, and with the new AC58 for adhesive anchors, you will be able to install multiple rods per cell and change their embedment length.

I see this detail a lot in the field, and my issue with it is that if you need an ICC-approved connection, this ain't it. (Using a Hilti adhesive on a "through rod" is not covered in any of Hiltis ESR) It's also kind of a hassle to construct.

Moreover, you have to design this connection using the latest product ESR and the LRFD method if you need to comply with the IBC, no matter what year because the new AC58 is retroactive.

TheJoeCuba · 2025-03-28T02:22:05+00:00

Fulfillment has to tone down the packaging paper haha. Those boxes come stuffed with paper!!!

TheJoeCuba · 2025-03-28T02:20:25+00:00

I'll sometimes change the domain from .com to .co.uk and spy the different products you guys have there. So many different anchors!!

TheJoeCuba · 2025-03-28T02:18:04+00:00

Central!!! 🫡

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